Skin Care Formulation 101: Ingredient Categories

Summary

In this video, Kena breaks down the roles of various ingredients in cosmetic and skincare formulations. She explains active ingredients like alpha and beta hydroxy acids, anti-aging compounds, antioxidants, skin lighteners, humectants, and over-the-counter drug ingredients, detailing their specific benefits. She also covers formulation essentials including surfactants, physical exfoliants, emulsifiers, preservatives, stabilizers, emollients, thickeners, solvents, pH adjusters, and fragrance components. The video provides practical examples for each category, helping viewers understand what each ingredient does and why it is included. Kena’s guide empowers skincare enthusiasts to decode their products and make informed choices for their skin.

Takeaways

• 😀 Active ingredients in skincare are responsible for bioactivity on the skin, such as anti-aging, antioxidant, or exfoliating effects.
• 😀 Alpha and beta hydroxy acids (like glycolic, lactic, citric, and salicylic acids) act as chemical exfoliants, either clearing pores or removing the top skin layer.
• 😀 Anti-aging ingredients, such as retinol, peptides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide, help reduce wrinkles, brighten skin, and stimulate collagen production.
• 😀 Antioxidants like ferulic acid, resveratrol, and vitamins A, C, and E protect skin from free radical damage and prevent premature aging.
• 😀 Skin lightening agents (e.g., alpha-arbutin, kojic acid, niacinamide) help reduce pigmentation and inhibit melanin production.
• 😀 Humectants (like hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, and glycerin) draw moisture from the environment and help prevent water loss from the skin.
• 😀 Surfactants cleanse and emulsify oil and water in products, commonly found in cleansers, soaps, shampoos, and makeup removers.
• 😀 Emulsifiers keep water and oil mixed in creams and lotions, preventing separation, with systems like water-in-oil and oil-in-water.
• 😀 Preservatives (e.g., benzyl alcohol, parabens, phenoxyethanol) prevent microbial growth, while stabilizers (e.g., EDTA, BHT) maintain formulation integrity and prevent rancidity.
• 😀 Emollients, thickeners, and solvents improve texture, smoothness, and absorption in skincare products, often using natural oils, butters, waxes, and chemical agents.
• 😀 pH adjusters (like citric acid and sodium hydroxide) regulate formulation acidity or alkalinity to ensure safety and effectiveness.
• 😀 Fragrance ingredients may include essential oils or proprietary blends, and while they enhance scent, they can also contain solvents, preservatives, and antioxidants.

Q & A

What are active ingredients in skincare formulations?

Active ingredients are components in skincare products that perform a specific bioactive function on the skin, such as anti-aging, antioxidant, exfoliation, or skin brightening effects.

Can you give examples of chemical exfoliants mentioned in the video?

Examples of chemical exfoliants include alpha hydroxy acids (like glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid) and beta hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid. They help remove dead skin cells or clear pores.

Which ingredients are considered anti-aging and what do they do?

Anti-aging ingredients include retinol, peptides, coenzyme Q10, hydrolyzed collagen, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide. They help reduce wrinkles, brighten skin, promote collagen and elastin production, and stimulate cell turnover.

Why are antioxidants important in skincare?

Antioxidants protect the skin by scavenging free radicals, which are highly reactive compounds that can damage skin proteins and DNA, potentially causing cell death or mutagenesis.

What role do humectants play in skincare formulations?

Humectants draw moisture from the environment and bind it to the skin, preventing trans-epidermal water loss. Examples include hyaluronic acid, glycerin, aloe vera, algae extract, and honey.

What are surfactants and where are they commonly used?

Surfactants are surface-active agents that emulsify oil and water, allowing cleansing and foaming. They are commonly found in soaps, cleansers, makeup removers, and shampoos.

How do emulsifiers work and why are they used in creams and lotions?

Emulsifiers allow oil and water to mix and stay stable in formulations. Water-in-oil and oil-in-water systems use emulsifiers to prevent separation and maintain product consistency.

What are preservatives in skincare formulations and why are they necessary?

Preservatives prevent the growth of microbes like bacteria, yeast, and mold in skincare products. Examples include benzyl alcohol, parabens, phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid, and sodium benzoate.

What is the difference between typical alcohols and emulsifying alcohols mentioned in the video?

Emulsifying alcohols like cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are vegetable-based waxes used for stability and texture, unlike ethanol which can be drying and irritating to the skin.

Why are pH-adjusting ingredients important in skincare formulations?

pH-adjusting ingredients ensure that formulations have a skin-friendly pH, which helps active ingredients work effectively and prevents skin irritation. Examples include triethanolamine, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, and magnesium hydroxide.

What are emollients and who benefits most from them?

Emollients soften and smooth the skin. They include natural butters (like shea or cocoa butter), oils, silicones, squalane, and mineral oil. They are particularly beneficial for people with dry skin.

What are some examples of physical exfoliants in skincare products?

Physical exfoliants include walnut shell powder, apricot kernel powder, colloidal oatmeal, jojoba beads, and rice bran beads, which remove dead skin cells through friction.