Combining Active Ingredients: Retinol, Vitamin C, Niacinamide, & More! | Dr. Shereene Idriss

Summary

In this informative video, Dr. Shireen Idriss, a cosmetic dermatologist, provides a comprehensive guide to understanding and effectively incorporating active ingredients into your skincare routine. She explains the difference between active and inactive ingredients, debunks common skincare myths, and offers expert advice on how to combine various actives like vitamin A, B3, C, and acids. Dr. Idriss emphasizes the importance of starting with a basic skincare routine and testing products for skin sensitivity. Her approach promotes a balanced, thoughtful use of actives, ensuring better results without overwhelming the skin.

Takeaways

• 😀 Active skincare ingredients are those that alter the structure and function of your skin, providing therapeutic effects.
• 😀 A product is considered a drug if it claims to treat or prevent a medical condition, requiring a drug fact label by the FDA.
• 😀 Not all inactive ingredients are useless; many support the active ingredients, enhancing their effectiveness.
• 😀 Benzoyl peroxide and retinol should not be used together as they can cancel each other out and be irritating. They should be spaced out in your routine.
• 😀 Vitamin A (retinol/retinoids) helps with cellular turnover and reversing signs of sun damage, contributing to skin radiance.
• 😀 Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a potent antioxidant that helps protect the skin and works well with sunscreens for better protection.
• 😀 Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) helps calm inflammation, restore the skin barrier, and is generally well tolerated by most skin types.
• 😀 Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid exfoliate the skin, support collagen production, and can enhance brightness.
• 😀 When combining Vitamin C and retinol, it’s better to space them out in your routine to avoid irritation, though certain Vitamin C derivatives can work with retinol.
• 😀 If using multiple actives like AHAs and retinol, it’s important to acclimate your skin to the products and adjust concentrations to avoid over-exfoliating.
• 😀 Always patch test new skincare combinations to avoid irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin. Start with lower concentrations and increase gradually.

Q & A

What are active ingredients in skincare?

Active ingredients are components in skincare products that directly impact the skin's structure and function. They can provide therapeutic effects, alter the skin's behavior, or deliver visible results, such as improving skin texture, reducing acne, or boosting collagen production.

What is the difference between an active ingredient and a drug?

The key difference lies in the claims. If a product claims to treat or prevent a medical condition, it is considered a drug, and its active ingredient must be listed as such. If the product only enhances appearance without medical claims, it is considered cosmetic, and no drug fact label is required.

Can you mix active ingredients in your skincare routine?

Yes, you can mix active ingredients, but it’s important to understand how they interact. Some combinations can be beneficial, while others may lead to irritation or inefficiency. Start slowly, get to know your skin, and patch test if you are uncertain.

Why are percentages of active ingredients important?

The percentage of active ingredients in a product determines its effectiveness. High concentrations can be too intense for certain skin types, leading to irritation. It’s important to find the right balance and gradually build tolerance.

What are some examples of common active ingredients in skincare?

Common active ingredients include Vitamin A (retinoids), Vitamin B3 (niacinamide), Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid, and benzoyl peroxide. Each has a specific function, such as promoting cellular turnover or reducing acne.

How do you combine retinol and benzoyl peroxide in your skincare routine?

Retinol and benzoyl peroxide should not be used together in the same application due to their opposing properties (retinol is an antioxidant, benzoyl peroxide is an oxidizing agent). Instead, use them on alternate nights. Retinol can be used at night, and benzoyl peroxide should be used on nights when retinol is not applied.

Can you combine Vitamin A (retinol) with Vitamin C?

Vitamin A and Vitamin C can be combined in your routine, but they should be applied at different times. Vitamin C works best in the morning due to its antioxidant properties, while retinol should be applied at night. However, Vitamin C esters can be used at night with retinol.

What is the role of niacinamide in skincare, and can it be combined with other actives?

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is an anti-inflammatory ingredient that helps to restore the skin barrier and improve skin tone. It is well-tolerated and can be combined with most other active ingredients, though it’s best to use it in a concentration of 3-5%. It also pairs well with Vitamin C, contrary to common myths.

What should you consider when layering skincare actives?

When layering skincare actives, consider the order of application, the pH levels of the ingredients, and your skin’s tolerance. Start with the most lightweight products like serums and finish with thicker creams. It’s essential to allow your skin to acclimate to new ingredients and patch test before mixing.

How do AHAs and BHAs work differently in skincare?

AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) are water-soluble and work primarily on the surface of the skin, helping with exfoliation and brightening. BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), like salicylic acid, are oil-soluble and penetrate deeper into pores, making them effective for acne-prone skin and unclogging pores.