How To Hide TV Power Cord And Cables | Easy Way To Move An Outlet
Summary
TLDRIn this tutorial, Scott from Everyday Home Repairs demonstrates how to neatly hide the power cable of a wall-mounted smart TV by relocating the electrical outlet behind it. He covers the process without requiring drywall repair or painting, using a Zenith trim puller for minimal damage, a stud finder, and easy guards for safe Romex routing. The video guides viewers through removing trim, cutting drywall, installing an old work electrical box, and connecting wires with Wago 221 lever nuts for a clean finish that maintains the room's aesthetics.
Takeaways
- 📺 The video is a tutorial on how to hide the power cable of a wall-mounted smart TV to achieve a cleaner look.
- 🔩 Scott demonstrates how to move an electrical outlet behind the TV without needing to do any drywall repair or painting.
- 🛠️ The process involves removing the TV from its mount, scoring the trim, and using a Zenith trim puller to minimize wall and trim damage.
- 🔍 A stud finder is used to locate the studs, which helps determine the cutting line for the drywall and the path for the Romex cable.
- ⚡️ An oscillating tool with a wood blade is used to cut the drywall to the desired line, ensuring the cut is hidden by the trim.
- 🔩 The old work electrical box is installed in the new location, ensuring it's level and fits the cut-out perfectly.
- 🔌 The Romex cable is run through the wall cavity to the new outlet location, using 'Easy Guards' for protection around the cable.
- 🛑 Safety is emphasized by ensuring the power is off before working with the electrical components.
- 🔧 The new outlet is wired using Wago 221 lever nuts for secure connections, and a utility knife is used for precise cutting.
- 🏠 The drywall and trim are reinstalled, with attention to detail to ensure a seamless finish.
- 👍 The final result is a clean, professional-looking installation that hides the TV's power cable and provides a better aesthetic.
Q & A
What is the main issue Scott wants to address in this video?
-Scott wants to address the issue of a dangling power cable for a smart TV mounted on the wall, and how to hide the power cable by moving an outlet behind the TV without drywall repair or painting.
Why does Scott remove the flat screen TV from the wall at the beginning of the video?
-Scott removes the flat screen TV to ensure it doesn't get damaged during the process of moving the outlet and working on the wall.
What tool does Scott use to remove the trim without causing much damage?
-Scott uses a Zenith trim puller to remove the trim, which helps minimize damage to both the wall and the trim.
How does Scott determine the cut line for the drywall?
-Scott determines the cut line by measuring the height of the trim, which is three and a half inches, and deciding to cut at three and a quarter inches to hide the cut line behind the trim.
What is a 'stud buddy' and how does Scott use it in the video?
-A 'stud buddy' is a magnetic stud finder that finds the fasteners holding the drywall to the studs. Scott uses it to locate the studs and plan where to drill through for the Romex cable.
Why does Scott use an oscillating tool with a standard wood blade to cut the drywall?
-Scott uses an oscillating tool with a standard wood blade because it's sufficient for cutting drywall. He also uses a grout trowel as a guide to ensure a consistent and accurate cut.
What is the purpose of the 'easy guards' that Scott installs in the holes drilled through the studs?
-The 'easy guards' provide 360-degree protection around the Romex cable, preventing it from being punctured by nails or screws when secured behind the drywall.
How does Scott ensure the old work electrical box is installed correctly?
-Scott uses a torpedo level to ensure the box is level, traces the outside, and cuts out the drywall piece. He does a dry fit to confirm the box fits before securing it in place.
What type of Romex cable does Scott use and why?
-Scott uses 12-2 Romex cable, which is suitable for the project because it contains two conductors and a ground, providing the necessary wiring for the new outlet.
How does Scott address the issue of the outlet being sunken in the wall?
-Scott uses spacers on the screws between the junction box and the outlet's yoke to push the outlet out from the wall, ensuring the faceplate sits flush.
What final step does Scott suggest to complete the project?
-Scott suggests applying a small bead of caulk at the top of the trim and possibly at the brad nail holes to cover them up and finish the project neatly.
Outlines
🛠️ Smart TV Power Cable Management
Scott from 'everyday home repairs' demonstrates how to neatly hide the power cable of a wall-mounted smart TV without the need for drywall repair or painting. The process involves removing the TV, detaching the trim, and using a Zenith trim puller to minimize wall and trim damage. The key is to move an outlet behind the TV within the room itself, avoiding the need to access a basement, crawl space, or attic.
🔩 Relocating Electrical Outlet Behind TV
The video continues with Scott explaining the steps to move an electrical outlet behind the TV. This includes identifying and marking the location for the new outlet, cutting the drywall with an oscillating tool, and ensuring the cut is between two studs to facilitate the routing of the Romex cable. The use of 'Easy Guards' is highlighted for protecting the cable as it passes through the studs, and the importance of a proper fit for the old work electrical box is emphasized.
🔌 Completing the Outlet Installation and Testing
In the final part of the project, Scott details the installation of the old work electrical box, running the Romex cable, and connecting it to the circuit. He uses a torpedo level to ensure the box is level before cutting the drywall to fit it. The wiring process is carefully explained, including the use of Wago 221 lever nuts for secure connections. After completing the wiring, Scott suggests using spacers to prevent the outlet from being sunken in the wall and emphasizes testing the outlet for correct wiring and functionality before reattaching the drywall and trim. The video concludes with a reminder to caulk the trim for a finished look and mentions additional tips for cable management.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Smart TV
💡HDMI cables
💡Outlet
💡Drywall repair
💡Zenith trim puller
💡Stud finder
💡Romex
💡Old work electrical box
💡Wago 221 lever nuts
💡Back wiring
💡Caulk
Highlights
Scott demonstrates how to hide a power cable for a smart TV hanging on the wall without drywall repair or painting.
He removes the TV and scores the top of the trim to prepare for moving the outlet behind the TV.
A Zenith trim puller is used to minimize wall and trim damage when removing it.
Side cutters are used to trim 18-gauge brad nails for reattaching the trim later.
A stud finder is used to locate fasteners for proper placement of the new electrical box.
An oscillating tool with a standard wood blade is recommended for cutting the drywall.
A grout trowel is used as a guide for making a consistent cut in the drywall.
Drilling through studs is necessary to route the Romex cable for the new outlet.
Easy guards are used for 360-degree protection of the Romex cable running through the studs.
Installing an old work electrical box in the new location is crucial for the outlet relocation.
A torpedo level ensures the box is level before cutting the drywall for the new outlet.
12-2 Romex cable is used to wire the new outlet, with careful measurement for proper length.
Wago 221 lever nuts are used for secure and visible electrical connections.
Spacers are utilized to correct any sunken appearance of the outlet in the wall.
Outlet testers confirm correct wiring and power to the newly installed outlet.
The final step includes reattaching the drywall and base trim for a finished look.
Caulking can be used to finish the trim and hide any nail holes for a clean appearance.
Scott suggests using cable access wall plates for additional HDMI cable management.
He recommends Ryan's 'funny Carpenter' YouTube channel for advanced trim work and caulking tips.
Transcripts
how's it going you guys it's Scott with
everyday home repairs and today I want
to show you how to correct an annoying
issue like this you have your smart TV
hanging on the wall it looks great you
don't really need to run any HDMI cables
to it because you can get all your
different streaming services now but you
still have the power cable that's kind
of dangling down or running across your
floor so how do we correct that I'm
going to quickly show you how you can do
this move an outlet behind the TV
without having to do any drywall repair
or painting so that's the key and we're
not going to be going down in a basement
or crawl space or jumping up in the
attic so we're going to do this all from
within the room so you get the power
cable tucked out of the way and get that
nice fit and finish look that you're
going for so let's jump into it first up
I'm just going to unscrew a few of these
mounting screws so I can remove the flat
screen get it out of our way so we can
start the work and make sure we don't
damage it then we'll go down and score
the top of the trim making sure we break
free any of the Caulk of that top
surface before using what's called a
Zenith trim puller which is awesome for
removing trim and minimizing the amount
of damage so you just work that trim
puller in and you can move it actually
side to side to start pulling that away
from the wall surface and again
minimizing the damage to the wall and
also to the trim because we want to make
this just an electrical project
then we can work that trim piece in one
whole piece away from the wall without
breaking in half once it's off then I'll
use some side Cutters to go ahead and
cut flush the 18 gauge brad nails so the
trim piece will be ready to go back in
at the end of our project
now the trick is we
just low the edge of the trim now this
trim
measures at about three and a half
inches above the subfloor so my cut line
is going to be right around about three
and a quarter inches so the cut line
will be hidden once everything goes back
in by the trim that we'll put back into
place and then it's good to know where
your studs are located one to know what
you're going to have to go through with
the Romex and two to know how far to cut
that drywall piece off so you can
re-secure it back on the wall after
you're done now I just use a stud buddy
which is a magnetic stud finder it
actually does not find the studs it
finds the Fasteners that are holding the
drywall to the stones okay so I found
one right here makes sense it's located
right on the left hand side of this
electrical box and then if your home is
newer most likely you have spacing that
is 16 inches on Center so 16 inches from
that stud you should find another stud
which we do so between those two studs
you're going to find 16 inches and
that's going to give you okay how many
studs am I going through specifically
for this project I will need to drill
through two studs then I'm going to be
in the middle of the wall cavity which
is going to give me the route right up
to my old work box that we're going to
install which is in the center of that
mounting bracket now to cut the drywall
we're just going to use an oscillating
tool with a standard wood blade you
don't really need a fancy drywall blade
but if you have one you can go ahead and
use it and then specifically I like to
have some type of guide so here I'm just
using a cheap grout trowel which is
three and a quarter inches which is
right at that cut line that I want which
will be below the three and a half
inches which is the height of the trim
so that'll help me guide through and
make a consistent cut and I want to end
my cuts right in the middle of a stud so
it's easy to re-secure that at the end
of the project now just go back through
and do a second pass making sure no
drywall is still attached attached and
then once we have that we'll cut that
corner out remove any of the screws or
nails that are holding in that piece and
then once those are removed I'll just
use a painters tool or some flat bar and
pry that out trying to get it out all in
one piece without damage
now this is up to you I do like to clean
up a little bit here just clean up some
of the drywall making sure everything
goes back in easily at the end of the
project
so I'm going to go ahead and drill
through these two studs those are the
two studs I need to take Romex from my
outlet here down over to the wall cavity
that we need now I'm going to be using
an inch and 1 8 spade bit which might
seem a little large but I'll show you
here in one second why I am doing that
foreign
now the why behind using such a large
spade bit a one and one eighth that's
well over a half inch or a three
quarters inch that you'd usually use and
that's because specifically I use these
things called easy guards to insert in
the hole what these are it's kind of a
better nail plate so a nail plate
usually you'd see on studs protecting
Romex behind it so you can't nail or
screw past that nail plate into the stud
and then Pierce a piece of bromax well
an easy guard is basically that but 360
degrees of protection so all I need to
do is insert these into the one and one
eighth of an inch hole and then tap
those in with a hammer and now I have a
complete protection all the way around
that piece of Romex that will be running
through for both of the holes we drilled
in the studs now if you need a reference
four easy guards or logo lever nuts or
that Zenith trim puller or the stud
buddy you can look right below the video
in the description you'll see a link to
our Amazon store the Amazon store is
organized in different lists such as
electrical or general tools or general
supplies and that's where you'll find
all these different tools and supplies
we use specifically the easy guards in
the electrical discs you'll scroll down
and you'll see there is a pack of easy
cards if you want to try them out on
your own projects now let's jump into
the last part of the project before we
actually run wire and that's installing
the old work electrical box in the new
location for our Outlet we'll start off
with the old work box and the torpedo
level making sure the box is level and
then trace the outside once you have
your lines traced out take the same
oscillating tool or a jab saw would work
as well and cut out the small piece of
drywall when you're finished you'll want
to do a dry fit just to make sure that
old work box fits and then pull that
back out because we want to run our 12-2
Romex down the wall and once you know
you have the right length you can cut it
and pull it through the old work box
then we'll go ahead and tighten
everything up making sure the tabs are
pulling to the back of the drywall and
the box is secure then we'll take a
utility knife cut off the sheathing
exposing our two conductors and the bare
ground
cut that extra off and now you want to
make sure you have six inches from the
end of the sheathing or three inches
also from the end of the box and then
we'll strip off the black hot and white
neutral
making a J hook in the ground starting
off the ground I'll tighten things up
with the ECX Milwaukee Screwdriver and
then go straight in the back because
this is a commercial grade or what's
called a spec grade Outlet so it has a
feature called back wiring so I don't
have to make a J hook on the hot or
neutral
once everything is secured for our three
wires
then we'll break off those tabs because
remember with an old work box you break
those tabs off and then that will help
everything pull flush to the wall
surface so your face plate sits flush
then go ahead and tighten up the face
plate and now we have our new outlet
location everything looks great but now
we got to get power to this location
so now to get power I have this extra
row Max I'm going to pull it through
those easy guards
getting past these two studs
and then I'll pull all the slack out to
this side
because we're going to Route the Romex
up into this outlet box and I do notice
that the outlet is sunken in a little
bit so it's pulling this face plate in
I'll show you at the end how to correct
that easily it's not a big issue but now
we can open things up and then get this
tied into the circuit so you'll remove
the face plate and you want to make sure
your power is off so confirm that with
an outlet tester on both of your Outlets
no LEDs so we're good to go
then we'll start to remove the two
mounting screws and pull the outlet out
of the box now each of us are going to
have a little different scenario here
some of us are going to only have one
Romex coming in and then other is going
to have sets like this where you have
two sets of Romex coming in now I just
want to clean things up because I have
another set coming in so I have three
neutrals three Hots and three grounds
coming into this box
so I'll clean up the old wires now
remember you want six inches coming from
the end of the Romex sheathing cut in
the back of the box and at least three
inches from the edge the surface the
wall surface of the box so I've pulled
that Romex up from the bottom through
and I'll cut out the sheathing and cut
everything to length making sure
nothing's too short
then I'll strip everything off and I'm
stripping off according to to what I
need for what are called Wago 221 lever
nuts
so what I'm going to do with so many
sets coming in I'm actually going to
pull together three pigtails to do that
I'm using the Wago 221
-415 that's five wire
lever nuts now there is no four wire so
I'm only using four of those slots
that's perfectly fine
and then I'll use a section of wire here
and that is the pigtail so this one
being the bare ground already has my J
hook on it
then I'll do the same thing for neutrals
pulling all the neutrals together
but then this time I will not need a J
hook because that's going to go into
that commercial grade outlet and that
has bite back wiring so just goes
straight in
and then we'll finish things off with
our hot side our black wires pulling all
those in the nice thing about the wagos
it has that translucent housing so you
can actually see that the copper is
making contact to the bus bars in the
actual connector we'll tuck everything
in I'm favoring the neutrals and grounds
on one side and then the hots on the
other side on the right side
then we'll put that J hook in the
clockwise Direction around the ground
screw connecting up our neutral and our
hot
now remember this was sunken in so I'm
going to use these spacers just one so
that's going to space me out between
about a sixteenth and an eighth of an
inch so that the face plate is not
sunken in and the outlet is not sunken
in so you just put those on the screws
between the the junction box and what's
called the Yoke of the outlet and then
that will space that out from the wall
surface
okay so now my power is back on and we
should have the wiring all completed
before I button back up the drywall and
the trim on the bottom we're going to
want to go ahead and confirm that this
is working so plug that outlet tester in
and I have the two amber lights which
equal that we have a correctly wired and
powered circuit so wiring is good to go
now let's button up our drywall and our
base trim now here is we're taking your
time at the Start pays off so if you
have one piece of drywall it should fit
right back into place you should be able
to use those drywall screws that you
removed securing either to the bottom
plate or to the studs that I have marked
with the blue painters tape
and then once that is secured you'll
bring that piece of trim in again if
it's one piece it's not damaged you'll
be able to set it right into place you
already took off the old brand Nails
then you'll put in new brad nails two at
each stud location to hold that against
the wall
take off the blue painters tape and then
here is the finished product
overall it looks fantastic and you
really can't even tell that we just ran
some wire behind it
now hopefully that helped you guys out
jump down in the comments let me know
what you think and also let me know if
you have any questions this is a much
better look fit and finish and it looks
great
now if you do have a little bit more
equipment you have something you do need
to plug in some HDMI cables you can't
get these cable access wall plates you
could install one right beside the
outlet they actually do not have
junction boxes so you cut a hole in the
drywall but you're just going to pass
those cables in the drywall and you do
not need to enclose that with a junction
box so you could put one up behind the
TV and then one lower maybe you have a
small piece of furniture with a little
bit more equipment and you need to pass
some wires so just know that is
available out there and you could do it
at the same time as you're passing the
Romex to get power now one last item you
might need to do is lay a small bead of
Caulk at the top of that trim that we
removed and also maybe some at the Brad
nail holes to cover those up now I'm
kind of an amateur when it comes to this
and the guy I go to is Ryan over at the
funny Carpenter YouTube channel Ryan has
a ton of videos that can really help you
up your game and trim work and
especially tips and tricks to caulking
to make it so it's not such a burden and
you get the results you looking for so
thanks for joining me on this video and
we'll catch you on the next one take
care
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