How To Add An Outlet To A Finished Wall

Summary

This DIY tutorial guides viewers through installing a new power outlet in a home, particularly in scenarios without attic, basement, or crawl space access. The host shares tips for minimally invasive wall cutting, using a utility knife and oscillating tool to hide cut lines behind trim. They demonstrate how to safely run Romex through studs, avoiding nail damage, and use Wago 221 lever nuts for secure wiring. The video concludes with reassembly, ensuring a neat finish by aligning the new outlet with existing ones and offering a professional touch-up suggestion for perfect caulking.

Takeaways

• 🛠️ The video provides a DIY guide for adding an electrical outlet in a location without attic, basement, or crawl space access.
• 🏠 This project is aimed at preparing an Airbnb property by creating a charging station in a corner with an outlet.
• 🔌 The process involves removing trim and drywall to access the wall behind, ensuring minimal damage to the wall and trim for easy reinstallation.
• 🔍 A utility knife, zenith trim puller, and end snips are recommended tools for removing trim and nails without damaging the wall.
• 📏 The script emphasizes the importance of measuring accurately to ensure the new outlet is level with existing ones for a consistent look.
• 🔩 The video explains how to locate studs and plan the route for the new electrical wire, ensuring it passes through or between them.
• 🛑 Safety is highlighted by confirming no power is present before starting work and using appropriate connectors to avoid shortcuts that could compromise safety.
• 🔧 An oscillating tool is the preferred method for cutting drywall, and a block is used to ensure clean, straight cuts at the desired height.
• 🔌 The script details the process of running new Romex cable through studs, using a spade bit to drill holes, and ensuring the cable is properly connected and secured.
• 🔩 Wago 221 lever nuts are recommended for secure wire connections, and the video provides a step-by-step guide on how to wire the new outlet correctly.
• 🎨 The final steps include turning the power back on to test the new outlet, reinstalling the trim, and using painter's tape to mark studs for future reference.
• 🏡 The video concludes with advice on finishing touches like caulking and painting, suggesting viewers refer to a professional for these tasks if not confident.

Q & A

What is the main issue the video script addresses?

The video script addresses the issue of adding an additional electrical outlet in a location without access to an attic, basement, or crawl space, which is a common scenario in home improvement projects.

What is the purpose of the new outlet in the script?

The new outlet is intended to serve as a charging station in a corner of a room in an Airbnb property that the presenter plans to list.

Why is it important to hide the cut lines when cutting drywall?

Hiding the cut lines is important to maintain a clean and professional appearance, especially when the trim is reinstalled, as it prevents the electrical work from becoming visible.

What tool does the script recommend for removing trim without damaging the wall?

The script recommends using a zenith trim puller, which is said to be an effective tool for removing trim without damaging the wall.

How does the script suggest finding the studs for the electrical work?

The script suggests using a magnet stud finder to locate the fasteners on the studs, which is a common method for identifying the studs' positions.

What is the significance of the 16-inch stud spacing mentioned in the script?

The 16-inch stud spacing is significant because it is a standard measurement in construction, allowing the presenter to predict and locate the studs for planning the new electrical route.

Why is it not recommended to run non-metallic wires through a hole in the metal box without a connector?

Running non-metallic wires through a hole in the metal box without a connector is not recommended because it can compromise the safety and integrity of the electrical connection, potentially leading to issues.

What is the purpose of the Wago 221 lever nuts used in the script?

The Wago 221 lever nuts are used for secure wire connections in the electrical work, providing a reliable and easy-to-use method for connecting wires.

How does the script ensure the new outlet is level with other outlets in the home?

The script ensures the new outlet is level by marking the new location at 11 and a half inches off the floor, matching the height of other outlets for consistency.

What is the final step in the script for finishing the electrical project?

The final step in the script is to turn the power back on, confirm that the new outlet has power, and then finish the project with some caulking at the seam and covering the brad nail holes.

Why does the presenter suggest referring to 'The Funny Carpenter' for caulking tips?

The presenter suggests referring to 'The Funny Carpenter' for caulking tips because they acknowledge their own amateur status in caulking and believe that the professional can provide better advice and techniques.

Outlines

00:00

🛠️ DIY Electrical Outlet Installation

The video script details a DIY project for installing an additional electrical outlet in an Airbnb property. The host outlines the process for those without access to an attic, basement, or crawl space, emphasizing it's still feasible for those comfortable with home electrical work. The steps include using a utility knife to score the caulk line, removing trim with a zenith trim puller, and cutting drywall below the trim line to hide any cut marks. The script also covers identifying studs, planning the route for the new Romex cable, and ensuring the new outlet is level and matches existing ones. The importance of using connectors when running non-metallic cables through studs is highlighted to prevent shortcuts that could compromise safety.

05:01

🔩 Safely Running Romex Through Studs

This paragraph focuses on the safe and correct method of running a Romex cable through studs when installing a new electrical outlet. It discusses the use of a one-inch spade bit to drill holes above the trim line to avoid nail penetration of the cable. The script emphasizes the importance of not taking shortcuts, such as running non-metallic cables without connectors through studs. It details the process of pre-installing connectors on the Romex, feeding the wire into the box, and using Wago 221 lever nuts for secure wiring connections. The video also recommends building a pack-out set with standard components to streamline the process and mentions the use of painter's tape to mark studs for reference.

10:01

🏠 Finishing Touches for Outlet Installation

The final paragraph of the script covers the finishing steps of the electrical outlet installation. It describes how to secure the removed drywall piece with a single screw at each stud and press it against the wall with a cat's paw tool. The trim piece is then reattached using brad nails, ensuring no damage occurred during removal. The script concludes with the suggestion to caulk the seam and cover brad nail holes, recommending viewers watch professional Ryan from 'The Funny Carpenter' for expert tips on caulking trim. The video ends with a reminder to test the new outlet for power and a note on maintaining consistency with cover plate screw orientation.

Keywords

💡Outlets

Outlets are electrical points in a wall where power can be drawn from for various devices. In the video, the creator discusses the need for additional outlets to accommodate guests in an Airbnb listing, highlighting the importance of outlets for charging and powering devices. The script mentions an existing outlet and the process of installing a new one.

💡DIY Project

A DIY (Do It Yourself) project refers to a task or activity that an individual undertakes without professional help. The video is centered around a DIY electrical project, showing how to install a new outlet without attic, basement, or crawl space access. The script emphasizes the doability of such a project for those comfortable with home electrical work.

💡Caulk Line

The caulk line is the seam where the wall meets the trim. In the script, the creator uses a utility knife to score this line, which is a preparatory step before removing the trim for the electrical work. This is crucial for minimizing damage to the wall during the project.

💡Trim Puller

A trim puller is a tool used to remove trim from a wall without damaging it. The script mentions a 'zenith trim puller' as a recommended tool for this purpose, indicating its effectiveness in preserving the wall's integrity during the removal process.

💡Toenail Fastener

A toenail fastener is a type of nail that is used to secure trim to a wall. In the script, the creator mentions using leverage to remove a toenail fastener from the trim, illustrating a careful approach to avoid damaging the trim during the removal process.

💡Old Work Box

An old work box is a type of electrical box used for retrofitting new outlets into existing walls. The video describes installing an old work box in a location between two studs, which is part of the process of creating a new charging station in the Airbnb.

💡Romex

Romex is a type of non-metallic sheathed cable used for electrical wiring in residential buildings. The script details the process of running Romex through studs and using connectors to ensure safe and proper electrical wiring.

💡Oscillating Tool

An oscillating tool is a power tool that can be used for cutting, sanding, scraping, and other tasks. In the video, the creator uses an oscillating tool to cut open the drywall to create a path for the new electrical wiring.

💡Wago 221 Lever Nuts

Wago 221 Lever Nuts are a type of wire connector that provides a secure and fast way to connect electrical wires. The script mentions using these connectors for the new outlet installation, emphasizing their reliability and ease of use.

💡Pigtail

A pigtail is a short length of wire used to connect an electrical device to a circuit. In the script, the creator uses a pigtail to connect the new Romex to the existing outlet, demonstrating a common practice in electrical work.

💡Back Wiring

Back wiring is a method of connecting wires where the wire is inserted from the back of the terminal and secured. The script describes using back wiring for the new outlet installation, which provides a secure connection and is a recommended practice.

💡Caulking

Caulking is the process of applying a sealant to fill gaps or seams to create a smooth, finished appearance and prevent drafts or moisture infiltration. The video concludes with a mention of caulking the trim seam and covering nail holes, which is part of the final touch to complete the project.

Highlights

Creating a DIY charging station in an Airbnb corner without attic, basement, or crawl space access.

Using a utility knife to score the caulk line for trim removal without wall damage.

Introducing the zenith trim puller for efficient and damage-free trim removal.

Strategically cutting drywall below the trim line to hide any cut lines upon reinstallation.

Using a magnet stud finder to locate fasteners on studs for accurate electrical work.

Calculating stud spacing to plan the route for the new electrical wiring.

Choosing an oscillating tool for precise drywall cutting.

Removing fasteners carefully to avoid floor damage during the drywall removal process.

Marking the new electrical box location to match existing outlet heights for consistency.

Drilling holes in studs above the trim line to prevent nail penetration of the Romex cable.

Running new wires through studs with proper connectors for safety.

Using Wago 221 lever nuts for secure and efficient wire connections.

Assembling a pack out set with standard components to streamline DIY electrical projects.

Wiring the new outlet with a pigtail setup for a clean and professional finish.

Mounting the outlet and ensuring it is straight and secure before adding the cover plate.

Reinstalling the drywall piece and using drywall screws for a tight fit.

Securing the trim back in place with brad nails for a finished look.

Caulking the trim seam and covering brad nail holes for a professional touch.

Recommending The Funny Carpenter channel for advanced caulking and trim techniques.

Transcripts

you can never have too many outlets and

that is the scenario i'm facing today i

have an outlet about four feet away from

my corner and i want to place a table

back in that corner because this is an

airbnb that i'll be listing soon and i

want to have a little charging station

back there so i'm going to run you

through the full process but

specifically for this one what if you do

not have attic access or access to a

basement or crawl space like this where

you could run romex down over to your

new location and then up to your old

work box don't worry it is still a

completely doable diy project for those

of us that are comfortable doing

electrical work on our own homes and

then how do we keep this an electrical

project and not a drywall or painting

project there is a little trick to that

so stay tuned and i'll show you how to

minimize the number of tools and

supplies you'll need first up grab a

utility knife and score the caulk line

between the trim and the wall surface

then a recommendation by you guys i got

a zenith trim puller and i want to test

it out because this is supposed to be

the best way to pull trim without

damaging your wall i do have to admit it

is pretty awesome and will be in my

regular rotation

then you can just carefully pull the

trim off the wall

and watch there's probably a toenail

fastener right at the end so you can use

a little leverage and pluck it off

without damaging the trim and then

instead of knocking the nails out i just

use end snips and i'll snip those nails

off

keeping that outside surface from damage

so as you can see the trim still looks

great and will be very easy to reinstall

so first i'll remove the face plate of

the outlet that will pull power from

and the quote unquote trick that we're

going to do is any drywall that we open

up is going to be below the trim that we

just removed so when we reinstall it

hides any of our cut lines my trim is

three and a half inches off the floor so

my cut line cutting open the drywall is

going to be at three and a quarter to

make sure it's hidden by the trim once

it goes back on the wall and then

usually when you take your face plate

off you can look in there and see where

your studs are at or i just use a magnet

stud finder that's the most common stud

finder that i use

and it doesn't find the studs it finds

the fasteners on the studs so just

attach to a screw that's holding the

drywall on the wall so that means that i

have a stud on this side that i'm going

to have to go through i'm going to need

to get my romex through that stud

and then i can go offset

find the next fastener

and then confirm

that i have 16 inches between studs

that's the most common stud spacing and

that's 16 inches on center that means

from the center point of each stud

they're spaced 16 inches so knowing that

they're 16 inch space i can take the

distance between my current

outlet location and where i want to go

i see that is a little over 48 inches so

i know i'll have the first stud at the

outlet second set here third stud at 32

inches from the outlet and then four

stud at 48 and then i will be installing

an old work box in the middle of two

studs all right so now let's cut open

some drywall

the tool of choice is going to be the

oscillating tool which works great for

these type of cuts

and then i made a small one by block

which is three and a quarter inches tall

which is right on my cut line

then i just work my oscillating tool

across the cut line

and once i get to the end i can use that

block to make a nice 90 degree cut

i'll do one more pass here just making

sure it's completely cut through all

along the way and then clean up with the

shop vac

then what you'll want to do is remove

any fasteners nails like i have or maybe

screws i'm just using a 12 inch cat's

paw

to carefully remove those fasteners and

make sure i don't damage the floor

here's an example just prying the nail

out slightly

and then starting to work it away from

the wall

so it frees up that drywall

i always tried to remove this as one

piece if i broken two that's not the end

of the world

in this case it's working free and i'm

able to actually remove it all as one

piece and then do a final cleanup

so let's get our new location we'll mark

it 11 half inches off the floor and make

sure the box is level eleven half inches

will match the other outlets in the home

so it'll look consistent

i'll outline that old work box and then

cut it out with that same oscillating

tool taking my time not to over cut

[Music]

once you get that cut out

[Music]

now we'll go back to the existing outlet

that we want to pull power from so i'll

confirm no power and then i'll remove

the outlet

and then the way we'll get into this

metal electrical box

is from the bottom so go ahead and

remove the knockout from the bottom of

the box

now for drilling through the studs i'm

just going to use a diablo extension

with a one inch spade bit what i'm

trying to do is actually get up under in

the middle of the stud but actually

place the one inch hole above where the

trim is going to go why do i do that

because i'll be fastening the trim with

brad nails in each of the studs so i

want to ensure that those brad nails

have no chance of piercing the romex

which will help us avoid any issues

so running the new wires really straight

forward i'm just going to go from my new

hole

and then i'll go down

and then start feeding through these

studs

now this is where some people take a

shortcut and you should not

we have our non-metallic that's going to

go up through the bottom of our metal

box you should not just run your

non-metallic through that hole without

some type of connector

well sometimes it's hard to get a

connector in there because you have

limited access so what i do

i give myself plenty of extra

and then i go ahead and pre-install the

connector taking the nut off of it but

screwing down the connector on the

non-metallic romax so now we have our

connector on

and we can feed our wire up

up into our box

then you can pull your wire through and

you'll see

you get to your connector

then bring the nut over the romex

so now we got that connector in place

plenty of romex and it's protected

coming up through that metal box so

wiring is really straightforward on this

one on that existing outlet i went with

a pigtail setup where i ran pigtails to

the old outlet and then back to my wago

221 lever nuts which you know are my

go-to for wire connectors i have this

milwaukee pack out set up which has all

my standard components that i use on a

very regular basis and this continually

saves me trips to the hardware store now

i'm not necessarily expecting diy-ers to

build a setup like this but you might

want to over time and if you need a

reference as you're building out your

own kit check down in the description

you'll see my amazon store this has all

my recommendations on there including in

the electrical section you will see a

few different starter kits for wago

lever nuts those are by far the most

common things that people buy from our

amazon store and i literally have never

heard a complaint of somebody trying

wago 221 lever nuts and not liking them

so we'll roll through the wiring here

that is my new romex coming in i'll

strip off the 12 gauge and also trim up

the old wires coming in because all i'll

be doing is going straight into these

wago 221 three pin lever nuts and then

pulling out a pigtail and that pigtail

will go directly into our old outlet

so i'm hot neutral and ground ground

will go into the three pin

and then i will actually j hook that

ground

because that will not go straight in

that will go clockwise around the green

screw terminal

so we'll tighten that up and this one is

a commercial grade so the it'll go

straight in the back but that is not

speed wiring or what's called

backstabbing that is actually back

wiring which pulls a plate and pinches

that wire so it's a very secure hole so

we'll mount the outlet and finish off

with our cover plate then we'll take our

old work back a box at the new location

and make sure those tabs actually

tighten on the back of the drywall

sometimes you tighten those up and they

actually don't squeeze on the back of

the drywall

strip off our new 12 gauge put a j hook

in the ground

clockwise around the screw terminal and

then same thing this is a commercial

grade so we use back wire and go

straight in

then we'll just mount everything up

make sure it's straight and not crooked

tighten it up and then we'll finish off

with our cover plate and be consistent

have your cover plate screws either

horizontal or vertical

so i'm gonna button everything up but

first

i got the power back on confirming we

got power to our old outlet

and let's see how we're doing on our new

one

yes so we're good so i put some

painter's tape on the wall just to mark

all the studs for my reference then i'm

just going to use a single drywall screw

at each of these studs to hold that

piece of drywall that we had removed and

that cat's paw just to press it up

against the other drywall

once that's in there i'll put the trim

piece back in remember the trim piece

didn't have any damage so i'll just use

two brad nails

each stud location to secure it

and then this is what the finished

product looks like

pretty solid if you ask me

so the last step would just be a little

bit of caulking at the seam and then

just covering each of those brad nail

holes but to be honest i'm pretty much

an amateur when it comes to caulking

trim i can do it but i'm not awesome so

i will hand you off to the professional

ryan who has a channel called the funny

carpenter he is the master at this and

he has a ton of awesome tips and tricks

on how to make caulking trim much easier

and much less mess so thanks for

stopping by and we'll catch you on that

next video take care