One V17 Climber's Advice That Changed My Climbing

Summary

In this inspiring climbing narrative, the speaker shares their journey of overcoming challenges on a climb called 'Origel', an extension of 'Poison Control'. They discuss the importance of learning from fellow climbers, particularly advice from Will Boie, which emphasizes planning and speed to improve climbing efficiency. The script details the technical aspects of the climb, the mental hurdles faced, and the ultimate triumph of successfully completing the route, highlighting the value of persistence and strategic movement.

Takeaways

• 🧗 Climbing with others is a valuable learning experience, as it allows for the exchange of advice and techniques.
• 🔑 A key piece of advice from Will was to plan movements and move fast, which significantly improved the climber's performance.
• 📖 The story behind the climb 'Origel' is important as it provides context and meaning to the climber's journey.
• 🤸‍♀️ The climb 'Poison Control' serves as a challenging starting point for 'Origel', requiring powerful crimps and a specific tow hook technique.
• 🤔 The climber experimented with different holds and techniques, such as the micro beta of using the middle finger for a specific crimp.
• 🔄 The crux of 'Origel' involves maintaining a heel hook while transitioning to a more difficult section, which can be prone to slipping.
• 🕒 Time trials were used to track improvement, showing a decrease from 52 seconds to 34 seconds in the climber's speed.
• 💪 Mental preparation and overcoming nervousness play a crucial role in the climber's ability to execute the climb.
• 🔄 The climber emphasized the importance of recovery and taking long breaks to manage fatigue and maintain focus.
• 🏆 Success in climbing 'Origel' was achieved by combining efficient movement, mental strength, and the application of learned techniques.

Q & A

What is the main activity described in the transcript?

The main activity described in the transcript is bouldering, a form of rock climbing without the use of ropes.

What is the name of the climb the speaker is attempting?

The climb the speaker is attempting is called 'origel', which is an extension of 'poison control'.

What is the significance of the heel hook in the climb 'poison control'?

The heel hook is a crucial move that helps the speaker unlock the beta for the crux of 'poison control', allowing them to progress in the climb.

What advice did Will Boie give to the speaker that helped with the climb?

Will Boie advised the speaker to plan out their moves and move fast, which improved their climbing efficiency and performance.

What is the crux of the climb 'origel'?

The crux of 'origel' is maintaining the right crimp while keeping the left heel hook, which can easily pop off due to the boulder's angle.

What is the role of the toe hook in the speaker's climbing strategy?

The toe hook helps the speaker to bring their body closer to the boulder and maintain balance during the climb.

What was the initial time it took for the speaker to reach the first crimp in 'origel'?

Initially, it took the speaker 52 seconds to reach the first crimp in 'origel'.

How did the speaker's climbing approach change after implementing Will Boie's advice?

After implementing Will Boie's advice, the speaker focused on moving faster and more efficiently, which significantly improved their climbing time to 34 seconds for the same section.

What mental challenge does the speaker face during the climb?

The speaker faces the mental challenge of not getting too nervous, as nervousness leads to sweating, which makes the holds slippery and the climb more difficult.

How does the speaker feel about their progress towards sending the climb?

The speaker feels excited and confident about their progress, believing that they are getting closer to sending the climb after making adjustments to their climbing strategy.

What is the final outcome of the speaker's attempt to climb 'origel'?

The final outcome is that the speaker successfully completes the climb 'origel', attributing their success to moving fast and efficiently.