The Only Training Video Climbers Need for Exercises Selection!

Summary

This video explains how to create effective and specific training exercises for rock climbers, emphasizing that the key to specificity lies in the adaptations gained, rather than mimicking climbing movements. The video outlines a four-step process to select exercises targeting specific muscle groups and joints involved in climbing, using examples like the undercling lockoff and heel hook. The importance of progressive overload, simplicity, and convenience in exercise selection is highlighted, as well as considerations for muscle length and velocity. The video also touches on how non-specific training can still yield significant benefits, particularly for beginners and general health.

Takeaways

• 😀 Exercises don't need to mimic climbing movements directly, but the adaptations gained from them must be specific to the sport.
• 😀 Strengthening muscles specific to climbing (e.g., chest, biceps, shoulders, lats, hamstrings, and glutes) can help improve your performance on the wall.
• 😀 The first step in selecting exercises is identifying a movement in your climbing that you want to improve, such as an undercling or heel hook.
• 😀 The second step is to identify which joints (e.g., elbows, shoulders, knees, hips) are actively engaged in those movements.
• 😀 Step three involves identifying the muscles involved around those joints. For example, the biceps and lats are crucial for an undercling move, while hamstrings and glutes are key for a heel hook.
• 😀 Focus on exercises that target the identified muscles (e.g., bicep curls, low rows, hamstring curls, stiff-legged deadlifts).
• 😀 When selecting exercises, consider progressive overload, simplicity, stability, and the equipment available to you.
• 😀 Consider muscle length when selecting exercises; training at full range of motion is effective for overall strength development.
• 😀 Exercise intensity and velocity matter—lighter weights and higher velocity help with power and tendon adaptation, while heavier weights with slower velocity focus on strength gains.
• 😀 While specific strength training is valuable, beginners or those new to strength training can benefit from general exercises, as they may still experience improvements in climbing performance.

Q & A

What is the key principle behind specificity in training for rock climbing?

The key principle is that an exercise itself doesn’t need to mimic the exact movement of rock climbing. Instead, the specific adaptations gained from the exercise, such as strength or muscle recruitment, are what truly benefit the sport.

Why might a bench press be considered specific for climbing, despite not mimicking climbing movements?

A bench press works the chest, shoulders, and triceps, which are muscles used in climbing, especially for strength and recruitment. The adaptation it provides can still be beneficial for climbing, even though the motion doesn’t directly replicate a climbing action.

What is the first step in selecting climbing-specific exercises?

The first step is to identify a specific movement in your climbing that you want to improve, such as a particular move or a weakness you've noticed in your climbing technique.

What two examples of climbing movements are discussed in the script, and how are they broken down for training?

The two examples discussed are an undercling move (focused on maintaining tension with the lower hand while pulling in with the upper body) and a heel hook (which uses the leg to drive the hips into the wall). Both movements require identifying key joints and muscles involved to target for training.

How does identifying the joints involved in a climbing movement help in exercise selection?

Identifying the joints helps pinpoint the muscles responsible for the action. This allows you to select exercises that target these muscles effectively, whether they are prime movers or stabilizers during the climbing movement.

Why is it important to choose exercises that allow progressive overload?

Progressive overload ensures that muscles are consistently challenged and can grow stronger over time. It’s important to select exercises that allow for measurable progress, such as using free weights or machines, instead of relying on bands or unstable exercises that don’t facilitate this progression.

What is meant by 'muscle length' when selecting exercises, and why is it important?

Muscle length refers to whether the muscle is working in a shortened or lengthened position during an exercise. This is important because training muscles in different positions can target specific strengths, and it’s essential to train through the full range of motion to build strength across different phases of a movement.

What is an example of a good exercise for training the biceps for a climbing-specific undercling move?

A bicep curl is a good exercise for training the strength of the biceps, which are crucial for the undercling lock-off position where the elbow needs to stay flexed.

Why is a stiff-legged deadlift recommended for hamstring and glute training in climbing?

A stiff-legged deadlift is recommended because it’s a simple, effective exercise that targets the hamstrings and glutes, which are important for movements like heel hooks. It’s convenient, easy to progressively overload, and requires minimal equipment.

How does training velocity (the speed at which an exercise is performed) affect strength development for climbing?

Training velocity is linked to different adaptations: higher velocity with lighter weights enhances speed and tendon adaptation, while lower velocity with heavier weights focuses on strength gains. Climbing often requires a balance of strength and speed, so varying training velocities can enhance overall performance.

In what situations might non-specific strength training still transfer to improved climbing performance?

Non-specific strength training can still improve climbing performance, especially for beginners or climbers new to strength training. Hypertrophy, or muscle growth, can also be beneficial for increasing force production, even if the training isn’t directly specific to climbing movements.

What is the importance of enjoyment when selecting climbing-specific exercises?

Enjoyment plays a crucial role in consistency. If climbers enjoy the exercises they are doing, they are more likely to stay motivated and stick with their training program. Over time, as strength and skills improve, training can become more specific to climbing.