How to Fix Climbing's Most Common Injury

Summary

In this video, Harley and James discuss the rehabilitation of a common climbing injury: the A2 pulley strain. Harley shares his experience of developing finger pain after increasing his training load in preparation for a climbing trip. James, a physiotherapist, explains the importance of accurate diagnosis using ultrasound and outlines a targeted rehab plan. Key strategies include progressive loading with various grip types using the Quad Block, daily finger exercises, and managing pain sensitivity. The video also addresses when climbers can return to full training, emphasizing the continuous process of rehab and training integration for recovery.

Takeaways

• 😀 Harley, a climbing enthusiast, experienced pain in the base of his left middle finger due to increased training intensity in preparation for a climbing trip.
• 😀 The injury was gradual and didn't involve a specific traumatic event, which is common for climbers gradually pushing their limits.
• 😀 After a couple of months with persistent pain, Harley sought a proper diagnosis, leading to an ultrasound scan that revealed an A2 pulley strain.
• 😀 Correct diagnosis is crucial in finger injuries as different issues like tendon sheath inflammation or flexor tendon strain require different rehabilitation approaches.
• 😀 To allow recovery, Harley reduced the intensity and volume of his training, focusing on appropriate rehab strategies to avoid aggravating the injury.
• 😀 Using specialized rehab devices, like the Quad Block, allows for consistent, low-load daily finger loading, which is more effective than traditional fingerboarding for injury recovery.
• 😀 Rehab included three grip types: wide pinch, three-finger drag, and half crimp, with a focus on gradual loading while minimizing pain and discomfort.
• 😀 Long-duration holds (e.g., 30-second grips) are beneficial for desensitizing the tissue and promoting a pain-relieving effect, which can help with rehabilitation.
• 😀 Pain during rehab is acceptable as long as it’s mild (2-3/10) and doesn’t worsen over time. Consistent rehab should not increase the injury’s severity after sessions.
• 😀 Progressive loading is essential in rehab, with gradual increases in weight every 2-3 days, as long as the finger feels stable afterward and doesn't worsen.
• 😀 Rehab is part of the broader training process, and transitioning back to full climbing and training should be gradual, with progressively higher loads in both rehab and training activities.

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