How to Trim Pots — Tips and Tricks — A Beginner's Guide

Summary

This video offers a comprehensive guide to pottery trimming, covering essential techniques and tools. It introduces tungsten carbide tools, which are sharp but brittle, and Loop tools, more affordable options for beginners. The video demonstrates various methods to secure pots on the wheel, emphasizing the importance of proper clay condition and tool handling. It also discusses different ways to trim pot bases, rims, and interiors, highlighting the significance of achieving a balanced and visually appealing finish. The host shares tips for recognizing issues and fixing them, ensuring a high standard of craftsmanship in pottery making.

Takeaways

• 🔧 Trimming tools used in pottery are typically made from tungsten carbide, which is very sharp and durable but brittle.
• 💡 Beginners are advised to start with cheaper, less sharp tools to avoid damaging expensive tungsten carbide tools.
• ⚖️ The condition of the clay, referred to as 'leather hard', is crucial for successful trimming and should be firm enough to hold its shape.
• 🤲 The way you hold the trimming tool is important for control; hold it close to the blade and use body weight for stability.
• 👐 The left hand should provide support to the pot, checking for balance and catching it if it comes loose during trimming.
• 🔗 Securing the pot to the wheel can be done with soft clay lumps, slip, or a chuck, depending on the pot's size and complexity.
• ✂️ Trimming involves removing excess clay to refine the shape, and different tools are used for different stages of the process.
• 🍶 When trimming drinking vessels, the rim should be beveled for comfort and to avoid wobbling.
• 🔄 If the pot's rim is wobbly, focus on trimming the high points to level it out before working on the sides.
• 🗑️ Excess clay can be a sign of improper throwing technique or over-trimming; it's important to maintain an even wall thickness.

Q & A

What are the recommended trimming tools for beginners in pottery?

For beginners, it is recommended to use trimming tools with sharp loop blades made from less expensive materials rather than tungsten carbide, as they are cheaper and teach the necessary skills before moving on to more expensive tools.

Why are tungsten carbide tools not recommended for beginners?

Tungsten carbide tools are not recommended for beginners because they are expensive, brittle, and require more skill to handle. The analogy given is that one would not learn to drive in a sports car, similarly, one should not learn pottery with such specialized tools.

How can you sharpen the loop blades on trimming tools?

The loop blades can be sharpened using a file and a bench grinder. However, due to their low cost, it is sometimes easier to replace them after a year or two of use.

What is the significance of the clay's condition being 'leather hard' in pottery?

Leather hard is a state where the clay has firmed up enough to hold its shape but is not yet fully dried. It is an ideal state for trimming as the clay should feel like slightly cold, damp leather and not easily deform when squeezed.

How should you hold a turning tool while trimming pottery?

You should hold the turning tool close to the blade, lean your forearm on the wheel tray, and lean your upper body weight onto that arm to ensure stability and control over the tool.

What are the different methods to secure a pot on the wheel for trimming?

There are three main methods: using three lumps of soft clay equally spaced around the pot, brushing slip on the base and tapping it onto the wheel, or using a chuck which is a solid piece of clay with a tapering shape to fit various pot shapes.

Why is it important to check the clay's condition before trimming?

Checking the clay's condition ensures it is at the right firmness for trimming. If it's too soft, it will be difficult to trim and may deform, while if it's too dry, it might crumble or crack.

How can you tell if a pot is properly centered on the wheel?

A pot is properly centered when the top of the piece is level and spinning true. This can be checked by tapping into the pot and observing if it spins evenly without wobbling.

What is the purpose of beveling the bottom of a pot?

Beveling the bottom of a pot makes the edge less likely to chip, creates a band of shadow that visually makes the pot appear lighter, and can enhance the overall aesthetic by making it look as if it's floating slightly.

How can you tell if the walls of a pot are too thin during trimming?

If the walls of a pot can be indented with just a small amount of pressure from a fingertip, they are too thin. This could lead to instability and the pot may not be salvageable.

What should you do if your trimmings are sticking back to the pot?

If trimmings are sticking back to the pot, it indicates that the pot is still too soft and needs more time to dry before it can be properly trimmed.

Outlines

00:00

🔧 Introduction to Pottery Trimming Tools and Techniques

This paragraph introduces the basics of pottery trimming, including how to hold tools, fasten pots to the wheel, and recognize issues. It emphasizes the importance of using the right tools, such as tungsten carbide blades, which are sharp but brittle. The speaker suggests starting with cheaper alternatives like Loop tools to learn the skills before moving on to more expensive options. The discussion also covers the importance of the right tool shape for specific tasks, the proper way to hold the tool for stability and control, and how to test the clay's readiness for trimming. The video script also touches on different methods for securing pots to the wheel, such as using soft clay lumps or slip, and the importance of the pot's condition when attaching it to the wheel.

05:01

🛠️ Advanced Techniques for Securing and Trimming Pottery

Paragraph 2 delves into more advanced techniques for securing and trimming pottery. It discusses the use of a plastic kidney to compress the bottom of the pot wall for secure placement and the advantage of this method in allowing for trimming without obstructions. The paragraph also covers the use of a chuck for simpler pots, the process of attaching it to the wheel, and centering the pot. The video script explains the use of a spinner tool for even pressure distribution, especially on thin bases. It also addresses the issue of tool chatter with tungsten carbide tools and how to correct wobbly rims by trimming the high points first. The paragraph concludes with methods for removing pots from the wheel after trimming, emphasizing the importance of not over-securing the pot with slip to facilitate easy removal.

10:01

🎨 Finishing Touches: Trimming Pot Bases and Rims

Paragraph 3 focuses on the finishing touches for pottery, including trimming pot bases and rims. It describes various methods for trimming bases, such as beveling the bottom to prevent chipping and creating a shadow line for visual appeal. The script also covers the use of a sharp flat metal kidney for burnishing surfaces and the importance of the potter's mark. The paragraph discusses the importance of considering the interior form of the pot during the throwing stage to facilitate easier trimming. It also addresses the issue of excess clay in interior corners and how to rectify it. The video script provides a comparison between different base trimming techniques, emphasizing the flexibility and personal preference in pottery finishing, as long as the final product is well-balanced and not overly heavy.

15:02

🌟 Wrapping Up: Tips for Drying and Trimming Pottery

In the final paragraph, the focus is on the drying process of pottery and the importance of experience in learning the right conditions for trimming. The script acknowledges the variability in drying methods due to factors like climate, studio conditions, and clay type. It encourages viewers to share their progress and offers to create follow-up videos for more advanced techniques. The paragraph concludes with a positive note, celebrating the joy of handmade ceramics and the infinite ways to finish pots, while also reminding viewers of the recyclability of clay and the ease of starting over if a pot is not turned out as desired.

Keywords

💡Trimming Tools

Trimming tools are essential for pottery, used to shape and refine the clay after it has been thrown on the wheel. In the video, the presenter discusses different types of trimming tools, including tungsten carbide blades which are sharp and long-lasting but brittle, and Loop tools which are more affordable and suitable for beginners. The choice of tool is crucial for the pottery process, as it affects the precision and quality of the final product.

💡Tungsten Carbide

Tungsten carbide is a material used for making the blades of certain pottery trimming tools. It is noted for its sharpness and durability, which allows for clean cuts and long tool life. However, it is also described as brittle, meaning it can break or chip if dropped. The video suggests that due to their cost and fragility, these tools may not be ideal for beginners.

💡Leather Hard

Leather hard is a stage in the drying process of pottery where the clay has firmed up enough to be handled but is not yet fully dried or hardened. The video mentions letting cylindrical forms sit overnight to reach this state, which is when they are ready for trimming. This term is important as it indicates the right consistency for clay to be worked on without deforming.

💡Loop Tools

Loop tools are a type of trimming tool with a blade shape that is almost ten times cheaper than tungsten carbide tools. Despite their lower cost, they are not as durable and their metal wears out quickly when used against the abrasive clay. The video suggests that these tools are ideal for learning the necessary skills before moving on to more expensive tools.

💡Turning Tools

Turning tools are used in pottery to shape and refine pottery on the wheel. The video discusses their use for both removing excess clay and shaping the pottery. It also mentions the importance of holding these tools correctly to ensure control and precision. The tools can be made of different materials, with tungsten carbide being a high-quality but expensive option.

💡Pottery Wheel

The pottery wheel is a device used to shape clay into pottery. In the video, it is mentioned as the central platform where the clay is both thrown and trimmed. The wheel's rotation allows for even distribution of pressure and precise control over the clay's form, which is essential for creating balanced and symmetrical pottery.

💡Slip

Slip in pottery refers to a liquid clay mixture used as an adhesive or to smooth surfaces. The video describes using slip to secure pots to the wheel for trimming. It is applied to the base of the pot and allows it to stick to the wheel, providing a stable platform for the trimming process.

💡Chuck

A chuck is a device used to hold pottery in place on the wheel, especially for trimming. The video explains that it is a solid piece of clay with a tapering shape that fits various pot shapes. It is attached to the wheel with slip and used to center and secure the pot, allowing for even trimming access to the entire pot.

💡Beveling

Beveling is the process of creating a slanted edge or surface, which is demonstrated in the video as a technique for finishing the bottom of pots. It is done to prevent chipping, improve the pot's appearance by creating a band of shadow, and to make the pot visually appear lighter. The video shows beveling as an alternative method to trimming the base of pots.

💡Bisque Firing

Although not explicitly mentioned in the script, bisque firing is an essential step in pottery that comes after trimming. It is the first firing of the greenware (leather-hard or bone-dry pottery) to硬化 the clay and make it durable enough to withstand further processing like glazing. The video's focus on trimming implies that bisque firing is a subsequent step after the pots have been properly shaped and dried.

Highlights

Introduction to basic pottery trimming techniques and tool handling.

Demonstration of creating basic cylindrical forms for pottery trimming.

Explanation of the 'leather hard' stage of clay and its importance in trimming.

Discussion on the types of trimming tools, their materials, and maintenance.

Advantages and disadvantages of tungsten carbide and Loop tools for pottery.

Techniques for sharpening pottery tools and when to replace them.

Importance of blade shape in pottery tools for effective trimming.

Tips on how to hold and use turning tools for pottery trimming.

Techniques for securing pots to the wheel for trimming.

Method of using slip to attach pots to the wheel and its benefits.

Use of a chuck for securing pots with different shapes.

Techniques for trimming the rim of a pot to ensure evenness and comfort.

How to correct a wobbly rim on a pottery piece.

Process of removing pots from the wheel after trimming.

Strategies for trimming the base of pots to prevent chipping and improve appearance.

Different methods for trimming the base of pots and their outcomes.

Advice on dealing with pots that become unstable during trimming.

Importance of the clay's condition and environment on the trimming process.

Encouragement for viewers to share their pottery progress and connect on social media.

Transcripts

this video is all about trimming the

basic stuff how to hold tools how to

fasten pots to the wheel how to

recognize all manner of issues and how

to fix them I started by just throwing a

few basic cylindrical forms on which to

demonstrate I then let them sit out

overnight to firm up to a state called

leather hard but more on that later

the first thing we need to discuss are

trimming tools these typically the kinds

I use their blades are made from

tungsten carbide which means they are

incredibly sharp and they last a long

time but they are very brittle and if

you drop one the blade will smash or

chip typically these types of turning

tools tend to be quite expensive and I

generally don't recommend them for

beginners and the analogy I like using

is that you would never let someone

learning how to drive a car learn in a

sports car so whilst these turning tools

are fantastic I wouldn't recommend

purchasing some until you're more well

versed with some of the other variants

these sharp Loop tools have similar

shaped blades but they're almost 10

times cheaper the metal on these wears

out quite quickly as they're pushed

against abrasive clay but they'll teach

you the skills you need to know before

moving on to the more expensive type

here's what I mean by the blade

diminishing and they'll even come a

point when this metal snaps you can

sharpen these tools yourself though I

use a file and a bench grinder to hone

their edges a bit but really they're so

cheap and cheerful that it's sometimes

easier just to replace them after a year

or two of use most Pottery supplies will

sell a range of these types of tools but

you do need to be careful that you're

purchasing the right shape of Blade as

these ones which look almost identical

in terms of profile have blades that are

completely rounded and are utterly

useless for trimming pots they're meant

for sculpting rather than trimming so

avoid these if you can

lastly you'll find turning tools with

big flat blades like so these aren't

very good at removing clay rather

they're better at shaping it and their

tools I'll use after I've removed the

majority of the mass from a piece of

pottery and I just want to refine the

shape they're not particularly good at

removing a lot of clay at once so I tend

to use them for a few specific tasks

rather than a majority of my trimming

ultimately the most important thing is

your hands themselves how you hold the

tool how you move it and lastly the

condition of your play when you hold the

Turning tool you don't want to hold it

near the back like this as you'll have

very little control over the tool and

you won't be able to dig it in very

firmly whilst maintaining control held

like this it really just skids over the

surface and for it to remove any

reasonable amount you need to use an

absurd amount of pressure so instead of

holding it to the far end hold it close

to the blade lean your forearm on the

wheel tray and then lean your upper body

weight onto that arm we want this

trimming hand to be as stable as

possible when trimming after all you

want to control the clay you don't want

the clay controlling you

as I work my left hand will do one of

two things it'll either Loosely clasp

around the pot ready to catch it if it

comes loose and you can also feel with

those digits if the pot has come off

center whilst doing that I also rest the

thumb of my left hand on the thumb of my

right hand so each supports the other

and adds stability to my movements now

the first thing you want to check is the

condition of your clay it should feel

like slightly cold damp leather and if

you squeeze it it shouldn't easily

deform so you should be able to pick it

up move it around and even tap it quite

firmly without any of it distorting and

one way to test this is to very gently

squeeze the rim if it holds its shape

then it's dry enough to be trimmed but

if as you squeeze it moves easily like

this

then it's still far too soft to trim

your fingers shouldn't leave imprints on

the clay nor should it stick to your

hands and so the next part of this

process is to attach this pot firmly to

the wheel and whilst I do quickly Taps

into the pot here that's not what this

video is about and I have one

specifically about that process which

I'll link to down in the description

below or on screen now

one way of securing the pot in place is

by pushing three lumps of soft clay

around the pot equally spaced like the

points of a triangle as I do this I keep

the pot pinned down so it doesn't shift

off center As I push the soft pieces of

clay against the pot this is but one of

a few ways of attaching it down and you

can do it with the pot either facing up

like this or flipped upside down with

the base pointing up but for a majority

of my pieces I do it a different way I

brush some slip over the base making

sure I don't coat it all the way to the

center as if the entirety of the base

sticks to the wheel and it can be quite

difficult to remove you can see just how

quickly this slip dries just in the time

it's taken to speak these few words so

I'll apply some more you don't want

loads and then I place it onto the wheel

and tap Center it the friction caused by

the clay rubbing against the metal helps

it stick and then this slip itself dries

too holding it firmly so lastly just to

make sure it's really securely held in

place I use the corner of a plastic

kidney and compress just the bottom

portion of the wall into the metal wheel

and that should be enough to really

firmly secure the pot in place and one

bonus of this method is that there

aren't any lugs of clay that get in the

way of your trimming and you can work

all the way from top to bottom although

typically this is a technique I save for

larger more complex pieces and so

usually for mugs and other simple pots I

use a Chuck this is a solid piece of

clay which I throw with a tapering shape

so that it can fit a variety of

different shapes of pots let the hard

pieces are slotted over it and trimmed

like normal but first the Chuck needs to

be attached to the wheel and I do this

in practically the same way I attach

leather hot pots to the wheel like shown

earlier in this video slip is coated

onto the bottom and then it's tap

centered into place

once firmly stuck down

the leather high part is placed onto it

but it still needs to be centered so

that the top of the piece is totally

level and spinning true and so to do

this I tapped into the piece again but

this time I focus my tapping at the top

of the pot I've rhythmically strike it

with my right hand whilst my left hand

is pushing down to pin the pot lightly

down in place then I firmly push the

whole pot down over the chuck

and finally I use a spinner tool which

is placed on top and through this I can

apply downward pressure these are useful

tools to use on the basis of pots as it

distributes the pressure that your

fingertips might usually apply in one

small spot and they're especially useful

when the basis of the pots you've made

are very thin

I then take my trimming tool as normal

clasp firmly in my hand and I turn the

sides the good thing about this way of

trimming pots is that it grants you

access to the entirety of the sides and

the base at once although of the three

methods I've shown you of securing your

pots down in place to trim it's probably

the most difficult one to get right but

they become such extraordinarily useful

objects especially when you're trimming

lots of identical pots on mass because

you don't have to fuss around with slip

or lumps of soft clay to secure the pot

down in place

for those of you using tungsten carbide

turning tools you may find that they

chatter somewhat as you're using them so

often after trimming a pot I'll scrape

over that same surface with a sharp

metal kidney like this just to remove

the worst of those indentations it also

helps to trim your clay when it's

slightly on the firm side of leather

hard the only Advantage this method has

where the base is slipped in the rim is

now facing upward is that not only can

you trim the sides but you can also trim

the rim which not all Bots need but

sometimes you'll find that they're

either a bit too thick or you forgot to

finesse them at the throwing stage and

so there's no harm at fixing them at

this point and for a drinking vessel

especially I'd bevel out that thick

angular top and make it into a sharper

although still rounded point that fits

comfortably into the corners of your

mouth

you may find though that you've thrown a

pot that has a wobbly Rim this can be

difficult to correct but I do it like

this as you can see there's a high point

that spins around this is the area I

want to trim away first not the low

point this means when I hold my turning

tool I do so extraordinarily firmly

supporting it from underneath holding it

in space so it only carves Clay Away

From The Highest Point as it spins

around as that High Point lowers you'll

progressively remove more and more clay

as the rim levels out and then you can

begin taking play from the sides and

from the interior too which should help

and you'll be left with a rim that's far

more even compared to that you began

with it doesn't matter if it's not

perfect there's any undulation in the

room at this point is really just

exaggerated by the fact that the pot is

spinning around quickly which makes the

undulation far more obvious yet as soon

as I stop rotating the wheel your eye

won't pick up that discrepancy nearly so

easily

to remove pots from the wheel that have

been stuck down with slip I begin by

scraping away some of the excess clay

from around the base and then I use the

tip of the sharp knife whilst cupping

the pot with my left hand which is ready

to catch the vessel once it's removed I

then gently slide the sharp tip

underneath the pot

and it should quite easily dislodge as

long as you didn't apply too much slip

in the very middle of the pot

now if I was to trim the base of this

pot before placing it down I would

scrape away all the excess Clay on the

wheel as I don't want this embedding

itself into the rim I've just so

carefully finished

and then lightly place the pot down

gently tap Center it into the middle

and then I secure it in place with three

lugs of soft clay as I do this I'm

always pushing down on the pot from the

top and as the rim is a more flexible

part of the pot when I push these lugs

of clay down I push them directly down

and I let the excess that's squashed

against the pot either clay depends it

in place like this

I don't want to push the clay

horizontally into the rim of the pot as

that could distort the opening and make

it more oval in shape

and now as long as the rim on my pot was

thrown level then the base of the pot

should spin level two and now the base

can be turned when trimming an upturned

pot like this you always need to keep

some kind of downward pressure applied

to the pot itself when the Tool is in

the very middle of the pot it's the tool

that's applying that downward pressure

as it moves off to one side the

fingertips on my left hand take over and

they push down really quite firmly

throughout this process if the thickness

of the base can take it if the base is

too thin and you can't trim like this

then you can just use larger lumps of

clay around the outside secure the pot

down and if you feel when you've picked

up your pot before trimming it the base

of your piece is quite thick and heavy

then you can trim quite a lot away to

remove that heft but generally if I'm

making a flat bottom piece this is how

I'll finish it I begin by turning the

base flat and then I remove a beveled

edge of clay from around the outside

which I do for reasons I'll discuss in a

moment and then use a sharp flat metal

kidney to burnish these surfaces this

pushes the more coarse particles

contained in the clay like sand and grog

back into the body creating a smoother

burnished surface and lastly I take my

Maker's Mark and stamp it into the

leather hard clay and that's one mug

finished ready for a handle

now here's the reason I bevel the

bottoms of my pots the first thing is

that in contrast to an untrimmed piece a

raggedy sharp edge like this will be far

more susceptible to being chipped as

it's used

whereas with a bevel piece The Edge

which actually makes contact with the

tabletop is far more obtuse and is less

likely to chip or be damaged with use

it also creates a band of Shadow which

makes the pot appear as if it's just

floating ever so slightly which makes it

visually appear just a bit lighter

there are other ways of trimming the

bases of pots though and if you feel

like the base of your pot is really

thick and heavy then we can trim it like

this to make it feel more even and

balanced in your hands I begin by

scoring a line and this marks my outer

boundary of wear I'll be trimming I'll

then gradually remove clay layer by

layer from inside this designated area

as I trim I'll periodically push down

with a fingertip or thumb and if I feel

like the bass bows inwards or moves ever

so slightly then I know it's time to

stop trimming but if it doesn't budge

and it still feels really sturdy then

you can keep going down I'd lightly trim

over the outer portion of the foot just

to remove the majority of the lines left

from when the pot was wired off the

wheel after being thrown and then I can

keep trimming down until I'm comfortable

with the thickness of the base and if

you ever need to check the piece to feel

the weight don't be afraid of just

removing the pot from the wheel mid

turning to check that

foreign

section looks like for the piece with

the bevel bottom I trimmed earlier

ideally we want the clay to more or less

be even from top to bottom and

throughout the base too but sometimes

even if you've trimmed the base and you

feel like there shouldn't be any excess

clay left and it's still heavy then it

may be because you've got some excess

clay in the interior Corners here and

here and this is why when you're

throwing a pot it's so important to

consider the inside form of the piece

you're making and if you're making a

cylinder for instance you should throw

the interior with a sharper right angle

like this that way there's no excess

clay you can't remove at the Turning

stage

you can trim the insides of pots but

it's always quite a difficult task as

you can't really see or feel what you're

doing and all the trimmings simply clog

up on your tool which makes it even

harder and so just by making sure at the

throne stage the interior of your pot is

a certain shape you can make the Turning

process itself far more straightforward

and here's the pot which had the trimmed

footwell and this is really just another

way of doing it and it leaves you with a

nice Hollow you can glaze which is

something you couldn't do to the

previous pot ultimately there's no right

or wrong as long as the pot you're

making is finished to a high standard

and it isn't overly bottom heavy doesn't

matter what it looks like and that's the

joy of handmade Ceramics as there's just

an infinite way of finishing the pots if

you're trimming and the walls of your

pot become unstable and begin to move

then that likely means ideal play is too

soft or you've trimmed away too much

from them which is exactly what I'm

demonstrating here if you can indent the

clay with just a small amount of

pressure with your fingertip then the

walls of the pot are far too thin and

there's really very little you can do to

save the piece if this happens

thankfully though pots can be thrown

quite quickly so making another one

isn't too arduous and Clay is recyclable

so all of this can easily be reclaimed

and reused

if you're turning and your trimmings are

simply sticking directly back to the pot

itself then your pot is still way too

soft to be refining and it still

probably needs another few hours at

least all being left overnight before it

can be trimmed properly But ultimately

so much of this depends on the country

you live in the weather or the

environment in your studio is like

whether the Kilns have been firing or

not and even the type of clay itself

there isn't just one way of drying your

pots

to the right condition that's something

you learn with experience I hope you

found this video helpful trimming is one

of my favorite parts of making pots and

so whilst this video covers the basics

if I've missed anything please let me

know and I'll make a follow-up video and

I also want to make a more advanced

guide in the future anyhow thanks so

much for watching and best of luck

trimming your pots oh and if you ever

want to share your progress with me on

Instagram I'd love to see all the parts

you guys are making and I'll see you

next week

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