Traditional FOUGÈRE accords in PERFUMERY

Summary

In this detailed video, the creator walks through the iterative process of designing a fougère accord, emphasizing the importance of herbal, mossy, and animalic elements. After several attempts, adjustments to ingredients like cumin, oakmoss, and floral notes helped refine the composition. The speaker highlights the role of Ambroxan, bicyclononactone, and pine needle absolute in restoring balance and enhancing the herbal character of the accord. Encouraging experimentation, the video offers a versatile fougère base and invites the audience to explore variations, making it a valuable resource for fragrance enthusiasts.

Takeaways

• 😀 The speaker focuses on refining a fougère fragrance accord while working within the limits of IFRA regulations.
• 😀 Jasmine was found to add an undesirable indolic, animalic note, making it unsuitable for the fougère formula.
• 😀 The speaker decided to cut out some floral notes and return to a more basic, herbal fougère character in the formula.
• 😀 Cumarin and oakmoss, key ingredients of a fougère, were restricted, prompting the speaker to find suitable replacements.
• 😀 Bicyclononactone was used to replace cumin, helping restore the herbal characteristics of the original fougère formula.
• 😀 Evanel/vero was used as a substitute for oakmoss, though it didn't fully replicate the nuanced effects of natural oakmoss.
• 😀 Pine needle absolute was added to mimic some of the earthy, forest-like qualities of oakmoss in the fragrance accord.
• 😀 Ambroxan was included in the formula, providing a radiant, pleasant effect without overpowering the composition.
• 😀 The final iteration balanced herbal and earthy notes, eliminating soapiness and creating a more authentic fougère scent.
• 😀 The speaker encourages viewers to experiment with their own variations, adding different florals, citrus, or aromatic herbs to customize the fougère accord.
• 😀 The speaker also invites viewers to join a perfumery Discord group for further discussion and advice on perfumery techniques.

Q & A

What is the main goal of the perfumer in this video?

The main goal of the perfumer is to create a balanced and versatile fougère accord, focusing on recovering its original herbal character while experimenting with different replacements and avoiding overly floral or soapy notes.

Why did the perfumer decide to eliminate the jasmine in the blend?

The perfumer found that jasmine added a noticeable indolic note, which has a somewhat animalic odor. This was not considered ideal for the fougère accord, especially since it did not fit well with the intended fresh herbal character.

What role does bicyclic non-lactone play in this process?

Bicyclic non-lactone was added as a replacement for cumin, which was limited by IFRA regulations. It helped recover the cumin-like scent character, restoring the herbal feel to the fougère accord.

How did the perfumer address the absence of oakmoss in the formula?

The perfumer replaced oakmoss with evanel and veros, though they noted it lacked the nuanced forest-floor scent of natural oakmoss. To improve it further, the perfumer added pine needle absolute, which provided a closer approximation to the oakmoss character.

Why was ambroxan included in the formula?

Ambroxan was added because it enhances the overall scent by providing a radiant effect. It is known for improving the overall character of fragrance compositions and was believed to complement the fougère accord.

What changes were made in the final iteration to improve the fougère accord?

In the final iteration, the perfumer removed the geranium and floral notes, opting instead for a more herbal and woody focus. This decision aimed to create a more versatile and balanced accord that could be adapted for various fragrance types.

How did the perfumer ensure the final fougère accord wasn't too soapy?

The perfumer identified that the soapiness in earlier iterations stemmed from the absence of oakmoss and cumin. By reintroducing components like bicyclic non-lactone and pine needle absolute, the soapiness was reduced, and the herbal character was more prominent.

What other variations could be explored based on this fougère accord?

The perfumer suggests adding different bass notes such as vetiver, patchouli, and vanillin, or experimenting with florals like rose and heliotropin. Additionally, pushing the citrus or fresh aromatic side with ingredients like sage, rosemary, or various citrus materials is another direction to explore.

How can this fougère accord be used in different fragrance types?

This fougère accord is versatile and can serve as a base for various fragrance types. It can be used in fresh aromatic colognes or adjusted with added floral or citrus elements depending on the desired outcome.

What is the purpose of the perfumery Discord group mentioned in the video?

The perfumery Discord group was created as a community where enthusiasts and professionals can share ideas, ask questions, and seek advice on perfumery. It offers a space for collaborative learning and discussion about fragrance creation.