HYPERPIGMENTATION LAYERING

Summary

In this informative skincare video, Dr. V, a cosmetic formulator and doctor, addresses the challenges of treating hyperpigmentation, particularly in skin of color. She shares her personal experience with melasma and provides a comprehensive morning and evening skincare routine using The Ordinary products, focusing on ingredients like squalane, glycerin, Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin C, and niacinamide. Dr. V emphasizes the importance of a hydrating environment for effective treatment, the role of sunscreen in preventing pigmentation triggers, and offers a cost-effective routine for tackling stubborn hyperpigmentation.

Takeaways

• 😀 Hyperpigmentation, such as melasma, can begin as small freckle-like spots and spread across the face if not treated properly.
• 🌞 Sunscreen is crucial for preventing the spread of hyperpigmentation, as UV damage can trigger melanocytes to produce more melanin.
• 🧪 Many products on the market may not be effective for hyperpigmentation, especially for skin of color, due to low percentages of active ingredients.
• 💡 The speaker, a cosmetic formulator and doctor, created a channel to address the specific skincare needs of skin of color, including hyperpigmentation.
• 🚿 Morning skincare routines should start with a gentle, hydrating cleanser like Squalane to maintain a healing environment for the skin.
• 🧴 Alpha Arbutin is a key ingredient for treating hyperpigmentation as it inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme, reducing melanin production.
• 🍋 Vitamin C, specifically Ascorbyl Glucoside 12%, is recommended for its less irritating properties compared to Ascorbic Acid.
• 💦 A thick moisturizer with ingredients like ceramides is essential to hydrate and plump skin cells, reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
• 🌞 A broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 50 and PA++++ is vital to block UVA and UVB rays, preventing further pigmentation.
• 🌙 Evening routines should also prioritize cleansing to remove makeup, pollution, and UV exposure from the day.
• 🛒 The total cost of the recommended routine from The Ordinary is £45, offering an affordable approach to treating hyperpigmentation.

Q & A

What is hyperpigmentation and why is it challenging to treat?

Hyperpigmentation is a condition where patches of skin become darker in color than the surrounding skin. It's challenging to treat because it often results from an overproduction of melanin, triggered by UV damage or inflammation, and can spread across the face if not properly managed.

What is melasma and how did the speaker's mother identify it on her?

Melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation that typically appears on the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. The speaker's mother recognized it by its appearance as opposed to freckles, and warned her about the potential for it to spread across her face without proper treatment.

Why do melanocytes produce more melanin in response to UV damage?

Melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin, are triggered by UV damage to produce more melanin as a protective response. This increased melanin production can lead to the formation of hyperpigmentation.

What is the role of tyrosinase in the production of melanin?

Tyrosinase is an enzyme necessary for the production of melanin. By inhibiting tyrosinase, the rate of melanin production and thus hyperpigmentation can be reduced.

Why are some products on the market ineffective for treating hyperpigmentation?

Some products are ineffective because they may contain a low percentage of active ingredients, which are not sufficient to treat hyperpigmentation, especially for skin of color that often requires higher concentrations of actives without causing irritation.

What is the significance of using a moisturizer that is hydrating enough in the skincare routine for hyperpigmentation?

A well-hydrated skin environment is crucial for the effectiveness of active ingredients. A moisturizer that is hydrating enough helps to plump up the skin cells, reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation by creating space between cells loaded with melanin.

Why is sunscreen essential in the treatment of hyperpigmentation?

Sunscreen is essential as it blocks the UV triggers that can exacerbate hyperpigmentation. Without proper UV protection, the skin is more susceptible to further melanin production and the spread of hyperpigmentation.

What is the recommended morning skincare routine for treating hyperpigmentation according to the script?

The recommended morning routine includes cleansing with a hydrating cleanser, applying a tyrosinase inhibitor like Alpha Arbutin, using a Vitamin C derivative, moisturizing with a thicker moisturizer that may contain ceramides, and applying a broad-spectrum SPF 50 PA++++ sunscreen.

What is the role of niacinamide in the skincare routine mentioned in the script?

Niacinamide serves as a tyrosinase inhibitor, helping to reduce the rate of melanin production. It can also be mixed with moisturizers to achieve a balance between hydration and concentration of active ingredients.

What is the cost of the skincare routine recommended by the speaker for treating hyperpigmentation?

The total cost of the recommended routine is approximately £45, which includes products like Granactive Retinoid, NMF, a cleanser, Niacinamide, Vitamin C, and Alpha Arbutin.

What is the alternative product the speaker created for those with stubborn hyperpigmentation that doesn't respond to the drugstore routine?

For stubborn hyperpigmentation, the speaker created a facial hyperpigmentation kit containing all 10 tyrosinase inhibitors, offering a stronger alternative to the drugstore products.