My Evidence-Based Skincare Routine

Summary

In this informative video, Ali Abdaal, alongside dermatologist Dr. Usama Syed, breaks down the essentials of a productive skincare routine. They emphasize the importance of moisturizing, daily sunscreen use, and incorporating retinoids for anti-aging benefits. The video debunks the complexity of skincare, advocating for a simple yet effective regimen that includes affordable, evidence-based products, and touches on the role of cleansers for maintaining skin health.

Takeaways

• 😀 A simple skincare routine involves using a moisturizer, sunscreen daily, and a retinoid every evening.
• 🌞 Sunscreen is crucial as it protects against UVA and UVB rays, which can cause photoaging and skin cancer.
• 🛡️ Moisturizers help maintain the skin's barrier function by replacing natural fats and proteins, preventing dryness and irritation.
• 🌙 Retinoids, including retinol and tretinoin, can reduce wrinkles, pigmentation, and acne by promoting skin cell regeneration and collagen production.
• 💧 A hydrating cleanser can be beneficial for removing excess oil without stripping the skin of its natural oils, especially for those with heavy makeup or excessive dirt.
• 💰 Dr. Usama Syed suggests that effective skincare products shouldn't cost more than $30, as the active ingredients can be obtained more affordably.
• 🧴 For morning skincare, Ali Abdaal uses a hydrating cleanser and a moisturizer with SPF 50, while at night he uses a retinoid cream followed by a moisturizing lotion.
• 📈 The benefits of retinoids include anti-aging effects, but they require consistent use over time and may cause initial skin sensitivity.
• 🔬 The 'brick and mortar' model of the skin explains how moisturizers replenish the skin's protective layer, similar to mortar between bricks.
• ⏱️ SPF numbers indicate how much longer it takes for the skin to redden with sunscreen compared to without, but actual protection may be less due to application thickness and activities like sweating.
• 👨‍⚕️ Dr. Usama Syed, a board-certified dermatologist, provides professional advice on the video, emphasizing the importance of a few key products over numerous expensive ones.

Q & A

What is the main purpose of a skincare routine according to the video?

The main purpose of a skincare routine is to maintain healthy skin and achieve aesthetically pleasing skin. It involves actions that can be taken today to benefit one's future self in terms of skin health and appearance.

What are the three basic steps of a skincare routine as suggested by Ali Abdaal?

The three basic steps of a skincare routine are: 1) using a moisturizer, 2) applying sunscreen every day, and 3) using a retinoid every evening.

Why is moisturizing important for the skin?

Moisturizing is important because it helps maintain the skin's barrier function, keeping irritants and allergens out and locking in moisture. Without proper moisture, the skin can become dry, cracked, and more susceptible to inflammation and infections.

What is the 'brick and mortar' system of the skin, and how do moisturizers contribute to it?

The 'brick and mortar' system of the skin refers to the structure where keratinocytes (cells) are the bricks and the mortar is made up of fats and proteins that bind them together. Moisturizers replenish this mortar layer, helping to keep the skin barrier intact and prevent moisture loss.

What is the recommended price range for effective skincare products according to Dr. Usama Syed?

Dr. Usama Syed recommends that no skincare product should cost more than $30, as the active ingredients and effectiveness can be achieved within this price point without the need for additional 'fluff'.

Why is sunscreen essential in a skincare routine?

Sunscreen is essential because it protects the skin from UV radiation that can cause DNA mutations, leading to premature aging, wrinkles, dark spots, and potentially skin cancer. It provides an extra layer of protection against these harmful effects.

What does 'broad spectrum' mean in the context of sunscreen, and why is it important?

Broad spectrum in the context of sunscreen means that it provides protection against both UVA and UVB rays. It is important because both types of rays can damage the skin, and broad-spectrum sunscreen offers maximum protection by guarding against both.

What is the significance of SPF in sunscreen, and how should it be interpreted?

SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, indicates how much longer it would take for the sun to cause skin reddening with sunscreen on compared to without it. However, the actual SPF level on a product may not reflect the true level of protection due to factors like application thickness and daily activities that can reduce its effectiveness.

What are the benefits of using retinoids in skincare, and how do they work?

Retinoids offer several benefits, including reducing wrinkles by promoting collagen growth, minimizing uneven pigmentation, and increasing skin cell regeneration for a fresher appearance. They work by affecting the skin's structure and function at a cellular level.

What advice does Dr. Usama Syed give for beginners starting with retinoids?

Dr. Usama Syed advises beginners to start with a small amount every other night, gradually increasing to once a night while using plenty of moisturizer. He also suggests that the initial use should make the skin feel slightly dry, indicating the retinoid is strong enough.

What is the role of a cleanser in a skincare routine, and how should it be chosen?

A cleanser is meant to help remove oils and debris that water alone cannot. It should be hydrating and gentle, not stripping the skin of its natural oils. Ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides are beneficial as they help maintain skin hydration and the skin barrier.

Can you provide a summary of Ali Abdaal's daily skincare routine as described in the video?

In the morning, Ali cleanses his face with CeraVe hydrating cleanser in the shower and applies Altruist SPF 50 Face Fluid after drying his face. In the evening, he washes his face with warm water and the same cleanser, applies his Dermatica retinoid cream, and moisturizes with CeraVe PM moisturizing lotion.

Outlines

00:00

🧴 Basic Skincare Routine Essentials

Ali Abdaal introduces the fundamentals of a simple yet effective skincare routine, emphasizing the importance of moisturizer, daily sunscreen, and evening retinoid use. He suggests that a cleanser can be optional but beneficial. The video aims to debunk the complexity of skincare and focus on scientifically-backed practices for healthy and attractive skin. Ali also discusses the long-term benefits of a skincare routine, considering what actions today would benefit our future selves.

05:01

🛡️ The Importance of Moisturizers and Sunscreens

Ali Abdaal, along with Dr. Usama Syed, explains the significance of moisturizers in maintaining the skin's barrier function, preventing dryness and irritation. They discuss the 'brick and mortar' structure of the skin and how moisturizers replenish the protective layer. Sunscreen is highlighted as crucial for preventing photoaging and skin cancer due to UV radiation. The video provides guidance on choosing broad-spectrum sunscreens with an SPF of at least 30 for adequate protection, and the importance of reapplication throughout the day is also mentioned.

10:05

🌞 Sunscreen Application and Retinoid Benefits

Ali Abdaal continues the discussion on sunscreen, addressing common misconceptions about SPF and the need for comfortable, high-SPF products that users will consistently apply. He shares his personal sunscreen choices for face and body. The video then introduces retinoids as an anti-aging component, explaining their role in reducing wrinkles, pigmentation, and promoting skin cell regeneration. Dr. Syed praises retinoids as a near-miracle ingredient, and Ali shares his experience with over-the-counter and prescription-strength retinoids.

🧪 Understanding Retinoids and Cleansers in Skincare

The video delves deeper into the types of retinoids, with a focus on tretinoin for its effectiveness and the potential side effects of stronger formulations. Dr. Usama Syed advises on the initial use of retinoids and the expected skin response. Ali Abdaal shares his personal retinoid regimen and the importance of starting slow and using moisturizers to counteract dryness. The role of cleansers in skincare is also discussed, with a preference for hydrating cleansers that remove oils without stripping the skin's natural moisture.

🧴 Ali Abdaal's Personal Skincare Routine and Conclusion

Ali Abdaal outlines his daily skincare routine, which includes a hydrating cleanser, SPF moisturizer, and retinoid cream, followed by a moisturizing lotion. He reflects on how his understanding and practice of skincare have evolved after conversations with dermatologists, leading to a simplified and effective routine. Ali encourages viewers to seek legitimate skincare advice from professionals and promotes Dr. Usama Syed's channel for further information. The video concludes with a summary of the discussed products and their benefits.

Keywords

💡Skincare routine

A skincare routine refers to a sequence of steps and products used to maintain and improve the health and appearance of one's skin. In the video, the importance of having a skincare routine is emphasized for both healthy and aesthetic reasons, and a simple yet effective routine is outlined involving moisturizer, sunscreen, and retinoid use.

💡Moisturizer

A moisturizer is a type of skincare product that helps to hydrate the skin and maintain its barrier function by locking in moisture. In the video, it is mentioned as the first step in a skincare routine, with the script highlighting the benefits of using moisturizers from reputable brands like Eucerin, CeraVe, and La Roche-Posay.

💡Sunscreen

Sunscreen is a product that protects the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, which can cause premature aging and increase the risk of skin cancer. The video emphasizes the importance of daily sunscreen use and discusses the significance of broad-spectrum protection and SPF levels.

💡Retinoid

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives used in skincare for their anti-aging effects, including reducing wrinkles, uneven pigmentation, and promoting skin cell regeneration. The script introduces retinoids as a key component of an evening skincare routine and discusses their benefits and potential side effects.

💡Photoaging

Photoaging, also known as dermatoheliosis, is the damage to the skin caused by prolonged exposure to UV radiation, leading to wrinkles, age spots, and a rough texture. The video uses a case study of a truck driver to illustrate the dramatic effects of photoaging due to uneven sun exposure.

💡SPF

SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, is a measure of the effectiveness of a sunscreen in protecting the skin against UVB rays. The video explains that a higher SPF provides longer-lasting protection before the skin reddens, but also points out that the actual protection people get is often less due to the way sunscreen is applied.

💡Broad-spectrum

Broad-spectrum sunscreens offer protection against both UVA and UVB rays, which are harmful to the skin. The video stresses the importance of choosing broad-spectrum sunscreens for maximum skin protection.

💡Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a substance naturally found in the skin that helps it retain moisture, contributing to skin hydration and elasticity. In the video, it is mentioned as an ingredient in hydrating cleansers that help maintain skin moisture without stripping natural oils.

💡Ceramides

Ceramides are lipids that are a major component of the skin's barrier and help to lock in moisture. The script mentions ceramides as an ingredient in CeraVe products, which are recommended for their hydrating and skin barrier-supporting properties.

💡Cleanser

A cleanser is a product used to remove dirt, oil, and makeup from the skin. The video suggests that while not everyone may need to use a cleanser daily, it can be beneficial for those with heavy cosmetics or visible dirt, and recommends using a hydrating cleanser to avoid skin dryness.

💡Adapalene

Adapalene is a type of retinoid used in over-the-counter products for its effectiveness in treating acne with less irritation compared to other retinoids. The video mentions Differin gel, which contains adapalene, as a recommended product for beginners looking to incorporate retinoids into their skincare routine.

Highlights

A simple skincare routine involves using a moisturizer, sunscreen daily, and a retinoid every evening.

Moisturizers help maintain the skin's barrier function by locking in moisture and preventing dryness and irritation.

Sunscreen is crucial for preventing photoaging and skin damage caused by UV radiation.

Broad-spectrum sunscreens protect against both UVA and UVB rays, which are responsible for skin aging and cancer.

The SPF number indicates how much longer it takes for the skin to redden with sunscreen compared to without it.

Retinoids are potent anti-aging ingredients that reduce wrinkles, pigmentation issues, and promote skin cell regeneration.

Retinol is a weaker, over-the-counter form of retinoids suitable for beginners, while stronger forms require a prescription.

Differin gel with adapalene is recommended for beginners as it causes less irritation than other retinoids.

Cleansing is optional and may be beneficial for removing oils and debris, especially after heavy cosmetics or sweating.

Hydrating cleansers are gentle and should not strip the skin of its natural oils, potentially including ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides.

CeraVe products are recommended for their simplicity, effectiveness, and reasonable pricing.

Ali Abdaal's skincare routine includes cleansing, moisturizing with SPF in the morning, and using retinoid and moisturizer at night.

The skincare routine simplification came after consultation with dermatologists and understanding the importance of a few key products.

Dr. Usama Syed emphasizes that no skincare product should cost more than $30, as effectiveness can be achieved at a lower price point.

The importance of topping up sunscreen every few hours due to sweating and smudging throughout the day was discussed.

Retinoids should be started with a small amount and gradually increased to avoid excessive skin sensitivity and dryness.

Ali Abdaal's personal experience with retinoids suggests that consistency in application leads to visible skin improvement.

Transcripts

Ali Abdaal (00:00): All right. So having the perfect  

skincare routine is actually pretty simple.  All you need is a few things. Number one,  

use a moisturiser, number two, use some kind of  sunscreen every day. Number three, use some kind  

of retinoid every evening. Feel free to wash your  face with a cleanser if you really want to. And in  

fact, you can do two in one and you can get this  sunscreen moisturiser combination. And that is all  

you need to know to get a really solid skincare  routine going, but, okay, let's go a little bit  

deeper into the details. Like why should we have a  skincare routine in the first place? And then what  

is the scientific evidence that these are the  sorts of products that we should actually care  

about? Well, there's two main reasons. Number one  for healthy skin and number two for pretty skin.  

And a question that I like to think about is what  are the actions that I can take right now today  

that my future self would be very glad for. Ali Abdaal (00:38):  

So in theory, if I can find the perfect evidence  based productive skincare routine that helps me  

maximise my skincare results with minimum effort,  then I'm winning in terms of health and also in  

there are millions of skincare products out there,  like avocado, face masks and charcoal cleansers,  

and LED therapy and snail slime face creams. Speaker 2 (01:06):  

Slather On the slime. Ali Abdaal (01:07):  

Now I trained as a doctor, but  I'm not a skincare specialist.  

So I've enlisted the help of my friend, a New  York trained dermatologist Dr. Usama Syed to  

find out exactly what we should actually be doing  to get good skin and apparently to get like 90%  

of the results all we have to do is follow three  or four simple rules and we'll do absolutely fine.  

So why should we actually use a moisturiser?  Well, the most important thing that the skin  

does is that it acts as a barrier to the outside  world and it keeps irritants and allergens outside  

of our body and locks in moisture. If our skin  loses moisture and gets dry and cracked, that  

barrier gets weakened, which means inflamed red  itchy skin. And you might even get infections.  

Dr. Usama Syed (01:43): And the way the skin is built is that they  

call it a brick and mortar system where, you  have the little cells, which are the bricks  

called the keratinocytes and you have the mortar,  which is like the little paste in between it made  

up of different types of fats and proteins. Now  what these moisturisers do, especially the ones  

that are evidence based, is they will replenish  that layer of paste to help keep that barrier  

intact so you don't lose moisture. Therefore,  you don't have inflammation, itchy skin.  

Ali Abdaal (02:07): Now anyone can get dry skin,  

but you're especially likely to get it after  having a hot shower because that dries out your  

skin and strips away your natural protective  layer of oils. So we want to find a good  

moisturiser that rehydrates that skin, replaces  our natural fats and proteins and helps keep the  

skin barrier intact. So what sort of moisturiser  do we actually want to get? Well, Usama's main  

recommendations for moisturiser are any standard  product from Eucerin, CeraVe, or La Roche-Posay,  

mainly because those are huge companies that have  the budgets to do lots and lots of research and  

quality control on their products. Dr. Usama Syed (02:35):  

I firmly believe no skincare products should ever  cost more than $30, because anything beyond that  

point is you're paying for the fluff. The active  ingredient and getting something effective can  

always be done for less than $30. Ali Abdaal (02:46):  

So what products do I use? Well, my main dedicated  moisturiser is from CeraVe and I use CeraVe PM  

for moisturising in the evening. It's very  nice. It's very chill. It's available absolutely  

everywhere. It's reasonably priced and it feels  really nice on my skin. And then in the mornings  

I use the Altruist dermatologist Face Fluid,  SPF 50 moisturiser, which is a moisturiser  

combined with sun cream. And this brings us to  rule number two of my productive skincare routine,  

which is to use a sunscreen every single day. Ali Abdaal (03:12):  

Well, have a look at this case report from the  New England Journal of Medicine, which is one  

of the most prestigious medical journals in the  world. They looked at this truck driver who'd  

spent 28 years working with just the left side of  his face, being exposed to sunlight through the  

driver's side window. He's 69 years old in this  photo, but the researchers said that the left  

side of his face, which has a bunch of wrinkles  and damage from sun exposure is apparently more  

like what you'd expect from an 86 year old skin.  That's what the sun does to your skin, if you're  

regularly exposed to it without any protection.  And that happens even if you never actually get  

sun burnt, but you just tan. Ali Abdaal (03:40):  

Technically this is called photoaging or  dermatoheliosis. And it happens because the  

sun is constantly bombarding us with UV radiation  that mutates the DNA in our skin cells. And then  

in the long term, the more of this UV light  that we're exposed to without protection, the  

more we get wrinkles and dark spots from that DNA  mutation. And that DNA mutation can also lead to  

skin cancer, which is ultimately just unrepaired  DNA mutations that snowball into cancer.  

Dr. Usama Syed (04:01): So what sunscreen does is it gives you an extra  

layer of that protection, so that not relying  upon your own pigment, your own melanin. Instead,  

we're getting a physical barrier, which will stop  genetic mutations being created by the sun. And  

not only is that great for preventing skin cancer  also, it prevents things like photoaging.  

Ali Abdaal (04:18): All right. So what sort of sun cream should  

you get? Well, there's loads of different options  on the market, but there's mainly three things  

that you want consider here. Well, the first  thing you want to look for is that you want to  

find a sunscreen that's broad spectrum. Now, back  in the day, people used to think that it was only  

UVB raise rays that actually damaged our skin.  But now we know that it's UVA rays and also UVB  

rays and broad spectrum sunscreen has protection  for both sorts of rays and therefore gives you the  

maximum protection. Now some sunscreen is physical  and some is chemical. It doesn't really matter  

which type of variety you go for. What matters  is that the SPF is high enough. And that is the  

second thing that we need to look out for. Now  the actual SPF number of the sunscreen refers to  

how much longer it would take for the sun to make  your skin go red with the sunscreen on compared to  

without the sunscreen on. Ali Abdaal (04:58):  

So if it would normally take one hour of direct  sunlight on your cheeks to make them a little bit  

red, then in theory, with SPF 15, it would take 15  hours if you got exposed to the exact same amount  

of sunlight. But it's not quite that simple and  there's extra issues that we do want to consider  

with SPF. Firstly, we don't need to actually burn  for the sun to damage our skin and cause ageing,  

we want to be protected well before our  skin actually gets physically red. Secondly,  

the SPF is calculated based on a pretty thick  amount of sun cream actually going on the skin.  

Dr. Usama Syed (05:23): I do say don't go below 30  

typically. The number that you get on there, you  never truly get that level of protection based on  

how normal people wear it. Because it would rely  on like a pretty thick layer of sunscreen, like  

caked on there. Most of us will be getting around  like say 60% of that true SPF protection factor.  

So if you use a 50, you'll actually get a 30. If  you use a 30 you'll get a 15 kind of thing.  

Ali Abdaal (05:42): And finally, in reality, we sweat and  

smudge our faces all the time, which takes away  a lot of our sun cream protection during the day.  

So in an ideal world, we actually want to top up  our sunscreen every few hours. I don't personally  

bother with this, but what I do try and do is  I use a high SPF like SPF 50 because chances  

are even with SPF 50, I'm only really likely to  get SPF 30 or 20 or 15 levels of protection. Now  

the final thing to think about with sun cream is  comfort. And the issue with the max SPF sunscreens  

is that they can be uncomfortable or make you  look like you're wearing this sort of white  

pasty makeup. And the thing we want to bear in  mind is that some SPF is way better than no SPF.  

So actually an SPF 30 sun cream that you actually  like and feels comfortable on your skin and that  

you're actually going to wear is way better than  the state of the art gold standard SPF 100 sun  

cream that you buy once. Ali Abdaal (06:26):  

And they never really use because it makes you  look like a clown. Right. So what products do I  

actually use? Well in the mornings, I use  Altruist dermatologist Face Fluid, which  

has SPF 50 built into a moisturiser. So that's  what I use on my face. This one costs about $11  

here in the UK. And then usually on my body,  I will also use the Altruist dermatologist,  

sun cream with SPF 50. And this is what I use on  my arms, on my legs, on my neck, on my shoulders,  

whatever, especially if it's a very sunny day  and I'm going out in t-shirt and shorts and this  

one's actually really cheap. It's about $4 or  five pounds here in the UK. But to be honest,  

you can find whatever product works for you  in your country. It doesn't really matter.  

Ali Abdaal (06:58): All right. So this one is a little bit more  

rogue. So we've all probably heard of moisturisers  and sunscreen, but most people have not heard of  

retinoids. And in fact, I hadn't really heard of  retinoids as being good for normal people's skin  

even though I went to med school. I only really  heard of retinoids being a treatment for acne  

and that's exactly what they started out as. It  was like this vitamin A based treatment for acne  

in the 1970s. But then researchers found that the  active ingredient retinol actually had a bunch of  

anti-ageing effects as well. Dr. Usama Syed (07:24):  

I think it is as close as possible to a miracle  ingredient that you'll get anywhere in the  

world of skincare. When it comes to retinoids  they genuinely lay a credible scientific case  

for helping reduce pigment, unevenness, helping  to minimise wrinkles, help to minimise acne  

breakouts. And they do all of these things to a  level where it's noticed in clinical trial data  

and on biopsy samples from the skin.  Something that does all of those things  

with minimal to no downside I consider that to be  something which it really is worth your time.  

Ali Abdaal (07:54): Now there's been a tonne of  

research and studies into retinoids and like Usama  says, they've pretty consistently found that when  

you apply a strong enough retinoid for a long  enough time, then there's three main positive  

effects that you get. Firstly, retinoids reduce  wrinkles by promoting the growth of collagen and  

elastic fibres in the dermis or the thick middle  layer of our skin. And if we have enough collagen  

and elastic fibres deeper down in our skin,  then it gives our skin a healthy, young looking  

structure. Ageing and UV damage makes us lose  these collagen fibres. And that's what makes our  

skin sag and look old. The second positive thing  that you get from retinoids is that they reduce  

uneven pigmentation, i.e. like dark or discoloured  spots that you get on your skin, particularly  

again from sun damage. And thirdly retinoids also  make our skin cells regenerate faster, which means  

our skin consistently looks fresh and new. Ali Abdaal (08:35):  

So overall basically retinoids make most people's  skin look younger and smoother and healthier. So  

if like me, you do want to start using a retinoid,  then remember that you are playing a really long  

game because it does take a long time to see  results. And to be honest, when you're young  

and you don't really have that many wrinkles,  I think it's mostly preventative rather than  

kind of curative as it were. And the thing with  retinoids is that they can also make some people's  

skin feel a little bit more sensitive. It can make  your skin peel and it can sometimes make your skin  

feel a little bit painful. And that's why a lot of  people don't actually stick with it long enough to  

see the benefits. So what sort of retinoid  should you get? Now, this is where it kind  

of gets complicated because retinoids actually  come in different types of strength levels.  

Ali Abdaal (09:10): Now the first big one is  

retinols. Now retinols are part of the retinoid  family, but they are the weaker version. Now,  

if you see any kind of skincare product labelled  anti-ageing and you can get it over the counter,  

it usually has some kind of retinol in it,  i.e. the weaker version of a retinoid. Then  

we have retinoids, which are stronger and they're  generally prescribed by a doctor. And tretinoin is  

one of the most common ones and the one that I  use. You'll see a bigger change with retinoids  

than retinols because they're stronger, but the  side effects can potentially be stronger as well,  

like peeling and dry skin and like a little  bit more sensitivity. So if you are going for  

a retinoid, then it is worth it to be a little bit  more careful with these and maybe even consult a  

doctor before actually start to here's one. Dr. Usama Syed (09:46):  

What I always tell people is when you're using  a retinoid at the beginning, it should make you  

feel a little bit dry at least. If it doesn't even  teeter on the edge of making you feel a bit dry,  

you wonder whether you need a higher strength  because maybe your skin is just more tolerant  

and maybe you need to apply more, because it  should be, especially at the beginning, it should  

be like, Ooh, I feel a little bit dry today. Like  I need to put on more moisturiser since I started  

my retinoid this first week. And if you don't feel  that it's probably not strong enough for you.  

Ali Abdaal (10:08): The over the counter  

retinoid based product that Usama recommends for  beginners is Differin gel, which costs about $20  

and has a slightly newer type of retinoid in it  called adapalene, which causes less irritation  

than a lot of other retinoids. But because that  one's kind of hard to get in the UK, the one that  

I get is actually from a place called Dermatica,  which is like this online consultation type thing.  

They're do an online consultation with you.  You send them some pictures of your skin.  

It's a bit of a faff initially because technically  a doctor has to review those images and prescribe  

it for you at least here in the UK. But then  once you've been prescribed it, they just send  

you it every month. I've been getting the  deliveries for about seven months now.  

Ali Abdaal (10:41): So I initially started on a 0.025% tretinoin  

and then over the last seven or eight months,  it's been up to 0.1% tretinoin which is like  

a decent level of strength for a retinoid. And  remember the general recommendation for retinoids  

is to start with a tiny pea sized amount every  other night, and then work your way up to once a  

night using lots of moisturiser at the same time.  And this helps keep your skin from drying out.  

Dr. Usama Syed (11:03): So when it comes to cleanses is basically  

water is good at removing debris, but a  cleanser is supposed to kind of help to  

remove some of the oils that might stay on your  skin that are hard to remove with just water.  

Ali Abdaal (11:14): Some dermatologists say that if you're using lots  

of heavy cosmetics or if you have visible dirt or  like loads of sweat on your face, then yeah, you  

can use a cleanser, but actually for most people  you could just clean your face using water without  

needing to worry about these kind of products.  Anecdotally, for me, I find that on days where I'm  

consistently using my cleanser morning and evening  those weeks, I tend to get a lot less breakouts  

of like random shit on my face. Like I tend to  get kind of troubled areas around the nose and  

stuff. And generally I find that if I've forgotten  to cleanse, then I'm more prone to those kind of  

things. So, and equals one. But yeah, this is rule  number four and it's a little bit optional.  

Dr. Usama Syed (11:46): It will have some benefit incrementally  

and you should focus on a hydrating cleanser  that doesn't end up stripping your skin of  

all the oils and leaving you feeling tight.  It should end up being very gentle and in  

the end, your skin should actually feel more  moisturised even after having cleansed it.  

Ali Abdaal (12:00): So a hydrating cleanse like this one is going  

to remove the oily stuff without theoretically  stripping away all of your skin's natural oils.  

And it'll also usually contain special ingredients  like hyaluronic acid, which apparently keeps your  

skin hydrated and ceramides, which is what all the  CeraVe products include, which are basically fats  

that replace some of your skin's natural oils  so you can lock in moisture and keep that skin  

barrier intact while also having a cleanser.  So the one that I use is the CeraVe hydrating  

cleanser. It's pretty reasonably priced and you  can get it from most places. And what I like  

about the CeraVe products is that they're very  like chill. They're not like trying to overly  

wow you with the avocado extract or the hero  ingredient. It's just literally it looks like  

medication and that's what skincare really needs  to look like. It doesn't need to be as fancy as a  

lot of these other really expensive products  that we get sold by random influencers.  

Ali Abdaal (12:46): So here is my overall productive skincare routine,  

adding up all of this evidence based stuff. In  the morning, I wake up and I shower and I cleanse  

my face in the shower with the CeraVe hydrating  cleanser. And then when I'm out of the shower,  

I dry my face with a face towel and I  put on the Altruist SPF 50 Face Fluid,  

which is the sunscreen and moisturiser rolled  into one. So just two products in the morning  

and it's super nice and easy. And then in the  evening after brushing my teeth, I generally  

wash my face with warm water. And again, I  use the CeraVe hydrating cleanser in the sink.  

And then again, I dry my face with a face towel  and then I put on my Dermatica retinoid cream. And  

then after giving it a few minutes to settle in, I  moisturise with the CeraVe PM moisturising lotion.  

And that feels pretty good. Ali Abdaal (13:29):  

And that's it. Like honestly, before having  this extensive conversation with Usama and a  

few other dermatologists to be like, what should  I actually be using for my skincare routine, I  

thought skincare was going to be this complicated  thing. And I didn't want to bother with it,  

but now like once I saw the before and after  photos and once I spoke to dermatologists  

and they were like, yeah, these are the only  three or four products that actually matter.  

It simplified the whole thing. And now I've been  using this kind of productive skincare routine  

for the past eight months I think now. Ali Abdaal (13:54):  

You can also find my full interview with Usama  about skincare on my vlog channel. He goes in  

depth on more products and treatments that he'd  recommend. So check it out if you like. And if  

you're interested in more legit skincare advice  from an actual board certified dermatologist,  

then definitely check out Usama's channel linked  down in the video description. Hope you enjoy  

the video. Hope you got something out of it and  hopefully see you in the next one. Bye-bye.