Anthony Bourdain A Cooks Tour Season 1 Episode 1: A Taste of Tokyo

Summary

In this engaging journey, Anthony Bourdain explores Tokyo's vibrant culinary scene. He starts at Tsukiji Fish Market, guided by sushi master Mr. Togawa, who emphasizes the meticulous preparation of Edomae sushi. Bourdain marvels at the market's fresh seafood, including eels and octopus, which are later transformed into exquisite dishes. He also delves into sumo culture, observing training and enjoying a hearty chanko meal with wrestlers. This immersive experience highlights the deep respect for ingredients and the unique culinary traditions of Japan, blending precision with communal enjoyment.

Takeaways

• 🍽️ The script follows a culinary journey through Japan, exploring the depth and variety of its cuisine.
• 🌆 The narrator leaves New York City in search of new tastes and experiences, aiming to explore the extremes of emotion and experience in food.
• 🐟 The Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo is highlighted for its vast selection and high-quality seafood, integral to Japanese cuisine.
• 🍣 Edomae sushi is introduced as a high-end, traditional sushi style, emphasizing uncompromising quality and presentation.
• 👨‍🍳 Mr. Togawa, a sushi master, is featured, showcasing his expertise in selecting and preparing sushi-grade fish.
• 🔪 The importance of knife skills in Japanese cuisine is underscored, with a focus on the precision and technique required for sushi preparation.
• 🍢 The script contrasts the refined art of sushi-making with the hearty, communal dining experience of chanko, the traditional sumo wrestlers' food.
• 🤼‍♂️ Sumo wrestling is depicted as a serious and secretive tradition, with its own unique diet and lifestyle.
• 🍲 Chanko is revealed to be a balanced, one-pot meal, contrary to the initial expectation of a high-fat diet for sumo wrestlers.
• 🥳 The dining experience of chanko is portrayed as fun and social, with the dish's flavor profile evolving as ingredients are added.
• 🏆 The cultural significance of food in Japan is emphasized, with practices such as sake pouring symbolizing respect and hospitality.

Q & A

What is the main character's profession and what is he searching for?

The main character is a cook who is in search of new tastes and smells as memories. He is leaving New York City to explore the world in hopes of experiencing extremes of emotion and culinary experiences.

Why does the main character feel like he is in a science fiction setting when he arrives in Tokyo?

He feels like he is in a science fiction setting because of Tokyo's futuristic and atmospheric vibe, which is reminiscent of the movie 'Blade Runner', making him realize he is somewhere completely different from home.

What is the significance of Edomae sushi in the context of Japanese cuisine?

Edomae sushi represents a high-end, classic version of sushi that is known for its uncompromising quality, preparation, and presentation. It embodies the traits of Japanese presentation, such as contrasting textures, colors, and portion size.

What does the main character think about the Tsukiji fish market?

He is fascinated by the vastness and the choreography of the Tsukiji fish market. He notes the system in place and the seriousness with which the Japanese treat seafood, highlighting the respect for ingredients in Japanese culture.

What is unique about the way Mr. Togawa, the Edomae sushi master, selects his ingredients?

Mr. Togawa selects his ingredients with a focus on the highest quality, such as choosing the fattiest part of the tuna known as toro, which is highly valued for its marbling and flavor.

How does the main character describe the octopus he sees at the Tsukiji market?

He describes the octopus as having a strange and terrible beauty, and he is so moved by the sight that he feels like weeping, indicating his deep appreciation for the seafood.

What is the main character's reaction to the meal prepared by Mr. Togawa?

He is overwhelmed by the quality and taste of the meal, expressing that it is one of the most incredible dining experiences of his life and that he feels ready to die from satisfaction after eating it.

What is the significance of the sumo wrestling stable visit in the script?

The visit to the sumo wrestling stable provides insight into the serious and secretive nature of sumo in Japan, as well as the opportunity to learn about the traditional sumo diet, known as chanko.

What misconception does the main character have about sumo wrestlers' diet before trying chanko?

He initially believes that the sumo diet consists of high-fat foods like pasta, beef, and fatty pork, but later discovers that chanko is about balance, protein, and bodybuilding food, rather than just bulk.

How does the main character describe the experience of eating chanko?

He finds chanko to be fun, hearty, and accessible, noting that it is a communal and interactive dining experience that changes in character as ingredients are added and the flavors develop.

What cultural significance does sake have in the context of the script?

Sake is considered sacred in Japanese culture, and pouring it for others is a sign of affection, friendship, and hospitality. The act of pouring sake back is also an important part of the ritual, symbolizing respect and reciprocity.

Outlines

00:00

🍽️ Culinary Adventures Begin

The narrator, a cook, reflects on the importance of tastes and smells in his memories as he embarks on a journey to discover new experiences around the world. His first stop is Tokyo, which he describes as a Blade Runner-esque, vibrant city. He expresses excitement about exploring Japanese cuisine, particularly sushi, and meeting local experts Michiko and Shinji.

05:04

🐟 Tsukiji Fish Market

The narrator visits the Tsukiji Fish Market with sushi master Mr. Togawa. He learns about the Edomae sushi style, emphasizing quality and preparation. The narrator is fascinated by the market's vastness, the variety of seafood, and the precise, skilled knife work involved in preparing sushi. He observes Mr. Togawa selecting premium ingredients like eel and tuna.

10:05

🍣 Sushi Preparation and Dining

The narrator watches Mr. Togawa prepare high-quality tuna, appreciating the care and expertise involved. They enjoy a meal of tender octopus and various sushi, including the prized otoro. The narrator marvels at the artistry and dedication required to master sushi-making in the Edomae tradition and reflects on the solemnity and respect for food in Japanese culture.

15:05

🤼‍♂️ Sumo Wrestlers and Chanko

The narrator visits a sumo wrestling stable and observes the intense training. He learns about the sumo diet, particularly chanko, a hearty one-pot meal. The narrator dines at a chanko restaurant, enjoying the communal, dynamic nature of the meal. He is surprised by the balance of ingredients aimed at building strength rather than just bulk.

20:05

🍲 The Appeal of Chanko

The narrator finds chanko to be a fun and accessible meal, suitable for casual dining. He notes the contrasts between the precision of sushi and the abundance of chanko. Reflecting on his culinary journey in Japan, he feels inspired and excited by the diverse and rich experiences he encountered.

Keywords

💡Tsukiji

Tsukiji refers to the famous Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo, known for its vast variety of fresh seafood. In the video, Anthony Bourdain visits this market to explore and purchase high-quality fish for sushi, emphasizing the market's role in Japanese culinary tradition.

💡Edomae sushi

Edomae sushi is a style of sushi that dates back to the Edo period, characterized by its high-quality ingredients and meticulous preparation. The video highlights the dedication and expertise required to prepare Edomae sushi, showcasing its importance in Japanese cuisine.

💡Otoro

Otoro is the fatty belly portion of the tuna, prized for its rich flavor and marbling. In the video, Bourdain discusses the value and appeal of otoro, illustrating its status as a delicacy in Japanese sushi culture.

💡Sumo

Sumo is a traditional Japanese form of wrestling known for its heavyweight competitors and ritualistic elements. The video includes a segment where Bourdain visits a sumo stable, observing their training and diet, and emphasizing the cultural significance of sumo in Japan.

💡Chanko

Chanko refers to the hearty stew eaten by sumo wrestlers, consisting of various meats, vegetables, and tofu. The video shows Bourdain enjoying chanko, explaining its role in the diet of sumo wrestlers to maintain their strength and size.

💡Sake

Sake is a traditional Japanese rice wine often enjoyed during meals and ceremonies. The video features a moment where Bourdain and his hosts share sake, highlighting its cultural significance and role in Japanese hospitality.

💡Knife skills

Knife skills refer to the precise and artful techniques used by chefs to prepare ingredients. The video showcases the exceptional knife skills of Japanese sushi chefs, particularly in handling delicate fish, underscoring the craftsmanship involved in sushi preparation.

💡Eel

Eel, or unagi, is a valued ingredient in Japanese cuisine, known for its rich flavor and texture. In the video, Bourdain explores the preparation and culinary use of eel, illustrating its importance and the care taken in its preparation.

💡Presentation

Presentation in Japanese cuisine emphasizes the visual appeal of dishes, including color, texture, and arrangement. The video highlights how Japanese chefs prioritize presentation, especially in sushi, to create a harmonious and aesthetically pleasing dining experience.

💡Tokyo

Tokyo, the bustling capital of Japan, serves as the backdrop for Bourdain's culinary exploration. The video depicts Tokyo's vibrant food culture, blending traditional and modern elements, and its impact on global culinary trends.

Highlights

Introduction of the main character and the journey from New York City to explore new culinary experiences around the world.

First impression of central Tokyo, likening it to a science fiction setting like Blade Runner.

Interest in experiencing the full spectrum of Japanese cuisine, particularly sushi.

Introduction to the Edomae sushi master and the central fish market, Tsukiji.

Explanation of Edomae sushi, highlighting its high standards of quality and preparation.

Visit to Tsukiji market, describing its size, system, and the variety of seafood available.

Observation of the meticulous selection process of seafood by Mr. Togawa.

Discussion on the prized eel in Japan and its supposed stamina-giving properties.

Detailing the cooking process of the selected seafood, including the octopus and eel.

Mr. Togawa's knife skills and the preparation of otoro (fatty tuna) for sushi.

Experience of eating at Mr. Togawa's restaurant, emphasizing the respect for ingredients in Japanese cuisine.

Comparison of the dining culture in Japan with the fast-paced, volume-focused dining culture in New York.

Introduction to a sumo wrestling stable and the unique diet of sumo wrestlers, focusing on chanko.

Description of chanko as a communal, hearty meal that changes character as ingredients are added.

Reflection on the different culinary experiences in Tokyo, from the precision of sushi to the bulk of chanko, and their impact on the narrator.

Transcripts

(gentle music)

- Welcome to my world.

Two escargot, pate brisee.

Two green salads.

Lamb chops, steak frites.

Shouldn't you be doing something?

Two smoked filet and a pepper steak.

Come on, make the dessert.

Chocolate torte, please.

- [Voiceover] As a cook, tastes and smells are my memories.

Now I'm in search of new ones.

So I'm leaving New York City

and hope to have a few epiphanies around the world,

and I'm willing to go to some lengths to do that.

I'm looking for extremes of emotion and experience.

I'll try anything, I'll risk everything.

I have nothing to lose.

First thing you think when you hit central Tokyo,

you think Blade Runner.

It's very science fiction, it's very atmospheric.

You really know you're somewhere else.

This is far from home.

I knew the kind of kaleidoscope full of color,

light and flavor I would find here.

I'm really looking forward to the psychedelic

assault on the senses.

I'm very interested in eating my way

through the full spectrum of Japanese cuisine.

I think almost all modern chefs are impressed

by Japanese presentation, the importance of

contrasting textures, colors, portion size.

Embodying all of these traits is Japan's best known

contribution to world cuisine, sushi.

- Very violent dreams last night.

Full color, sound, increased heart rate.

I woke up thinking of sushi.

I'm particularly fortunate that my liaisons here

are Michiko and Shinji.

Michiko translates and has in every way

paved the way for the ignorant but enthusiastic American.

And Shinji, driving, translating,

and thank god he's a Yankee fan,

so I know I'm in good hands.

- All right.

- [Voiceover] We're on our way to meet

an Edomae sushi master, who is going to show us

around Tokyo's central fish market, Tsukiji.

Edomae's sushi is high end stuff,

not just because it's pricey, which it is,

but because of the uncompromising quality,

preparation, and presentation involved.

- If you translate Edomae, what does it mean literally?

- Edomae, Edo is the name of the period of ancient Japan.

- Okay.

So it really does mean old style?

Classic version.

- Yeah, classic version, yeah.

Sushi is just like cutting fish.

- Fresh.

- But Edomae's, they need lots of preparation.

- [Voiceover] Edomae preparation standards

are not sushi on the go.

Absolutely uncompromising on quality, regardless of expense.

It's purist sushi.

- Very pleased to meet you.

- Nice to meet you.

- Anthony Bourdain.

- [Voiceover] I'm fortunate enough during this visit

to Tsukiji to accompany Mr. Togawa,

the chef owner of Karaku restaurant in Ginza district.

- Gotta have my appropriate footwear, of course.

- [Voiceover] This is sort of like Joe DiMaggio

or Lou Gehrig showing you around Yankee Stadium.

From the point that it practically leaps out of the sea

to the point where I pop it in my mouth,

Mr. Togawa will be by my side.

Prepare to lose your mind.

- Just lift off.

Your head will just unscrew and bounce off the ceiling.

- [Voiceover] Tsukiji is acres and acres

of fish, fish, fish.

(vendor shouting)

Restaurants, retail store owners, and other buyers

are purchasing fish for the day.

Over 2600 tons of fish is sold here daily.

That's a big (bleep) tuna sandwich.

First thing you encounter when you visit Tsukiji is big.

It's really big, it's really spread out,

and the choreography has to be seen to be believed.

There is a system here.

Everybody seems to know the moves except me.

- Mr. Togawa, we're going to follow him around

as he does his shopping, and then we're going back

to his restaurant and he's going to show us

what he's going to do with this stuff.

(bells, vendors chanting)

- [Voiceover] There are few things that get chefs as excited

as looking at a really pristine piece of seafood.

- Abalone, about $40 a piece in the States.

Liver?

- I want sea eel.

- He can show you sea eel.

The different kinds of eel that we are going to eat.

- [Voiceover] Eel is an expensive delicacy in Japan.

Prized not just for its flavor,

but for its legendary, how shall I say,

stamina-giving properties.

Viagra of the sea.

- He looks tasty to me.

- [Voiceover] Having picked out his eels,

Mr. Togawa is now ready to move on to his next purchase.

- See the octopus?

Just incredible.

I just want to start weeping.

- [Voiceover] Generally in the life of a chef,

you find yourself working comfortably

within a certain range of flavors and textures,

and then suddenly, you see all this.

Immediately you want to rush back to your kitchen

to find a way to work with what you've just bought.

This octopus is holding on for dear life.

He's got a death grip on the tank.

As excited as I am, the Japanese that live here

seem just as excited.

- Here we go, say good bye.

- [Voiceover] Seafood is taken very, very seriously here.

- It's got a strange and terrible beauty to it.

- [Voiceover] Value is put on good food.

- Very fresh.

- [Voiceover] To us, food is worthless

until somebody famous puts a sauce on it.

It's not that way here.

There is a respect for ingredients

that goes against the grain of a lot of western cooking.

One widely used ingredient is the much revered tuna.

- So what are we looking for here?

What is Mr. Togawa looking for?

It's explained this is the fattiest part,

the most valued part.

- We call it toro.

- It's gorgeous.

A big difference, toro and everything else.

- [Voiceover] It's the equivalent

of a beautifully marbled steak.

Fat is good, and the rippling of fat through the meat

is what distinguishes that belly meat

from the rest of the tuna.

- You get that same feeling of being at Tiffany or Cartier.

You just look at this with lust.

Just the subtle difference, it's like rating gems.

It's fought over, bid over, talked about, and examined.

You can see they are very different pieces

with very different qualities.

When you're a chef, you come down here and see this,

you're thinking what you can do with these various pieces.

I can hardly wait to see what Mr. Togawa

is going to do with this stuff.

- What's that bit in Apocalypse Now?

"I love the smell of napalm in the morning."

I love the smell of fish and soy

and rice wine in the morning.

It smells like victory.

- [Voiceover] I'm always very wary

of stepping into other chefs' kitchens.

- Hi.

- It's an obstruction.

I'm instantly aware chemically, on a cellular level,

when there are interlopers in my kitchen.

(speaking Japanese)

- [Voiceover] Despite its resistance,

the octopus still ends up in Mr. Togawa's kitchen.

At least he can take solace in the fact

that ending your life here is a great honor.

- I have some Portuguese friends

who would just go insane over this.

And some Italians.

- Now they are going to put salt.

- [Voiceover] Salt is rubbed into the octopus

to bring out the excess moisture as well as add flavor.

There are so many good things he can do with this.

I'm thinking he can chill it, make a salad of it grilled,

you can make a salad of it slowly stewed.

I understand that Mr. Togawa is using his octopus

for a special appetizer.

Tenderize it.

- [Voiceover] At the sushi bar, Togawa's chefs are busy

making magic with fresh fish from Tsukiji,

including the eel.

- Sounds fresh.

Even with my eyes closed, it sounds fresh.

I'm thinking, nice knife technique.

You do not see this level of knife skills

in French kitchens.

- [Voiceover] Despite the dazzling knife work,

this eel is not ready to eat yet.

- He boils 20 minutes.

It's sugar.

A lot of sugar, and then some soy sauce.

That's sake, the rice wine.

- [Voiceover] Mr. Togawa begins working

with the best of the good stuff,

otoro.

- This is the piece that we saw him pick out at the market.

He's breaking it into components.

The boss always takes a proprietary interest

in not only the most expensive stuff,

but also the stuff that gives him the most pleasure.

At first you tell yourself it's because

I don't trust anyone else to have something

this beautiful and this expensive.

Then you realize I'm doing it because I like it.

- [Voiceover] Mr. Togawa now divides the tuna

into smaller pieces for sushi.

The lesser grade fish goes into a marinade,

and the really good stuff gets put aside

for immediate use in its pristine, fresh form.

- I'm experiencing a pleasurable form of dementia.

Look at that, that's sex, man.

- [Voiceover] Finally the meal is ready.

Michiko, Shinji, and I sit down to eat.

- [Michiko] Ganpai.

Octopus.

- [Voiceover] Our appetizer is slowly simmered octopus.

It's very tender, and served with just a dash

of sweet plum sauce.

- [Michiko] The skin is melting.

- Spectacular.

- [Voiceover] As we're eating the appetizer,

Mr. Togawa himself is preparing our main dish.

Pieces of uncooked fish, vinegared rice,

and fresh wasabi are molded smoothly together.

While this is the most commonly known form of sushi,

in the exacting standards of the Edomae tradition,

it takes a lifetime to master the economy and grace

of movement necessary to make an artful presentation.

An elite sushi chef like Mr. Togawa

trains for more than 12 years.

- Oh man.

I was going to say I was ready to die right now,

but no, I'll be ready to die after this.

(laughing)

Okay, what do we have here?

- [Michiko] Flounder.

- Shrimp or prawn?

- [Shinji] Prawn.

- Prawn, and...

- [Michiko] Tuna.

- Not just tuna, this is otoro.

- [Voiceover] Also on the plate are marinated tuna

and raw eel.

- You can't just explain, you know?

How can I explain?

- Oh, wow.

This, I know what that is.

- [Shinji] Sea eel.

- That's the sea eel.

You're struck dumb.

It's almost like you're cheapening the thing

by talking about it.

(speaking Japanese)

- I have a glazed expression on my face.

It's just pure pleasure.

- Thank you very much.

- Now would you like to do the apprenticeship here?

Three years?

- I wouldn't do that.

(speaking Japanese)

- [Voiceover] Although I was refusing Mr. Togawa's

generous offer, he still had one very important lesson

on the menu.

- I'm ready to die now.

(laughing)

I will have lead a full and rich

and satisfied life at this point.

(speaking Japanese)

- Japanese people consider the sake as a sacred thing,

so pouring the sake shows his affection, his friendship,

his hospitality.

It's very important in Japanese culture.

And also you pour it back.

It's your turn to pour it back.

- Thank you, thank you very much.

- [Voiceover] The religious analogy keeps coming up.

There's something church-like, at least for me.

There's a sense of solemnity here.

There's no nonsense, there's no distraction.

Nothing fake about it.

- Church of food, it's the only church I know.

- Ganpai, cheers.

- [Voiceover] Very cold iced sake.

You get that ice cream headache sort of thing.

- You feel it on your tongue first,

then it works its way up into your brain.

- Thank you.

- Thank you for one of the most incredible

dining experiences of my life.

I will be always grateful.

- Me too.

- [Voiceover] Leaving Mr. Togawa's restaurant,

I'm feeling that my New York fast-food fast-paced culture

has missed the boat.

- For us, restaurants are like gas stations.

You pull in, you fill up, and you move on,

preferably as quickly as possible.

The idea of volume was much more important than quality.

"Did you have a good meal?"

"Yeah, they gave me all the shrimp you could eat!"

That's not a...

That's really silly.

You know, bulk. It explains a lot about our culture.

- [Voiceover] Speaking of bulk, check these guys out.

It happens that I have come into a one time opportunity

to visit a sumo wrestling stable,

the gym and home of the team.

(bell ringing)

- Here I come, and I know nothing about sumo.

I exude ignorance.

- [Voiceover] Watching the sumo wrestlers train,

this is like being lead into a secret society.

Sumo is serious business in Japan.

Something outsiders just aren't allowed to see.

They're not kidding in there.

These guys are really going at each other.

Some of them get tossed out of the ring

and come rolling right at me.

I don't want one of these guys landing on me, no way.

They'll break me like a day old biscuit.

The feeling of being surrounded by that much bulk,

I mean, what do these guys eat?

I'm interested in what I heard is sumo food.

Chanko, it's called.

I'm thinking, well, how un-Japanese this sounds.

- Must mean bulk food, high on starch.

I had this idea of, they're sitting around

eating pasta and beef, massive hunks of fatty pork.

- [Voiceover] I'm very lucky to be introduced

to Mr. Tomatsuna, of Tomatsuna Stable.

Tomatsuna is a former champion himself.

Today he is an oyakata,

which is the boss of the sumo stable.

All of the wrestlers live on premises.

What they eat, when they eat,

these are all rigorously dictated by the oyakata,

who completely controls their lives.

He cooks for them, looks after their training,

their health, in a quest to make them the best.

- He's an old lion,

and he pretty much saw me as an insignificant

curiosity, I think.

Nevertheless I'm determined to find out

the secret diet of the sumo.

- The wrestlers have a tremendous power.

The food that he selects must reflect

the need for this power.

(speaking Japanese)

- He says people tend to think

that a sumo wrestler is just fat.

That is not true.

Actually they need the balance of energy,

and the balance of weight.

- Do all the wrestlers learn to cook

as part of their training?

- [Michiko] That's right.

- They behaved much in the same way, five years ago,

if you'd walk into my kitchen and want to talk to my cooks.

Fiercely protective.

- [Voiceover] It's one-pot cooking.

A lot of guys living together cook in one pot.

The food is not about just getting these guys big.

We're not here building blubber.

- I was clearly wrong in this.

He's looking for balance of protein and bodybuilding food.

- [Voiceover] Unfortunately that's all I'm able to find out

at this kitchen, anyway.

Let's go to take a trip to a chanko restaurant

to experience the sumo diet firsthand.

After a full day of watching sumo wrestlers train,

I'm definitely ready to eat like one.

- We're gonna have a chanko meal, and I'm hungry.

You hungry?

- I'm starving.

- Excellent.

- [Voiceover] Chanko is the food of the Sumo,

and the specialty of Chanko Edosawa restaurant.

Immediately it becomes obvious the secret to eating

like a sumo isn't in the fat, but in the quantity.

It's a nabe, like a big soup,

a big boiling pot of broth in the center of the table.

Everybody adds something.

You add things in stages.

- Originally the chanko was made of chicken soup,

but now they cook everything.

- [Voiceover] Beef, chicken, meatballs, seafood,

mushrooms, green vegetables, tofu,

onions, radishes, egg, rice.

You can use it all, and we are.

- And of course it's like a nabe style, which is boiled

in order to provide a hot meal for the rikishi,

which is the wrestlers.

You can see the taste of the soup is changing gradually.

- [Voiceover] I really had no idea what to expect.

One of the first surprises is that chanko is fun.

Sort of like a living dish, in that as the conversation

proceeds and the subject matter changes,

the character of the dish can change as well.

It can start out fairly light,

but you can add stronger ingredients,

and of course as it cooks down, it becomes stronger as well.

- I like that.

It is spicy.

It's really good, it's really hearty,

and I really like the style of cooking,

and the style of eating. I mean, this is fun, it's casual.

We all sit around, we all put stuff in,

we all take stuff out, we all serve each other.

I think Michiko and Shinji take particular delight.

Their whole countenance has changed

during the course of this meal.

- I feel honored to be served.

For friendship, for serving chanko.

- It's fun. I like this.

- [Voiceover] For such an almost cult-like

closed society of sumo,

their food is perhaps the most accessible

for the everyday American.

I can see chanko taking off in the United States.

(laughing)

(grunts, coughs)

- I know how he feels, and I'm well on my way.

- [Voiceover] From the precision and restraint

of Edomae sushi, to the volume and bulk of chanko,

in a 24 hour period.

Eating my way around the world.

It would be intimidating, I think,

if it just wasn't so exciting.

I think it's gonna take about a week to walk off this meal.