Why Only 1% Of Japan's Soy Sauce Is Made This Way | Still Standing | Business Insider

Summary

This video explores the traditional, painstaking process of making authentic soy sauce through barrel aging, a method that takes years to perfect. Yasuo Yamamoto, a fifth-generation soy sauce maker, handcrafts wooden barrels called kioke, which are crucial to the fermentation process. Despite industrialization and the rise of faster, chemical methods, Yasuo continues to uphold the centuries-old tradition. His dedication and passion for preserving this craft extend beyond his own business, as he trains future generations to keep the tradition alive. The resulting soy sauce is a premium product prized by chefs for its balance of umami and natural sweetness.

Takeaways

• 😀 Soy sauce is a vital ingredient in Japanese cuisine, but only 1% of it is made through the traditional barrel-aging method.
• 😀 The process of making soy sauce using wooden barrels, called kioke, takes years, unlike the faster, industrial methods.
• 😀 Yasuo Yamamoto, a fifth-generation soy sauce maker, still hand-builds his own barrels to maintain traditional quality.
• 😀 Wooden barrels are resistant to salt, last over a century, and are essential to the authenticity of soy sauce.
• 😀 The fermentation of soy sauce involves a combination of steamed soybeans, crushed wheat, koji fungus, and specific microbes in a wooden barrel.
• 😀 Yasuo checks the soy sauce daily, using his experience to assess its fermentation based on scent and appearance, noting shifts from apple to banana-like smells.
• 😀 The fermentation process can take over a year and a half, and Yasuo oversees 87 barrels at different stages.
• 😀 During World War II, the Japanese government shifted to faster, cheaper production methods, leading to a decline in traditional wooden barrel use.
• 😀 Yasuo took over his family’s soy sauce business in 2003 and saved it from debt, learning the craft and modernizing some processes.
• 😀 Yasuo’s soy sauce is known for its balanced umami flavor, which comes from a natural fermentation process, unlike industrial soy sauces that add sweeteners.
• 😀 To ensure the continuation of traditional soy sauce production, Yasuo conducts barrel-making workshops and sells his soy sauce globally, with a focus on preserving its legacy.
• 😀 Yasuo views passing down the art of soy sauce brewing as his life's mission, hoping future generations will continue his work and appreciate the innovations he made.

Q & A

What makes Yasuo Yamamoto's approach to soy sauce unique?

Yasuo Yamamoto's approach is unique because he is one of the few soy sauce makers in Japan who still hand-builds his own wooden barrels, called kioke, for fermentation. This traditional method of barrel aging takes several years, allowing the soy sauce to develop a deeper, more complex flavor.

Why are wooden barrels, or kioke, important in the production of authentic soy sauce?

Wooden barrels, or kioke, are crucial in the production of authentic soy sauce because they help create an ideal environment for the fermentation process. The wood is resistant to salt and can last for over 100 years, unlike metal barrels, which can corrode over time.

What role do microbes play in the fermentation process of soy sauce?

Microbes are responsible for fermenting the soybeans and wheat mixture in the barrels. The microbes break down the ingredients over time, contributing to the soy sauce's complex flavor profile. Yasuo's careful management of these microbes, through daily mixing and air pumping, ensures high-quality soy sauce.

How does the traditional soy sauce fermentation process differ from modern industrial methods?

The traditional fermentation process takes at least a year and a half, with the soy sauce aging in wooden barrels, allowing the natural microbes to work slowly. In contrast, industrial methods use steel barrels and chemical additives to speed up the process, often producing soy sauce in a matter of months.

Why is Yasuo's soy sauce considered superior to industrial soy sauce?

Yasuo's soy sauce is considered superior because it is naturally fermented over a long period, without any artificial additives or sweeteners. This gives it a balanced umami flavor with a sweeter aftertaste, unlike industrial soy sauces that often rely on added sugar or chemicals to mimic the same taste.

How does Yasuo know when the soy sauce is ready for the next stage in the process?

Yasuo monitors the soy sauce's scent and appearance to determine when it is ready. Initially, the soy sauce has an apple-like scent, which eventually changes to a banana-like aroma as the fermentation progresses. His experience helps him know exactly when to move the soy sauce to the next stage.

What challenges did Yasuo face when taking over his family’s business?

When Yasuo took over the business in 2003, he faced significant challenges, including pulling the company out of debt and learning the technical aspects of soy sauce production on his own. His father’s sudden illness forced him to take over at a young age, but he persevered by teaching himself new techniques and processes.

What is saishikomi soy sauce, and how is it different from regular soy sauce?

Saishikomi is a type of soy sauce that is darker and has a stronger flavor than regular soy sauce. It is made by fermenting the soy sauce for an additional two years in the barrel, which allows it to develop a sweeter aftertaste. Regular soy sauce is typically pressed after a shorter fermentation period.

How does Yasuo contribute to preserving the tradition of soy sauce making?

Yasuo preserves the tradition of soy sauce making by hand-building wooden barrels and passing on his knowledge through workshops. He trains new craftsmen and helps others around the world experience the process of traditional barrel-aged soy sauce. He also ensures the legacy of soy sauce making is passed down to future generations.

Why is Yasuo's soy sauce priced higher than commercial alternatives?

Yasuo's soy sauce is priced higher than commercial alternatives because it is made using a traditional, labor-intensive process that involves handcrafting barrels and allowing the soy sauce to ferment naturally over years. This time-consuming method results in a more flavorful and high-quality product, which is reflected in the price.