Chef Hitoshi Umamichi is One of Japan's Gyoza Masters — The Experts

Eater
7 Nov 202212:30

Summary

TLDRThe video showcases a restaurant renowned for its handmade gyoza, prepared using a recipe unchanged since its founding. The owner emphasizes the dedication to maintaining traditional methods, from dough-making to filling preparation, using fresh ingredients like Napa cabbage, garlic chives, and pork belly. The gyoza are meticulously hand-wrapped, fried to perfection, and served with crispy wings. The owner's passion for preserving the original flavor, developed over decades of experience, is highlighted, along with the recognition the gyoza has received, including being featured in the Michelin Guide.

Takeaways

  • 🥟 The restaurant's signature dish is gyoza, which they have perfected using the same recipe since their founding.
  • 👩‍🍳 Despite requests for variety, the restaurant sticks to one type of pan-fried gyoza, emphasizing quality and tradition.
  • 📜 The gyoza recipe has remained unchanged, making it unique and difficult for other restaurants to replicate.
  • 👨‍🍳 The dough is made from scratch using strong flour and sesame oil, with careful kneading and resting to achieve the right texture.
  • 🍖 The filling consists of Chinese cabbage and pork belly, selected for its rich flavor, and seasoned with salt, two types of pepper, ginger, and sesame oil.
  • 🍴 The gyoza is assembled by hand, a process that took the chef years to master through practice and muscle memory.
  • 🏠 The restaurant was originally started by the current owner's neighbor, and after the original owner wanted to close for health reasons, the current owner took over to preserve the 60-year-old recipe.
  • 🌍 Gyoza originated from Chinese dumplings called 'jiaozi,' and the restaurant's recipe is inspired by the traditional Northern Chinese style.
  • 🔥 The gyoza is pan-fried to achieve a crispy texture, with the sound and appearance guiding the chef on when it’s perfectly cooked.
  • 🌟 The restaurant received recognition from the Michelin Guide, distinguishing their gyoza as different from the typical Japanese version, with a rich, savory taste that leaves a lasting impression.

Q & A

  • What is the main dish highlighted in the restaurant?

    -The main dish highlighted is gyoza, specifically the grilled gyoza, which has been made using the same recipe since the restaurant’s founding.

  • Why does the restaurant insist on using the original recipe for their gyoza?

    -The restaurant insists on using the original recipe because it has a unique taste that other restaurants cannot replicate, and it maintains the legacy of the founder.

  • How many gyoza does the restaurant make daily?

    -The restaurant makes around 1,320 gyoza daily, which amounts to approximately 220 servings.

  • What kind of flour is used to make the gyoza dough?

    -The gyoza dough is made with strong flour (high-gluten flour) and a small amount of sesame oil to enhance the dough's texture.

  • What is the process for preparing the gyoza dough?

    -The dough is kneaded gradually with water, rested for 5 minutes, kneaded again, and then left to rest for around 30 minutes to achieve the right texture.

  • Why is napa cabbage used in the gyoza filling instead of cabbage?

    -Napa cabbage is used because it is a traditional ingredient in Chinese cuisine, and it makes up the core of the restaurant's recipe, unlike many other shops that use cabbage.

  • What ingredients are mixed into the pork belly for the gyoza filling?

    -The pork belly is mixed with salt, black and white pepper, grated ginger, and sesame oil, which gives the gyoza its distinctive flavor.

  • How does the restaurant handle the balance of flavors in the gyoza filling?

    -The filling is carefully mixed to ensure the even distribution of salt and spices, and the pork is rested for a day in the fridge before mixing with vegetables for maximum flavor.

  • How did the current owner come to run the restaurant?

    -The current owner took over the restaurant when the original owner, a neighbor, had to retire due to health reasons. The current owner wanted to preserve the 60-year-old legacy of the original recipe.

  • Why does the restaurant emphasize the use of hand-made dough and fillings?

    -The restaurant emphasizes hand-made dough and fillings because it allows them to adjust for variations in texture, humidity, and ingredient quality, ensuring the best result.

Outlines

00:00

🥟 Crafting Gyoza: Tradition and Dedication

The first paragraph focuses on the creation of the restaurant's signature dish—gyoza—emphasizing its tradition and the unique recipe that hasn't changed since the restaurant's founding. Despite customers often expecting more variety, the restaurant insists on making only one type of gyoza, which cannot be easily imitated by others. It highlights the dedication and effort involved, with around 1,320 pieces made daily. The dough is carefully prepared using strong flour and sesame oil, requiring years of practice to perfect the texture, ensuring it maintains its consistency and elasticity. The owner, originally in the construction business, took over the restaurant after the previous owner retired due to health reasons. He grew up loving the gyoza and now carries on its legacy with great passion.

05:03

🥬 Unique Ingredients and Their Benefits

This paragraph explains the unique ingredients used in the gyoza, especially focusing on napa cabbage (unlike most restaurants that use cabbage) and pork belly, which provides a delicious flavor due to its higher fat content. The use of chives is also highlighted, explaining their importance in masking the strong taste of pork and adding nutritional value. The preparation process is explained in detail, from chopping vegetables to mixing the pork and seasoning with simple yet essential ingredients like salt, black and white pepper, ginger, and sesame oil. The owner also talks about how the mixture is left to mature in the refrigerator overnight before adding the vegetables.

10:06

🍳 Mastering the Art of Gyoza Cooking

This paragraph dives into the cooking process of the gyoza, from the moment it is placed on the pan to the exact timing of cooking for six and a half minutes. The restaurant uses a technique of adding water at the beginning to create an even crust, giving the gyoza its signature crispy texture. The owner discusses how the sound of the water evaporating helps determine when the gyoza is ready, relying on experience rather than a timer. The paragraph also touches on how the 'gyoza wings' phenomenon (crispy edges) became popular about eight years ago, and how they have since embraced it to enhance the dining experience. Customers are encouraged to enjoy the gyoza without any dipping sauces initially to fully appreciate the flavors.

Mindmap

Keywords

💡Gyoza

Gyoza refers to the Japanese-style dumpling, which is the signature dish of the restaurant in the video. The video describes how the recipe for the gyoza has remained unchanged since the restaurant’s founding, emphasizing the commitment to tradition. Gyoza is central to the restaurant's identity, and the process of making it is carefully detailed, from the preparation of the dough to the cooking technique.

💡Dough

The dough for the gyoza is a critical element described in detail in the video. It is made from strong flour (強力粉) and is carefully kneaded and rested multiple times to achieve the desired texture, which is likened to the softness of an earlobe. The dough preparation is important in creating the perfect balance between elasticity and softness in the final product.

💡Handmade

The concept of handmade (手作り) is emphasized throughout the video, reflecting the meticulous, manual process of making gyoza from scratch. Every part of the gyoza, from the dough to the filling, is crafted by hand, highlighting the traditional, artisanal methods the restaurant uses, which sets it apart from mass-produced or machine-made alternatives.

💡Filling

The filling of the gyoza is a mixture of pork belly, Chinese cabbage, and various seasonings. The video explains that pork belly is used because its fat content adds flavor, and the filling is allowed to rest for a day before being mixed with vegetables. This resting period is important for the flavors to meld and develop.

💡Chinese Cabbage

Chinese cabbage (白菜) is one of the key ingredients in the gyoza filling. The video points out that unlike other gyoza shops, which primarily use regular cabbage, this restaurant uses Chinese cabbage to maintain the original recipe's flavor and texture. This decision underscores the commitment to tradition and the restaurant’s unique take on gyoza.

💡Kneading

Kneading (練る) refers to the process of working the dough to develop the desired texture. In the video, it is described that kneading is done several times with resting periods in between to achieve the right elasticity. The importance of experience and precision in kneading is highlighted, as an improperly kneaded dough could result in inferior gyoza.

💡Pan-frying

The gyoza is cooked using a pan-frying technique, where the dumplings are seared on one side to create a crispy texture. The video mentions the importance of timing and sound in cooking, as the chef uses auditory cues to determine when the gyoza is ready. This method ensures that the gyoza has a golden, crispy bottom while remaining soft on top.

💡Michelin Recognition

The restaurant's gyoza received recognition from the Michelin guide, which underscores the high quality of the food. This accolade is mentioned in the video to emphasize the restaurant’s dedication to excellence and the uniqueness of their gyoza compared to other establishments.

💡Tradition

Tradition is a recurring theme in the video, as the restaurant has preserved the original gyoza recipe for decades. The decision not to alter the recipe, even when faced with modern cooking trends or ingredients, showcases the owner’s respect for the legacy of the restaurant and its founder.

💡Construction Background

The owner of the restaurant originally worked in the construction industry and only took over the restaurant when the original owner decided to retire due to health reasons. This background in construction is mentioned to highlight the owner’s unlikely journey into the culinary world and his commitment to maintaining the restaurant's legacy despite not having formal training as a chef.

Highlights

The store's specialty is its signature gyoza, which has been made with the same recipe since the store's founding.

The gyoza recipe, including its dough and filling, has not changed over the years, ensuring consistency and uniqueness.

The store produces around 1,320 gyoza dumplings per day, showcasing their commitment to quality and quantity.

The dough is made using only strong flour, sesame oil, and water, which creates a chewy texture.

The dough needs to rest for about 5 minutes after kneading to prevent separation and to maintain its elasticity.

The dough is then allowed to rest for an additional 30 minutes, ensuring the right texture.

Each dough portion is hand-cut and rolled to ensure uniformity and the proper 'earlobe softness' texture.

The gyoza filling is primarily napa cabbage, which differs from other stores that mainly use cabbage.

Chives are added to the filling to reduce the pork’s odor and improve its flavor, adding a healthy, energizing element.

The pork used in the filling is pork belly, chosen for its flavorful fat content.

The seasoning includes only simple ingredients: salt, black pepper, white pepper, ginger, and sesame oil.

The filling is allowed to marinate for at least 24 hours in the fridge to enhance its flavor.

The gyoza wrapping technique uses the vegetable's natural moisture to seal the dumpling without needing extra water.

The store has added 'wings' (crispy edges) to the gyoza, which has become popular with customers over the last eight years.

The gyoza is best enjoyed without any condiments at first, allowing customers to savor its natural flavor.

Transcripts

play00:04

当店の看板所にはまず餃子です

play00:08

結構皆さんいろんな長くないのと言われる

play00:10

んですけども

play00:11

焼き餃子これ1つだけなんですねこだわっ

play00:14

てるのがですね

play00:15

創業当時からの

play00:16

レシピを変えてないというところですね

play00:20

でこれがその他の店が

play00:23

真似しようとしてもできないところがまた

play00:25

一番いいところだと思います

play00:27

約220人前

play00:30

毎日なんでかける6ですね1320個

play00:33

ぐらいを毎日で作っております

play00:36

これに

play00:37

全てをかけてるって言うんですかね

play00:39

動けなくなるまでは一生懸命やろうとなと

play00:41

思います

play00:45

[音楽]

play00:57

その川はですねあの

play00:58

強力粉というものだけです

play01:01

ごま油を入れます

play01:05

次ネットです

play01:07

でいっぺんに入れないで

play01:10

少しずつ入れていきます

play01:13

滑らかさとかですねそういうの出すときに

play01:16

play01:16

薄力粉とか使いますだいたい良くなったら

play01:19

今度ここで

play01:20

寝ると5分ぐらい寝る

play01:23

[音楽]

play01:31

慣れてない人がやるとこの後その分離し

play01:34

ちゃうんです分離ってあのこのは水分吸わ

play01:37

ないところ

play01:38

出てきますですからそこはやっぱりまあ何

play01:42

年もやって

play01:44

モチモチ感を出すためには

play01:46

どうしても

play01:47

寝かす

play01:49

腰まで出るということですね

play01:51

寝かせないとですねこれポンとこうすぐ

play01:53

切れてしまうよね

play01:56

5分寝かすんですけども

play02:01

そしてまたまた練りこんでって形をやって

play02:04

ます

play02:08

今度は30分ぐらい

play02:11

置いてやってます

play02:15

川からですね

play02:16

すべてがもう1から

play02:18

手だけでやってます

play02:19

手作りってことをですねその

play02:21

硬い柔らかい

play02:23

湿気がするとか吸わないそれになりを

play02:26

ずっとこう考慮しながらですねやってると

play02:28

今これは

play02:30

練ったやつをですね

play02:31

棒状にするためにだいたい均等に切って

play02:34

いるところです

play02:37

これが今よく昔から言われてる耳たぶの

play02:41

柔らかさになってると思います

play02:46

そうですねもうその棒状になってものを約

play02:50

80グラム近くで

play02:52

全てがもう頭で考えるんでなくて手がそれ

play02:55

を全てを

play02:57

把握してるっていうのも経験っていうかね

play02:59

それになる

play03:03

家業が建築業なもんですからこういうお店

play03:06

を作ったりで

play03:07

50歳ぐらいまでは

play03:09

ずっと建築業をやっておりましたで私ども

play03:11

はこの店を建築してた人間なんですが

play03:14

平成17年に

play03:16

オーナーがこの店をもう閉店すると健康上

play03:19

の理由で

play03:21

創業者と私どもは家が近所でそれでこの

play03:24

あの

play03:25

昔からの味が

play03:27

自分の中で美味しいと思ってたんですが

play03:29

60年近いこの歴史がありますんでそれで

play03:32

は創業者の方も寂しいだろうとで私も元々

play03:36

料理もそんなに嫌いな方ではないし小さい

play03:39

頃からこれを食べておりましたんでそれ

play03:42

だったらじゃあ少しずつやってってみよう

play03:44

かとそれでは私の方で

play03:46

引き継いでやりましょうというのがことの

play03:48

初めです

play03:52

これはあの通常の市場の大田市場からやっ

play03:56

てます

play03:57

他の店はどうしてもキャベツが主流ですね

play04:00

白菜だけでやってるの多分2割ぐらいしか

play04:03

ないんじゃないでしょうかはいこれから

play04:06

白菜を茹でようと思います

play04:09

中国から入ったってことで中国で取れる

play04:12

野菜それがまず白菜ですね

play04:15

要は家庭料理の中で

play04:17

培ったものそれが主になってますね

play04:22

これは1

play04:24

回冷やします

play04:27

硬いのはあのこまめに

play04:30

先に

play04:31

切っちゃう

play04:37

今使ってるのは中華包丁のですねまああの

play04:41

叩く普通の調理用じゃなくてですねあの

play04:45

ざっくり切るような

play04:46

あまりいい包丁ではないんですよね私専門

play04:49

のやつで重さで

play04:52

切るんじゃなくて叩いて

play04:56

ニラというのはあのまあ昔からのある野菜

play04:59

なんですけどもここにあの

play05:02

苦味というですかねそれが若干あるんです

play05:04

けどもそれをまあゆっくり

play05:07

切るようにしていきます

play05:10

ニラというのはやっぱりあの

play05:12

豚肉の

play05:13

臭みみたいなものですね

play05:15

抑える役目とそれからとても

play05:18

事業競争に

play05:19

良いという

play05:20

感じのですねお野菜だと思います

play05:23

夏場の野菜らしいんですねこれをしっかり

play05:26

食べることによって

play05:27

元気になるということですね

play05:32

これが

play05:34

家で使ってる

play05:35

豚バラのひき肉です豚バラはあの油が

play05:38

美味しいもんですからなるべくそれを多め

play05:41

のやつを

play05:41

仕入れています

play05:43

これから

play05:45

調味料を混ぜていきますまず

play05:47

塩です

play05:49

旨味を見るようです

play05:51

で胡椒は2種類で

play05:53

黒胡椒

play05:55

白胡椒

play05:57

吊り生姜

play06:00

ごま油ですねこういう口のごま油を

play06:05

多めに入れてきますこれだけの

play06:08

シンプルなものだけで

play06:10

味付けして仕上げていきます

play06:12

ごま油をしっかり練りこんでやってますん

play06:15

play06:16

うちは風味が違うんですね

play06:18

混ぜるときにですねまず塩とかですね

play06:21

偏らないようにするってのがまず大事な

play06:23

ことなんですこの手の平にですねこの

play06:26

つぶつぶ感がなくなるまでそれがまあ一応

play06:31

基本でこれはもうそういう当時から中国の

play06:35

方ではこの豚バラで作ってたんで

play06:39

搭乗者の方がもですねこれは買えるもん

play06:42

じゃないとOKの味が元

play06:45

基本が崩れてしまうんで

play06:47

変えないでやってます

play06:48

海外のもの使ったりしてやってみたんです

play06:51

けどどうしてもダメですね

play06:55

ですぐ野菜を混ぜるんじゃなくてそれも

play06:58

やっぱりあの約1日

play07:01

冷蔵庫で熟成させてで次の日に野菜とあの

play07:05

混ぜるんです

play07:12

餃子というのはもともと日本にはなくて

play07:14

ですね中国の北東部の方で

play07:18

茶オズというですねそういう案を包んで今

play07:22

の形でなくてもう少しこう丸っぽい形の

play07:24

ものがまあ

play07:26

発症だとその餃子がまあそういう私どもの

play07:29

創業者が向こうにおりましてそれを一緒に

play07:32

食べて美味しいということで

play07:34

抽選になってですね日本に引き上げてきた

play07:37

とじゃあそこで餃子というものをちょっと

play07:40

やってみようかということで今の店になっ

play07:42

たってことなんです

play07:45

これはあの

play07:46

普通はあの本日ですね

play07:48

水でこういう風にやると

play07:49

くっつきやすいんでいいんですけども私

play07:52

どもはまあ一応

play07:54

プロと言うんじゃないですけどもこの野菜

play07:56

とのですね

play07:57

[音楽]

play07:59

こう閉じるときにこの野菜の

play08:02

水分を使って

play08:04

閉じるんです

play08:08

ですから今これ住んでるのは24時間以上

play08:11

経った案を進んでますその間に

play08:14

熟成が進んで

play08:16

美味しい

play08:17

杏に仕上がっています

play08:19

最初はまず包むことの

play08:22

作業から始めましてそれが約2年

play08:26

ぐらいでやっと人並みみたいな感じになり

play08:29

ました

play08:31

ましてあまり器用な方じゃないんで最初は

play08:33

あの

play08:35

素人さんと同じでこういっぱい入れちゃう

play08:36

play08:37

[音楽]

play08:40

そうするともうどうにもならなくなって

play08:42

溢れちゃう

play08:43

それじゃダメだっていうふうに教わって

play08:47

でこれを1年2年とやっていくうちに自然

play08:50

にこのまあこの私ですと左手がそのグラム

play08:54

play08:55

感知するというんですかねこれでいいよと

play08:57

いうのが教えてくれるんですね

play09:01

この店を始めた時には何か物足らないと

play09:05

いうことがすごく感じておりまして

play09:07

自分で餃子を作り焼いている中でですね

play09:10

少しずつ少しずつあのどうしたらもっと

play09:14

美味しくなるのかなそういうのも毎日毎日

play09:16

こう繰り返してでいろんな試行錯誤を

play09:19

とにかく繰り返していくそれでここをそう

play09:22

ですね56年

play09:24

ぐらいにやっと自分でも

play09:27

納得できる

play09:28

餃子ができたということが本音ですね

play09:34

[音楽]

play09:38

今は焼くための下準備ですね

play09:41

鍋の時間が経ってたんで

play09:43

油を引いてこの皮と同じ素材のものを

play09:48

入れて

play09:49

混ぜるとね

play09:57

入れていきます

play10:06

このぐらいになったら

play10:09

蓋をしても

play10:12

これで

play10:13

6分半ぐらいなんで私のはその最初にお湯

play10:17

を張ることによって

play10:19

焼き目がしっかりいる鉄板にですね均等な

play10:21

麺を作るんですそうすると焼き上がった時

play10:23

にそのあの

play10:26

狐によるですねそういう感じが出来上がっ

play10:28

play10:29

綺麗っていうとねあのお客様も見た目の

play10:33

あれも大事ですからそれをやっております

play10:35

けど

play10:37

この焼けてるその

play10:40

水がなくなってきたその音の

play10:43

強弱ですねそれを判断しながら

play10:46

経験でこんなもんかっていうのは

play10:48

わかってきてます

play10:50

時計を見なくてもだいたいそれで

play10:57

日本でその

play10:59

羽がブームになったのがですね

play11:01

8年とかそのぐらい前で元々私どもに羽が

play11:04

なかったんですねただ自然についてお客

play11:07

さんが喜ばれるんでじゃあ

play11:10

作りましょうということで取りますパリッ

play11:13

とした感じがとても喜ばれます

play11:16

食べる時にまず焼き上がってそれを何も

play11:20

まずつけないで

play11:21

召し上がっていただくこれがまあ一番いい

play11:24

かなその後に自分でお好みの量の

play11:27

調味料を入れてもらえればいいと思います

play11:29

[音楽]

play11:33

ミシュランがの方ですねあの

play11:35

評価していただいてあのまず餃子日本の方

play11:39

だとですねちっちゃい頃から

play11:41

食べて

play11:42

取れるからそのみんなの頭の中での餃子と

play11:45

当店の餃子ってのはまたちょっと違うもの

play11:49

があるということですね

play11:51

美味しいっていうのが口の奥の方で広がる

play11:53

とかそういうものは特徴だと思いますそれ

play11:56

でお客様が来てですねその食べてあ

play11:59

なるほどと思っていただくのはまあ一番

play12:02

嬉しくてですねこのまあその創業者のです

play12:05

play12:06

気持ちをずっと

play12:08

続けていきたいとそれだけがまあ今私の中

play12:11

で一番の信念でやっております

play12:14

[音楽]

play12:24

[音楽]

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Related Tags
GyozaJapanese cuisineTraditional recipeHandmade foodFresh ingredientsFood historyAuthentic flavorsFamily businessCooking techniquesMichelin recognition