EVERY MAINTENANCE ITEM: Mercury/Tohatsu 4HP/5HP/6HP 4-Stroke Outboard
Summary
TLDRThe video script documents a DIY enthusiast's detailed process of maintaining a 2018 Mercury six horsepower four-stroke outboard motor. The individual shares their experience of performing various maintenance tasks, including an oil change, spark plug replacement, water impeller replacement, carburetor disassembly and cleaning, and lower end unit gear oil change. The script emphasizes learning and improvement, inviting viewers to contribute their insights and suggestions for better maintenance practices.
Takeaways
- 🧰 Basic maintenance on a 2018 Mercury 6 HP four-stroke engine includes oil changes, spark plug replacement, and water impeller replacement.
- 🛠️ For oil changes, use marine-grade 4-cycle 10W-30 oil and drain the old oil into a bucket, checking for metal shavings or contamination.
- 🔧 Replace the spark plug with a compatible E36 and tighten it to the recommended torque, even without a torque wrench.
- 💧 Change the water impeller annually to ensure proper cooling and prevent engine damage from lack of cooling water circulation.
- 🔄 Inspect the drive shaft and impeller housing for wear and ensure the impeller is correctly installed and keyed to the drive shaft.
- 🚫 Avoid changing gears while the lower end unit is detached to maintain proper alignment and prevent damage.
- 🛠️ Perform a carburetor disassembly and cleaning to address starting issues and improve engine performance.
- 🌊 Check the propeller for wear and clean the edges with a file to improve efficiency and prevent cavitation.
- 🔩 Reinstalling the lower end unit involves aligning the drive shaft, securing the water pump housing, and ensuring all connections are leak-free.
- 💰 Consider investing in a rebuild kit for the carburetor, which includes new gaskets and jets for a more thorough maintenance.
- 🚀 After completing maintenance, the engine should start more easily and run smoother, with improved performance and fuel efficiency.
Q & A
What is the main purpose of the video?
-The main purpose of the video is to document and share the process of maintaining a 2018 Mercury six horsepower four stroke engine, including a carburetor disassembly and cleaning. The video aims to be a learning experience for both the creator and the viewers, and encourages comments with tips and advice for better maintenance practices.
How often should the oil be changed in the Mercury engine?
-The oil should be changed every 100 hours of use, or at least once a season if the engine doesn't reach 100 hours.
What type and amount of oil is recommended for the 4, 5, and 6 horsepower Mercury and Tohatsu motors?
-Marine grade 4-stroke 10W-30 oil is recommended for these engines, and they all take 15 ounces of oil.
What is the significance of sampling the used oil during a drain?
-Sampling the used oil allows the observer to check for sediment, metal shavings, or any contamination that may have settled at the bottom of the oil, which can indicate potential issues or wear within the engine.
How often should the water impeller be changed in the engine?
-It is recommended to change the water impeller every year. This helps ensure that the engine has proper cooling and prevents potential damage from running without cooling water circulation.
What is the role of the key in the impeller assembly?
-The key fits into the impeller and locks it to the drive shaft, ensuring that the impeller spins and pumps water through the engine for cooling. Without the key, the impeller would not spin and the engine could be damaged due to lack of cooling.
What is the correct procedure for reinstalling the carburetor after cleaning?
-After cleaning, the carburetor should be reassembled with the jets and gaskets in their correct positions, ensuring that the bowl is oriented correctly. The choke and throttle linkages should be reattached, and the carburetor should be bolted back onto the engine, making sure all vacuum and fuel lines are correctly reconnected.
How did the speaker address the issue of the prop not turning when attempting to start the engine?
-The speaker realized that the shift linkage was out of position due to changing gears inadvertently while the lower end unit was decoupled. They fixed the issue by adjusting the coupling to ensure neutral was correctly aligned on both the motor side and the lower end unit.
What were the results after completing the maintenance activities?
-After completing the maintenance activities, the engine started on the third pull when it was cold, and on the first pull once it was warmed up. The speaker noted an improvement in performance, particularly after filing the prop edge, and no longer experienced cavitation issues at full RPM.
What is the speaker's advice for future maintenance?
-The speaker suggests investing in a pump for filling the lower end unit oil to avoid air pockets and ensure proper filling. They also recommend doing maintenance activities before winter storage and paying attention to details like the orientation of the carburetor bowl and the positioning of the key in the impeller.
Outlines
🔧 Introduction to Mercury 6HP Outboard Motor Maintenance
The video begins with the presenter sharing their experience with a 2018 Mercury 6HP four-stroke outboard motor, which has been used for about 100 hours over the year. They plan to undertake comprehensive maintenance, including all tasks listed in the manual plus additional steps like carburetor disassembly and cleaning. Despite not being a professional mechanic, the presenter emphasizes learning and sharing tips and tricks for better motor maintenance. The tutorial is meant to be interactive, inviting viewers to suggest improvements and share their own insights, thus creating a learning platform for everyone involved.
🛠️ Detailed Guide to Oil Change and Spark Plug Replacement
This section walks through the essential maintenance tasks starting with an oil change, a routine task recommended every 100 hours or at least once a season. The presenter demonstrates how to drain the old oil and refill with marine-grade 4-cycle 10W30 oil, highlighting the importance of checking for metal shavings or contaminants in the drained oil. Following the oil change, the focus shifts to replacing the spark plug, detailing the removal of the old plug and installation of a new one, even without a torque wrench, emphasizing the proper tightening technique to avoid over-tightening.
🌊 Water Impeller Replacement Process
The presenter explains the importance of replacing the water impeller annually as a preventive measure to avoid overheating the motor. The step-by-step guide covers the removal of the lower unit of the outboard motor to access the impeller, located above the lower unit. The process involves disconnecting the shift linkage, removing the impeller housing, and installing a new impeller, ensuring it's oriented correctly to match the rotation of the motor. The presenter also shares a personal mistake made with the impeller key, emphasizing the importance of securing this small but crucial component.
🔩 Propeller and Lower End Unit Inspection
In this segment, the presenter delves into inspecting and maintaining the propeller and the lower end unit of the motor. The process includes removing the propeller to inspect the spline gear for wear and applying anti-seize lubricant for protection. The presenter also demonstrates how to file down any nicks or burrs on the propeller to ensure smooth operation. The importance of maintaining the upper spline on the drive shaft and the significance of applying anti-seize lubricant for future maintenance ease are also discussed.
⚙️ Carburetor Removal, Cleaning, and Reassembly
Facing issues with cold starting, the presenter decides to tackle the carburetor by removing, disassembling, and thoroughly cleaning it. This section is filled with detailed steps, including detaching the gas line, throttle linkage, and various hoses before accessing the carburetor. Key components like the idle and main jets are cleaned with carburetor cleaner. The reassembly process is carefully documented, highlighting the placement of gaskets and the reconnection of lines and linkages, ensuring everything is back in place for optimal engine performance.
🔄 Gear Oil Change and Final Greasing
This part focuses on changing the gear oil in the lower end unit, a critical task recommended every 100 hours or annually before winter storage. The presenter illustrates the procedure for draining the old oil and refilling with new gear oil, ensuring all air pockets are expelled for proper lubrication. The segment concludes with applying grease to various components such as the swivel fittings, transom clamp screws, and shift pivot points to ensure smooth operation and prevent corrosion.
🛠️ Troubleshooting and Final Tests
After completing all maintenance tasks, the presenter encounters a problem with the propeller spinning while pulling the start cord, indicating a misalignment in the shift linkage. The issue is resolved by adjusting the coupling to match the gear positions. The motor is then tested in a bucket, and despite initial difficulties, it starts and runs well, showcasing improved performance. The presenter concludes by testing the motor on the water, noting significant improvements in speed and cavitation issues, attributing success to the maintenance performed, especially the spark plug replacement and propeller filing.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Maintenance
💡Mercury Engine
💡Oil Change
💡Spark Plug
💡Carburetor
💡Water Impeller
💡Lower End Unit
💡Propeller
💡Fuel Filter
💡Gear Oil
💡Shift Linkage
Highlights
The speaker has been using the Mercury 6 horsepower four-stroke engine for a year and has reached about 100 hours of use, indicating it's time for maintenance.
The maintenance process includes following the manual's instructions and additional tasks such as carburetor removal, disassembly, and cleaning.
The speaker clarifies that they are not a mechanic and this is not an expert tutorial, but rather a learning experience for themselves and the audience.
The engine in question is also similar to a Tohatsu, meaning the maintenance activities and procedures are the same for both brands.
The basic oil change is a crucial routine to perform every 100 hours or once a season if the 100-hour mark is not reached.
For 4, 5, and 6 horsepower Mercury and Tohatsu engines, 15 ounces of marine-grade 4-cycle 10W-30 oil is required.
The speaker emphasizes the importance of checking the used oil for sediment, metal shavings, or any contamination before disposing of it.
When replacing the spark plug, the speaker uses an E36 spark plug and notes the importance of tightening it to the correct torque.
Changing the water impeller every year is recommended to prevent engine damage from lack of cooling water circulation.
The speaker shares a critical lesson about the importance of the impeller key, which locks the impeller to the drive shaft, and the consequences of losing it.
The process of reassembling the lower end unit is detailed, including the need to align the drive shaft and ensure the water intake seats properly.
The fuel filter is changed as part of regular maintenance, with the speaker noting the importance of the flow direction indicator.
The carburetor is removed and cleaned to address starting issues, with the speaker using carb cleaner and ensuring all parts are reassembled correctly.
The speaker discusses the importance of changing the lower end unit gear oil every 100 hours and provides a step-by-step guide on how to do it correctly.
After reassembling and refilling all components, the speaker successfully starts the engine, noting improvements in performance and a smoother operation.
The speaker shares a tip about using a pump when refilling the lower end unit gear oil to avoid air pockets and ensure proper lubrication.
The importance of not changing gears during the maintenance process is emphasized to avoid misalignment of the shift linkage.
The speaker concludes the maintenance session by lubricating various fittings and ensuring all components are in their proper positions.
Transcripts
i've had this guy for about a year it's
got about 100 hours on it
it's time to do some maintenance it's a
2018
mercury six horsepower four stroke and
i'm going to do
every maintenance activity in the manual
plus
a carb removal disassembly and cleaning
it's going to be fun
disclaimer i am not a mechanic this is
not an
expert tutorial this is more of a
conversation if i do anything wrong
leave a comment if there's a better way
if there's a trick a hack
to do something better leave a comment
this video is for me to learn for you
guys to learn
and for us to find the best way to take
care of a motor like this
this motor is also the same as a tahatsu
so all these activities are exactly the
same for a tahatsu motor
and these maintenance items are the same
for the four five and six horsepower
mercury and tahatsu's
let's hit the garage and do some
maintenance basic oil change do it every
100 hours
do it once a season if you don't hit 100
hours marine grade 4
cycle 10 w 30 oil 3
4 5 and 6 horsepower all take
15 ounces so i've got a really basic
measuring can here
here yellow cap is the oil
fill cap so i'm going to go ahead
take that guy off on the pull start side
on the bottom of the motor relative to
the handle
you can see drain plug there we're going
to pull that drain
plug off let it drain out the drain plug
is a 10
millimeter hex head so grab yourself a
10 millimeter
socket and take it off
we're gonna crack it and drain the used
and
oil into a bucket and
one thing i like to do is the first bit
that comes out i like to sample
because that's where you're going to
have a lot of sediment just to see if
there's any
any metal shavings um or any
contamination in there that's settled
down to the bottom
we'll give this a little crack get the
bucket under there
once it's loose enough to loosen it
there it goes don't lose a drain plug
it looks pretty looks pretty good
no metal shavings all right it looks
like it's about done draining a couple
drips once i take a sample look for
metal shavings i also like to give it a
little smell just to make sure there's
no gas
i'm also looking for any water standing
on top
any discoloration i always like to put a
little bit of the threshold in
now we've pushed some of that old oil
out
now it's time to put the drain plug back
in put a little bit
put a little bit on my finger i'm going
to make sure
the drain plug is lubricated
and has a good seal with that oil
it's thumb tightened down now we'll
tighten it the rest of the way
you don't want to give it too much force
so you'll strip it it's definitely not
something you want to do so i usually
i don't know how many newton meters it
recommends but
give it a snug it in now it's time to
fill it back up with the oil
snug it down
and let's check the fill level
if you can see it
it's kind of clear but it's dead on
that is it
spark plug replacement here's spark plug
here's plug cable
it is on the tiller side of the motor
opposite
of the gas can first thing we're going
to do
pop that plug cable off
there she is this spark plug take a
spark plug socket
or a 5 8 wrench
she is
looks pretty good here's the new one
this is a e36 i'll post a picture of all
of the compatible spark plugs
now i'm just going to thread it right
back in
all right once you get it thumb tight
kind of jiggle a little
bit get any slop out of it so you cannot
tighten it anymore and then this guy is
supposed to be tightened down to
20 foot-pounds of torque i don't have a
torque wrench
my fingers are my torque wrench
let's see where we're at right here
we're about 18 foot pounds
all right 20 foot pound i'm just kidding
i have no idea how many foot pounds that
is but
what you can do is it says to thumb
tighten or finger tighten down
give it an extra quarter turn once your
finger tighten down
and then that should be pretty close to
20 foot pounds plug cable back on
that is it all right now let's change
the
water impeller it's good to change this
every year cheap insurance
they'll probably last a good two to
three years but
quickest way to blow out your motor is
to run it without
cooling water cycling through the engine
i
always change out the impeller once a
year
impeller is located right above lower
end unit
right in here water comes in water
inlet which is here
floods the water impeller the water
impeller is attached to the drive shaft
it's circuit it's uh pushing water
circulating water
up through the water pipe here into your
engine it's circulating
through the engine and then it is coming
out your tail tail
here first step is you got to remove
this cover here this cover is
is over a port where the
your shift linkage is attached to
your lower end unit so you take that
rubber cover off
this guy it's going to give you access
to
your shift linkage and then what you're
going to want to do
is put it in
put in reverse and then you can see
that hex head here and what that hex
head is doing is it's connecting
shift linkage to your lower end unit
and this guy's got to come off because
we're going to pull the lower
end unit off in order to get to the
impeller 10 millimeter socket
just want to loosen it you don't want to
take it all the way out or to fall out
so that guy's loose now and you don't
want to change gears once you get that
loose you're going to be out of position
we can take the lower lower end unit off
there are two bolts under there
that one and then one on the back
that one that's holding the lower end
unit off so we're going to take those
guys off now
13 millimeter socket
10 millimeter for the back
there you got it lower end unit is out
here's a drive shaft
here is the impeller housing
here here is your shift linkage
that's what was attached that we
loosened
and then once again here's your drive
shaft
pretty cool
here is inlet
for the water here
here's the tube that goes from the inlet
to the impeller housing or your pump
housing there
there's a tube that sits right down in
there i'll show you here in a second
when the water gets pushed up that into
your motor there's the tube right there
that sits down in the
water pump you got to take these four
bolts off to get to the
impeller 10 millimeter socket
boob comes out of this seat this whole
housing
pops off and then it'll slide
up the drive shaft
key thing whenever you get this off
always note which way it's turning if
you can see
see how it looks from this point it's
turning clockwise you can see the veins
are bent
in the counterclockwise position you've
got to put the new impeller in that same
exact way
new impeller
all right let's stop here full
disclosure
this guy this guy
almost made me have
a really
bad day this little thing here is a key
that fits
in the impeller there's a little slot
right there at the top where that key
sits in and basically locks it to the
drive shaft
the drive shaft is what spins this
without this key the drive shaft's going
to spin this
is not going to spin and push any water
so
this guy fell out after i was done in
reinstalling the new impeller in
the outboard so i'm going to have to
tear it back down
and make sure that this guy's in the
proper place make sure when you're doing
this you do not lose this little key
my new impeller did not come with one
i'm just lucky that i found it
when i saw it on the floor this could
have ruined
this outboard if i took it out in the
water but without this key eventually
the impeller would have wore out in the
center
lost friction with the drive shaft and
stopped pumping water so this could have
ruined this outboard here is the
new impeller
on the drive shaft
there is a flat you can see it right
there there's a flat
machined surface at the bottom of the
drive shaft that engages with the key
that goes and slide inside the impeller
slot there's a keyway in the impeller
key goes in there and engages with that
flat surface
the trick to get that key in
is to put a little bit of grease
at the bottom of the drive shaft so the
key sticks to that flat surface
and then slide the impeller down
on the key that is the easiest way
that i've found to do it and i found
this off of a youtube channel and i'll
link his
channel in the show notes below so i'm
going to put a little bit
just a little tiny bit of grease down at
the very bottom
to hold the key in place
that is locked in it's a little bit
tricky but
once you get it give it a couple tries
now it's locked in there's a little bit
of play
there's a little bit of play in it but
that's all right it's meant to do that
as long as you can't spin that all the
way around you're okay
so the next step is to put the housing
down
over the impeller
it's a little bit hard because this
impeller is oversized
compared to the diameter of the housing
so a trick
is to put some dishwashing detergent on
it give it some lubrication
some people use machine guru some people
use marine
grade grease that is meant for rubber
and plastic
that's always a good idea make sure
there's no crud on there make sure the
seal is
clean then the
housing slides
on the drive shaft
once again the water in lit is going to
seat in that hole right there
remember the direction of the veins of
the impeller it's got to go the same way
so when looking at the drive shaft from
the motor side it rotates
clockwise so you're going to rotate it
clockwise while pushing down on the
housing
to get it to seat down
make sure this water inlet seats down in
the
hole here
just like that
that's seated down good
all right so we're good we got the motor
housing back on impeller is going
in the right direction the key's in
there remember the
drive shaft rotates counterclockwise
when looking at it from the motor
from the top or the motor side
everything looks like it's good water
intake is seated in there
now it's time to tighten it back down
while we get this guy off
i'm going to pull the prop
inspect the spine gear on the prop
while we have this guy off the lower end
unit
i'm going to go ahead and inspect
the upper spline on the drive shaft
everything looks good put some
anti-seize on it
all right while we have this guy off
also i'm going to take the prop off
straighten that cotter pin out
there got it
now 17 millimeter socket
[Music]
comes right off
you got nut don't lose it
under the nut there is a washer
then comes all the way off
don't forget which side goes which
this blind side goes towards the lower
end unit
thing looks pretty good no stripped
um
i don't know if you can see in there
probably not
there's some some wear going on
definitely work some of those gears down
a little bit
inspect this portion here
this looks really good
anti-seize
put some anti-seize on this spine gear
here
prop it's beat up pretty bad
some pretty good nicks
i'm actually going to take a file clean
this up from the back
side
start with the coarse side of the file
get a lot of those burrs out
you want a pretty sharp edge any kind of
burrs
nicks can cut through the water as well
and you can get some
cavitation give you a disclaimer i don't
know if this is good for the prop or not
so
do your research but
i have seen people do it and it makes
sense
to me
it actually looks
it actually looks a lot better all right
let's get this guy back on
all right spline side towards the lower
end unit washer
nuts so here's the tricky part getting
this to line
up
all right tighten this down
now the fun part
is finding oh
see that's what the hole is covered up
where the cotter pin is supposed to go
so i tied it too much
ah too much this is what i don't
understand
am i supposed to tighten it all the way
because if i do
i miss the hole
there's not enough room to get in there
there
finally got it finally got it in there
now just bend this guy back up
all right should be all there is to it
now i'm going to reinstall the lower end
unit back to the motor
so it looks like underneath this side
right here
is the coupling for your shift lever
that hole in the middle that's where the
drive shaft's gonna go
that pipe right there
right there is what's going to seat
on your water pump
right there
those have to mate up that has to mate
with the water pipe
this has to go up through that center
hole this has to go through
the coupling to attach back the shift
lever
now we'll just putting the two bolts
that attach the lower end unit
now the only thing left to do is tighten
up the coupling that attaches the shift
lever to the lower end unit it's again
10 millimeter
let's get snug now when i shift
you should see that move
there it goes
all right we got the lower end unit back
on
it is a bit tricky getting the drive
shaft to go up there there's like a pipe
up at the top the drive shaft's got to
go through the
shift linkage that goes down into the
lower end unit
has to go through that coupling and then
also it has to go through this hole here
right
there
[Music]
so you've got to hit the
coupling there's a hole in the coupling
you got to hit that you got to go
through that hole and the drive shaft's
got to go through that tube
up in the middle that guides it into the
motor and then
also there is a water pipe that's got a
seat
into your water pump housing so once you
get all that lined up
bolted in should be good to go make sure
you do not change gears after you detach
the lower end and take that coupling off
make sure you don't change gears because
you're going to be out of position and
it's going to cause you some problems
you're in forward if you change gears
your forward position here on your lever
is going to be neutral potentially if
you change gears
either by pushing the linkage
rod into the lower end unit that changes
gears for your lower end unit or
accidentally pushing your shift lever
here
is going to get you out of position got
it back together we'll move on to the
next one
is the fuel filter
two clamp fittings
super easy make sure your gas is drained
run it dry remove those clamp fittings
take the filter off put anyone on
once you get them out you can pull the
fuel filter rod off
sometimes you gotta break it loose a
little bit like that
bam just like that
all right put the new one on look at the
flow look for the flow marker
flow towards carburetor
away from the gas tank
put your lines back
move the on fittings back down
[Applause]
that is it
now carb removal
tear down and cleaning this has to be a
little bit scared
and it just looks complicated
afraid i'm gonna mess something up but
i've been having some issues with coal
starting so i think taking that carb
apart and cleaning it is gonna help me
out a tremendous amount
so let's jump into it and figure this
out here's the carb
i'm thinking these two bolts
are what is primarily holding this
scarve on so what i'm going to do is
pull this line gas
line there's a compression fitting here
i'm going to take that compression
fitting
off and then i'm going to take these
bolts out this should slide off when i
remove
the throttle linkage here's the throttle
linkage where it
attaches pull that that bolt off
that bolt off take
airline off take the airline off here
and this should then this should
come right off let's let's start tearing
it down and see
it's going to be an adventure but it's
okay first thing gas line
all right gas line is off
there's a vacuum tube or something right
there that's
overflow flood ah
okay so when it floods i think this
directs
the gas out versus into the motor
so honestly that can stay on right now
because this
it's not really attached to anything
it's just sticking out the bottom of the
motor
how does that come off i think it pops
right out
oh man all right there's the throttle
linkage
it was attached to right in that slot
right there
as you can see that moves
with the throttle so the best thing i
found
give it about half throttle it'll make
it perpendicular and you can push it
right through
all right so we've got the
airline fuel line airline off we've got
the throttle linkage off
we've got this vacuum or this tube here
that i think's for flood overflow now
i'm just gonna get these bolts off
two bolts that's all i see
one
to
be careful there are bushings
in there that come out
this is the little breather box
where the airline attaches
here's the choke
there's choke throttle
haha there's the that's what i was
missing
take it leave this in there until you
get the carb off and then you can just
turn it and it comes right out
these tubes
oh my goodness got it
watch that
little gasket there all right
here's the carb
choke throttle
see it's auto valve in there
bull drain there's a screw under that
cap for your
fuel air mixture i think that is the
idle jet is in there that's what i'm
really
interested in is that guys i'm having a
hard time call starting
let's get this let's get these screws
out get the bowl off and we'll get some
carb cleaner in here
there's the main jet with these jets
because they're brass
and they will strip out if you don't
have the right size
phillip head
there we go
that's the plug
all right let's get this other one off
here's the idle jet
all right so now i'm going to soak this
guy
in some carb cleaner just let it soak
and then spray it again
oh
let that sit in that bowl those two jets
and take this outside and just spray
everything down as best i can
be back right and spraying it
make sure you get in
that idle jet port right there
it'll blow back up through the main jet
and through the throttle
chamber so everything's sprayed down
really good i'm gonna let it sit
overnight
and then come back tomorrow put it back
together and see how she runs
the jets they soaked overnight
i sprayed out the carb again and cleaned
out the bowl again with carb cleaner
ready to put this guy back on
so wish me luck all right first going to
put the jets back on
the longer ones the idle jet
goes in that port right there
you just want to snug these down they're
brass so they will strip out
easy on you you get snug in there
now your main jet
inside the bowl
just snug it down
in that main port
now it's time for the bowl
watch the gasket sometimes it'll come
out on you
make sure there's no dirt or
contamination around that gasket
if you get a rebuild kit you get a new
gasket with it's always a good idea
spend a little extra money get a rebuild
kit
all right you also want to be careful
there's another gasket
on the outlet side of the carb
this plastic gasket here this plastic
spacer slash gasket
goes there we've got three gaskets on
the outlet side that you got to be
careful you got
got a gasket on the outlet of the carb
and then you got a gasket on the motor
side and then that plastic spacer so
don't lose any three of those
at this little breather box
remember this little breather box goes
on
the inlet side of the carb these two
bolts go through here
you got brass bushings that are loose in
that little box
those will fall out and you will lose
those so be careful there
get the bolts in through there get the
bolts through your carb
so now the carb is ready to fit back in
place
first and attach the choke
linkage because it's easier to go in
then down done
choke linkage
now i can put the plastic spacer on
and then now line up the holes and i can
screw it in
drain slash vacuum tubes whatever they
are
make sure they get routed back down
out the bottom
they literally come out the bottom of
the motor
now gas line hook the gas line back into
the
inlet of the carb
so
airlines secure the air intake
line check the choke
that looks really good
throttle linkage i almost forgot about
that guy
give it half to have throttle that'll
position everything
we'll go into the carb side first
oh i forgot which way this goes i should
have took a picture
got it on video i don't want to go back
and try to find in the video
let me figure it out all right so looks
like
this side is going to go
in the carb
add it
all right so there
this is what it looks like with that
linkage on i was having a problem
getting it
seated there you definitely want to put
it in
carb side first
that throttle valve there and then you
can kind of
semi-force it in that channel
that's controlled by your tiller handle
i think you can take that hex head off
make it a little bit easier but i was
able to get it to fit in that
channel so we got the gas line hooked
back up we got the air
intake line hooked back up we got the
i think flood overflow in
that's hooked up routed out the bottom
it's another vacuum tube i believe or
flood overflow on the back side let's
try to do the bottom
throttle linkage is back on really
important the
choke linkage is back on put that on
before you bolt it down it makes it
super easy for that one
double check everything is moving
there's choke
throttle choke is supposed to
choke engages with the throttle valve
that's good
throttle all the way open that's good
i think everything is good
all right i sure hope
that she starts after taking the carb
off
i didn't notice one issue the bowl of
the carb
can go two different ways um
and it can bolts up two different ways
and
the screw holes still line up i think i
put it on
backwards so hopefully it doesn't cause
a problem it looks like that gasket
is symmetrical so it doesn't matter the
only issue is
the drain plug on the carbon is facing
inward towards the motor i can't get to
it so
i'm going to try to start it once i get
everything put back together
and hopefully it doesn't cause any
problems hopefully that doesn't leak
i'll keep an eye out for that
but next time i clean it out i'll
remember to to move that back over so
we'll get it all back together and see
if she'll start i'm to change the lower
end unit gear oil do that every 100
hours do this once a season definitely
before you store it for the winter
sometimes
if you have a bad seal water will get in
your oil in the lowering unit and when
it freezes over the winter it will crack
and
definitely not a good thing to crack the
lower end unit here
is the oil level port here is the fill
and
drain port here it's important that you
fill from this
lower port because that helps push all
the air up out of here when you're
filling it with oil there's a lot of
pockets around the gears
and by pushing the oil from the bottom
up it pushes all that air out
if you have the bottom bottom plug in
and you fill from the top
sometimes it'll keep those air pockets
in place so always good to feel from the
bottom that's what it's there for
it's what it's meant to do first step is
to
break loose the whole port and then
we'll break loose the bottom
drain and fill port
we want to keep this guy in because when
we pull this
out that will prevent it from venting
and that will hold the oil in until we
get that plug out all the way
and we can get a bucket under there i'm
going to take the lower
plug out
so you can see it's holding it pretty
well now i'll take this out and i'll
start flowing
all right we got all flowing now all
right that is all drained out
sample the oil make sure there's no
metal shavings
make sure there's no water that is
beautiful
going to put the gear oil
into the lower port and then we're going
to squeeze until we see it coming out of
the upper and then we'll put the plug in
to create a kind of a suction printed
from venting and draining out
all right keep filling all right it's
coming out see those air bubbles and get
those air bubbles out
put this guy back on
amazing too much
tighten this down want to get pretty
snug
one thing you don't want to do though is
you don't want this to suck back out
because if this sucks back out you're
going to suck all
back down and then what i do at the end
i just kind of
top it off a little bit
once you got the plugs back in give it a
wipe
look for any leaks
key points for replacing the lower end
unit oil
want to do it before winter just in case
you have water you want to feel from the
bottom always to make sure you push all
the air pockets up if you're using a
tube like i am once you get all
out of that level port there make sure
you don't let go with that tube where
it's going to suck the oil down you're
going to think there's all in there but
it's going to end up back in the
back in the um the tuba gear oil when
you're done filling from the bottom
you either got to be quick and put the
bottom one back in or
you put the top one in that will prevent
it from venting and that will buy you a
little bit more time
to put the bottom one in without all the
oil rushing out
overall pretty simple i would recommend
investing
in a pump that way you can pump see it
coming out
keep pressure on there you've got a pump
it'll stay down in position keep
pressure there won't be any suction that
you got to worry about
so overall pretty simple now we just put
some grease on some fittings
and call it a day
so bracket swivel fittings here
and here
i'm gonna put some on the transom clamp
screws just literally right on the
screws
put a little grease on the shift detent
now put a little grease on the shift
pivot point
all right guys we finally finished all
those maintenance activities
i'm a bit nervous i'm hoping that she
will start i've never tore down a car
before and cleaned it
never had a lower end unit off like that
before so
hopefully she will turn over got some
fresh gas in there
get the choke out let's give it a shot
i'm nervous
all right problem
the props turning
when i pull the pull cord that means i'm
out of position
with the shift linkage
all right i gotta figure this out
what what what what what
what what what what what all right i'm
gonna take this guy off
and then adjust that coupling to be in a
position
where neutral is neutral
right now when i put it in neutral on
the motor side the lower end is going to
be in
forward all right
all right figured out what it was
i kept saying don't change gears don't
change gears when you got your
linkage decoupled something happened and
i changed gears and
when the lower end unit was in neutral
the upper end was in reverse
so i had to you can manually
push and pull this up and down that
right there
to change the gears of the lower end
unit
so undo this coupling you can push and
pull this here
to change the gears to get them to match
up again so
should work but the problem is when i
was pulling the pull cord when it was in
ford
i cracked my bucket so now i gotta get
it
find a new bucket before we can try this
guy out
all right be back in a minute vape
the best hopefully it'll hold just
enough for me to
for me to try try this guy out again
all right and we're back got the whole
shift issue figured out now we're going
to give it a start
hey
maybe maybe you just need to get some
gas through that carb
maybe just needed to get some gas
through that carb maybe
i don't know all i know is how the fuel
lines were empty when i drained it
so i'm going to try it again this time
to see if it'll start
first pull nope
try one more time
hey buddy
yeah hey
side went pretty good sad a little bit
better than it was
seems like
well that's it she's running
first pull after i got it started
pretty pleased we'll see now
cold start now that the car is full of
gas next time my cold started see how
many pulls it takes
but overall she's running
all right we've got it out for the first
time since the
maintenance activities and she's running
great
i was worried with the whole issues i
had when i tried to start it in the
bucket but man she's doing great
honestly i think one of the biggest
things
is the prop edge filing because
performance has increased and honestly
the spark plug and that
crop edge filing are the two things that
i think
probably have the biggest impact on
performance
but i was getting some cavitation issues
at full rpm
but now i haven't had one issue at all
all day
so i'm planning out really well
everything is going pretty good started
on the third pole
starts on the first pole now
that she's warmed up every single time
so pretty pleased
about 16 right now 16 miles an hour
so
appreciate the views as always
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
why oh why
[Music]
my stuck between
Посмотреть больше похожих видео
How To Maintain Your Modern Toyota and Lexus Properly
How to Winterize an Outboard Motor | Winterizing a 2 stroke Outboard Motor | Boats.net
How to Winterize an Outboard Motor | Winterizing a 4 Stroke Outboard Motor | Boats.net
How To Winterize A 4-Stroke Outboard | My Boat Classic DIY
How to Winterize a Four Stroke Outboard Motor
chevy silverado 4.3l vortec (TDC) distributor install & where 2 point the rotor
5.0 / 5 (0 votes)