HYPERPIGMENTATION LAYERING
Summary
TLDRIn this informative skincare video, Dr. V, a cosmetic formulator and doctor, addresses the challenges of treating hyperpigmentation, particularly in skin of color. She shares her personal experience with melasma and provides a comprehensive morning and evening skincare routine using The Ordinary products, focusing on ingredients like squalane, glycerin, Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin C, and niacinamide. Dr. V emphasizes the importance of a hydrating environment for effective treatment, the role of sunscreen in preventing pigmentation triggers, and offers a cost-effective routine for tackling stubborn hyperpigmentation.
Takeaways
- 😀 Hyperpigmentation, such as melasma, can begin as small freckle-like spots and spread across the face if not treated properly.
- 🌞 Sunscreen is crucial for preventing the spread of hyperpigmentation, as UV damage can trigger melanocytes to produce more melanin.
- 🧪 Many products on the market may not be effective for hyperpigmentation, especially for skin of color, due to low percentages of active ingredients.
- 💡 The speaker, a cosmetic formulator and doctor, created a channel to address the specific skincare needs of skin of color, including hyperpigmentation.
- 🚿 Morning skincare routines should start with a gentle, hydrating cleanser like Squalane to maintain a healing environment for the skin.
- 🧴 Alpha Arbutin is a key ingredient for treating hyperpigmentation as it inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme, reducing melanin production.
- 🍋 Vitamin C, specifically Ascorbyl Glucoside 12%, is recommended for its less irritating properties compared to Ascorbic Acid.
- 💦 A thick moisturizer with ingredients like ceramides is essential to hydrate and plump skin cells, reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
- 🌞 A broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 50 and PA++++ is vital to block UVA and UVB rays, preventing further pigmentation.
- 🌙 Evening routines should also prioritize cleansing to remove makeup, pollution, and UV exposure from the day.
- 🛒 The total cost of the recommended routine from The Ordinary is £45, offering an affordable approach to treating hyperpigmentation.
Q & A
What is hyperpigmentation and why is it challenging to treat?
-Hyperpigmentation is a condition where patches of skin become darker in color than the surrounding skin. It's challenging to treat because it often results from an overproduction of melanin, triggered by UV damage or inflammation, and can spread across the face if not properly managed.
What is melasma and how did the speaker's mother identify it on her?
-Melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation that typically appears on the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. The speaker's mother recognized it by its appearance as opposed to freckles, and warned her about the potential for it to spread across her face without proper treatment.
Why do melanocytes produce more melanin in response to UV damage?
-Melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin, are triggered by UV damage to produce more melanin as a protective response. This increased melanin production can lead to the formation of hyperpigmentation.
What is the role of tyrosinase in the production of melanin?
-Tyrosinase is an enzyme necessary for the production of melanin. By inhibiting tyrosinase, the rate of melanin production and thus hyperpigmentation can be reduced.
Why are some products on the market ineffective for treating hyperpigmentation?
-Some products are ineffective because they may contain a low percentage of active ingredients, which are not sufficient to treat hyperpigmentation, especially for skin of color that often requires higher concentrations of actives without causing irritation.
What is the significance of using a moisturizer that is hydrating enough in the skincare routine for hyperpigmentation?
-A well-hydrated skin environment is crucial for the effectiveness of active ingredients. A moisturizer that is hydrating enough helps to plump up the skin cells, reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation by creating space between cells loaded with melanin.
Why is sunscreen essential in the treatment of hyperpigmentation?
-Sunscreen is essential as it blocks the UV triggers that can exacerbate hyperpigmentation. Without proper UV protection, the skin is more susceptible to further melanin production and the spread of hyperpigmentation.
What is the recommended morning skincare routine for treating hyperpigmentation according to the script?
-The recommended morning routine includes cleansing with a hydrating cleanser, applying a tyrosinase inhibitor like Alpha Arbutin, using a Vitamin C derivative, moisturizing with a thicker moisturizer that may contain ceramides, and applying a broad-spectrum SPF 50 PA++++ sunscreen.
What is the role of niacinamide in the skincare routine mentioned in the script?
-Niacinamide serves as a tyrosinase inhibitor, helping to reduce the rate of melanin production. It can also be mixed with moisturizers to achieve a balance between hydration and concentration of active ingredients.
What is the cost of the skincare routine recommended by the speaker for treating hyperpigmentation?
-The total cost of the recommended routine is approximately £45, which includes products like Granactive Retinoid, NMF, a cleanser, Niacinamide, Vitamin C, and Alpha Arbutin.
What is the alternative product the speaker created for those with stubborn hyperpigmentation that doesn't respond to the drugstore routine?
-For stubborn hyperpigmentation, the speaker created a facial hyperpigmentation kit containing all 10 tyrosinase inhibitors, offering a stronger alternative to the drugstore products.
Outlines
😷 Understanding and Treating Hyperpigmentation
The speaker, who had early onset melasma, discusses the challenges of treating hyperpigmentation. They explain that melasma starts as freckles on the cheekbones, often mistaken for cute spots, but can spread across the face if not treated properly with sunscreen. Hyperpigmentation is caused by melanocytes, the cells producing melanin, which are triggered by UV damage. The speaker emphasizes the importance of using products specifically formulated for skin of color and introduces their channel, which is dedicated to providing advice on treating hyperpigmentation for people with skin of color. They also mention the ineffectiveness of many products on the market due to low percentages of active ingredients and the need for higher percentages without skin irritation.
🧪 Skincare Routine for Hyperpigmentation
This paragraph outlines a detailed skincare routine for treating hyperpigmentation. It starts with a morning cleanse using Squalane Cleanser from The Ordinary, which is hydrating and important for maintaining a healing environment. The routine includes the use of Alpha Arbutin as a tyrosinase inhibitor to reduce melanin production, Vitamin C for less irritation, and a thicker moisturizer with NMF to hydrate and create a plumping effect on skin cells. The speaker also discusses the importance of sunscreen with SPF 50 PA++++ to block UV triggers and mentions their own mineral sunscreen creation. The evening routine involves cleansing, using Vitamin A (Granactive Retinoid), Niacinamide for its anti-irritant properties, and a moisturizer. The cost of the entire routine is calculated, and the speaker suggests trying the routine for six months to see results.
💰 Investing in Effective Hyperpigmentation Treatments
The final paragraph discusses the cost-effectiveness of the proposed skincare routine, which totals £450, and positions it as a more affordable option compared to professional treatments that can cost upwards of £500 to £1,000. The speaker acknowledges that after six months, if the routine does not show results, it may be necessary to consider stronger treatments, such as a facial hyperpigmentation kit containing all 10 tyrosine inhibitors. They offer a free guide on their website and encourage viewers to subscribe and ask questions for further assistance.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Hyperpigmentation
💡Melasma
💡Melanocytes
💡Sunscreen
💡Alpha Arbutin
💡Vitamin C
💡Niacinamide
💡Moisturizer
💡Ceramides
💡Retinoid
💡Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen
Highlights
Hyperpigmentation, such as melasma, is challenging to treat and can begin with small freckles that spread across the face.
Melanocytes, the cells producing melanin, can be triggered by UV damage leading to hyperpigmentation.
Skin of color is more susceptible to hyperpigmentation due to larger melanocytes.
Many products on the market may not be effective for hyperpigmentation, especially for skin of color.
Higher percentage active products are needed for treating hyperpigmentation in skin of color without causing irritation.
The Ordinary's Squalane Cleanser is recommended for its hydrating properties, which support a healing environment for the skin.
Alpha Arbutin is a tyrosinase inhibitor that can reduce melanin production and hyperpigmentation.
Vitamin C, specifically Ascorbyl Glucoside 12%, is recommended for its effectiveness and lower irritation.
Moisturizing is crucial for reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation by separating compacted skin cells.
Sunscreen with SPF 50 and PA4+ is essential to prevent further hyperpigmentation.
A mineral sunscreen is preferred for its anti-inflammatory properties and suitability for skin of color.
Cleansing in the evening is important to remove makeup, UV exposure, and pollutants that can damage the skin.
Granactive Retinoid 2% is recommended for its instability and the need for refrigeration and timely use.
Niacinamide can be mixed with moisturizers to achieve a 5% ratio, reducing irritation while hydrating the skin.
The cost of the recommended skincare routine from The Ordinary is £45, offering an affordable option for treating hyperpigmentation.
For stubborn hyperpigmentation, a more potent product with all 10 tyrosinase inhibitors may be necessary.
A facial hyperpigmentation kit with all 10 tyrosinase inhibitors is available for stubborn cases at £10.
Dr. V's channel provides non-sponsored advice on treating hyperpigmentation, specifically for skin of color.
Transcripts
hyperpigmentation is one of the toughest
things to treat I would know I had early
onset malasma so that's
hyperpigmentation on the cheekbones and
I remember it so clearly I was in my 20s
I was studying medicine that means I was
still quite young I was about 25 and i'
just come back from holiday and I
thought I had these really cute freckles
and I remember my mom looking at me and
do you know moms they really will tell
you exactly how it is and my mom said no
Vena that is not um those are not
freckles that unfortunately is melasma
and if you don't treat it and if you're
not careful and if you don't start
applying your sunscreen that is going to
spread across your whole face and she's
not wrong so the way it starts 80% of us
is tiny little freckles on the
cheekbones which we think are cute in
fact we exaggerate them by actually
putting on um more kind of makeup to
make your freckles stand out a bit more
but actually what's happened what
happens are that those melanocytes the
cells that produce the pigment melanin
have been triggered by UV damage and it
starts off as tiny little dots but then
they start to amalgamate on the cheek
and they form almost like a map on the
cheeks it then starts to spread across
the rest of their face onto the forehead
and then the lip area tends to happen
more in hot countries it tends to happen
or if you've been to a hot country on
holiday and haven't protect the skin and
it tends to happen in skin of color skin
of color means that we have larger
melanoides so cells to trigger now the
problem is that a lot of the products on
the market can actually make your
hyperpigmentation worse because they're
formulated for Caucasian skin and this
is the reason I actually created this
whole Channel I'm a doctor but also a
cosmetic formulator specifically for
skin of's colors I'm going to tell you
which ingredients to use and which ones
maybe to Sid step one thing you probably
know by now is that a lot of the
products on the market that say that
they treat
hyperpigmentation aren't very effective
the reason is that the percentage
actives tend to be too low they don't
tend to be in the therapeutic index for
hyperpigmentation for skin of color we
tend to need higher percentage active
products that don't irritate the skin
you irritate the skin inflame the skin
so we have to walk a very tight fine
line between the two worlds that's the
reason this whole Channel exists it is a
non-sponsored channel so you know what
products are using and which ones to
avoid so the good news for you today is
that we're going step by step the
products to use from the ordinary for
hyperpigmentation so let's start off
with why does hyperpigmentation occur in
the first place any form of inflammation
can trigger the melanite that's the cell
producing the pigment melanin think of
the melanocyte the cell producing the
pigment melanin a little bit like a
balloon so here I've got my balloon this
is my melanite and this is my
inflammation so inflammation can occur
from a scratch a bite a burn UV
radiation any form of damage can lead to
inflammation I have my balloon which is
my melano site now imagine I pop that
balloon with the inflammation and all
that air that seeps out that's the
melanin melanin seeps out into the skin
cells around it comes to the surface and
now you see hyperpigmentation so I
always say one scratch one bite or one
burn and we hyperpigment so we have to
be more careful with our skin right so
let's go step by step in the morning we
want to cleanse the skin we want to
remove any actives that we've had from
the night before and also any saliva
that might be on the face the reason is
that you have Ames and saliva and that
can also irritate it's a little bit like
in the winter time when you're licking
the corners of your lips and that can
lead to angular kitis so soreness on the
edges of the lips which can also lead to
hyperpigmentation want to get rid of all
of that from the face so the product I'd
recommend from the ordinary would be the
squala cleanser the reason I love it
actually it's very hydrating a lot of
these cleansers on the market strip the
skin and actually when you lose water
from that topl skin you're no longer you
no longer have a healing environment and
that's exact opposite of what we're
trying to do when the skin is well
hydrated all the actives that you put
onto the skin work better so in this if
you look at the inky list that's the
ingredients list at the back it's in
descending order we've got squalene
which is very hydrating it's an emolient
plus glycerin glycerin is a wonderful
ingredient is a water magnet I.E a
humtum and we want that actually in our
cleansers and in our moisturizers so
that again plumps up the skin cells also
helps to reduce the appearance of
hyperpigmentation and this is why it's
also important when it comes to a
moisturizer that's fatty enough to do
that the reason is that your skin cells
as they become compacted at the top
they're loaded with melanin if you put
water molecules in between those cells
they separate a little and actually the
hyperpigmentation doesn't look as dark
have you noticed that on a pigmented
area you put moisturizer and immediately
the skin looks brighter and not so
hyperpigmented that's the reason why the
second step in your morning routine is
your Alpha Artin go for two % this is
where the clinical studies are based at
so Alpha arbutin is a tyrosinase
inhibitor tyrosinase Inhibitors are
essential I know it's a really long word
but let me explain to you what's going
on here there's one enzyme needed to
make melanin and that's tyrosinase if
you inhibit this enzyme you're reducing
the rate of melanin production so you're
reducing the rate of hyperpigmentation
production and so there are lots of
different types of to rosn there 10 that
I highly recommend for skin of color and
this is one of the most effective ones
next moving on to the Vitamin C so there
are lots of vitamin C's uh from the
ordinary the ones I the one I would
recommend is a sko ball glucoside 12% so
this is less irritating than ascorbic
acid which is important for
hyperpigmentation because we're trying
not to trigger any more
hyperpigmentation after this we want to
hydrate the skin remember we talked
about how important it was to create a
healing environment for the skin avoid
all lotions you want to go for a thicker
moisturizer so for example the nmf from
the ordinary if you feel like you're
skin is too dry for this particular
moisturizer I recommend you go for one
with ceramides in it the skin of color
we have less ceramides in our skin
already and so it's something that our
skin craves now there are lots of
different camid on the market I really
like seravee but I also created sarap
pep brightening moisturizer this one's
for skin of color in here I've put in
ceramides and peptides as well as stem
cells so this is specifically if you're
looking for anti-aging as well as
something for your pigmentation I also
put in a couple of extra treats I put in
niacinamide and also licorice root
extract which is another very powerful
tyrosines inhibitor now the next step is
probably the most important step when it
comes to hyperpigmentation and that is
your sunscreen if you don't block the
trigger no matter how many actives you
put on the skin it's not going to work
and so what you want is SPF 50 pa4
pluses now what pa4 pluses means is that
you're getting full protection of your
UVA rays see spf50 relates to your UVB
rays the Rays that burn easy way to
remember as UVA A is for aging and also
more likely to lead to cancer UVA rays
whereas UVB rays lead to Burns so it's
all well and good talking about Burns
and burns are very important because
again if you burn um you are more likely
to lead to skin cancer the UVA is the
silent raise you don't see it happening
it's invisible you don't burn with it
but it's damaging the DNA and so
actually we want broad spectrum pa4
pluses to make sure we're fully
protected now the ordinary doesn't do a
sunscreen at the moment and I always
recommend a mineral over a chemical
sunscreen because it's anti-inflammatory
so I created a mineral sunscreen for you
this gives you spf50 rating pa4 plasters
with zero white cost and that's
something that's obviously important for
skin of color I also put on a few extra
treats I've given you Blue Shield
protection you youve got nicomide and
stem cells so this actually helps you
with your hyperpigmentation and your
anti-aging okay right now moving on to
your PM routine first of all we have to
cleanse the skin don't forget you've had
UV on the skin all day we have a lot of
actives on the skin pollution is the
enemy those particles get into your
pores and start to wreak havoc we
basically have an oxidative stress
taking place in the skin this damages
the collagen and leads to premature fine
lines so what we're going to do is we're
going to cleanse the skin properly first
of all starting off your myel water to
remove any makeup if you wear makeup
during the day second of all you want to
go in with your cleanser so the cleanser
that I like from the ordinary is a Squan
cleanser again it's hydrating the skin
then Pat your skin dry with a white
towel just to make sure all the makeup
has been removed there's no Gunk on the
skin then we go in with our serums so I
would put in your vitamin A first so I
love the 2% um granor retinoid from the
ordinary and with this don't forget you
have to refrigerate this and you have to
use it within 3 months vitamin A is very
unstable I don't love this packaging if
I'm completely honest we do want this
really an airless packaging but the
ordinary right now doesn't do aess
packaging it everything tends to be in
PIP hats next I would recommend your ni
cinnamide now clinical studies for n
cide have been done between 2 to 5% this
can actually irritate a lot of you and
don't forget when it comes to skin of
color the aim is to have 0% irritation
so I have a little trick for you what we
can actually do is to mix these two
together you've got your ninite on one
side and you've got your nmf moisturizer
on the other if we use equal parts of
this we're going to get to about 5%
ratio so you've essentially diluted the
ninite and hydrated the skin at the same
time so let's go through the cost of
this routine so granactive retinoid £1
nmf £6 10 your cleanser £830 nicomide 5
vitamin C4 10 Alpha arbutin £10 used to
be a lot cheaper than that uh but it's
gone up in price and actually it's a
good product so it's worth it the total
cost is
£450 so I would say this is a decent
routine quite a little bit expensive but
probably the most affordable that you
can find in a drugstore at the moment I
would say try this routine for six
months if after 6 months you're seeing
good results then actually you've got
quite easy to treat hyperpigmentation if
however after 6 months you are not
seeing a reduction of pigmentation is
because you have stubborn pigmentation
and it's likely that your pigmentation
has been there for decades your likely
to need all 10 tyros Inhibitors and
again this product didn't exist for you
and so I made it for you so this has all
10 tyros inhibitors for you it's got two
products in it and it's probably the
strongest thing on the market at the
moment however the downside to this
facial hyperpigmentation kit it's
£10 and honestly don't start with my
products first if cheap Works go with
that if it doesn't you at least now have
an option to have the upgrade before
this kit you would have to then go
professional and those uh treatments can
go from £500 to £1,000 so I wanted you
to have something in between just in
case the cheaper products weren't
working for you don't forget you can
download your free guide from our
website skincare by drv and I am in the
comment section for 1 hour at the launch
of every YouTube video so when you
subscribe hit that notification Bell so
you know that I'm here to answer your
questions thank you so much for watching
and I'll see you next time take care
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