How to prep for Stain and Finishing Oil
Summary
TLDRThis video provides a step-by-step guide on how to use a stain and finishing oil for wood, demonstrating its application on both soft and hard woods like pine and oak. The all-in-one product offers coloring and protection without needing an additional topcoat. It explains how different woods absorb the stain differently, making test applications important. Viewers are shown how to properly sand wood, apply the stain evenly, and layer coats for desired protection and sheen. The video emphasizes consistent sanding and pressure to avoid blotchy finishes and offers tips for achieving a durable, glossy result.
Takeaways
- đš The stain and finishing oil is a versatile product that can be used on both soft and hard woods, and even for flooring.
- đ The product comes in five colors, including a natural option without pigment, and can be custom mixed.
- đ It's essential to practice on the same type of wood you plan to use, as different woods absorb pigment differently.
- đČ The softness of the wood affects the staining process; softer woods like pine absorb more pigment, while harder woods like oak absorb less.
- đ The grain of the wood also plays a role in the final appearance, with woods like oak showing a distinct grain pattern.
- đ Allow the stain and finishing oil to sit for about 10 minutes before wiping off to ensure proper absorption into the wood.
- đ Consistent sanding is crucial for an even finish; start with a coarse grit and work up to a finer one, always sanding with the grain.
- đ« Avoid sanding against the grain or using a grit higher than 180, as it can seal the wood and prevent proper stain absorption.
- đ ïž Apply a generous amount of stain and finishing oil, ensuring it soaks into the wood fibers for at least 10 minutes before wiping off.
- âš For increased sheen and protection, additional coats of the natural stain and finishing oil can be applied after the first coat has dried.
- đ Always wipe the stain off with consistent pressure and an applicator that hasn't absorbed stain, to avoid unevenness.
Q & A
What is the primary purpose of the stain and finishing oil mentioned in the script?
-The stain and finishing oil serves as an all-in-one product that both colors and protects the wood, eliminating the need for an additional top coat.
How many colors are available for the stain and finishing oil, and what is special about the 'natural' color?
-There are five colors available for the stain and finishing oil, including a 'natural' color that does not contain any pigment.
Why is it important to practice on the same type of wood before starting a project?
-Different types of wood absorb the stain and finishing oil differently, affecting the final appearance. Practicing ensures that you understand how the wood will react to the product.
What is the difference in appearance between staining pine and oak with the same product?
-Pine, being a softer wood, absorbs more pigment, resulting in a darker color. Oak, a harder wood, absorbs less, leading to a lighter appearance.
Why does the script mention allowing the stain and finishing oil to sit for about 10 minutes on the first coat?
-This allows the oils and pigments to absorb into the raw wood, ensuring a more consistent and deep penetration of the stain.
What is the recommended method for sanding wood before applying the stain and finishing oil?
-Start with a coarse grit (around 100 or 120) and move up to a finer grit, always sanding with the grain of the wood, and ensuring consistent sanding across the entire surface.
How can you achieve a darker look with unpigmented oils, and what should be used for this purpose?
-To darken the wood with unpigmented oils, apply odorless mineral spirits to the wood surface, which will evaporate quickly and provide a snapshot of the wood's appearance with the oils applied.
What is the significance of the age of the wood in terms of staining?
-Older wood tends to have a darker appearance due to aging or oxidation, which can affect the final color and depth achieved with the stain and finishing oil.
How many coats of the stain and finishing oil are recommended for a durable finish on raw wood?
-Two coats are the bare minimum for a durable finish, with three coats recommended for surfaces like floors or tabletops that are frequently washed.
What is the best way to increase the sheen and add more protection to the wood after staining?
-Apply additional coats of the natural stain and finishing oil to increase sheen and protection, with each subsequent coat enhancing the sheen further.
Why is it suggested not to use water-based products after applying the stain and finishing oil?
-Water-based products could distort the richness of the stain and finishing oil, so it's best to avoid them to maintain the product's effectiveness and appearance.
Outlines
đ ïž How to Use Stain and Finishing Oil on Wood
This paragraph introduces the Stain and Finishing Oil, explaining that itâs a penetrating stain available in six colors, including a pigment-free natural option. The product is versatile, suitable for both furniture and flooring, and does not require an additional top coat. The paragraph emphasizes the importance of practicing on the same type of wood to be used in the project, as different woods absorb stain differently. It provides an overview of how softer woods like pine absorb more pigment compared to harder woods like oak, and highlights the importance of testing the stain before starting a project.
đł Demonstration of Stain on Different Woods
This paragraph provides a demonstration of how Stain and Finishing Oil behaves on different types of wood, specifically pine and oak. The author pours the stain onto both types of wood and explains that softer woods like pine absorb more stain, resulting in a darker color, while harder woods like oak absorb less. The paragraph underscores the necessity of allowing the stain to sit for 10 minutes to absorb properly, showing the differences in color and grain between the woods. It also advises adding multiple coats to achieve the desired color and sheen, and the importance of consistently sanding the wood to avoid blotchiness.
đš Application Techniques and Sanding Tips
This paragraph dives into the correct application techniques for Stain and Finishing Oil, emphasizing the importance of consistent sanding for an even finish. It describes how sanding against the grain or using different grits in different areas can lead to uneven stain absorption, resulting in blotchy finishes. The paragraph outlines the steps for applying the stain, including the necessity of allowing it to soak into the wood for 10 minutes and then wiping it off with even pressure. It also advises on how to manage areas where the stain is not absorbing evenly, stressing the need for a consistent application process for the best results.
Mindmap
Keywords
đĄStain
đĄFinishing Oil
đĄPenetrating Stain
đĄSoft Woods
đĄHard Woods
đĄPractice
đĄAbsorbency Rate
đĄSanding
đĄGrain
đĄSheen
đĄOdourless Mineral Spirits
đĄConsistency
Highlights
Introduction to a stain and finishing oil product for wood that serves as both a colorant and a protector.
Availability of the stain in five colors, including a natural option without pigment.
The product can be used on both soft and hard woods and is also suitable for flooring.
Custom mixing of the stain colors to meet specific project needs.
Necessity to practice staining on the same type of wood to understand color absorption differences.
Demonstration of how softwoods like pine absorb more pigment compared to hardwoods like oak.
The importance of allowing the stain to sit for about 10 minutes before wiping off for the first coat.
Visual comparison of stain absorption on raw wood versus aged wood.
Technique for applying the stain and finishing oil evenly over the wood surface.
The significance of sanding consistency to avoid blotchy staining results.
Step-by-step guide on sanding wood from coarse to fine grit to prepare for staining.
Demonstration of the difference in stain absorption based on sanding technique.
Instructions on how to apply a liberal amount of stain and allow it to soak for 10 minutes.
Technique for wiping back excess stain with consistent pressure and motion.
The effect of sanding against the grain on stain absorption and appearance.
How to achieve different levels of sheen by adding layers of the natural stain and finishing oil.
Recommendation of a minimum of two coats for a durable finish, with three coats suggested for high-traffic areas.
Advice against using water-based products on top of the stain and finishing oil to maintain richness.
Invitation for viewers to leave comments or questions for further engagement.
Transcripts
are you looking to stain your wood
furniture we're going to show you how to
use our gorgeous stain and finishing oil
which is a penetrating stain we have it
in five gorgeous colors including our
natural that doesn't contain any pigment
we're going to do a step by step on how
to use it on soft Woods hard woods and
what you need to do to get the surface
ready my favorite part about the stain
and finishing oil is it is an all in one
it colors your wood and it also protects
your wood there is no additional top
coat required with this in fact you can
use it not only for your furniture but
for flooring as well we have it
available in six different colors and
they can also be custom
mixed it's important to note that with
our stain and finishing oil you do need
to practice on the exact type of wood
that you're going to be using because
different Woods will look
completely different so for instance if
you are doing a tabletop and you have an
inconspicuous spot on the underside give
it a practice there or if you're doing a
brand new project have a spare piece cut
off and then you can practice on that so
why is the stain and finishing oil going
to look different on different types of
woods and that is due to the softness of
the wood for instance the pine which is
very soft is going to absorb a lot of
the pigment the harder wood Woods such
as Oak won't absorb nearly as much and
also you'll find differencing in the
grain of the wood you can see how Oak
has this lovely grain and pine not so
much so that's how your main differences
are going to be seen let's do a quick
demonstration right now we've got this
soft Pine here and we've got this harder
oak it will look completely different
due to the things that we talked about
okay and pour some onto the oak just two
little spots here I always allow the
stain and finishing oil to sit for about
10 minutes especially on the very first
coat this is because the oils and the
pigments are going to be absorbing into
this raw
wood but just for camera's sake we're
going to remove the excess right now and
you'll be able to see the color
difference you can see how the
oak is very different than the softer
Pine so you can see the color difference
is simply due to the different types of
woods this is a harder oak this is a
soft Pine and you just get a different
absorbency rate so definitely do a
practice prior to embarking on your
project working with your sample taking
a look at it say you want to have it a
little bit darker this is showing what
two coats of the stain and finishing oil
looks like on Oak but perhaps you're
happy with this color depth this is
showing one coat and then you just want
to add more protection increase the
sheen just add a coat of your natural
stain and finishing oil again you want
to allow it to penetrate sit on the wood
for about 10 minutes prior to buffing it
off to see what your wood project looks
like with any of these unpigmented oils
applied simply add some odorless mineral
spirits right onto the wood surface and
it's going to darken
woohoo it evaporates pretty quickly but
that gives you a snapshot of what your
wood will look like with these oils
applied notice how this new Pine looks
almost white and this has a bit more of
an orange Hue and that's because of the
age this Pine has already been out and
about and has had a chance to age or
oxidize showing Pine here the older the
wood the darker it looks you have a raw
wood project and you need to prep it for
stain and finishing o oil the best thing
to do is to make sure that it is
consistently sanded you always want to
start with a coarse grit say around 100
120 and then move up to a more fine grit
always sanding with the grain of the
wood if it's super rough you could go
down to an 80 grit but always go from
lower to higher and make sure you sand
it twice at each level So to avoid any
blotchiness in your stained finish you
want to ensure that it is consistently
sanded on all areas and what I'm going
to be doing here is just a little
demonstration of what it looks like on
wood when you apply the stain and
finishing oil on an area where the
sanding was against the grain and a
little bit too rough again this is a
more rough sanding and against the grain
compared to an even sanding preparation
on this side anyhow as you are applying
your stain evenly over your wood surface
allow it a good 10 minutes to soak in so
this is a raw
project that you have prepped with your
your sanding paper again we want to
start with a 100 or 120 go to a 150 and
end off with a 180 at the finest if you
go higher than that you're going to seal
up your wood and it won't be able to to
accept much of the stain and finishing
oil applying on our sample board the
stain and finishing oil I'm applying a
liberal amount allowing it to soak in
for a good 10 minutes you really want it
to saturate all the wood fibers if
you're getting a little bit light on
your application of the staining
finishing oil it's not going to get a
chance to soak in deep into those wood
fibers so really slap on use a lot and
allow it to sit on there for a good 10
minutes any areas where you see it's
kind of absorbing right away come along
and push some more product into those
areas we have a lot of product sitting
on here it's been about 10 minutes now
comes the part where I'm going to wipe
it back it's very important that you
remove it with the same amount of
pressure and the same type of applicator
absorbance see so starting using our
applicator pad from one end to the other
with along the
grain there we go that is looking
gorgeous so far I can use another pass I
can use this for another pass right now
if it was totally saturated with product
I
wouldn't see what that looks
like okay now I'm going to flip it over
a little bit of pressure too much there
I'm just going to go back and hit it
again okay so here we go again left to
right using the same amount of
pressure now I am going to be turning
this over I took off a little bit more
stain there than here that's because
this is becoming a little bit too
saturated so starting off with the new
side
there we
go same amount of pressure and if you
find that your applicator is still
getting a little too like depositing too
much stain try and get an area of the
applicator that hasn't soaked any of the
stain up
yet there we go oo okay I can really see
this spot here where I sand Ed Against
the
Grain it's a considerable difference let
me just show that to the camera so you
can see how it was sanded a little bit
more vigorously here and it almost seems
as
though this area was rougher and this
one I sanded a bit smoother so it didn't
pick up the stain as much and that's
what you're going to see all these
blotchy areas if for instance you use
use a 180 grit uh in only certain areas
of your tabletop for instance so that's
why it is so important to be completely
consistent with your pressure and with
your sanding levels so you want to make
sure the whole tabl toop has been sanded
with the 120 again the whole tabletop
with the 150 consistently back and forth
with the grain never higher than a 180
one coat of the stain and finishing oil
in cappuccino on this o and it looks
gorgeous I don't want it any darker but
I know once it's dyed tomorrow that I'm
going to want to increase the sheen
simply done by adding on a layer or two
of the natural in the stain and
finishing oil you'll see that your very
first application like the cappuccino of
the stain finishing oil you're going to
go through a considerable amount because
it's really soaking into the wood fibers
here but when you come along to up your
Sheen and add more protection with the
natural you're going to go through very
little maybe about a third of what you
used to stain it originally and you
don't have to stop with just one coat of
the natural you can layer it so every
subsequent coat that you put on you'll
get higher Sheen in fact I've gotten a
semigloss with only three coats of the
stain and finishing oil on Hardwoods
such as Oak if you feel you need even
more protection just put put on another
layer of the natural SFO never come
along with something say is a waterbased
because it's going to distort the
richness that you get with this
particular stain and finishing oil on
raw wood two coats is the bare minimum
of product that you would need to give
you that super durable finish three
coats if it's something like a floor or
a table top that's washed daily rest
assured you don't need any other top
coat on this particular product please
write any comments below or questions
and I hope you have found this helpful
[Music]
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