The Do's And Dont's of Alpine QuickDraws

Summary

This video provides a detailed overview of alpine quickdraws, explaining their components, how to properly use them, and common mistakes to avoid. The host contrasts sport and alpine quickdraws, emphasizing the importance of minimizing rope drag and keeping climbing gear secure. A step-by-step guide shows how to create an alpine quickdraw and discusses why extending it is crucial in certain situations. The video also covers key safety tips for new climbers, highlighting the importance of learning from experienced mentors before attempting lead climbing.

Takeaways

• 🔧 Alpine quick draws are preferred over sport quick draws for trad climbs due to their flexibility and reduced rope drag.
• 🧗‍♂️ Directly clipping gear like nuts can increase the risk of rope drag and wiggling pieces out of place, which is dangerous.
• 🪢 Extending gear is important to avoid dislodging it, but this comes with the tradeoff of a longer potential fall.
• ⚠️ Avoid rigid quick draws in trad climbing because they can cause gear to move out of place due to stiffness.
• ⚙️ Alpine quick draws are made of slings (usually Dyneema) and carabiners, which are strong, lightweight, and provide flexibility.
• ❌ A common mistake is to shorten an alpine quick draw incorrectly, which could lead to it becoming useless when needing to extend it during a climb.
• 🔄 When shortening an alpine quick draw, avoid twisting the sling improperly as it can cause the setup to jam and become difficult to use.
• 📏 The correct way to shorten an alpine quick draw is to loop the sling neatly and clip both loops with the carabiner, making it easily extendable when needed.
• 🧠 Proper use of alpine quick draws helps prevent rope drag, allowing smoother climbing with less friction on the rope.
• 🚨 Beginners should always climb with experienced climbers to ensure correct gear placement and avoid dangerous situations during a climb.

Q & A

What is an alpine quick draw and why is it used in trad climbing?

An alpine quick draw consists of a sling and two carabiners. It's used in trad climbing to reduce rope drag and prevent gear from being wiggled out of place. It is essential when gear placement requires flexibility and the ability to extend the distance between the climber and the protection.

Why shouldn't sport quick draws be used in trad climbing?

Sport quick draws are more rigid and designed for sport climbing. In trad climbing, they can increase rope drag and cause gear like nuts to be wiggled out of place. Alpine quick draws are better suited because they provide more flexibility and reduce the risk of the gear moving or becoming dislodged.

What are the risks of not extending a quick draw in trad climbing?

Not extending a quick draw can lead to increased rope drag and can also create a direct connection to the piece of gear, which may cause it to wiggle out of place, potentially leading to failure of protection.

When might you not want to extend a quick draw in trad climbing?

You might not want to extend a quick draw if doing so would increase your fall distance to a point where you could hit a ledge or other obstacle. Climbers need to make a judgment call based on the specific route and fall risk.

Why is using a sling correctly in an alpine quick draw important?

Using a sling correctly ensures that the quick draw can be extended easily without creating a situation where the sling could pull through completely, which would leave the climber unprotected in that spot. It also avoids rope drag and potential gear movement.

What is rope drag, and how do alpine quick draws help reduce it?

Rope drag occurs when the rope bends and pinches around obstacles, increasing friction and making it harder to climb. Alpine quick draws reduce rope drag by allowing the rope to move in a straighter line, minimizing friction points.

What is a common mistake when shortening an alpine quick draw, and why should it be avoided?

A common mistake is taking the sling, looping it incorrectly, and clipping both carabiners. This can result in the sling pulling through when extending, leaving the climber with a fully extended quick draw or, worse, no protection in that spot. It should be avoided to ensure safety.

What is the recommended way to shorten an alpine quick draw without causing problems?

The recommended way to shorten an alpine quick draw is to pass one end of the sling through the carabiner and clip both loops together, allowing for easy extension without creating a twist or making it difficult to manage mid-climb.

Why is it important to be organized with rope and gear management during climbing?

Good rope and gear management is critical for safety. Keeping everything neat and organized helps avoid tangles, reduces the risk of mistakes like unclipping incorrectly, and makes climbing smoother and safer.

What should beginners know before attempting to lead trad climbs using alpine quick draws?

Beginners should never attempt to lead trad climbs on their own without proper training and experience. It's crucial to climb with someone experienced who can guide them on gear placement, rope management, and safe leading techniques before attempting to lead climbs.