Chinese Fashion Through the Dynasties Part 2
Summary
TLDRIn 'Off the Great Wall', hosts Mikey and Danny continue their exploration of ancient Chinese fashion, starting from the conservative Song Dynasty with its simple attire to the Mongol-influenced Yuan Dynasty's practical yet stylish clothing. They highlight the Ming Dynasty's elaborate fashion system with distinct styles for different social classes and the Qing Dynasty's Manchu-inspired fashion, including the iconic queue hairstyle and the unique 'flower pot' shoes. The video humorously contrasts historical fashion with modern sensibilities, engaging viewers with its light-hearted approach.
Takeaways
- 👕 The Song Dynasty favored conservative moral values with simplicity in clothing, contrasting the opulence of the Tang Dynasty.
- 👉 Men in the Song Dynasty wore plain robes and shirts, often with silk head coverings.
- 👚 Women's fashion in the Song Dynasty included the 'bades' style, featuring a knee-length jacket and the popular grand sleeves for high social status.
- 🌷 The Tulip skirt from the Song Dynasty was unique for retaining the fragrance of tulip grass.
- 🏹 The Mongols' invasion led to the establishment of the Yuan Dynasty, introducing new fashion elements like the 'TR and dresses'.
- 🐎 The 'P War panu' was a practical Mongol garment, a double-sided leather coat without collar or sleeves, ideal for horseback riding.
- 👘 Ming Dynasty fashion was heavily influenced by previous dynasties, taking over 20 years to develop a comprehensive clothing system.
- 🐉 The Ming Dynasty had strict fashion rules, with different embroidery patterns for civil and military officials, and the emperor wearing dragon motifs.
- 👗 Common women in the Ming Dynasty wore plain gowns, coats, shawls, and short tops, usually with a skirt.
- 👠 The Qing Dynasty, though not Han Chinese, introduced the 'Chopine' shoes with a raised center to make women appear taller and slender.
- 👲 The Qing Dynasty is known for the Manchu queue hairstyle for men, and the 'Chopine' shoes were a unique footwear innovation.
Q & A
What was the fashion style like during the Song Dynasty?
-During the Song Dynasty, fashion was characterized by conservative moral values with simplicity over opulence. Men wore plain robes and shirts with straight or diagonal colors, and simple silk head coverings. Women often wore the 'bades' style, which included a knee-length outer jacket with a straight collar, wide or narrow sleeves, and slits over long undergarments.
What types of skirts were popular in the Song Dynasty?
-The Song Dynasty inherited skirts from the Tang Dynasty and they came in many styles. The 'Tulip skirt' was dyed with tulip grass, retaining the flowers' fragrance, and the '100 pleated skirt' had pleats all over with tiny folds between them.
How did the Mongols influence Chinese fashion when they established the Yuan Dynasty?
-The Mongols brought a great fashion sense to China with the establishment of the Yuan Dynasty. They introduced clothing like 'jiu' and 'pannu', which combined hunt and Mongol culture and were popular across all social classes. They also favored horse-related attire, such as the 'war pannu', a double-sided leather coat without collar or sleeves, allowing for ease of movement on horseback.
What were some of the distinctive fashion rules in the Ming Dynasty?
-In the Ming Dynasty, an elaborate clothing system was developed that outlined styles for formal and daily wear across different social classes. Officials wore robes and gowns with circle colors, wide sleeves, black edges, and a black ribbon hanging belt. The gowns had square embroidery on the front and back with patterns that varied by social class, such as birds for civil officials, mammals for military officials, and dragons for the emperor.
What types of accessories were popular for men in the Ming Dynasty?
-Men in the Ming Dynasty had several dozen styles of headdresses to choose from, making accessories an important part of their attire.
How did the fashion for women in the Ming Dynasty Court differ from that of common women?
-Women of the Ming Dynasty Court wore big sleeves, short tops decorated with crowns, and long shawls with phoenix and flower decorations, as well as gold or jade hangings. In contrast, common women wore plain gowns, coats, shawls, and short tops, usually with a skirt and a 'patty' robe.
What was distinctive about the fashion of the Qing Dynasty, particularly for men?
-The Qing Dynasty, which was established by the Manchurians, is probably most recognizable for the men's hairstyle where they shaved the front part of the head and wore a ponytail at the back. They also adopted Manchu-style clothing characterized by a rectangular waistless silhouette, short narrow sleeves, saddle-shaped collars, plate buttons, and ordered designs.
What is the origin of the traditional garment known as the 'Qipao' or 'Cheongsam'?
-The 'Qipao' or 'Cheongsam' is actually a Manchu invention from the Qing Dynasty. It was adopted by the Han Chinese and became one of the most well-known traditional garments. The name 'Qipao' comes from the Manchu people, also known as the Banner people, as the Manchu rulers organized their people into banners.
What were the 'flower pot shoes' or 'horse hoof shoes' worn by Manchu women like?
-The Manchu women were known for wearing 'flower pot shoes' or 'horse hoof shoes', which had a 4-inch high raised platform not at the heel but at the center of the shoes. These shoes made the women look taller and more slender but were challenging to run in.
How did the practice of foot binding relate to the fashion of the Qing Dynasty?
-Foot binding was a common practice during the Qing Dynasty, where women's feet were bound to achieve a small 'lotus foot' that fit into a shoe resembling a child's size. This practice was painful and led to lifelong disabilities, contrasting with the more comfortable 'flower pot shoes' that were also worn during the same period.
Outlines
👘 Fashion of the Song Dynasty
The video segment discusses the fashion during the Song Dynasty, emphasizing conservative moral values and simplicity. Men wore plain robes and shirts with straight or diagonal colors, along with silk head coverings. Women favored the 'bades' style, which included a knee-length outer jacket with a straight collar and wide or narrow sleeves. Grand sleeves were also popular among those with high social status. The Song Dynasty continued the skirt styles from the Tang Dynasty, such as the tulip skirt and the 100-pleated skirt. The Mongols' invasion led to the establishment of the Yuan Dynasty, which introduced new clothing styles like the 'TR and dresses' and the 'P War panu' leather coat. Despite being an invasion, the Mongols contributed positively to Chinese fashion.
👑 Ming and Qing Dynasties' Fashion
This part of the script covers the Ming Dynasty's elaborate clothing system that took over 20 years to develop, with strict rules for formal and daily wear across different social classes. Officials wore robes and gowns with specific colors and embroidery, while common men wore plain long gowns. Accessories like headdresses were also important. Court ladies wore big-sleeved tops with crowns and long shawls decorated with phoenix and flower motifs. The Qing Dynasty, dominated by the Manchurians, saw the adoption of Manchu-style clothing, including the famous 'Chow' and the unique 'flower pot' shoes. The script also touches on the practice of foot binding, which was prevalent during this period, and contrasts it with the more comfortable Manchu shoes.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Fashion Week
💡Tong Dynasty
💡S Dynasty
💡Mongols
💡Yuan Dynasty
💡Ming Dynasty
💡Qing Dynasty
💡Chow
💡Foot Binding
💡Fashion Philosophy
Highlights
Introduction to the continuation of the ancient Chinese dynasties fashion series.
Transition from the opulent Tong Dynasty to the conservative S Dynasty emphasizing simplicity.
Men's fashion in the S Dynasty featured plain robes and silk head coverings.
Women's fashion in the S Dynasty included the 'bades' style with knee-length outer jackets.
Inheritance of Tong Dynasty skirt styles in the Song Dynasty with the addition of new styles like the Tulip skirt.
Mongols' invasion of China and their significant influence on Chinese fashion.
The establishment of the Yen Dynasty and the incorporation of Mongol fashion into Chinese history.
Popularity of TR and dresses during the Yen Dynasty, combining hunt and Mongol culture.
The P War panu, a double-sided leather coat, became a popular attire for horseback riding and hunting.
Ming Dynasty's elaborate clothing system took over 20 years to develop, reflecting styles from previous dynasties.
Ming Dynasty officials wore robes and gowns with specific embroidery indicating their rank.
The emperor's robe featured the dragon embroidery, a symbol of imperial power.
Common men in the Ming Dynasty wore plain long gowns without the elaborate embroidery seen in higher classes.
Court ladies in the Ming Dynasty wore big sleeves and long Shaws with Phoenix and flower decorations.
Chin Dynasty fashion, though not part of traditional Chinese clothing, is included due to its historical significance.
The Chin Dynasty is known for the Manchu queue hairstyle and the adoption of Manchu style clothing.
The Chow, a traditional garment, was actually a Manchu invention and became widely popular.
Manchurian ladies were known for their unique 'flower pot' shoes with raised soles at the center.
Discussion on the practice of foot binding during the Chin Dynasty and its impact on women.
Closing remarks and a call to action for viewers to subscribe and support the channel.
Transcripts
hey guys welcome to off the Great Wall
it's Mikey it's Danny so we had a lot of
good comments about the last uh Fashion
Week video we did so we wanted to do
part two and guide you all the way
through the rest of the ancient Chinese
dynasties I like to think that it's cuz
we look so good yeah my t-shirt anyway
we last left off at the Glorious Tong
Dynasty so let's travel a bit further
ahead to the S Dynasty this was a time
of conservative moral values when
Simplicity trumped opulence and
flamboyance quite the 180 from The
Fabulous Tong Dynasty but sometimes you
just got to stick to the basics you know
men wore plain robes and shirts with
either straight colors or diagonal
colors crossed to the right side they
wore simple silk head coverings the most
popular being the D po rap named after
the famous poet sud po women often wore
the bades style which consisted of a
kneel length outer jacket with a
straight collar w wide or narrow sleeves
and slits over 2T long under both
armpits armpits I hope they had
deodorant back in the old days Grand
sleeves were also popular for those with
high social status and were worn with a
long skirt a colorful soaked Shaw and a
hanging Jade piece Song Dynasty skirts
were inherited from the tongue Dynasty
and came in many styles including the
Tulip skirt which was dyed with tulip
grass and kept the flowers fragrance and
and the 100 pleated skirt which had
pleat all over and then tiny folds
between those pleat but now we put those
pretty skirts on hold as the Mongols are
attacking but don't worry they may have
invaded China but they brought with them
a great fashion sense and some sick
clothing so it's all good the Mongols
established the Yen Dynasty and while
their clothing styles are technically
considered ethnic and not traditional
Chinese will still consider it a part of
the history of Chinese fashion as a
whole you know what I love the Mongols
brought over what's that uh hot pot and
barbecue oh yeah skewers you know what I
love what the the hawk on Gus Khan's
shoulder they brought over uh just just
stop stop TR and dresses which combined
hunt and Mongol culture were popular for
all social classes and could be made
from a variety of materials the Mongols
also had a thing for horses but you
couldn't really go Galloping
dramatically across the plane on
Horseback with a long billowing skirt
that just spelled trouble so instead
many people wore the P War panu a
double-sided leather coat with no colar
or sleeves that was shorter in the front
with the B you could ride horseback and
hunt in style but when they weren't
Galloping across the plains the ladies
of the higher classes didn't hesitate to
dress up they were long loose gowns with
moon-shaped shoulders wide sleeves and
narrow cuffs decorated with red and gold
embroidered brocades fur and silk
Aristocrats who were Mongolians also
like to wear leather Martin and sheep
skin coats and hats nice after the fall
of the Mongols we find ourselves in the
Ming Dynasty which took fashion advice
from the dynasties of the past the Joe
Hong Tong and S this Dynasty's elaborate
clothing system which outlined styles
for formal and daily wear for all
different social classes took over 20
years to fully develop Ming Dynasty
fashion rules were serious business
people in the Ming Dynasty preferred
loose billowing clothes officials mainly
wore robes and gowns with circle colors
wide sleeves black edges and a black
ribbon hanging belt gowns had Square
embroidery on the front and back with
patterns that vary by social class civil
officials were embroidered Birds while
military officials were embroidered
mammals and the emperor wore the dragon
of course yeah ordinary men didn't get
pretty animals on their clothes
Unfortunately they were plain straight
long gowns and dos gowns and of course
no outfit is complete without
accessories men could choose from
several dozen styles of headdresses dude
I love accessories I know you do too
much meanwhile the ladies of the Court
wore big sleeves short tops decorated
crowns and long Shaws with Phoenix and
flower decorations and gold or Jade
hangings so basically all the top dogs
got to flaunt animal stitchings on their
clothes uh and for common women no fancy
phoenixes only plain gowns coats Shaws
and short tops usually worn with a skirt
and Patty robe a rectangular piece of
fabric spliced with many other pieces of
fabric like a Patty field hey dude in
modern days I would embroider mine with
a
Pokemon yeah you would yeah I would yeah
that's not cool okay Ming Dynasty skirts
were often pleated light colored and
simple at least in the beginning but
enough is Never Enough when it comes to
Glitz and glamour so while early skirts
only had order designs on the bottom 2
in later skirts were much more highly
decorated finally we reached the Chin
Dynasty which is when the manchurians
took over China so Chin Dynasty fashion
technically isn't a part of Hong
clothing but we couldn't bring ourselves
to leave it out so here we go about the
Ching Dynasty probably the most
recognizable style is the hairstyle of
the men where they shave the front part
of the head and have a little ponytail
on the back a big ponytail yeah and then
like there's one guy I saw a movie he
trained his ponytail to be like a whip
seen he was like whipping people with it
and he was called God whip the Chinese
adopted murrian style clothing which was
characterized by a rectangular waistless
silhouette short narrow sleeves Saddles
shaped collars plate buttons and ordered
designs and of course one of the most
well-known traditional garments is the
Chow but it might surprise you to know
that this is actually a Manon invention
can I just say uh Chow is one of my
favorite favorite favorite like outfits
for f I love it love it this looks so
beautiful the name comes from the chi
people another name for the manchurians
Manu rulers organize their people into
banners or Chi and call them Banner
people or Chan so their dress came to be
known as the banner dress Cho Manchurian
ladies were also well known for their
shoes ladies you think your high heels
are a pain check out these crazy heels
the Manu flower pot shoes or horse hoof
shoes had 4 in high raised SES not at
the end where the heel is but at the
center of the shoes these shoes made the
ladies look taller and more slender
imagine like uh if you were in these
shoes and someone was chasing you oh
yeah how how would you run in those
actually I think those shoes are a lot
better for women's feet than high heels
yeah I heard like women if you were high
heels for a long time oh it's going to
war feet yeah actually messes you up
really B it actually really it also
messes up your whole your whole
everything but this is also the time
when uh binding the feet was common
place so a lot of these women they will
squeeze into like a looks like a little
kids shoe oh man that lasted for a long
long time there's some creepy uh posts
on the internet about that stuff can I
just say uh you got the good looking
Chapa but I don't envy what you guys
have to do to make yourself look good
every day yeah I'm so glad every day I
wake up and I say to myself Dan so glad
you're a dude yeah I say that every time
I'm at a event or at a conference a
concert when the lying out of lady's
bathroom is a mile long and I go to the
men's bathroom that's right just walk
right in yep DN we should do a video
about how awesome it is to be a dude
yeah all right let's not do love yeah
our lady viewers you guys are awesome
anyway guys thanks so much for watching
let us know if you like this video and
uh please subscribe and continue to
support our Channel thanks so much later
bye
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