Growing a Bonsai from a Cutting

Summary

This lecture focuses on the art of bonsai propagation through cuttings, which is often easier than starting from seeds. It covers selecting the right plant species and cuttings, with emphasis on broadleaf evergreens like Satsuki Azalea and boxwood. The process includes preparing the cutting, using hormones to encourage root growth, and proper aftercare. Timing is crucial, with different seasons recommended for hardwood and softwood cuttings. The lecture also discusses the use of misting systems and bottom heat to maintain moisture and promote root development, ensuring a higher success rate in creating healthy bonsai plants.

Takeaways

• 🌱 Creating bonsai from cuttings is generally easier than from seeds, though some species are more challenging, like pine.
• 🌿 Broadleaf evergreens, such as Satsuki Azalea, boxwood, and hollies, are particularly easy to grow from cuttings.
• ✂️ The time of year is crucial when taking cuttings—hardwood cuttings are usually taken in fall or winter, while juniper cuttings are taken during the growing season.
• 🧪 Hormones are important for promoting callus formation, which leads to root growth. Different types of hormones (powder, gel) can be used.
• 📏 Longer, thicker cuttings with more stored energy are more successful. Aim for around eight inches for the best results.
• 🌞 Lighting and misting are key to successful cuttings. Cuttings need light to encourage root growth and misting to maintain moisture.
• 🔥 Bottom heat can speed up root growth, especially for hardwood cuttings, by maintaining the right temperature for root development.
• 🪴 The depth and type of soil are important. Cuttings should be planted in deep pots (about three inches) to encourage strong roots.
• 💧 Using a misting system, or even misting by hand, helps keep the cuttings hydrated, especially during sunny, windy days.
• 🌳 After one or two years, the cuttings will grow stronger and can be separated. Wiring may be used to shape them, but care is needed to avoid damaging roots.

Q & A

What are the advantages of creating bonsai from cuttings compared to growing from seed?

Creating bonsai from cuttings is generally easier and faster than growing from seed. Some species are difficult to grow from cuttings, but others, such as broadleaf evergreens, are much easier.

Which species are considered easy and difficult to grow from cuttings?

Broadleaf evergreens like Satsuki Azalea, boxwood, and hollies are easy to grow from cuttings. However, it is difficult, if not impossible, to grow pine species from cuttings.

What is the best time of year to take hardwood cuttings?

Hardwood cuttings are usually taken in fall or winter, when they can form a callus. Roots typically begin to grow in the spring.

How does the use of rooting hormone benefit the cuttings?

Rooting hormone helps cuttings form a callus, from which roots can develop. The roots generally grow from the area above the cut end, not directly from the cut side.

What is the ideal length for a cutting when preparing it for bonsai propagation?

Cuttings should ideally be about eight inches long. Longer cuttings tend to have more stored energy and nutrition, improving their chances of rooting.

How should cuttings be placed in the soil for bonsai propagation?

Cuttings should be inserted about three inches deep into a deep pot, with good contact between the soil and the cutting. Using a chopstick to create the hole beforehand can help.

Why is it important to keep cuttings out of the wind but still in good light?

Cuttings need good light to promote root growth, but exposure to wind can dry them out quickly, which would hinder their ability to root.

What is the role of misting and bottom heat in bonsai propagation from cuttings?

Misting helps keep cuttings hydrated since they lack roots to absorb water. Bottom heat, especially for hardwood cuttings, can help speed up the callus and root formation process.

How do you know when bonsai cuttings have successfully rooted?

After a month or two, you can lightly tug on the cuttings. If they resist being pulled, they have likely formed roots. They should not be separated for at least a year, as the roots are fragile.

Why is it beneficial to wire bonsai cuttings early in the propagation process?

Wiring cuttings early, before they thicken, allows you to shape the trunk with gentle bends. If you wait too long, the trunk will become too rigid to manipulate easily without damaging the roots.

Outlines

00:00

🌱 Bonsai Cuttings: The Basics

This paragraph introduces the concept of creating bonsai from cuttings, which is an easier method compared to starting from seed. It highlights the varying ease with which different species can be propagated through cuttings, with some broadleaf evergreens like Satsuki Azalea, boxwood, and hollies being particularly simple. The speaker discusses the importance of using hormone to encourage root growth and the significance of the time of year for taking cuttings, with hardwood cuttings typically taken in fall or winter and juniper cuttings during the growing season. The necessity of a misting system for softwood cuttings of deciduous trees is also mentioned, setting the stage for a deeper dive into the propagation process.

05:04

🪴 Preparing and Planting Cuttings

The speaker provides a detailed guide on how to prepare cuttings for propagation. They advise against using small or short extensions, recommending instead to use long ones with at least eight inches for better success. The importance of selecting cuttings with stored energy and nutrients is emphasized, as thicker cuttings are more likely to root successfully. The use of hormone is explained, with a demonstration of how to dip the cuttings into a diluted hormone solution to promote callus and root development. The paragraph concludes with a discussion on soil selection for cuttings, suggesting a deep pot and the use of a soil that provides both water and nutrition, as well as the technique of inserting the cuttings at an angle to create an interesting base for the future bonsai.

10:06

🌤️ Environmental Control for Cuttings

This section delves into the environmental factors crucial for the success of cuttings, such as moisture and temperature. The speaker introduces an automatic misting system with an 'electronic leaf' that regulates misting based on humidity and temperature, ensuring optimal moisture levels for the cuttings. The benefits of bottom heat for hardwood and conifer cuttings are discussed, explaining how it aids in callus formation and root development. The paragraph also touches on the importance of monitoring moisture levels and the transition from mist dependency to self-sustaining root systems. The speaker provides practical advice on when to transplant rooted cuttings and how to manage their growth, culminating in the creation of a strong, rooted bonsai plant.

Keywords

💡Cuttings

Cuttings refer to a horticultural technique where a section of a plant's stem or root is removed and planted to grow a new plant. In the context of the video, cuttings are a central theme as they are used to create bonsai trees. The script discusses the process of taking cuttings from various plants, such as broadleaf evergreens and junipers, and the ease or difficulty of this process depending on the species.

💡Bonsai

Bonsai is an art form that involves growing and maintaining small trees in containers, often with the aim of mimicking the appearance of full-size trees in a miniature form. The video script focuses on creating bonsai from cuttings, which is a method to propagate new bonsai trees. Bonsai is not only a hobby but also a cultural practice with deep roots in Japanese tradition.

💡Hormone

In the context of the video, hormone refers to plant growth substances, specifically rooting hormones, which are used to stimulate root development in cuttings. The script mentions the use of hormones as part of the cutting preparation process, where they are applied to the cut end of the cutting to encourage callus formation and subsequent root growth.

💡Callus

Callus is a mass of undifferentiated plant cells that forms over a wound, such as a cut, and is part of the plant's healing process. In the video, callus formation is discussed as a critical step in the rooting of cuttings. The script explains that roots grow from the callus, not directly from the cut end of the cutting, which is why it's important to dip the cutting in hormone to promote callus development.

💡Softwood Cutting

Softwood cutting is a type of plant propagation where a young, not fully lignified stem is used as a cutting. The video script distinguishes between hardwood and softwood cuttings, with the latter being taken during the growing season of deciduous trees. Softwood cuttings require careful misting and moisture control, which is why the script mentions the need for a misting apparatus.

💡Misting

Misting in the context of the video refers to the application of a fine spray of water to the cuttings to maintain high humidity and prevent desiccation. The script discusses the importance of misting for softwood cuttings and introduces an automatic misting system that helps maintain the right level of moisture for the cuttings to root successfully.

💡Bottom Heat

Bottom heat is a technique used in plant propagation where heat is applied from the base of the container to encourage root growth. The video script mentions the use of bottom heat, especially for hardwood cuttings, to speed up the callus and root formation process. It is used in conjunction with a heating mat set to a specific temperature to provide an optimal environment for root development.

💡Propagation

Propagation is the process of creating new plants from a parent plant through various methods, such as cuttings, grafting, or layering. The video's main theme revolves around propagation, specifically through cuttings, to create bonsai. The script provides detailed steps and considerations for successful propagation, which is essential for expanding one's bonsai collection.

💡Aftercare

Aftercare in the context of the video refers to the care and maintenance required for newly rooted cuttings to ensure their survival and growth. The script discusses aftercare practices such as keeping the cuttings out of the wind, providing adequate light, and maintaining proper moisture levels. Aftercare is crucial for the transition of cuttings from a propagation medium to independent plants.

💡Hardwood Cutting

Hardwood cutting is a propagation method where mature, woody stems are used to grow new plants. The video script explains that hardwood cuttings are typically taken in the fall or winter, allowing the cut end to form a callus before root growth begins in the spring. This method is contrasted with softwood cuttings and is applicable to certain species like junipers.

💡Rooting

Rooting in the video refers to the development of a root system from a cutting, which is a critical step in the propagation process. The script provides insights into the rooting process, including the use of hormones to facilitate callus formation and the importance of maintaining proper environmental conditions like moisture and temperature for successful rooting.

Highlights

Creating bonsai from cuttings is easier for certain species, like broadleaf evergreens.

Satsuki Azalea and boxwood are examples of plants that root easily from cuttings.

Cuttings from pines are difficult to root, and junipers should be cut during their growing season.

The length of the cutting matters, with a recommended length of about eight inches for better rooting.

Hormones are used to promote root growth from a callus, with options including liquid, gel, and powder forms.

Cuttings should be dipped in hormone for about five to ten seconds to encourage root development.

For cuttings, deep pots are recommended to provide enough space for root growth, with an insertion depth of around three inches.

Misting systems are helpful for keeping cuttings hydrated, especially for softwood cuttings, which require more moisture.

An automatic misting system, like the electronic leaf system, adjusts misting based on environmental conditions like temperature and humidity.

Bottom heat is beneficial for hardwood cuttings like junipers and trident maples to speed up callus formation and root development.

Rooting success can be checked by gently tugging on the cutting after a month or two to see if it resists pulling.

It’s important to wean cuttings off misting over time to prevent dependence and encourage stronger root growth.

In the first year, cuttings focus on root development rather than above-ground growth, with noticeable growth in the second year.

Wiring cuttings early allows for shaping, but care must be taken not to damage the roots during this process.

An alternative method involves wiring and bending the cutting’s extension before root development to avoid damaging fragile roots later on.

Transcripts

So in the last lecture we talked about creating bonsai from seed

and now we're going to talk about cuttings, which is a very easy way to create a bonsai

maybe even a little easier.

Some species are very difficult, if not impossible.

It can be very difficult to create a cutting from a pine.

But others are very very simple. A lot of the broadleaf evergreens can be grown very easily from a cutting

Satsuki Azalea is very very easy, boxwood is easy, your hollies are easier.

We'll talk briefly now about how to take your cutting, how to prepare it

how to use hormone, when to use hormones, some plants don't need it.

And then we're going to stick - this is a technical term, stick it into the soil. And then a bit of aftercare.

So time of year is another thing to keep in mind as a consideration

Your hardwood cutting is usually taken in fall or winter

creates a little callus, and then the roots begin to grow in the spring.

For the juniper, usually you want to take the juniper cutting

when it's in the growing season, so not when it's dormant.

And then there's also the softwood cutting

which for the deciduous tree would be sometime when it is still extending

and if you choose that option, then you're going to need a pretty significant misting apparatus.

And we'll share with you one of those in a little bit.

But first we're going to talk about how to prepare your cutting.

First what you don't want to do: ou don't want to try and take a cutting from this.

It might take, juniper is an easy plant to root.

On the other hand, you're going to have much better success if you take a cutting from a long extension.

Also, don't use a short little extension. Use a long one.

Give yourself a good eight inches or so.

We don't want it to be shallow.

That's about right. Notice I spent no time figuring out, you know, whether this is at an angle or whatever.

This is not where the roots come from. They don't come from the end, they come from all in here.

We're going to dip that in hormone before we stick it.

But first let's try the same thing up here.

Here's our trident maple shoot.

It's a nice long extension. Cut off the bottom branches on that

We want to leave some yeah, it has to has to extend - the extensions will grow our roots.

For these, it helps to be just ahead of a node, where we cut off some branches.

You generally get a fair number of roots coming from the node.

So while this is strong here

you don't want to take a little piece of it.

Or over here, although that might root for you

it's so skinny and it has very little energy in there, stored sugars and whatnot.

Something that's quite a bit thicker is going to do much better. Here's a really nice one.

Down here, that's a good size and has a lot of stored nutrition in it.

The juniper can create food, so it could be a little shorter

but I'd still go with a fairly significant thing. Don't try and make a cutting from a little tip.

So usually you're going to make, you know, 20 or 50 cuttings or something like that.

but for the purposes of our demo here, we'll just do a couple each, and we'll stick them.

All right, there we go.

All set to roll. We're going to put them in hormone now.

So I mentioned hormone. What does a hormone do?

The hormone helps us grow callus, and from the callus we can grow some roots

And as I mentioned, the roots don't really grow from where the cut side is

they grow from all throughout this region here, so we want to make a pretty good dip.

I just poured a little hormone in there, and this is - I'm going to make a usual, it's very simple, it's a 1:10

diluting with water. We swish that around a little bit.

You can use a powder, you can use a gel. There's nothing that says you have to do one thing.

Generally speaking, you leave your cuttings in for about 10 seconds, something like that. Five seconds.

For really particular plants, they can be very touchy about not only your dilution

but also the amount of time that you spend in there.

And then we're just going to let them dry for a little bit.

And then we'll put them into the soil in a little while.

Soil for making cuttings is as diverse as the number of people you talk to.

You can use many many different things.

I'm using the same soil that we're going to use throughout this conversation about propagation

which provides water and nutrition for the young growing plant.

We want our plants to grow strongly in the propagation phase, phase one.

For cuttings you want a deep pot. The seeds can be placed into a fairly shallow container

but for a cutting you want a deep one, because we insert them to a pretty good depth, usually three inches or so.

You can insert at an angle if you want.

I do recommend pushing in a chopstick first.

This isn't rocket science.

It's fun, it's easy.

So the angle is a way to start a plant that has some energy already.

It's a technique that can help you create an interesting base

you know, sort of like the first sentence in your paragraph kind of grabs you - it's your lead.

Unless you're creating a formal upright, this is a good beginning

and then you cut it here, and then you grow this out, you know, in a year or two

and then you already have some energy for your plant.

You don't have to do this. You can cut them - make them all straight up and down

because in a year, you're going to take all these out anyway.

If you leave them for longer than that everything grows together down there, and you have a big snarl

and that's a bit of a struggle to get apart.

So there's your cuttings. You want to water that in so you have good contact between the soil and the scion

and then you would like to keep it out of the wind.

Still in good light, because the light is going to grow your roots, these will open into leaves

and next we'll talk about a misting system, and possibly some bottom heat as well.

We want to create this. This is about a two year old juniper from a cutting.

And to be able to get there, we need to consider two things:

One, do we need bottom heat? The second is moisture.

We have a problem with moisture with our cuttings because we've cut all the roots off by making them

and so we have to supply the moisture by - usually it's mist.

Some of it is capillarity. We have soil here which is going to soak in a little bit

but if we leave that out on a sunny windy day, forget it. It's going to fry pretty quick.

So, here's a little trick for you to consider.

Although you can do it with your hand, there are many ways of misting.

This is an automatic system that is a lot of fun.

This hooks up to a sneaky misting system that sits over the top of the plants

and will run constantly unless you have it on something that will shut it off.

This is, I think, one of the most brilliant little inventions in the world of horticulture.

This is called an electronic leaf, and it has a very fine mesh on top of this leaf here.

It's set on a very delicate balance.

There's a little screw on the back so that you can create even a more delicate one if you want.

When mist falls from our mister up here, and hits this, it fills up the cells on there making this heavier.

This falls down, turns off the solenoid, which turns off the misting system

and then according to the humidity, the heat of the day

this evaporates, this rises, turning the misting system on.

so you can go off on your vacation, and you will have perfectly misted plants.

So although this is a complicated gadget, I think it's fun to share

and it allows us to understand ideal situation, to mist more when it's hot and sunny out

and to mist less when it's cool and rainy,

But you can just use a hand mister. That's the easiest way if you're only going to do a few pots now and then.

The next question that we have, is do we need bottom heat?

And for a hardwood cutting like this, that can help

because we have to create some callus down there over a period of months in the cool period of the year

and it can help conifers in particular, broadleaf evergreens as well

to create that callus and to root faster

because they tend to be a little slower in the deciduous trees to want to do that.

So the two cuttings that we made, the juniper and the hardwood cutting of the trident maple

would appreciate a little bit of bottom heat to create their callus and roots

the temperature of which is assisted by this heating mat.

And the heating mat plugs into the interior wall, and you can put it on a thermostat

and adjust it to right around 70° Fahrenheit or 21° Celsius

which will make your pot dry out, so you do want to keep up on your moisture level there.

But that will create a faster roots.

If you're creating a softwood cutting, you don't generally have to worry about the heating mat

because it's at the warmer time of the year, the temperature in the soil is usually spot on for creating roots.

So if you're in the cooler months of the year, you might want to put it on a heating mat.

If you're not in the cooler months of the year, you probably don't need that

but pay more attention to your misting, because that'll keep your cuttings hydrated

and give them a much greater chance of rooting for you.

After a month or two, especially if you are in the warm months of the year

you can find that your cuttings can resist pulling. If you tug on them lightly

and they don't want to come where you're pulling, it generally means they're rooted.

And after a few more months or a year, you can begin to separate them.

I wouldn't separate them any less than about a year though, because the roots are fairly fragile.

But once they've started rooting, you can begin to wean them off of the mist

That's important, otherwise they can get dependent on the mist and not root as well.

So this is where the roots begin to dry out the pot, and we begin that nice gas exchange.

That will grow a stronger plant.

So you probably won't see a lot of growth on your cutting in the first year

because it's colonizing this pot with roots.

And so you can get at the end of the year, and end up with something that's not much bigger.

This is a rooted cutting though, started about like that

and we can transfer it into its own pot, after one year.

And then at about the two year phase, we look like that.

And then they begin to grow exponentially, because it has this big root system

and you start seeing the shoots coming out. In fact, you can make cuttings off of that one.

So we covered how to make a cutting

and I want to offer an alternative idea that is specific for bonsai, to set us up for the next step.

You can imagine this as one of the cuttings that we made.

It's fairly straight and now has good roots, but we've missed an opportunity.

This is now fairly thick, and we can get some gentle bends in there, which would be fine for a large tree

if that's your future for the plant that you've just made.

However, many of us want to make smaller plants.

and we want quick little turns in the trunk, and we've lost that opportunity here.

The cuttings that we've made, that we stuck, they're going to create these little roots

and within a year, they still won't have grown very much

but we're going to want to wire it before they get fixed.

So you stick a wire in there, and you do your spiral wrap, and then you'd start bending it

but the problem is that the roots are so weak, that you'd end up damaging the roots.

So this is an idea that gets beyond that problem.

So for this alternative method, we have a plant with long extensions, and we don't cut them off...