My Dad's Internet Radio Boot Loops After Lightning Strike to Router???

Summary

The video shows the repair of an expensive John Lewis internet radio that was malfunctioning after a lightning strike. The radio would boot loop and make a high-pitched noise. After some troubleshooting, the issue appeared to be faulty output capacitors in the power supply. Replacing them seems to have fixed the boot looping problem, though the cause of the noise remains a mystery. Overall, it provides a good lesson in debugging intermittent electronic faults and the importance of those small capacitors.

Takeaways

• 📰 The video focuses on troubleshooting a John Lewis Internet radio that experienced issues following a lightning strike, highlighting the resilience and challenges of repairing modern electronics.
• 🔧 Initial repair years ago was simple, involving soldering a loose joint, demonstrating that some electronic issues can be resolved with basic fixes.
• 🚨 Post-lightning, the radio experienced boot looping and connectivity issues, suggesting that surges can cause complex problems in electronic devices.
• 📱 The use of Wi-Fi over Ethernet as a workaround for network issues showcases flexibility in solving connectivity problems but also introduces new variables in troubleshooting.
• 💻 Exploration of potential causes, including capacitor failure and impact of lightning through indirect means (e.g., scaffolding, telephone wires), illustrates the detective work involved in electronics repair.
• 🔋 Testing with a bench power supply and investigating capacitor health underscore the importance of methodical testing in diagnosing electronic device issues.
• 🛠 Replacement of suspected faulty capacitors with ones of incorrect voltage rating but correct capacitance highlights the role of experimentation in repairs.
• 🔌 Discovery that the radio works at lower voltage thresholds suggests that certain problems can be mitigated or bypassed through unconventional methods.
• 📲 The persistent hum detected during CD playback and its absence in other modes points to specific component issues, possibly related to grounding or interference.
• 🔢 The final resolution remains inconclusive, with the repair being effective yet not fully understood, reflecting the often uncertain nature of diagnosing and fixing electronic problems.
• 📺 The video concludes with the radio functioning correctly after capacitor replacement, though the exact cause of the original problem (boot looping) and the hum remains somewhat speculative.

Q & A

What device is being repaired in the video?

An internet radio made by John Lewis.

What was the initial fault with the radio?

There was an issue with a solder joint where the mains power enters, which was fixed in a previous repair. More recently, it had issues connecting via WiFi which was also fixed.

What happened after a lightning storm that caused new issues?

After a lightning storm, the radio started boot looping - turning on and off repeatedly. This happened after the storm caused issues with the internet connection.

What voltage does the radio's power supply output?

The radio runs on 15V DC from its internal switch mode power supply.

What components were initially suspected as the fault?

The output capacitors on the power supply were initially suspected, as they can often fail over time.

Were the original output capacitors actually faulty?

No, when tested the original output capacitors measured as working correctly. However, replacing them seemed to fix the boot looping issue.

What other fault does the radio have?

There is a high-pitched whining noise, specifically when playing CDs. The source of this could not be found.

How was temperature related to the boot looping fault?

When cooled right down, the radio would start boot looping again. This pointed to an issue related to temperature or components getting warm.

How long did the repair last before further issues?

Over a week later, after extensive use by the video creator's father, the radio was still working normally with no further boot looping.

What components will be replaced going forwards?

The temporary lower voltage output capacitors will be replaced by correct higher voltage Panasonic capacitors.

Outlines

00:00

😐 Introduction of the video and describing the internet radio that will be repaired

The video introduces an internet radio made by John Lewis that was expensive but has been having issues. The radio connects via ethernet or WiFi to allow streaming audio. It had a previous issue that was repaired by soldering a joint. Recently there was a storm which seems to have caused a new problem with the radio boot looping and not working properly.

05:02

🔌 Removing and testing the power supply

The power supply is removed from the main board to test the output capacitors. The capacitors test ok for capacitance and ESR. 6 volts can turn the radio on but it doesn't fully work. New lower voltage capacitors are installed since the required ones are not available.

10:04

😕 Reassembling and troubleshooting issues

After reassembling, the radio has a high pitched noise, especially on the CD input. The radio continues having odd intermittent issues. The voltage is measured at 15V. Various debugging is done but the source of the noise cannot be found.

15:04

🤔 Considering potential causes

With no obvious cause found, potential theories are discussed. A lightning strike may have caused the issue but it is unclear how. The capacitors that were replaced test ok. The noise and problems seem to be temperature related somehow.

20:05

✅ Testing in the cold

To test if temperature is the cause, the radio is left outside in the cold. When brought back inside, it starts up normally with no looping. Interestingly, the noise is also now gone. After extended testing, the radio seems to be working reliably.

25:07

😊 Conclusion and future repairs

In conclusion, the radio appears to be repaired for now by replacing the capacitors. The cause of the noise issue is still unclear. Output capacitors going bad is a common issue that applies to many devices, so this repair experience will help with future repairs.

30:08

🎉 Success and proper capacitors installed

As a follow up, after over a week of use by the owner, the radio continues working well with no issues. The proper higher voltage capacitors have now been installed to make the repair more robust.

Keywords

💡Internet radio

The main device being repaired in the video is an internet radio sold by retailer John Lewis. It allows listening to radio stations over the internet rather than traditional radio waves. The script mentions how it failed after a lightning strike affected the local network.

💡Boot looping

When troubleshooting the radio, it is observed to boot loop - turning on briefly but then shutting off repeatedly in a loop. This prevents normal operation. It starts boot looping after failed attempts to connect it to wifi.

💡Power supply

The radio has an internal power supply that converts the mains AC input to a lower DC voltage to power the circuits. The video investigates the power supply and output capacitors as a potential cause of faults.

💡Output capacitors

Capacitors that smooth the DC output of the switch mode power supply. Faulty ones can cause unstable operation. Replacing them seems to fix the boot looping issue, suggesting they had degraded.

💡Solder joints

Poor solder joints are mentioned as a common fault cause. A previous repair video on this radio identified and fixed a bad solder joint. Careful soldering is needed working on the boards.

💡Lightning strike

A lightning strike during a storm on the street is noted as potentially causing damage. It's speculated that strike current may have passed through network cabling into devices. Other houses also affected.

💡Ethernet

The radio normally connects via ethernet cable. After router failure, wifi used instead initially solved issue. Lightning may have entered through ethernet pathway before greater damage.

💡ESR

Equivalent series resistance (ESR) of capacitors is measured to check for degradation. High ESR can cause problems. One capacitor reading was concerning but likely just a glitch.

💡Intermittent fault

As issues only appear intermittently, confirmation of fault causes proves difficult. Environment seems to play a role. Intermittent issues complicated to conclusively repair.

💡Hum

A loud hum is noticed from the speakers when playing CD. Its frequency and nature is unclear. Possibly a result of some internal interference issue. Adds an extra fault to solve.

Highlights

The radio was expensive but now secondhand faulty units sell for £80 and working ones sell for over £300 on eBay

The radio stopped working after a lightning strike fried the router and changed the WiFi password

The radio now boot loops, coming on with the display but turning off repeatedly after 5-6 times

The radio now makes an odd noise, possibly related to capacitors or the power supply since it works then stops

Replacing suspected faulty capacitors with new ones fixed the boot looping problem

The radio has a high pitched 3 kHz hum only when playing CDs, not with other sources

The hum seems to be temperature related - it went away when unit was very cold

Can't determine cause of hum, readers with more expertise may be able to diagnose issue

Replaced capacitors had proper capacitance but were lower voltage rating of 16V instead of 25V

Running radio off bench power supply showed it works down to 6V input voltage

The radio runs on 15V DC internally, despite being powered from mains AC

Faulty capacitors can cause problems in many devices with switch mode power supplies

Output capacitors going bad is a common fault in devices with internal power supplies

Replacing output capacitors seems to have fixed this radio

Proper 25V capacitors will still be installed though 16V ones work for now

Transcripts

[Music]

hello there my mavin here and in this

video today we're going to be looking at

this internet radio here so this is John

Lewis radio cello was quite expensive at

the time funny enough I looked into

buying a secondhand one because this

one's playing up for my dad and a faulty

one is 80 something pound a working one

is over 300 on eBay at the moment

absolutely crazy so

I fixed this years ago in a video and it

was a nice simple one there was just a

solder joint on one of the on where the

mains comes in I think it was just past

a fuse or something that wasn't soldered

properly at the factory and all I had to

do was put a dot of solder on and then

it was all working fine and it has been

working fine the network side of it

played up cuz it normally plugs in Via

an ethernet cable but then I just went

over to Wi-Fi for him so my dad's like

really bad at technology and simp simple

things like if he mck up the preset on

this then he'll be lost but he loves it

because he can listen to things like

midr radio which is like an Irish radio

station even though he lives in London

so it suits him he listens to it every

single night I would say that this is

the most thing that he would use

technology wise so basically it's been

working fine on Wi-Fi until there was a

storm and basically the whole street was

talking about it the houses actually

shook there was a lightning St

and since then my dad's internet went

and I thought okay well sometimes his

internet does go but it turns out the

router was fried I got the internet work

again I had to buy a new router and then

I had to change the Wi-Fi passwords over

on everything and on this I went to

change the Wi-Fi password and it kept

boot looping so it would come up with

John Lewis and then it would uh when I

was going through it it would then just

go off and then it would come up with

John Lewis again and then it would go

off and it would do this about five or

six times and then it would die

completely until I turn it off at the

back and put it on again so I brought it

home annoyingly it's working but it

wasn't working first of all I plugged it

in and then it did the same thing again

I'm wondering is it capacitor related

because it's making a funny noise and

also this is another victim of the

lightning strike wherever that here now

the next door does have scaffolding up

and my dad's overhead telephone wire

because the Broadband comes through the

telephone was resting on that that

scaffolding I'm wondering whether the

scaffolding a big metal structure going

up to the roof height I'm wondering

whether that was where the lightning hit

and because my dad's wire was resting on

that although the wires are insulated

they're only going to be insulated up to

a certain amount and maybe if you got

hundreds of thousands of volts maybe

that's enough to break through the

insulation and run down there there you

go it's just gone off there you go you

see I didn't do anything and it's just

gone off there so obviously it's still

not right and annoyingly it was still

plugged in with the ethernet cable even

though it was working on Wi-Fi so

because the router went I think the

surge went through the router through

the ethernet cable into this here now

it's going to be a hard one to fix

because when I turn it on a lot of the

time it does work but it is making this

weird noise you can see now it's gone

off again so it's making this weird can

I hear it now no I can't hear it now but

when it was working it's making like

a sort of

noise right this is it back working

again but look listen to this

noise I'm going to put this microphone

right up to the

speaker now maybe that's always been

there but I'm thinking maybe that's part

of the problem okay so I'm

unplugged from the

mains now I seem to remember that it was

quite challenging to get into I think

but you know it's been a while now so I

can't actually remember if I have to

take the front off or

not I can see a load of screws around

the backs let's undo them I'm thinking

now that if there was a surge it's going

to be going via here but yet it works

you think that would knock out some kind

of like ethernet type chip on the inside

I'm wondering if now if this is just

coincidence and because it's been used

so much I'm wondering if it's the output

capacitors on the power supply cuz this

has an internal power

supply and maybe they're not stable

enough and that's why it's working and

then it stops working and perhaps it

worked more at my house than my dad's

cuz the house is warmer and maybe if the

capacitors are warmer they're going to

work

better so I just want to be wary the

fact that blaming everything on the uh

lightning

strike if it could be just complete

coincidence oo yes that was easier than

I remember okay okay now the hot glue

was that the work of me probably so this

is the little power supply here so

where's the oh and this is the output

here that goes into

here not going to be able to measure if

that's stable or not am

I there a couple of little capacitors

just here you can't see them but just uh

I want to be careful what I'm touching

because there still might be power in

here I don't think there will be but so

you see these two capacitors here I'm

wondering if I change those out because

I've got a feeling they're going to be

the output ones right let's carefully I

don't really want to get involved in

here let's carefully take out this power

supply so this is going to be the mains

coming in from uh from here to

here so that's there let's undo that

screw let's undo this secondary

connector so that's the low voltage

going out I think

let's undo these screws

here I'm being careful not to touch

anything because there might be voltage

this is a 400 volt cap here so there

might be voltage left in

this okay let's put this down safely

now let's just see if we got any voltage

in that big capacitor just

here so on

DC well yeah I've got 34 volts in it

still haven't I right let's uh let's

drain that so I've got these resistors

in here so this is going to turn the

voltage there just didn't it's only 30

volts anyway but it's going to turn it

into heat that's probably going to be

enough there we

go climbing right

okay safe so I am thinking that maybe it

could be something to do with these that

they're just not

stable there's 680 microphon are 25 Vols

how have I got them 680 that's a bit of

a weird one is oh here's 680 I've got

them but only 16

Vols ah these are 25 that's annoying let

me see if I've got them in another

pack no these are 470 and 1,000 let's

have a look at the actual voltage coming

out maybe I can put in a lower voltage

in this instance

here right it doesn't say here what

voltage is coming out

so the thought before was I think one of

these solder blobs here wasn't soldered

properly I think that's that's what the

fault was at the

fuse let's see if there's any indication

on here about what voltage is going into

it I can't see anything labeled up here

but there is two massive capacitors here

as well underneath all these cables and

they're labeled up two

2,200 microfi 25

oh that's

annoying see it might not be that at all

I mean I Wonder Could It Be where it's

going into here they seem very big

capacitors there don't they see this has

had a lot of use as in it' be on for

hours each night and I don't know when I

did the video but I think I gave this to

my dad before

lockdown I tell you what I'm going to do

I'm going to unsolder them and I'm going

to check them for ESR and also

capacitance

I'm just waiting for my desolder station

to get up to uh temperature I'm just

wondering I don't really know what

voltage this runs off do I so you know I

don't know is it going to be 25 volts

here or could it be as low as like 6

Vols or 12 volts or something so why

don't I get my bench power supply and

just put voltage directly into here

remember this is what's connecting up

here for the the mains but that's out of

it now so if I was just to put for

example 12 Vols into here we could see

if it's going to start working so I

start really low on 3 volts and it's not

drawing anything from the bench power

supply it's not even attempting to turn

on I go up to 5 volts and it does draw

on the bench power supply but nothing

comes up apart from a backlight on the

screen then I put it up to six volts and

it does actually go to John Lewis on the

screen that comes up but it doesn't go

any further than that so it looks like

it's partially working as low as 6 volts

if if we put 16vt capacitors in it might

well be working maybe the inside of the

this is going to be working on 12 volts

but we will discover the voltage it's

working on later on in the video hence

the reason I'm whizzing through this bit

now there we go welcome to John Lewis

and that's just at 6 volts I wonder

would I get away then it's gone off I

[Music]

think I wonder would I get away with

those

capacitors well there's only one way to

find out Vince and that's to pop the new

ones in so I desolder unsolder the

faulty capacitors and then I the

suspected 40 capacitors I should say and

then I pop in the correct capacitance

capacitors but the wrong voltage ratings

so there're 16 volts instead of 25 volts

I don't think anything too catastrophic

is going to happen it'd be different if

there were like 400 volt and I'm putting

in 16 Vol but 25v and 16vt I don't know

what this is going to be running at I

will will show you later in the video

what it's running at but at this moment

in time in the video I don't know what

it's running at so uh yeah that's what

I'm doing here now and let's test the

suspected 40 capacitors to see what

their capacitance is and also what their

ESR rating is things first let's just go

to capacitance on the

meter right so this one should

be 220

microfarad yeah it's pretty much is 208

I think that's all

right you never know they might have ESR

bad ESR on them this one should be

680 hope it's

out oh no 691 that's okay I don't think

it is

these no 696 well unless the ESR is out

I think they're just fine right what

should it be 680 25 Vol 680 well I

haven't got 68 I've got 470 and a th000

so 470 is 0.12 and 1,000 is 0.08 so

should we just take the middle off that

and call it round about

0.10 as the worst case

scenario no it's well under isn't it

it's well

under let's try this

one

oh yes hold on is that my dodgy leads

one second are they shoren together bear

with me it could be shorten

together get my hopes

up oh no it's just my my things were

shorten

together no that's all right do you know

what now looking back at that with the

benefit of editing I can see a different

view I see the view that you're seeing

which is straight down from the camera

remember I'm sat looking at a slight

angle I don't think my leads were short

in there looking back I'm going to show

you in just a second they both seem to

be separate from each other and I don't

think they're touching the actual can of

the capacitor so I'm wondering if this

capacitor here is slightly dodgy because

it was reading like 3 ohms or something

which is going to be well over but then

when I started wiggling things it went

down so I'm wondering if now this

capacitor could possibly be a bit iffy

let me show you again let's try this

one oh yes hold on is that my dodgy

leads one second are they shoren

together bear with me it could be

shorten

together get my hopes

up oh no it's just my my things were

shorten

together no that's all right well I'm

not so sure I mean I think the leads

were separate but it's just that the

reading was all over the place unless my

meter was just not settling it's just a

bit odd that it did seem to be over a

couple of HS so for me I'm still not

100% sure about that capacitor anyway

Let's test the last one 220 25 Vol so

this should be. 23 worse

case. 23 not. 23

no I think all those caps are okay right

I

mean it went faulty after the lightning

strike but I just can't see

how what if it was via the ethernet C

that's the only

way because if it was power surely it

would have take taken out loads of other

things in the house I mean this is

always plugged in but it's turned off at

the back well that's the answer if it's

turned off at the back a surge can't get

past a switch can it unless it was a

huge Surge and if it was a huge surge

wouldn't have blown it would have blown

the fuse would it not so unfortunately

everything kind of looks okay with this

it looks immaculate on the inside

there's no signs of water damage or

anything like that it looks brand new

but it has got a hum so let's put it

back together and carefully without

getting electrocuted see if we can

pinpoint where the hums coming from I

can use a plastic pital and maybe touch

different chips or capacitors and see

maybe there's something vibrating and by

touching that it may get rid of the hum

from the

speakers right I'll plug it in here

first and I'm going to turn it

on so unless those new caps go bang I

think think I'm going to be okay

obviously I can't touch anything here

otherwise I will be

electrocuted right let's plug it

in right it's coming live at the front

here I can see the uh the drn L thing

here so I'm going to get some internet

radio on and then start listening to it

for a while and then we might be able to

hear where the hum's coming

from

you know it's not picking up the Wi-Fi

from the from the other room but yeah I

can hear that noise but I don't know if

that noise was always there or

not I don't want to reach in here and

unplug the speakers to verify which

one's are making a

noise thing is it hasn't turned off yet

right Network time out leave it with me

for a bit I need to connected up to my

router in here and then uh I need to

just listen to to the music for a bit

and see what happens right interesting

cuz I don't actually think I'm going to

be able to fix it in this video it might

be a revisit video I've gone onto the

network wizard and when it started

scanning for the ssids as soon as it

went onto the scan the high pitch noise

has

stopped so maybe it really does have

some sort of faulty Network side of it

which is somehow drawing to much power

and causing the actual unit to boot loop

H anyway I'm going to connect it up and

see what happens so we leave we par

right it's only a minute later and I've

got Midwest radio working in here

Sherlock and he says Happy New Year to

you from SLO and all at the radio

station thanks for all the still seems

so weird reminds me of being a kid on

holiday right let's see if the noise is

there no that noise has gone what's that

about let me just go on to CD it was

just to say take Lo of Po and a

in po ah nois is back when I'm on

CD what is what does that

mean let me see if it's on anything else

Bluetooth no stop

there let's go to

Oren no no noise

there but earlier on I didn't on CD did

I FM

radio no nothing

there so maybe that's got nothing to do

with the uh the

problem it's just scanning for da

now it hasn't cut out yet though but I

have got the back off it so maybe

there's less heat being generated or

unless it's yeah unless it is an

overheating thing or is it just warmer

because I've

you know added the heat from the soldier

nine and stuff into the

board

only no squeal

there music player no squeal there

internet

radio and no squeal there popular so

it's only CD that's squealing now they

play all over yeah squeals there on

CD

interesting okay right leave it with me

for a bit I'm just going to listen to a

bit of Midwest radio

memory see I think what I'll probably do

actually is to make it safer I'm going

to put a couple of screws in here right

it's been about 10 minutes and I'm just

playing some Daniel odonnell of course

goes with the Midwest radio and uh I've

got here an app called let me just get

the name of the app

spectroid and the weird thing is that

when I'm talking you can see it's going

up and down here like you know if I'm

clapping you can see it's uh when I'm

talking it's around this thing here but

when I put it up to here and don't

speak you can see it's always up here

at it says

3,101

Hertz

but the electricity is going to be 50 HZ

isn't

it so if it was some sort of ground hum

wouldn't it be lower than

that and I think it's slightly higher on

the right speaker than the left speaker

so this is the left

speaker it's very steady isn't it now

let's go to the right

speaker

so I'm going to Google what that

actually means there and uh maybe it's a

common

thing this is really strange so

basically it's been on now for it must

have been at least 45 minutes I listened

to quite a few songs by Amy win housee

and I went back onto the internet radio

and it hasn't dropped out once I Googled

let me just lower this out I googled

this uh Hertz here so 3,000 Hertz or 3

khz and basically yes there are people

complaining of those hums on various

different things like guitar ramps and

radio equipment and other hi high-fi

equipment but there doesn't seem to be

an answer such as yes it's the diodes or

yes it's this or it's a ground hum it

just seems to be a hard one to trace so

I think I'm going to have to leave that

up to my subscribers remember I have had

this apart before so maybe I haven't put

some shielding back to where it should

be now interestingly the whole time it

was on CD it was making that noise and

then as soon as I went on to the

internet radio it stopped and now there

is no noise whatsoever but if I went

back onto CD it always comes back so if

I go to Source here and if I go back to

CD instantly it will come back there I

can hear it straight away but sometimes

when I go back to source and I go back

to Internet radio it will still be there

there you go it stopped but other times

it will stay there so is just a little

bit odd it's really really odd that it

happens sometimes and other time so

maybe it's something to do with

something that's switching on that

source button or whatever's responsible

for that source button isn't shielded or

grounded properly very very odd probably

when I was in there last time I bet I've

taken some foil away from something

where it's not grounding one of the

boards properly and my dad would have

just never noticed because he would have

it on quite loud because he's harder

hearing so uh yeah but interestingly it

hasn't dropped out at all and since I've

uh been to my dad's this only lasted a

couple of minutes and then when I

brought it back I think the most I would

have got out of it would have been maybe

four or 5 minutes so now for it to have

been on must be 45 minutes to an hour

and it's still working fine so uh yeah

for some reason it looks like those

capacitors may have fixed it even though

they're testing fine what I've done is

I've ordered up the correct ones I went

for Panasonic I ordered up 20 of them

for around £6 something and uh uh

they're supposed to be low ESR they're

the 105 degree ones so hopefully they're

going to be better than the ones that

are in here at the moment well it is a

bit of a strange one but today this is

the first time where it's just been

working nonstop up until this time and

my dad's it was only working for about a

minute when I got it back to my house it

seemed to work for about 3 or 4 minutes

and then start boot looping so we can

say it's fixed I'm just wary about

intermittent faults if I had seen a

bulge capacitor that I took out or one

with high ESR then I would say yippee I

fixed it but the capacitors I took out

all look to be okay yes one did have

slightly es High ESR for a couple of

seconds but then settled right down

realistically it was probably something

to do with my meter or the leads

touching each other or the can of the

capacitor with a bit of paint missing or

something I think that the wine is

nothing at all to do with the boot

looping I think the wine may have always

been there and maybe it's been there

from the very beginning because maybe I

didn't notice it before I was just you

know checking to see if things were

working I probably weren't concentrating

too much on the wine it's just that the

wine is uh it's quite off-putting when

you hear it but it is only happening on

the CD sometimes it will happen on other

things but then if you switch back and

back again then it's gone but it's

always there on a CD no matter what so I

do spend a little bit longer on the wine

I'm wary about sticking my hands in this

quite clearly when it's on so what I do

is I measure the voltage and it's

actually only running on 15 volt so at

least now we know it's 15 Vols it runs

on so it comes in on AC Mains and it

gets dropped down to 15 Vols DC so what

I do is I unplug the mains completely

and disconnect the lead from it and I

use my bench power supply to power this

now it's only on running on 15 volts DC

I don't have to worry about my hands

going in there and getting electrocuted

so I put it back onto the CD and I run

It Off the Bench power supply and

basically I touch all the different

components hoping that when I touch

something the hum will go away but it

doesn't so maybe this hum is being

generated internally somehow weird thing

is it's the speak it's coming from the

front two speakers it's not from the

subwoofer at the bottom it's definitely

the front two speakers but it's not the

speakers because when I swap them over

and unplug them if I unplug them both

there's no hum coming from the subwoofer

so basically it's only when I have I can

have one speaker plugged in the right

hand one I'll hear it I'll unplug that

one plug in the left one and I'll hear

it I can swap them over and I'll still

hear it the hum's coming from the board

somewhere but it's not from vibration so

when I touch the different coils and

stuff it doesn't change the hum so

unfortunately I can't show you what has

caused the hum on the CD player but

hopefully if you read the comment

section CU I appreciate that's the only

really interesting part of this video If

you read the comment section hopefully

somebody else who's more intelligent

than myself which isn't too hard will

hopefully have a good educated guess at

as to what the problem could be so if

you're curious have a look down at the

comment section hopefully other people

will have answered what I couldn't

answer I also try to use the scope

because one day I would love to be able

to use the scope to see something and I

think that would look great in a video

problem is I'm putting the scope on AC

on both speaker outputs and I can't see

anything there's no spikes happening at

all and then when I put it on the other

one I can't see it either then I put it

on to DC just in case there's some weird

DC leakage cuz I don't know what DC

leakage would sound like on a speaker I

don't know would it be like clicking or

something or whether it would create

like a uh a sound like we're hearing now

a wine I really don't know I don't think

it's ground hum because as far as I can

see the frequency is wrong so I don't

think it's to do with some different

grounds between the boards uh bottom

line is I just don't know what it is and

I can't pinpoint what the problem is so

anyway back to why this seems to be boot

loop in I think it could be something to

do with the cold cuz my dad's house is

definitely colder than mine so what I'm

going to do is I'm going to go to bed

now because it's late but I'm going to

pick this video up tomorrow and I'm

going to leave this outside because it's

winter here in the UK at the moment and

then if I bring it in from outside and

it starts boot looping we know it's

related to temperature and that might

give us an idea that one of the

capacitors are failing on the main board

so let's pick this video up the next day

when this has been outside for many many

hours

right so next day now or next evening

this has been outside for most of the

day it must have been out here for about

6 hours and it is nice and cold to the

touch so this has to now be colder than

it has been at my dad's house so let's

bring it in and see if it's boot looping

if it's not it means that somehow those

output capacitors that tested okay must

have been at fault and if it starts boot

looping we know it's nothing to do with

those output capacitors right you can

see how cold it is because it's actually

got

condensation on the glass there there

look at

that yeah so that's proof that it's cold

let's plug it in probably end up water

damaged now let's see if it's going to

work so turn it

on let's see if it's going to boot

loop connected it's looking

promising here we go

amazing

copyright and right now I can't hear

that sound just out of curiosity but I

can't fix this one

CD

oo that's interesting right now I can't

hear the sound how weird is that maybe

it's somehow temperature

related let me put it back to internet

and then go back to CD again

and now back to

CD it's so bizarre yes it's not making

that sound well maybe the sound only

occurs then when the unit warms up so

that might give you guys a clue as to

what the problem could be cuz I really

can't work that one out and also I can't

work out how to for find that so if

those of you who are more experienced

which is going to be most of you if you

could let me know what you think how you

would for find that because I think that

would be quite

interesting right okay just before the

end the video I'm just going to leave

this on for about maybe an hour and then

uh if it's still working I think we can

say it's fixed but how bizarre is that

when the correct capacitors arrive I'll

pop them in but I might be speaking too

soon yet let's leave it a good while and

see if it is still

working right well it's been at least an

hour maybe longer now and I had it on at

my house for half an hour and it's been

on here for about half an hour and it's

still working absolutely

fine and I've tuned in loads of other

channels as

well that took his

time there we go

so it's back in its home hopefully it

will keep working but I don't really

know why those capacitors fixed it

because the ones we took out were T

testing absolutely fine so I can't

really say that it is fixed but time

will tell my dad's going to use this a

lot more than for example the testing

that I was doing so I'm going to know in

about a week or so if it is still

working if it is I'll change out the

capacitors to the proper 25 volt ones

the Panasonic ones rather than those

cheap Amazon ones and then hopefully it

might keep on working and then if it

fails in the meantime at least I've got

more information to go forward if any of

you out there know why we had that 3,000

htz hum the 3 khz hum then if you could

let me know I'm just going to see if I

can hear it now let me just go to

CD no I can't hear it at all isn't that

really really strange so uh yeah there's

a lot of unanswered questions not the

most interesting video in the world but

at the same time I think the hum thing

is quite interesting on how you would

actually F find that so yeah that is it

for this video the end story is that

somehow it's working when it wasn't

before which is is always good but it's

always nice to have a full conclusive

answer rather than just guesswork

hopefully on the next fix we will have

something more conclusive right just a

quick update at the end of this video I

can't speak about the loud wine because

my dad wouldn't be able to hear that but

this is well over a week later now it's

the 14th of Jan I think I filmed this

around the second third or fourth I

can't rightly remember but it's well

over a week later he's been using it

every single night and sometimes in the

day and it's been working at absolutely

fine now the reason I jumped straight to

the output capacitors is because it's

not the first time it's happened in some

of the videos I've done it's come up

over and over again just off the top of

my head I'm thinking of Phillips air

purifier I'm thinking of Bowers and

Wilkins zeppin speaker Xbox One S

original Xbox I'm sure there's going to

be countless others as well and the

great thing about it is anything with an

internal power supply has the potential

to have the output capacitors gone so it

doesn't matter what the device is if

it's got an internal power supply and if

it's going to be a switch mode power

supply one then whether it's an

expensive Bowers and Wilkin Zeppelin

speaker or whether it's an old original

Xbox there's a chance that the output

capacitors have gone so it's a it's a

good thing to remember so even if this

video was a bit boring if you remember

it then in the future you might go on to

fix something else and hopefully I will

as well because the output capacitors in

this instance look like they were to

blame because I'm thinking the fork

would have read it L head by now because

it's been in use so much and before I

changed the capacitors it was failing

all the time so I think I can safely say

it is actually fixed which is fantastic

the proper capacitors have now arrived

so I need to uh sort myself out and get

them soldered in but it just seems to be

working fine with the capacitors in

there but obviously because there's such

low voltage rating then I suppose it's

going to be very close to the mark where

they're probably going to fail quite

easily so they will be changed so that

is it for this video thank you so much

for watching and I will see you all very

very soon take care everyone