How to Repair and Paint a Plastic Bumper Cover For Beginners - Part II

Ratchets And Wrenches
5 Apr 201514:14

Summary

TLDRDans cette deuxième épisode de la série vidéo sur la réparation et la peinture d'un pare-chocs en plastique, l'animateur détaille le processus de masquage, de mélange de la base et du vernis, et de réglage de l'appareil de peinture. Il explique également comment appliquer ces couches sur le pare-chocs. Après avoir réparé des éraflures profondes et des marques d'usure, il partage des astuces pour éviter les surjets et assurer une finition uniforme. Le but est d'obtenir un résultat professionnel sans avoir à faire de lissage ou de polissage excessifs.

Takeaways

  • 🛠️ L'épisode du tutoriel vidéo traite de la réparation et de la peinture d'une coque de pare-chocs en plastique.
  • 🎨 L'auteur montre comment masquer la zone à repeindre, mélanger la base et le vernis, régler l'appareil à peinture et appliquer les couches de base et de vernis.
  • 🔍 Il est recommandé de regarder la première partie de la série pour comprendre la réparation des éraflures et des marques de frottement sur la coque de pare-chocs.
  • 📝 L'étape de masquage est cruciale pour éviter les débordements de peinture sur les panneaux adjacents.
  • 🏷️ Trouver le code de peinture de la voiture est essentiel et peut être trouvé à différents endroits selon la marque et le modèle.
  • 🛒 Il est conseillé d'acheter la peinture, le réducteur et d'autres fournitures auprès d'un magasin d'approvisionnement automobile ou de Napa.
  • 🧪 La mélange des couleurs de base et de réducteur suit un rapport de 1 à 1, et il est important de bien mélanger le tout avant d'utiliser l'appareil à peinture.
  • 🔧 L'ajustement de la pression de l'appareil à peinture est crucial pour une application uniforme et éviter les taches de peinture.
  • 🧽 L'utilisation d'un linge à pousser (tack cloth) permet d'éliminer la poussière avant la peinture et entre les couches.
  • 🔄 L'auteur insiste sur l'importance de l'overlap de 50% lors de l'application des couches de peinture pour assurer une couverture uniforme.
  • 🛑 Une erreur lors de l'application du vernis a conduit à des coulées, nécessitant un ajustement de la pression et une application plus rapide pour éviter de futures erreurs.
  • ⏱️ Une attente appropriée entre les couches de vernis et une séchade complète sont nécessaires avant de retirer le masquage et de procéder à l'aplatissement des irrégularités.

Q & A

  • Quel est l'objectif principal de cette vidéo?

    -L'objectif principal de cette vidéo est de montrer comment masquer, mélanger et appliquer une couche de base et une couche de finition sur un pare-chocs en plastique.

  • Pourquoi est-il important de bien masquer la zone de réparation?

    -Il est important de bien masquer la zone de réparation pour éviter les projections de peinture sur les autres panneaux du véhicule, ce qui pourrait nuire à l'apparence finale.

  • Où peut-on trouver le code de peinture de son véhicule?

    -Le code de peinture de votre véhicule peut se trouver à différents endroits selon la marque et le modèle, souvent sur une étiquette à l'intérieur de la boîte à gants, sur les montants de porte ou, dans ce cas, sur une étiquette à l'intérieur du coffre à roue de secours.

  • Quel est le ratio de mélange pour la couche de base et le diluant?

    -Le ratio de mélange pour la couche de base et le diluant est de 1 pour 1, c'est-à-dire une partie de couche de base pour une partie égale de diluant.

  • Quel type de pistolet à peinture est utilisé dans cette vidéo?

    -Le type de pistolet à peinture utilisé dans cette vidéo est un pistolet à peinture à haut volume et basse pression (HVLP) de chez Harbor Freight.

  • À quelle pression doit-on régler le pistolet pour appliquer la couche de base?

    -Pour appliquer la couche de base, le pistolet doit être réglé à environ 25 PSI avec la gâchette ouverte.

  • Quelle est l'importance d'utiliser un chiffon de tack avant de peindre?

    -L'utilisation d'un chiffon de tack avant de peindre est importante pour éliminer les particules de poussière qui pourraient être présentes sur le panneau, garantissant ainsi une finition plus propre et plus lisse.

  • Quel est le ratio de mélange pour la couche de finition (clear coat) et l'activateur?

    -Le ratio de mélange pour la couche de finition (clear coat) et l'activateur est de 4 pour 1, c'est-à-dire quatre parts de couche de finition pour une part d'activateur.

  • Pourquoi a-t-il augmenté la pression du pistolet à peinture pour la couche de finition?

    -Il a augmenté la pression du pistolet à peinture pour la couche de finition à environ 29 PSI car une pression trop basse peut entraîner des coulures, comme il l'a constaté après la première application.

  • Que faut-il faire après avoir appliqué la dernière couche de finition?

    -Après avoir appliqué la dernière couche de finition, il faut attendre environ 2 heures pour que la peinture sèche, retirer soigneusement le ruban et le papier de masquage, puis laisser le panneau sécher au soleil pendant environ 24 heures avant de poncer et polir les coulures éventuelles.

Outlines

00:00

🛠️ Réparation et peinture du pare-chocs en plastique

Dans le deuxième épisode de la série vidéo, l'animateur explique comment masquer et préparer un pare-chocs en plastique pour la peinture. Il insiste sur l'importance de la bonne application du ruban adhésif pour éviter les surimpressions, puis détaille le processus de recherche du code de peinture de la voiture, l'achat des produits nécessaires comme le base coat et le clear coat, et la préparation de l'appareil d'aspiration. Il recommande également de regarder l'épisode précédent pour comprendre la réparation des éraflures et des marques d'usure sur le pare-chocs.

05:01

🎨 Préparation et application du base coat

L'animateur montre comment mélanger le base coat avec du réducteur en suivant le ratio 1 à 1, puis comment régler la pression de l'appareil d'aspiration pour l'appliquer correctement. Il insiste sur la technique de pinçage pour éviter les blobs de peinture et la nécessité de bien nettoyer la surface avant de peindre, en utilisant un désenfectant à graisse et un tacle pour éliminer la poussière. Il décrit ensuite le processus d'application du base coat en plusieurs couches, en veillant à bien le fondre dans le reste du pare-chocs.

10:03

🚫 Problèmes et solutions lors de l'application du clear coat

Dans cette partie, l'animateur relate les difficultés rencontrées lors de l'application du clear coat, notamment l'apparition de runs dues à une pression insuffisante et un excès de peinture. Il explique comment ajuster la pression de l'appareil pour éviter ces problèmes et comment procéder après l'application de chaque couche, en utilisant un tacle pour nettoyer la surface sans perturber la couche de peinture fraîchement appliquée. Il met également en évidence l'importance de laisser sécher le clear coat avant de retirer le masquage et de procéder à l'étamage pour éliminer les runs.

Mindmap

Keywords

💡Masquage

Le masquage est un processus essentiel dans la peinture automobile pour protéger les zones qui ne doivent pas être peintes. Dans la vidéo, l'auteur insiste sur l'importance de masquer correctement les panneaux adjacents pour éviter l'overspray, en utilisant du ruban adhésif et des bâches plastiques pour couvrir l'ensemble de la voiture.

💡Code de peinture

Le code de peinture est une référence unique qui identifie la nuance de couleur spécifique d'un véhicule. Il est souvent trouvé sur une étiquette dans le compartiment à gants, sur les montants de porte ou, comme dans le cas de l'Audi mentionné, à l'intérieur du boîtier de la roue de secours. Il est crucial pour trouver la peinture correspondante à la voiture à repeindre.

💡Diluant

Le diluent est un additif utilisé pour réduire la consistance de la peinture de base et faciliter son application. L'auteur mentionne que le diluent est bon marché et doit être mélangé avec la peinture de base dans un rapport de 1 à 1 pour le travail de retouche décrit.

💡Mélange de peinture

Le mélange de peinture est une étape cruciale pour assurer une application uniforme et une finition de qualité. Dans le script, l'auteur explique comment mélanger la peinture de base avec le diluent en suivant un rapport précis et en utilisant des cuillères à mélanger pour une meilleure précision.

💡Pistolet à peinture

Un pistolet à peinture est un outil utilisé pour appliquer la peinture sur une surface. L'auteur décrit comment régler la pression du pistolet, en utilisant un pistolet à haute capacité et basse pression, et comment le préparer avant l'application de la peinture.

💡Démaquillage

Le démaquillage est le processus de nettoyage de la surface à peindre pour éliminer les impuretés comme la graisse et la cire. L'auteur recommande l'utilisation d'un démaquillant pour préparer la surface avant la peinture, en veillant à attendre le séchage approprié.

💡Éponge à poussière

Une éponge à poussière, ou tack cloth, est utilisée pour enlever les particules de poussière restantes après le démaquillage. Elle est essentielle pour assurer que la surface est propre avant l'application de la peinture, comme indiqué dans le script.

💡Application de la peinture

L'application de la peinture est la technique utilisée pour répartir uniformément la peinture sur la surface. L'auteur donne des conseils sur la manière de peindre avec un chevauchement de 50% et de déplacer le pistolet avant d'appuyer sur la détente pour éviter les taches inégales.

💡Couvre-lumière

Un couvre-lumière est un accessoire utilisé pour protéger les parties de la voiture qui ne doivent pas être peintes, comme les phares. L'auteur mentionne l'importance de bien positionner ces bâches pour éviter l'overspray sur les éléments adjacents.

💡Couche finale

La couche finale de peinture est celle qui donne la finition définitive. Dans le script, l'auteur explique comment appliquer plusieurs couches de peinture de base et de vernis pour obtenir un résultat satisfaisant, en veillant à laisser sécher entre chaque couche.

💡Vernis

Le vernis est appliqué pour protéger la peinture de base et donner un éclat à la surface. L'auteur mentionne un vernis spécifique acheté chez Napa qui nécessite moins de cassage et de polissage après séchage, en expliquant le mélange du vernis avec l'activateur et les précautions à prendre lors de son application.

Highlights

Introduction to the second episode of a DIY video series on repairing and painting a plastic bumper cover.

Explanation of the importance of proper taping and masking to avoid overspray on adjacent panels.

Use of plastic covers from Home Depot or Walmart for comprehensive car protection during painting.

Locating the paint code for a car, which can vary by make and model, often found on stickers inside the vehicle.

Purchasing the correct paint and reducer from an auto body supply store or Napa for a precise color match.

Demonstration of the paint and reducer mixing process, emphasizing the 1:1 ratio for base coat and reducer.

Setting up the paint gun with the correct pressure for even application, using a Harbor Freight high volume low pressure air gun.

Thorough cleaning of the panel with grease and wax remover before painting, with a note on drying times for primer spots.

Use of a tack cloth to remove dust particles from the panel before spraying.

Technique for spraying paint with 50% overlap and the importance of movement before triggering the spray gun.

The process of waiting 15 minutes between coats and using a tack cloth to prepare the surface for the next coat.

Tips on blending the paint into the rest of the bumper for a seamless finish.

Mistake made during the clear coat application, resulting in runs and the decision to address it after the paint dries.

The revelation that increasing the pressure on the spray gun can help avoid runs in the clear coat application.

Final application of the clear coat and the need to allow it to dry for 2 hours before removing tape and masking.

Advice on leaving the repaired area under the sun for 24 hours before sanding down any imperfections.

Conclusion of the video with a reminder to subscribe for the follow-up on addressing the clear coat runs.

Transcripts

play00:00

hey what's up there dear sers welcome to

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the second episode of my video studos on

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how to repair and paint your plastic

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bumper cover and in this episode I'm

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going to show you how you can mask off

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and then uh how to mix both your base

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coat and clear coat and set up your gun

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and then apply uh both of both base coat

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and clear coat to your plastic bumper

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cover and if you haven't already seen

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the first episode where I repair some uh

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deep scratches and scuff marks on this

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plastic bumper cover I suggest you do uh

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I'll put a link to that video and the

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little new interactive video links

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YouTube have guys all right let's get

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started on uh taping and masking our

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repair panel and this is an important

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step which usually a lot of times gets

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overlooked and if you don't tape things

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up correctly then oh you're going to

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have overspray all over your other

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panels which uh you weren't planning on

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painting and it's not going to look good

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so take your time be patient and uh you

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know you know make sure you get the tape

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in between the panels the the panel

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that's being painted and the adjacent

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panel just try to guess the edge try to

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like get in between like your headlight

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and the panel and then tape

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up I like to use these plastic covers

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that they sell at Home Depot and also

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you can get them at Walmart for pretty

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cheap uh they cover the entire car that

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way you have nothing to worry about all

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right next is time to find our paint

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code and our uh the your paint code is

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look at in different locations based on

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your cars making Model A lot of times

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it's on a sticker inside your glove box

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lot of times it's on your door jams or

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in our case here for this Audi it's it

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was on a sticker inside of our spare

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tire ball next you want to take your

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paintco to your local auto body shop

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supply store or Napa some napas they do

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they do paint also and actually this is

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where I got this from I got half a pint

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for about 19 bucks uh and this is plenty

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for what we're doing here next you also

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need some reducer and you got to be MI

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mixing this with your base coat and

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reducer is pretty cheap I think for

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about 10 or 12 bucks you should be able

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to get a quart at Napa also also these

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mixing cups are great as well they have

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these little graphs on them that help

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you uh mix your paint and clear coat

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accurately all right next we're going to

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be mixing our paint and uh we're going

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to our mixing ratio for base cat and

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reducer is 1 to one which means for one

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equal part of uh for one part of Bas Co

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we put one equal part of reducer and I'm

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going to go up to go up to two that's

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actually going to be plenty for the

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touch-up we're doing actually no I'll go

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up to three just to be on the safe side

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so I don't have to mix again so if I'm

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going up to here which means on the

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first part of this graph if I'm going up

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to three to to add equal amount I go to

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the same number on the second part which

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is up to here so next we shake our

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can and right

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there and now we add

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reducer

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there we go it should do it and next

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we'll stir him and mix him thoroughly

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but before we put our paint in our paint

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gun we're going to set our pressure on

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this gun uh this is a harbor freight

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high volume low pressure air gun and if

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I remember correctly the last time I

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used it I uh used 25 psi with the

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trigger open so first we make sure our

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regulator is closed all the way next we

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connect our

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Airline and then we start slowly opening

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this up to get to about a 50 and then

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we're going to try it with the

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trigger nope it's way too low keep going

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60 that's too high bring it down a

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little

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bit almost

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there looks about 25 to me next we're

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going to put a strainer on top of our

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fluid cup and then we'll pour our pain

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in all righty next we're going to clean

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our panel thoroughly with grease GRE and

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wax remover keep in mind if you you

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don't have to go over these primer spots

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with our grease and wax remover but if

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you do then you're going to have to wait

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longer for it to dry uh probably a good

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3 to 5 hours would be

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sufficient and last step before we start

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spraying is to get a tack cloth and Tack

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down our panel and this will get rid of

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all dust particles that could be on our

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panel

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still

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and the way I'm going to spray this is

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that I'm going to treat these two repair

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areas this area that I showed you in the

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first uh episode and that area right

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there I'm going to treat them as one

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giant area one repair area and I'm going

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to spray starting from here to the end

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of that area the repair area and then

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I'm going to do two or three coats and

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uh after it covers our primary areas

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then I'll start blending that end of

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that area that area into the rest of the

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bumper and then just this little bit

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there's there's no really blending I'll

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probably have to go to that uh quarter

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panel anyway but I blended it into the

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rest of the bumper on this side all

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right couple pointers before I start

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shooting you want to make sure you spray

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these with 50% overlap which means like

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if you were covering this much with your

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your fan area was this much you just

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want to move down 50% and do your second

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run also you don't want to point the gun

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press the finger press the trigger and

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then move you want to move first then

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press the trigger cuz other otherwise

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you'll end up leaving a blob of paint in

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one spot and it won't be even with the

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rest of the the area so first start

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moving then you press the trigger and at

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the end of the run you let off the

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trigger then move down start moving

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press the trigger again it's going to

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happen kind of fast but you guys get the

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idea I

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think yeah I changed my mind I don't

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think it matters in the F first quote I

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just put on on the spots where I have

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the primer it'll help cover the primer

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areas faster next we're going to wait 15

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minutes and then we're going to use our

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tack cloth to tack down our panel again

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all right let's T it

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down and you don't have to go hard on

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this you know you can just just uh do

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this

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gently and we tack it down again and

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from this coat on I'm going to start

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from this end of the area and then going

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to go all the way across so I have a

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matching pattern from this this side to

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here and then uh and I'll slowly slowly

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start to go further and further so I

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blend this in to the rest of the

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panel

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all right and here's how things look

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after our final pass you guys going to

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have a hard time seeing anything in

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detail but uh yeah just towards here it

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just started to slowly go out and at the

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end just SP a couple of passes this way

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just to be really light on this side and

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as we got closer to the repair areas

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obviously we have more paint there but

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this is basically how you blend uh

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either repair areas or panels into each

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other and here's a look at a repair area

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I still haven't dusted this uh panel

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down yet after our final pass but uh

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yeah it looks pretty good and now we're

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going to have to wait about an hour or

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two 2 hours for this to completely dry

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and then we're going to start applying

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our clear coat and I guess while we wait

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this is a good time to start cleaning

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our gun all right next it's time to mix

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our clear coat and start spraying it and

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I'd like to introduce you guys to my new

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best friend which is this uh clear coat

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that I got from Napa and this is my best

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friend because after I spray this uh I

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hardly have to do any kind of wet

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sanding and buffing for the clear coat

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to look good and if you're wondering for

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one qu of uh this clear coat and the

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activator at uh Napa I paid about 37

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bucks if I remember correctly and this

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clear coat mixes 4 to one which is uh

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four parts of the clear to one part of

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the

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activator so there's our clear coat so

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next we have one part of activator so we

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just bring it up to

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here and there's our activator next

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we'll Stir It and next we put in our gun

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and again we're going to use a strainer

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and again make sure you thoroughly clean

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this gun and if you're wondering how you

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can uh clean your high volume low

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pressure air gun I'll put a link to a

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video I did again if you haven't seen it

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which was uh I did about a couple days

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ago I'll put a link to it in the again

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in the interactive video links that

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should be on your screen somehow and

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next we tacked down our panel one last

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time with our tack cloth and also should

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go without saying after you spray your

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first coat of uh clear coat you don't do

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anything with this you don't tack it

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down anymore

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okay all right so I forgot to turn on

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the camera when I did this but for clear

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coat if I remember correctly the last

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time I sprayed with this gun I ended up

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uh turning up the pressure to about 29

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PSI with the trigger pull so make sure

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you do that obviously you don't have to

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do that with the without the clear coat

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and the gun otherwise I just think the

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pressure with the clear cat in there and

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spitting out of your gun uh it's going

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to be somewhat difficult and messy and

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the way up apply clear coat is basically

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I start up top and then I go across and

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again it's going to be with 50% overlap

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and I'm going to apply three coats and

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we're going to wait about 15 minutes

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between each

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cup

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boom we got to run Houston we have a

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problem God damn it we got to run uh I

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made a double pass in this area right

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here by mistake and and I think that's

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why we got to run and I'm also putting

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these wet these coats kind of wet yeah

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what I'm basically going to do is just

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uh finish up just I'm going to continue

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I'm just not going to put any clear

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coats on in this area or this I'm going

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to put it really really really uh dry

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and make really quick passes and then uh

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we'll get those uh runs out when

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everything is all dried up all right you

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know what I'm going to bump the pressure

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a little bit I'm going to have to kind

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of do this blind but uh I think uh maybe

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our pressure wasn't high enough that's

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good be another reason why we got

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runs all right so now we're going to put

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on our final code and I'm I'm going to

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have no choice but to go over these

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areas where we got the runs because just

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because we need some clear coat uh

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around those runs cuz we're going to end

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up sanding Those runs down and there's

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no clear coats there's not enough clear

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coats around them then we're going to S

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through I'm just going to go a little

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bit faster though but uh yeah after this

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SC we should be done all

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right

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and here's how things look after our uh

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Third Run and uh it's a little orange

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peely you know the first coat I was

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putting on there it came out really nice

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it was nice and uh you know mirror the

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mirror finish you would wish for but I

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guess it's because our pressure was too

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low and when I increase the pressure to

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be on the safe side cuz they don't want

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get any more runs it ended up being a

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little bit more orange peely but uh

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that's the balance you're just going to

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have to find out I guess based on

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different uh guns you're going to use

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and uh the clear coats but for this

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clear coat then now we find out that we

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need to raise the pressure at least uh

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uh to close to 30 PSI so what we're

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going to do next is to just let this sit

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for about 2 hours then I'm going to

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carefully uh pull off the tape and the

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masking paper around our panel then I'll

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put it outside and let it sit under the

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sun for about 24 hours before I attempt

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to

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uh sand down this uh these runs and get

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them out and here's a close-up of our

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repair area and minus these guys it

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looks pretty good we got uh no scratches

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or scrapes showing uh we can't tell that

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there was Primer applied to this spot or

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there was any repairs down to the spot

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and with that said going to wrap this

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video up uh if you want to see how I get

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these runs out please consider

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subscribing also when the video is up

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and ready I'll put a link to it in the

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again in the interactive video links

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YouTube has so uh you can access that by

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just clicking on the icon that should be

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on your screen all right so again if you

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like this video please give it a thumbs

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up and I'll see you next time thanks for

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watching

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