How To Hide TV Power Cord And Cables | Easy Way To Move An Outlet

Summary

In this tutorial, Scott from Everyday Home Repairs demonstrates how to neatly hide the power cable of a wall-mounted smart TV by relocating the electrical outlet behind it. He covers the process without requiring drywall repair or painting, using a Zenith trim puller for minimal damage, a stud finder, and easy guards for safe Romex routing. The video guides viewers through removing trim, cutting drywall, installing an old work electrical box, and connecting wires with Wago 221 lever nuts for a clean finish that maintains the room's aesthetics.

Takeaways

• 📺 The video is a tutorial on how to hide the power cable of a wall-mounted smart TV to achieve a cleaner look.
• 🔩 Scott demonstrates how to move an electrical outlet behind the TV without needing to do any drywall repair or painting.
• 🛠️ The process involves removing the TV from its mount, scoring the trim, and using a Zenith trim puller to minimize wall and trim damage.
• 🔍 A stud finder is used to locate the studs, which helps determine the cutting line for the drywall and the path for the Romex cable.
• ⚡️ An oscillating tool with a wood blade is used to cut the drywall to the desired line, ensuring the cut is hidden by the trim.
• 🔩 The old work electrical box is installed in the new location, ensuring it's level and fits the cut-out perfectly.
• 🔌 The Romex cable is run through the wall cavity to the new outlet location, using 'Easy Guards' for protection around the cable.
• 🛑 Safety is emphasized by ensuring the power is off before working with the electrical components.
• 🔧 The new outlet is wired using Wago 221 lever nuts for secure connections, and a utility knife is used for precise cutting.
• 🏠 The drywall and trim are reinstalled, with attention to detail to ensure a seamless finish.
• 👍 The final result is a clean, professional-looking installation that hides the TV's power cable and provides a better aesthetic.

Q & A

What is the main issue Scott wants to address in this video?

Scott wants to address the issue of a dangling power cable for a smart TV mounted on the wall, and how to hide the power cable by moving an outlet behind the TV without drywall repair or painting.

Why does Scott remove the flat screen TV from the wall at the beginning of the video?

Scott removes the flat screen TV to ensure it doesn't get damaged during the process of moving the outlet and working on the wall.

What tool does Scott use to remove the trim without causing much damage?

Scott uses a Zenith trim puller to remove the trim, which helps minimize damage to both the wall and the trim.

How does Scott determine the cut line for the drywall?

Scott determines the cut line by measuring the height of the trim, which is three and a half inches, and deciding to cut at three and a quarter inches to hide the cut line behind the trim.

What is a 'stud buddy' and how does Scott use it in the video?

A 'stud buddy' is a magnetic stud finder that finds the fasteners holding the drywall to the studs. Scott uses it to locate the studs and plan where to drill through for the Romex cable.

Why does Scott use an oscillating tool with a standard wood blade to cut the drywall?

Scott uses an oscillating tool with a standard wood blade because it's sufficient for cutting drywall. He also uses a grout trowel as a guide to ensure a consistent and accurate cut.

What is the purpose of the 'easy guards' that Scott installs in the holes drilled through the studs?

The 'easy guards' provide 360-degree protection around the Romex cable, preventing it from being punctured by nails or screws when secured behind the drywall.

How does Scott ensure the old work electrical box is installed correctly?

Scott uses a torpedo level to ensure the box is level, traces the outside, and cuts out the drywall piece. He does a dry fit to confirm the box fits before securing it in place.

What type of Romex cable does Scott use and why?

Scott uses 12-2 Romex cable, which is suitable for the project because it contains two conductors and a ground, providing the necessary wiring for the new outlet.

How does Scott address the issue of the outlet being sunken in the wall?

Scott uses spacers on the screws between the junction box and the outlet's yoke to push the outlet out from the wall, ensuring the faceplate sits flush.

What final step does Scott suggest to complete the project?

Scott suggests applying a small bead of caulk at the top of the trim and possibly at the brad nail holes to cover them up and finish the project neatly.

Outlines

00:00

🛠️ Smart TV Power Cable Management

Scott from 'everyday home repairs' demonstrates how to neatly hide the power cable of a wall-mounted smart TV without the need for drywall repair or painting. The process involves removing the TV, detaching the trim, and using a Zenith trim puller to minimize wall and trim damage. The key is to move an outlet behind the TV within the room itself, avoiding the need to access a basement, crawl space, or attic.

05:01

🔩 Relocating Electrical Outlet Behind TV

The video continues with Scott explaining the steps to move an electrical outlet behind the TV. This includes identifying and marking the location for the new outlet, cutting the drywall with an oscillating tool, and ensuring the cut is between two studs to facilitate the routing of the Romex cable. The use of 'Easy Guards' is highlighted for protecting the cable as it passes through the studs, and the importance of a proper fit for the old work electrical box is emphasized.

10:02

🔌 Completing the Outlet Installation and Testing

In the final part of the project, Scott details the installation of the old work electrical box, running the Romex cable, and connecting it to the circuit. He uses a torpedo level to ensure the box is level before cutting the drywall to fit it. The wiring process is carefully explained, including the use of Wago 221 lever nuts for secure connections. After completing the wiring, Scott suggests using spacers to prevent the outlet from being sunken in the wall and emphasizes testing the outlet for correct wiring and functionality before reattaching the drywall and trim. The video concludes with a reminder to caulk the trim for a finished look and mentions additional tips for cable management.

Keywords

💡Smart TV

A Smart TV is a television set with integrated internet and interactive 'Web 2.0' features, allowing viewers to stream content from various online services. In the video, the Smart TV is mounted on the wall, and the focus is on managing the power cable to achieve a cleaner look, avoiding the cable from dangling or running across the floor.

💡HDMI cables

HDMI (High-Definition Multimedia Interface) cables are used to transmit high-quality audio and video signals from devices like streaming boxes or gaming consoles to displays. The script mentions that with streaming services, there is less need for running HDMI cables to the Smart TV, as content can be accessed directly through the TV's interface.

💡Outlet

An electrical outlet, also known as a socket, is a point where electrical power is supplied for the connection of electrical devices. The video script describes the process of moving an outlet behind the TV to hide the power cable, which is a key part of the home repair project.

💡Drywall repair

Drywall repair involves fixing damage to the wall surfaces made of drywall, a common building material. The script emphasizes avoiding drywall repair by moving the outlet without the need for repainting or extensive wall work.

💡Zenith trim puller

A Zenith trim puller is a tool designed to remove trim from walls with minimal damage. In the script, it is used to carefully remove the trim around the TV to access the wall cavity for the electrical work, illustrating a technique for minimizing damage to both the wall and the trim.

💡Stud finder

A stud finder is a tool used to detect the presence of studs within walls, which are structural supports. The script mentions using a 'stud buddy' to locate fasteners that hold the drywall to the studs, which is essential for planning where to cut the drywall to access the wall cavity.

💡Romex

Romex is a brand of nonmetallic sheathed cable used for electrical wiring in residential and light commercial buildings. The script describes running Romex cable through the wall to connect the new outlet to the existing electrical circuit.

💡Old work electrical box

An old work electrical box is designed for retrofitting into existing walls without the need for new construction. The video demonstrates installing an old work box behind the TV to create a new outlet location.

💡Wago 221 lever nuts

Wago 221 lever nuts are a type of electrical connector that allows for secure and easy connection of wires without the need for traditional wire wrapping. The script describes using these connectors to simplify the wiring process for the new outlet.

💡Back wiring

Back wiring is a feature of some electrical outlets that allows for the wires to be connected directly into the outlet from the back, simplifying the installation process. The script mentions using a commercial-grade outlet with back wiring to streamline the connection of the Romex cable.

💡Caulk

Caulk is a material used to seal gaps and create a finished appearance in construction projects. The script suggests using caulk to seal the top of the trim and nail holes after the trim is reinstalled, which helps to maintain a clean and professional look.

Highlights

Scott demonstrates how to hide a power cable for a smart TV hanging on the wall without drywall repair or painting.

He removes the TV and scores the top of the trim to prepare for moving the outlet behind the TV.

A Zenith trim puller is used to minimize wall and trim damage when removing it.

Side cutters are used to trim 18-gauge brad nails for reattaching the trim later.

A stud finder is used to locate fasteners for proper placement of the new electrical box.

An oscillating tool with a standard wood blade is recommended for cutting the drywall.

A grout trowel is used as a guide for making a consistent cut in the drywall.

Drilling through studs is necessary to route the Romex cable for the new outlet.

Easy guards are used for 360-degree protection of the Romex cable running through the studs.

Installing an old work electrical box in the new location is crucial for the outlet relocation.

A torpedo level ensures the box is level before cutting the drywall for the new outlet.

12-2 Romex cable is used to wire the new outlet, with careful measurement for proper length.

Wago 221 lever nuts are used for secure and visible electrical connections.

Spacers are utilized to correct any sunken appearance of the outlet in the wall.

Outlet testers confirm correct wiring and power to the newly installed outlet.

The final step includes reattaching the drywall and base trim for a finished look.

Caulking can be used to finish the trim and hide any nail holes for a clean appearance.

Scott suggests using cable access wall plates for additional HDMI cable management.

He recommends Ryan's 'funny Carpenter' YouTube channel for advanced trim work and caulking tips.

Transcripts

how's it going you guys it's Scott with

everyday home repairs and today I want

to show you how to correct an annoying

issue like this you have your smart TV

hanging on the wall it looks great you

don't really need to run any HDMI cables

to it because you can get all your

different streaming services now but you

still have the power cable that's kind

of dangling down or running across your

floor so how do we correct that I'm

going to quickly show you how you can do

this move an outlet behind the TV

without having to do any drywall repair

or painting so that's the key and we're

not going to be going down in a basement

or crawl space or jumping up in the

attic so we're going to do this all from

within the room so you get the power

cable tucked out of the way and get that

nice fit and finish look that you're

going for so let's jump into it first up

I'm just going to unscrew a few of these

mounting screws so I can remove the flat

screen get it out of our way so we can

start the work and make sure we don't

damage it then we'll go down and score

the top of the trim making sure we break

free any of the Caulk of that top

surface before using what's called a

Zenith trim puller which is awesome for

removing trim and minimizing the amount

of damage so you just work that trim

puller in and you can move it actually

side to side to start pulling that away

from the wall surface and again

minimizing the damage to the wall and

also to the trim because we want to make

this just an electrical project

then we can work that trim piece in one

whole piece away from the wall without

breaking in half once it's off then I'll

use some side Cutters to go ahead and

cut flush the 18 gauge brad nails so the

trim piece will be ready to go back in

at the end of our project

now the trick is we

just low the edge of the trim now this

trim

measures at about three and a half

inches above the subfloor so my cut line

is going to be right around about three

and a quarter inches so the cut line

will be hidden once everything goes back

in by the trim that we'll put back into

place and then it's good to know where

your studs are located one to know what

you're going to have to go through with

the Romex and two to know how far to cut

that drywall piece off so you can

re-secure it back on the wall after

you're done now I just use a stud buddy

which is a magnetic stud finder it

actually does not find the studs it

finds the Fasteners that are holding the

drywall to the stones okay so I found

one right here makes sense it's located

right on the left hand side of this

electrical box and then if your home is

newer most likely you have spacing that

is 16 inches on Center so 16 inches from

that stud you should find another stud

which we do so between those two studs

you're going to find 16 inches and

that's going to give you okay how many

studs am I going through specifically

for this project I will need to drill

through two studs then I'm going to be

in the middle of the wall cavity which

is going to give me the route right up

to my old work box that we're going to

install which is in the center of that

mounting bracket now to cut the drywall

we're just going to use an oscillating

tool with a standard wood blade you

don't really need a fancy drywall blade

but if you have one you can go ahead and

use it and then specifically I like to

have some type of guide so here I'm just

using a cheap grout trowel which is

three and a quarter inches which is

right at that cut line that I want which

will be below the three and a half

inches which is the height of the trim

so that'll help me guide through and

make a consistent cut and I want to end

my cuts right in the middle of a stud so

it's easy to re-secure that at the end

of the project now just go back through

and do a second pass making sure no

drywall is still attached attached and

then once we have that we'll cut that

corner out remove any of the screws or

nails that are holding in that piece and

then once those are removed I'll just

use a painters tool or some flat bar and

pry that out trying to get it out all in

one piece without damage

now this is up to you I do like to clean

up a little bit here just clean up some

of the drywall making sure everything

goes back in easily at the end of the

project

so I'm going to go ahead and drill

through these two studs those are the

two studs I need to take Romex from my

outlet here down over to the wall cavity

that we need now I'm going to be using

an inch and 1 8 spade bit which might

seem a little large but I'll show you

here in one second why I am doing that

foreign

now the why behind using such a large

spade bit a one and one eighth that's

well over a half inch or a three

quarters inch that you'd usually use and

that's because specifically I use these

things called easy guards to insert in

the hole what these are it's kind of a

better nail plate so a nail plate

usually you'd see on studs protecting

Romex behind it so you can't nail or

screw past that nail plate into the stud

and then Pierce a piece of bromax well

an easy guard is basically that but 360

degrees of protection so all I need to

do is insert these into the one and one

eighth of an inch hole and then tap

those in with a hammer and now I have a

complete protection all the way around

that piece of Romex that will be running

through for both of the holes we drilled

in the studs now if you need a reference

four easy guards or logo lever nuts or

that Zenith trim puller or the stud

buddy you can look right below the video

in the description you'll see a link to

our Amazon store the Amazon store is

organized in different lists such as

electrical or general tools or general

supplies and that's where you'll find

all these different tools and supplies

we use specifically the easy guards in

the electrical discs you'll scroll down

and you'll see there is a pack of easy

cards if you want to try them out on

your own projects now let's jump into

the last part of the project before we

actually run wire and that's installing

the old work electrical box in the new

location for our Outlet we'll start off

with the old work box and the torpedo

level making sure the box is level and

then trace the outside once you have

your lines traced out take the same

oscillating tool or a jab saw would work

as well and cut out the small piece of

drywall when you're finished you'll want

to do a dry fit just to make sure that

old work box fits and then pull that

back out because we want to run our 12-2

Romex down the wall and once you know

you have the right length you can cut it

and pull it through the old work box

then we'll go ahead and tighten

everything up making sure the tabs are

pulling to the back of the drywall and

the box is secure then we'll take a

utility knife cut off the sheathing

exposing our two conductors and the bare

ground

cut that extra off and now you want to

make sure you have six inches from the

end of the sheathing or three inches

also from the end of the box and then

we'll strip off the black hot and white

neutral

making a J hook in the ground starting

off the ground I'll tighten things up

with the ECX Milwaukee Screwdriver and

then go straight in the back because

this is a commercial grade or what's

called a spec grade Outlet so it has a

feature called back wiring so I don't

have to make a J hook on the hot or

neutral

once everything is secured for our three

wires

then we'll break off those tabs because

remember with an old work box you break

those tabs off and then that will help

everything pull flush to the wall

surface so your face plate sits flush

then go ahead and tighten up the face

plate and now we have our new outlet

location everything looks great but now

we got to get power to this location

so now to get power I have this extra

row Max I'm going to pull it through

those easy guards

getting past these two studs

and then I'll pull all the slack out to

this side

because we're going to Route the Romex

up into this outlet box and I do notice

that the outlet is sunken in a little

bit so it's pulling this face plate in

I'll show you at the end how to correct

that easily it's not a big issue but now

we can open things up and then get this

tied into the circuit so you'll remove

the face plate and you want to make sure

your power is off so confirm that with

an outlet tester on both of your Outlets

no LEDs so we're good to go

then we'll start to remove the two

mounting screws and pull the outlet out

of the box now each of us are going to

have a little different scenario here

some of us are going to only have one

Romex coming in and then other is going

to have sets like this where you have

two sets of Romex coming in now I just

want to clean things up because I have

another set coming in so I have three

neutrals three Hots and three grounds

coming into this box

so I'll clean up the old wires now

remember you want six inches coming from

the end of the Romex sheathing cut in

the back of the box and at least three

inches from the edge the surface the

wall surface of the box so I've pulled

that Romex up from the bottom through

and I'll cut out the sheathing and cut

everything to length making sure

nothing's too short

then I'll strip everything off and I'm

stripping off according to to what I

need for what are called Wago 221 lever

nuts

so what I'm going to do with so many

sets coming in I'm actually going to

pull together three pigtails to do that

I'm using the Wago 221

-415 that's five wire

lever nuts now there is no four wire so

I'm only using four of those slots

that's perfectly fine

and then I'll use a section of wire here

and that is the pigtail so this one

being the bare ground already has my J

hook on it

then I'll do the same thing for neutrals

pulling all the neutrals together

but then this time I will not need a J

hook because that's going to go into

that commercial grade outlet and that

has bite back wiring so just goes

straight in

and then we'll finish things off with

our hot side our black wires pulling all

those in the nice thing about the wagos

it has that translucent housing so you

can actually see that the copper is

making contact to the bus bars in the

actual connector we'll tuck everything

in I'm favoring the neutrals and grounds

on one side and then the hots on the

other side on the right side

then we'll put that J hook in the

clockwise Direction around the ground

screw connecting up our neutral and our

hot

now remember this was sunken in so I'm

going to use these spacers just one so

that's going to space me out between

about a sixteenth and an eighth of an

inch so that the face plate is not

sunken in and the outlet is not sunken

in so you just put those on the screws

between the the junction box and what's

called the Yoke of the outlet and then

that will space that out from the wall

surface

okay so now my power is back on and we

should have the wiring all completed

before I button back up the drywall and

the trim on the bottom we're going to

want to go ahead and confirm that this

is working so plug that outlet tester in

and I have the two amber lights which

equal that we have a correctly wired and

powered circuit so wiring is good to go

now let's button up our drywall and our

base trim now here is we're taking your

time at the Start pays off so if you

have one piece of drywall it should fit

right back into place you should be able

to use those drywall screws that you

removed securing either to the bottom

plate or to the studs that I have marked

with the blue painters tape

and then once that is secured you'll

bring that piece of trim in again if

it's one piece it's not damaged you'll

be able to set it right into place you

already took off the old brand Nails

then you'll put in new brad nails two at

each stud location to hold that against

the wall

take off the blue painters tape and then

here is the finished product

overall it looks fantastic and you

really can't even tell that we just ran

some wire behind it

now hopefully that helped you guys out

jump down in the comments let me know

what you think and also let me know if

you have any questions this is a much

better look fit and finish and it looks

great

now if you do have a little bit more

equipment you have something you do need

to plug in some HDMI cables you can't

get these cable access wall plates you

could install one right beside the

outlet they actually do not have

junction boxes so you cut a hole in the

drywall but you're just going to pass

those cables in the drywall and you do

not need to enclose that with a junction

box so you could put one up behind the

TV and then one lower maybe you have a

small piece of furniture with a little

bit more equipment and you need to pass

some wires so just know that is

available out there and you could do it

at the same time as you're passing the

Romex to get power now one last item you

might need to do is lay a small bead of

Caulk at the top of that trim that we

removed and also maybe some at the Brad

nail holes to cover those up now I'm

kind of an amateur when it comes to this

and the guy I go to is Ryan over at the

funny Carpenter YouTube channel Ryan has

a ton of videos that can really help you

up your game and trim work and

especially tips and tricks to caulking

to make it so it's not such a burden and

you get the results you looking for so

thanks for joining me on this video and

we'll catch you on the next one take

care