BAHAN BAKU KOSMETIK

Summary

In this informative lecture on cosmetic raw materials, the speaker explores various active ingredients used in cosmetic formulations, focusing on their roles, benefits, and safety. Topics include antioxidants, skin whiteners, vitamins, hormones, and serums, detailing both safe and harmful substances like mercury, hydroquinone, and vitamin C derivatives. The lecture also discusses excipients such as oils, surfactants, humectants, and preservatives, which aid in skin care formulations. The session provides a thorough overview of both active and inactive ingredients, ensuring a comprehensive understanding of the materials that make up everyday cosmetic products.

Takeaways

• 😀 Antioxidants, skin whiteners, vitamins, hormones, and serums are active ingredients commonly used in cosmetic formulations.
• 😀 Mercury, once widely used for skin whitening, is now banned due to its harmful effects, including kidney damage and skin toxicity.
• 😀 Hydroquinone is a popular whitening agent, but its use is limited to 2% concentration to prevent side effects like skin irritation and the 'rebound effect.'
• 😀 The combination of hydroquinone, retinoid acid, and corticosteroids offers rapid results for hyperpigmentation but can lead to skin thinning and other issues with long-term use.
• 😀 Vitamin C and its derivatives are safe and effective antioxidants in cosmetics, offering both skin whitening and anti-aging benefits.
• 😀 Gojek zip and arbutin are powerful ingredients that inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme, reducing melanin formation and helping brighten the skin.
• 😀 Licorice extract and green tea extract are also used for skin whitening and to reduce melanin synthesis caused by UV exposure.
• 😀 Estrogen and adrenocortical hormones (like hydrocortisone) can regulate oil production and improve skin health, especially for aging skin.
• 😀 Sunscreens and sunblocks protect the skin from UV damage, with active ingredients like benzophenone, salicylic acid derivatives, and zinc oxide.
• 😀 Vitamins like A, B, C, E, and D are often used in cosmetics for various purposes, including acne treatment, skin moisturization, and protection from free radicals.
• 😀 Excipients like oils, surfactants, humectants, and polymers play a crucial role in cosmetic formulations, contributing to moisture retention, stability, and texture of products.

Q & A

What are the two main categories of raw materials used in cosmetic formulations?

The two main categories of raw materials used in cosmetic formulations are active ingredients and excipients.

What is the role of active ingredients in cosmetics?

Active ingredients are responsible for providing the primary functional benefits of the cosmetic product, such as skin whitening, anti-aging, moisturizing, and more.

Why is mercury no longer used in cosmetic formulations?

Mercury is no longer used in cosmetic formulations because it can accumulate in body organs over time, leading to kidney damage and other toxic effects.

How does hydroquinone work in skin whitening, and what are its limitations?

Hydroquinone is a popular skin whitening agent that inhibits melanin production. However, it is limited to a concentration of 2% in cosmetics due to its potential to cause redness and a rebound effect, where skin pigmentation returns after discontinuation.

What is the 'ribbon phenomenon' associated with hydroquinone?

The 'ribbon phenomenon' refers to the rebound effect where the skin pigmentation returns to its original state after the discontinuation of hydroquinone, especially when used at high concentrations.

What are some safe alternatives to mercury and hydroquinone for skin whitening?

Safe alternatives include vitamin C and its derivatives, licorice extract, green tea extract, and arbutin, which are known for their skin whitening properties without the toxic effects.

How do hormones like estrogen function in cosmetic formulations?

Estrogen, when used in high doses, can help treat acne by inhibiting androgen production, which affects oil gland activity, reducing excess oil and acne formation.

What is the role of sunscreen in cosmetic formulations, and which ingredients are commonly used?

Sunscreens protect the skin from harmful UV rays, preventing sun damage. Common ingredients in sunscreens include benzophenone, methoxycinnamate, and titanium dioxide for sunblock, and optyl salicylate for sunscreen.

What are humectants, and why are they important in cosmetic formulations?

Humectants are ingredients that attract moisture from the air or underlying skin layers to the surface of the skin. They help keep the skin hydrated, and common examples include glycerin, propylene glycol, and sodium hyaluronate.

What is the significance of antioxidants in cosmetic formulations?

Antioxidants prevent the oxidation of the product and protect the skin from the harmful effects of free radicals, thus helping to maintain skin health and the stability of cosmetic products. Common antioxidants include vitamin E, vitamin C, and lycopene.