AZELAIC ACID - IS IT WORTH THE HYPE? | Dermatologists Explain

Summary

In this video, the dermatologist explores the benefits and versatility of azelaic acid, a highly effective skincare ingredient known for its ability to treat acne, rosacea, dark spots, and even post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It is also safe for use during pregnancy. The video discusses how to incorporate azelaic acid into a skincare routine, its compatibility with other ingredients, and the different available concentrations. The dermatologist highlights its underrated status, especially for concerns like acne scars, rosacea, and dark spots, while also addressing common myths surrounding its usage and pairing with other products.

Takeaways

• 😀 Azelaic acid is a versatile skincare ingredient, known for its benefits in treating acne, dark spots, rosacea, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
• 😀 Azelaic acid is derived from rye, barley, and yeast on the skin, and is approved for use in treating acne and rosacea.
• 😀 It is considered a 'jack of all trades' and a 'master of some,' excelling in treating acne and dark spots without causing bacterial resistance.
• 😀 Azelaic acid is safe for use during pregnancy (Category B), making it a great option for pregnant individuals dealing with acne, melasma, or other skin concerns.
• 😀 Azelaic acid is a mild exfoliant but shines in other areas such as oil control, acne treatment, and reducing redness from rosacea.
• 😀 Some people may find azelaic acid uncomfortable or irritating, but it is generally safe and well-tolerated for most users.
• 😀 There are no strict rules for layering azelaic acid with other skincare products— it pairs well with many ingredients and can be used in a simple cleanse-apply-moisturize routine.
• 😀 It is most effective when used consistently, and it can be layered in a basic routine: cleanse, apply, moisturize, and protect with sunscreen in the morning.
• 😀 Over-the-counter azelaic acid products are generally available in concentrations of 10%, with prescription products offering higher strengths (15-20%).
• 😀 Popular azelaic acid products have evolved over time, with improvements in texture, effectiveness, and formulation— The Ordinary, Paula’s Choice, and Allies of Skin are among the notable brands.

Q & A

What is azelaic acid and where does it come from?

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from grains like rye and barley. It is also a byproduct of a yeast on the skin that causes conditions such as dandruff and tinea versicolor.

What skin conditions can azelaic acid help treat?

Azelaic acid is effective for acne, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, rosacea, and can even help with oil control. It is known to improve redness from rosacea and prevent bacterial resistance in acne treatments.

How does azelaic acid benefit people with acne and dark spots?

Azelaic acid is approved for acne treatment and helps reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme that creates melanin. This makes it helpful for both acne and dark spots.

Why is azelaic acid considered safe for use during pregnancy?

Azelaic acid is classified as a Category B ingredient, meaning it has been considered safe for use during pregnancy. This is a significant benefit as many other ingredients are not tested or considered safe during pregnancy.

Who should avoid using azelaic acid?

While azelaic acid is generally safe, some people may experience irritation or discomfort, especially those with sensitive skin. Additionally, some individuals might find the gritty texture of prescription formulations unpleasant.

What makes azelaic acid a 'jack of all trades' in skincare?

Azelaic acid is versatile in treating multiple skin issues like acne, rosacea, dark spots, and oil control. It's particularly valued for its ability to target these concerns without causing bacterial resistance.

How should azelaic acid be incorporated into a skincare routine?

Azelaic acid can be used once or twice a day. The general routine is to cleanse, apply azelaic acid, and then moisturize. It can be layered with other products like retinoids or vitamin C for additional benefits, depending on the user's skin needs.

Can azelaic acid be layered with other skincare products?

Yes, azelaic acid is compatible with most skincare ingredients and can be layered with other products like retinoids and vitamin C. There are no strict rules on how to layer it, though it’s typically applied after cleansing and before moisturizing.

What are some of the best over-the-counter azelaic acid products?

Some of the best over-the-counter azelaic acid products include The Ordinary's 10%, Paula's Choice 10%, and Ntorium's 10%. Newer products like Anua from Korea offer improved texture and better formulation compared to older products.

What is the difference between over-the-counter and prescription-strength azelaic acid?

Over-the-counter azelaic acid typically comes in 10% concentrations, while prescription versions can be 15% or 20%. While the higher concentrations may be more effective for specific concerns like rosacea, 10% formulations still provide great results for many users.