Making Whoops FLY BETTER | w/ the BETAfpv Meteor 75 PRO
Summary
TLDR在这段视频中,我们深入了解了Meteor 75 Pro这款公园飞行器。它采用导管风扇设计,能够在多次碰撞中保持完好,甚至在翻转模式下也能迅速恢复。与同类产品相比,虽然牺牲了一些飞行性能,但耐用性大幅提升。视频还对比了Meteor 65和75 Pro两款模型,通过推重比、盘面积与重量比以及重量差异进行了分析。75 Pro更重,但提供了更好的抓地力和更快的速度。此外,视频还提供了BetaFPV的定制调整设置,并建议了一些ESC设置调整,如将PWM频率从96kHz调整到48kHz,以及调整滤波器和PID参数以优化飞行性能。最后,视频鼓励观众在飞行前先以原厂设置试飞,然后根据建议进行调整,以获得更好的飞行体验。
Takeaways
- 🚁 流星75 Pro是一款适合公园飞行的小型飞行器,其导管风扇设计能够承受多次撞击而不易损坏。
- 🔄 该飞行器具备“乌龟模式”,能够在翻转后继续飞行,相比同级别的其他飞行器,它在耐用性上有优势。
- 📏 流星75 Pro与流星65相比,尺寸更大,拥有45毫米的螺旋桨,而流星65是30毫米,这影响了它们的飞行性能和操控感。
- ⚖️ 流星75 Pro的全重约为46克,比流星65的30克重,但提供了更好的推重比和操控性。
- 📊 在进行推重比和圆盘面积对重量的比较时,75 Pro显示出了更好的性能。
- 🏠 对于室内飞行,流星65 Pro因其轻巧可能更为合适,但在室外或需要耐用性的情况下,75 Pro是更佳选择。
- 🛠️ 流星75 Pro自带BetaFPV的定制调整,用户可以根据飞行数据进行个性化调整。
- 🔋 ESC刷新到48kHz可以提供良好的性能和电池续航之间的平衡,而96kHz则更侧重于电池续航。
- 🔧 通过调整PID和滤波器设置,可以改善飞行性能,尤其是在振动和噪音控制方面。
- 📉 增加动态滤波器的Q因子并调整最小频率,可以帮助减少特定频段的振动。
- ⏱️ 增加D增益并降低动态阻尼,可以提高飞行器对快速输入的响应,改善飞行体验。
- 🌐 通过使用Blackbox记录器,用户可以分析飞行数据并进行更精细的调整。
Q & A
流星75 Pro是什么类型的飞行器?
-流星75 Pro是一款公园飞行者类型的无人机,具有导管风扇设计,适合在户外进行飞行。
流星75 Pro的耐用性如何?
-流星75 Pro非常耐用,能够在多次撞击后继续飞行,甚至在所谓的“乌龟模式”下翻转回来,而不会损坏。
流星75 Pro与同级别的其他飞行器相比有哪些优势?
-与同级别的其他飞行器相比,流星75 Pro在没有导管风扇的情况下可以提供更好的飞行性能,同时拥有更强的耐用性和抗撞击能力。
流星75 Pro的重量是多少?
-流星75 Pro的全重大约是46克,比流星65重16克。
流星75 Pro的推进器直径是多少?
-流星75 Pro使用的是45毫米的推进器。
流星75 Pro和流星65在性能上有什么不同?
-流星65更轻,更适合室内飞行和快速转弯,而流星75 Pro则因为较大的推进器和更好的推重比,更适合室内外结合的飞行。
流星75 Pro是否配备了定制调整?
-是的,流星75 Pro配备了Beta FPV的定制调整,并且带有8兆的闪存,足够用于黑匣子记录完整的调整飞行。
如何优化流星75 Pro的ESC设置以提高飞行性能?
-可以通过将PWM频率从96千赫兹刷新到48千赫兹,并进行一些滤波器和PID调整来优化ESC设置。
流星75 Pro的遥控器信号丢失后有什么功能帮助找回?
-如果信号丢失,可以设置信标在两分钟后开始发出蜂鸣声,帮助找回飞行器。
如何减少流星75 Pro在飞行中的振动?
-可以通过调整滤波器设置,特别是在150赫兹到400赫兹之间增加动态滤波器的Q因子,来减少振动。
流星75 Pro的动态阻尼应该如何调整以改善飞行性能?
-可以将动态阻尼降低,以简化设置并提高D增益,从而获得更好的推进器洗流性能。
流星75 Pro的PID应该如何调整以减少过冲?
-可以通过增加D增益和调整PID参数来减少过冲,特别是对于横滚轴,可能需要更多的阻尼。
Outlines
🛫 流星75 Pro无人机特性介绍
流星75 Pro是一款出色的公园飞行器,采用导管风扇设计,能够在多次撞击后仍能保持飞行,且具备翻转模式。与同等级的飞行器相比,虽然牺牲了一定的飞行性能,但换来了更高的耐用性和抗撞击能力。此外,与流星65相比,75 Pro拥有更大的尺寸和更强的推重比,适合室内外飞行,尤其是在户外或较为恶劣的环境中。75 Pro还带有Beta FPV的定制调整,提供了8MB的闪存空间,足以进行完整的调整飞行和黑匣子记录。
🔧 ESC设置和飞行性能优化
为了提高飞行性能,建议将电子调速器(ESC)的PWM频率从96kHz降低到48kHz,以获得更好的螺旋桨气流性能,尽管这可能会稍微减少电池寿命。此外,通过使用Google Chrome浏览器访问esc-configurator.com,可以对ESC进行重新刷新和设置。在飞行性能调整方面,建议将RPM滤波器的谐波数减少到1个,并调整滤波器的参数以减少200Hz以上的噪声。对于PID调整,建议增加D增益以改善螺旋桨气流性能,并调整动态阻尼以减少过冲。
📊 飞行性能测试和调整建议
通过实际飞行测试,发现飞行器在俯仰和横滚轴上的响应存在过冲现象,需要增加阻尼。调整PID参数,特别是D增益,可以改善这一问题。建议将动态阻尼完全关闭,以简化设置并提高D增益。此外,增加前馈增益可以提高飞行器的响应速度,尤其是在快速移动时。最后,作者还提供了一些个性化设置的建议,如调整信标时间,以及如何通过黑匣子数据分析来进一步优化飞行性能。
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Park, flyer
💡ducted fan design
💡turtle mode
💡thrust to weight ratio
💡disc area
💡ESC
💡PWM
💡prop wash
💡PID
💡feed forward
💡Black Box
Highlights
Meteor 75 Pro 是一款出色的 Park, Flyer 模型,采用导管风扇设计,能够承受多次撞击而不会损坏。
与同等级别的其他模型相比,Meteor 75 Pro 拥有更好的耐久性,能够在“乌龟模式”下翻转并继续飞行。
Meteor 75 Pro 与较小的 Meteor 65 Pro 相比,具有更大的尺寸和更重的重量,但提供了更多的推力和更好的抓地力。
Meteor 65 Pro 由于重量较轻,更适合室内飞行和竞速,而 Meteor 75 Pro 则更适合室内外结合的飞行环境。
Meteor 75 Pro 配备了 Beta FPV 的自定义调整,为飞行性能提供了优化。
Meteor 75 Pro 内置了 8MB 的闪存,足够用于黑匣子记录,帮助飞行者分析和优化飞行表现。
通过 ESC 配置器网站,可以对 ESC 进行固件刷新,以优化电机性能。
建议将 ESC 的 PWM 频率从 96kHz 调整到 48kHz,以获得更好的飞行性能和电池寿命的平衡。
在 ESC 设置中,将信标(beacon)时间设置为两分钟,以便在丢失飞行器后帮助找回。
通过调整动态滤波器的谐波数量和品质因数(Q factor),可以减少电机带内的噪声。
在 PID 调整中,增加 D 增益并减少动态阻尼,可以提高飞行器在螺旋桨洗流中的性能。
对于 Whoop 类型的飞行器,增加前馈(feed forward)可以改善响应速度并减少过度摆动。
作者提供了 Patreon 链接,观众可以通过小额捐款支持频道。
作者还提供了购买 Meteor 75 Pro 的链接,以及建议在调整 ESC 设置前先以原厂设置进行试飞。
调整后的 ESC 设置和滤波器、PID 调整可以显著提升飞行性能。
作者强调了在调整前进行充分的测试飞行,以确保安全和性能的最优化。
视频最后,作者感谢观众并希望提供的信息对大家有帮助。
Transcripts
the meteor 75 Pro is a great little Park
flyer with its ducted fan design it's
really going to be able to sustain
multiple crashes as you'll see in the
footage behind me without braking and
also being able to be in a position
where you can turtle mode and flip back
over when compared against something
that's equal in class for you know the
size and being able to zoom around yes
you will get a little bit better flight
performance without the ducks on
something like this this little
toothpick but it's not going to be
nearly as durable and being able to do
turtle mode and be able to take the hits
of all the poles and everything without
breaking this will way more likely to
break and it's going to be a lot harder
to make sure that Parts you know the the
carbon fiber design for this is
sustainable into the long-term future
whereas when you're always looking at
something in the whoop class here these
types of frames are going to be made
forever and are very uh agile you know
flexible and you're always going to be
able to get these kind of frames they're
cheap to get you can get stacks of them
at a time in different colors and you're
not reliant on just one manufacturer for
the frame Supply into the future now
when compared to its little brother the
meteor 65 and this is the 2001 edition
not the 2002. you can see there's quite
a bit of size difference so this is
really small this is the pro but 2001
version so it only has the 30 millimeter
props versus the meteor 75 Pro with the
45 millimeter props now doing some
comparisons between these two models you
can see I ran the thrust to weight ratio
the disc area to weight and then just
the straight up weight difference
between the two so let's start with
weight you're all up weight for the
meteor 65 is around 30 grams where the
75 is going to be around 46 grams so 16
grams heavier as you can see there but
when you compare that any ratio for the
disc area
compared between the two you're going to
see that the disc area you have a little
bit more disc area divided by the weight
so the ratio between those two you're
gonna have a little bit more with the 75
Pro
um
take that for what it's worth it feels a
lot more grippy uh in the air it's not
as floaty of course as the lighter
weight meteor 65 but it does have a you
know it's faster and it has some decent
amount of grip in the corners for sure
now as you can see on the images I did a
scale just reversing the props and did
some thrust checking on it and you can
see that I am getting a little bit more
thrust to weight on the 65 Pro versus 75
Pro so take that look for what it's
worth you know it's kind of you have a
little bit more disc area but we are
getting more thrust compared to the
weight with the 65. now as you will
probably see in other reviews uh if
you're doing to do Straight indoor
flying racing you probably want
something like the 65 Pro uh it's
lighter weight so it's not going to
bounce in furniture and walls nearly as
hard that lighter weight is going to be
less to get changed in Direction on
their sharp turns if you're doing any
erasing things like that however if you
are going outside with it or you want
something that's a little inside outside
option definitely the 75 Pro is what I
would be looking at to get that
versatility sure you can take the 65 out
as well but just that really light
weight it's just more susceptible to
wind and things of that nature not that
this is not susceptible to wind but
definitely for outside and kind of
jungle gym ripping or playground you
know flying this uh 75 Pro I really feel
hits the ticket even better than
something like a toothpick like this
just because of the durability this
thing will fly and have better flight
performance but it's not going to be
nearly as durable in the crashes as this
is you know I can break these pretty
easily this as you can see in some of
this footage I'm beating the heck out of
it and it is still doing just fine just
flips right over and keeps on going now
the 75 Pro does come with a custom tune
from beta fpv and you can see the
settings right here and it's truly
customized which is nice to see for once
you can see for whoops definitely they
have to ramp up the damping and then
slide down the tracking a little bit but
there is some room for improvement some
things I would change based on the Black
Box logging so that's another great
thing with the 75 Pro it actually comes
with eight Meg of flash which is plenty
for black box it's enough to contain a
full tuning flight and so if you have
any issues with it or just want to peek
out performance a little bit better yeah
that's another tool in the tool chest to
use so I took a look at that and I have
some tips for you so the first thing I
would do is go to your Google Chrome
browser and go to
esc-configurator.com from there you
gotta plug in your quad make sure it
doesn't connect to betaflight you can go
ahead and hit connect on here and then
you'll have to plug in a battery once
the battery's plugged in you can hit
read setup and that will bring you into
the screen I was just at you can see
they have 96 kilohertz pwm loaded here
that's a little high that's not going to
be great for Prof watch performance so
we're going to reflash all those escs to
do that we're going to hit flash all
escs and from there you can see it
selects the ESC
type right here which matches up here at
the top and then go ahead and select the
latest version and then we're going to
change that to 48 kilohertz you can go
24 kilohertz for better prop wash
performance but your battery's life's
going to suffer from that so 48 I think
is a good balance 96 will give you the
most amount of battery life but the
least the amount of performance so if
you're just racing around in prop wash
is a big thing if you're kind of inside
yeah maybe it's fine but uh if you're
outside probably 48 is what I would
recommend so after you have that
selected all you have to do is hit flash
while it's going through that process
make sure to put a fan on the VTX so you
don't burn it out other little tweaks I
would make is come in here to the beacon
probably set that for two minutes
everything else looks pretty good to me
so from there once we just change that
to two minutes there that's so if you uh
lose the quad or whatever it's still
plugged in after two minutes the esc's
will start to beep for you uh help you
find it Well from there you just go
ahead and hit right settings and then
you should be in good set shape so doing
a two a full tuning flight if you're
familiar with black box at all this
looks pretty good for what you see for
raw noise right here that's a little red
swiggly lines and if we run a
spectrograph on that you can see down
here if I look at my roll access how
that's going to look so this is looking
pretty good we can see this nice trough
which is exactly what we want to see we
do have a broad spectrum of noise around
200 Hertz and up all the way up to
around
675 Hertz somewhere in that and that is
the motor band and also this is probably
where the frame is vibrating we do have
that plastic frame which is very durable
and flexible but yeah it will have a
little bit more vibrations in this but
that's not an issue from 200 to whatever
380 we can definitely Crush that down
with some filtering so the first tip I
would do is take the harmonics for the
RPM filter down to just one harmonic you
can see we don't get much over the motor
band for the second harmonic so we don't
need those two extra filters that just
trims off very little bit but
nevertheless I would bump up the number
of notches set this to 300 for the Q
factor and then move the minimum to
around 150. so what we're trying to do
with that is you can see from 150 Hertz
up to 400 Hertz around here we're trying
to really focus two Dynamic notches in
this Zone to help crush this this peaks
of noise down here for the filtering so
it's going to have two Dynamic notches
roaming around and 150 Hertz to 400
Hertz by taking this Q factor here to
300 instead of 500 it's going to make
those notches just a little bit wider
and so instead of being something like
this they'll be like that a little bit
wider and just kind of focus that area
in and then we're gonna that's gonna add
some more latency work so we're going to
trim off some of that just a little bit
by removing even the harmonics down the
RPM filters so that's one bit of advice
right there any differences from here if
we wanted to thin out or make the
filtering heavier or lighter we would
just adjust this gyro filter slider of
course rates or rates put in your
favorite rates whatever you want to do
for rates right here then in looking at
some of the twitch moves just twitching
back and forth you can see I'm kind of
overshooting uh the moves here so that
means it needs even a little bit more
damping than it already has so you can
see that on the roll axis we continue to
overshoot overshoot overshoot and then
we do the same on the pitch access not
as much overshoot so it's more on the
roll than on the pitch but we'd still
have yeah just just ever man pitch axis
is pretty dang close to being where it
needs to be you can see it's not this
you know this cyan line is not nearly
overshooting the green line as much as
it was on the roll so you hear on the
roll you can definitely see it's
overshooting there so we need a little
bit more damping there checking out the
all we're looking pretty good on the yaw
axis so what they have in there is
pretty Snappy on the all access uh it
did have just the ever so slight washout
from a dive but not really bad at all so
I probably would leave the yaw pins at
where they're at but let's go take a
look at the roll axis and see how we can
tweak that out so on the pids the first
thing I would do is they have Dynamic
damping turned down pretty good so I
would just turn it down the rest of the
way just to simplify things you know
teach their own on that but that's what
I would do and now it will help with
getting the D gains as high as possible
for the best prop wash performance so
yeah it's almost all the way down so
just take that down all the rest of the
way and then you can see our D gains
here now it's a little simpler these are
the same thing you can see it's 52 and
59. so what I want to do is Bump this up
so I'm going to go up to uh it was at
1.45 I'm going to take that up to 1.65
so that's going to take this up to 59
and then I want to adjust this back down
so that this is around 59 so you can see
it was 59 before over 60. that's close
enough and that will give us more
damping on the roll access but a little
you know keep the essentially the same
amount of damping on the pitch access
since that was looking pretty good
already so we basically took this from a
54 up to a 59 value so essentially these
are the same between the two you could
probably yeah you could do something
like that I guess
um let's see here just yeah that would
probably be good just a little bit more
damping essentially I'm setting these
two to the same value and that should
that should be pretty good you can see
these are practically the same value
here as well and then this is a whoop so
we definitely want to crank up that feed
forward uh personally I would crank it
the whole way up
um whoops are usually not very fast to
respond you can see just by looking at
the log here again the amount of delay
between the the sticks is my green line
and the quad actually moving this is
probably like 10 milliseconds or 15
milliseconds depends you can see it
widens out but yeah
um cranking up V4 will take care of that
and you can see some of this
overshooting things like that that's
going on here with that uh too much too
much push not enough damping so we're
looking to fix that there well that's it
for this little guy I hope you found
that helpful and useful check it out
with those settings I think you'll
really enjoy the increased flight
performance with it if you did find this
helpful can I remind you I do have a
patreon links down in the video
description for as little as two dollars
a month you can help support the channel
again link down in the description I
also have links down there where you can
pick this little sucker up if you don't
have one already and uh if you do get
one again check out you know first fly
it the way it is stock don't be changing
things right away but yeah check out
those changes to the ESC settings I'm
really just taking it down to 48k
instead of 96k and then some of those
filter tweaks and PID tweaks and I think
you'll really enjoy the increased flight
performance thanks everybody I hope this
helped
foreign
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