STOP C-Betting Out of Position (It's Costing You Money) | Upswing Poker Level-Up
Summary
TLDRIn this Upswing Poker Level Up podcast, hosts Mike Brady and Poker Pro Gary Blackwood delve into the strategy of continuation betting (c-betting) out of position in single raise pots. They discuss the importance of adopting a passive and defensive approach when out of position, as opposed to the aggressive c-betting common in-position. The episode explores various flop scenarios, offering insights on when to check, c-bet, or check-raise, emphasizing the need to adjust play based on the board texture and opponent's range. Listeners are also directed to Gary Blackwood's comprehensive module for an in-depth understanding of out of position play.
Takeaways
- 🎲 Playing out of position as the pre-flop raiser is often misplayed, requiring a more passive and defensive strategy compared to playing in position.
- 🔍 Understanding the strategic 'why' behind out of position c-betting is crucial, as it helps in making informed decisions rather than just following generic advice.
- 📉 The wide range of hands played out of position can be at a significant disadvantage against a narrow range of hands that the opponent might have when they call pre-flop.
- 👀 Being out of position makes playing more difficult, as the opponent in position can easily exploit this by floating wide and making life miserable on the turn.
- 🚫 Over-c-betting out of position can lead to check folding too often, thus it's better to start with a passive defensive strategy by checking more often.
- 🌳 Flops that are low and unpaired, such as nine-high and below, are particularly bad for the pre-flop raiser out of position and warrant checking the entire range.
- 🔄 The equity of the pre-flop raiser can be lower than expected on certain flops, even with strong hands like overpairs or sets, due to the connected nature of the board.
- 📈 Against loose opponents who call with a wide range, the strategy needs to be adjusted as the dynamics of a wide range versus a narrow range are no longer applicable.
- 🚀 Check-raising out of position should be backed up with a solid strategy, focusing on value hands that the opponent will call with worse and bluffs that will make them fold their weakest hands.
- 💡 Live players often make mistakes by betting too often for 'protection' on certain flops, which can be exploited by having a well-balanced check-raising strategy.
Q & A
What is the main topic discussed in this podcast episode?
-The main topic discussed in this podcast episode is c-betting out of position in single raise pots in poker.
Why is playing out of position as the pre-flop raiser considered challenging?
-Playing out of position as the pre-flop raiser is challenging because it requires a more passive and defensive strategy compared to playing in position. Many players tend to c-bet too often, which can leave money on the table.
What is the primary reason for adopting a passive and defensive strategy when out of position?
-The primary reason for adopting a passive and defensive strategy when out of position is how the player's range stacks up against the opponent's range. A wide range up against a narrow range tends to fare poorly on many board textures.
What is the significance of the board texture in determining the c-betting strategy?
-The board texture is significant because it affects the equity of the hands in play. Certain board textures favor the pre-flop raiser, while others favor the caller, influencing the decision to c-bet or check.
Why is it important to consider the opponent's range when deciding to c-bet out of position?
-It is important to consider the opponent's range because it helps determine the equity of the player's hand relative to the opponent's. This can affect the decision to c-bet or check, as well as the frequency of these actions.
What is the typical c-betting frequency on flops that are not favorable for the pre-flop raiser?
-On flops that are not favorable for the pre-flop raiser, the typical c-betting frequency is very low, often involving checking the entire range.
What types of flops are considered 'middling' for the pre-flop raiser, and how should they be played?
-Flops like Q-9-2, Q-7-3, and K-6-4 are considered 'middling' for the pre-flop raiser. They should be played with a lower c-betting frequency, around 25-35% of the time.
How should players adjust their c-betting and check-raising strategies against opponents who play very loosely?
-Against very loose opponents, players should adjust their c-betting and check-raising strategies by c-betting more often, as the opponent's range is not narrow and the equity disadvantage is reduced.
What are some examples of flops that are considered good for the pre-flop raiser and warrant frequent c-betting?
-Examples of good flops for the pre-flop raiser include high paired boards like K-J-6 rainbow, K-K-4, Q-Q-9, and J-J-T, where c-betting can be more liberal.
Why is it recommended to check-fold low equity hands on middling boards when out of position?
-It is recommended to check-fold low equity hands on middling boards when out of position because the c-betting frequency is low, and these hands are less likely to improve on subsequent streets.
What additional resource is recommended for players who want to dive deeper into playing out of position?
-Gary Blackwood's module in the lab titled 'Single Raise Pots After the Button Calls Pre-flop' is recommended for players who want to dive deeper into playing out of position.
Outlines
🃏 Understanding Out of Position C-Betting Strategy
In this paragraph, Mike Brady and Poker Pro Gary Blackwood discuss the nuances of c-betting (continuation betting) out of position in single raise pots. They emphasize the importance of adopting a passive and defensive strategy when playing out of position, as opposed to the more aggressive approach typically used in position. The discussion highlights how a wide range of hands raised pre-flop can be at a disadvantage against a narrow range of hands that called, especially on various board textures. The main reasons for this are the relative strength of the ranges and the positional disadvantage. They also clarify that the episode will focus on play against an in-position caller and not blind versus blind play, aiming to provide a focused discussion on this specific aspect of poker strategy.
🔍 Analyzing Flop Textures and C-Betting Frequencies
This paragraph delves into specific examples of flop textures and how they affect c-betting strategies when out of position. The speakers discuss the solver's approach to checking on low unpaired flops and how this strategy can be backed up with a solid check-raising strategy. They highlight the importance of considering the equity of your hand and the potential for your opponent's range to improve on certain flops. The paragraph also touches on the exploitative nature of check-raising against players who bet too often for protection, especially in live games. The discussion provides a detailed analysis of how to adjust c-betting and check-raising frequencies based on the flop texture and the opponents' likely range.
📉 Adjusting C-Betting Strategies on Middling Flops
The focus of this paragraph is on how to adjust c-betting and check-raising strategies on middling flops when out of position. The speakers explain that on these types of flops, the c-betting frequency is significantly lower compared to in-position play. They discuss the importance of betting with strong hands and draws, and check-raising with high equity hands. The paragraph also emphasizes the need to check-fold low equity hands in these situations. The speakers provide examples of how to build c-betting and check-raising ranges on these boards, highlighting the contrast between playing in position and out of position.
👑 Optimal C-Betting on High Paired Boards
In this final paragraph, the discussion shifts to the optimal c-betting strategy on high paired boards when out of position. The speakers identify boards like K-J-6 and K-J-8 as examples where c-betting is more liberal, despite the positional disadvantage. They explain that while these boards are good for the pre-flop raiser, they are even better for the button, making check-raising with strong hands crucial. The paragraph concludes with a recommendation for further learning, suggesting Gary Blackwood's module in the lab for a deeper dive into playing out of position. The module covers various aspects of play, including turn situations and multi-way concepts, and is promoted with a discount code for podcast listeners.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡C-betting
💡Out of Position
💡Passive Strategy
💡Range
💡Equity
💡Float
💡Check-Raising
💡Flop Textures
💡Exploitative Play
💡ABC Poker
💡Straight Draw
Highlights
The importance of playing a passive and defensive strategy when c-betting out of position as the pre-flop raiser in poker.
Continuation betting (c-betting) too often out of position can leave money on the table.
Understanding the strategic 'why' behind out of position c-betting is crucial for effective play.
Playing out of position with a wide range against a narrow range often favors the narrow range on various board textures.
The difficulty of playing out of position and the advantage of being in position when c-betting.
The significance of checking frequency when out of position to avoid overextending with a wide range.
The contrast between c-betting strategies in position versus out of position, especially on middling boards.
Identifying flops that are terrible for the pre-flop raiser and warrant checking the entire range.
The concept of virtual range checks on certain flops like K-9-8, even with an equity advantage.
Adjusting c-betting strategy based on the position from which the pre-flop raise was made.
The impact of an opponent's playing style on c-betting and check-raising strategy, especially against loose players.
Approaches to check-raising on flops with a narrow range of hands to exploit opponents' betting tendencies.
The importance of balancing value hands with bluffs in check-raising strategies to exploit opponents' frequent stabs on the flop.
C-betting and check-raising frequencies on middling boards and how to build ranges based on board texture.
The distinction between high c-bet frequencies in position versus out of position and the importance of relative scale.
Strategies for c-betting and check-raising on high paired and double broadway disconnected boards.
Recommendation of Gary Blackwood's module for an in-depth study of out of position play in poker.
Exclusive discount offer for the Upswing Poker Lab to enhance understanding of out of position play.
Transcripts
Ready to level up your poker game?
My name is Mike Brady and I'm once again joined by Poker Pro, Gary Blackwood.
Hello everyone. Welcome to the podcast.
Today we're going to be talking about c-betting out of position in single raise
pots. We've already covered c-betting in position,
now it's time to turn the tables and take a look at how we play when we're out
of position.
Playing out of position as the pre-flop raiser is one of the most misplayed
situations among poker players.
A lot of people think that just because they raised pre-flop,
they should follow through with a bet on the flop at a high frequency,
and that's largely true when you're in position,
but playing out of position calls for a much more passive and defensive
strategy. If you're continuation betting,
AKA c-betting too often in these spots,
you're likely leaving a lot of money on the table.
We're going to help you plug that leak in this episode. First,
we'll help you understand the why behind out of position c-betting strategy.
From there,
we'll go over a bunch of different example situations to help you with these
tricky spots. Just to be clear,
we're going to narrow the scope of this episode to playing versus an in-position
caller who called from a position like the button or the cutoff or the hijack.
We are not going to be talking about blind versus blind play,
which does have some similarities,
but it also has some monstrous differences and we want to keep the scope of this
episode a little smaller so we can cover this topic adequately.
Let's get into it. So Gary,
why is playing a passive defensive strategy so important as the out of position
pre-flop raiser?
Yeah, a great question to start us off here. As I always say,
understanding why we do certain things is much better than just being told to do
X, Y, Z and implementing it regardless.
The main reason that we want to play more passively out of position is because
of how our range stacks up against our opponent's range. For example,
if we open in the cutoff and the button flats,
we're opening 29% of our hands and the button has a very tight flatting range,
around 6% of hands if they're playing optimally.
When we have a wide range up against a narrow range,
the narrow range tends to fare really quite well on a fair few board textures.
Don't get me wrong,
some boards will always be better for the pre-flop aggressor,
but there are so many boards that the button is actually doing better on.
I:e has more equity despite us having Aces Kings,
Queens in our range. We're actually doing worse than the button in some spots,
and this is the most important reason that we want to have a much higher
checking frequency. When we're out of position on a variety of textures,
it's that really wide range up against that relatively narrow range,
and the narrow range doing much better because it has less air in its range,
and we miss the board so much more often. Secondly, it sounds a little obvious,
but it's still very important.
We are the out of position player and therefore our opponent is in position and
anyone watching this knows that at times it can be very difficult to play out of
position. And on the flip side, much easier to play in position.
So if we're c-betting too much,
our opponent can just float us really wide and make our lives a misery on the
turn.
Our range is far too wide and we end up doing so much check folding as a result.
Yeah, it's much better to just start with that passive defensive strategy.
On most boards, start with the check, see what they do, maybe they'll bet,
you can implement a check racing strategy,
which we'll talk about a little bit more.
Maybe they check the flop and then you start to play a turn and the pot's kind
of smaller.
But what you don't want to do is just be firing in that c-bet at way too high of
a frequency,
bloating the pot and then getting to the turn with too wide of a range and now
you're going to have to be check folding in a pot that you've built.
So now that you understand the why,
I want to run through a few examples to help you play these out of position
spots.
Let's start with the flops that are absolutely terrible for us as the pre-flop
raiser. Suppose you raise in middle position and the button calls,
what are some flops that warrant checking your entire range?
So it's really nice that we get to group so many types of flops here together as
one. The solver checks nine-high and below unpaired flops,
which is so many flops that we're just checking our entire range on,
and quite a lot of ten-high flops as well.
That is so many flops that we are just checking our entire range on,
and let's pick a few and talk about the equities.
We've got 9-8-6 flush draw as the pre-flop raiser with all the
overpairs, even flop sets in our range and some flop two pairs.
We've got 48.7% equity.
Even if we look at a disconnected 7-3-2 rainbow for example,
the hijack again has only got 47.2% equity.
That's with all the overpairs, some flopped sets, all those types of hands.
Our range is really struggling and as a result we've got to do so much checking.
You can even look at a flop like K-9-8,
which might sound like a board we c-bet really wide on.
We do have an equity advantage here,
but given how connected the board is and how much resistance we'll be met with,
this is a virtual range check.
It's worth noting that these boards are especially bad for you as the out of
position player when you've raised pre-flop from one of those middle or late
positions where you actually have somewhat of a wide range and thus you have a
lot of air in your range hands that have totally missed the flop.
If you raise from, for example, under the gun,
your range is going to be really tight overall and thus it's going to be a
higher proportion of over-pairs or strong medium pairs and stuff like that.
Maybe even sets on a board like 9-8-6.
So on those boards you actually do get to do a little bit more c-betting,
but it's especially bad when you're in the hijack where you've raised a good
number of hands pre-flop, you got all the K-T offsuits of the world.
If you're going that loose, K-J offsuit,
those types of hands and they all miss these 9-8-6 boards,
therefore your range is just a lot more air.
So I think the key takeaway here is to think about how much air your range has
and also how hard the board hits their condensed range that they called with
pre-flop.
Yeah, absolutely.
And there's one last thing I want to add here and it's really quite important.
Obviously we're talking about when you play against a wide range against a
condensed range, 27% versus 6%.
A lot of us will be playing live poker and will be playing against players who
will not flat 6% on the button. I:e players that play way too loose.
They'll have all the 7-6 suited, all the K-J offsuits and so on in their range,
which means you're no longer a wide range against a narrow range.
You're actually a wide range against a relatively wide range.
One of the points I made earlier still very much stands. We're out of position,
so we don't want to see that insanely wide because our opponent is in position.
It can make our lives very difficult,
but that sort of negates the wide range versus narrow range factor and it is
really important we don't implement the same strategy versus those types of
players because we'll be costing ourselves a lot of money.
So when you're up against a player who's playing really loosely,
you don't just check your entire range on T-9-3 for example.
You want to have plenty of c -bets in there because their range is not really
narrow and as a result you're not at such an equity disadvantage.
Yeah, that's a really great point. So just critically think,
consider all of the factors in this situation,
how your range stacks up against your opponent's estimated range,
and try to make the right decision.
I think the examples we're going to cover throughout the rest of the episode
will kind of give you the tools needed to help you understand how these ranges
tend to match up.
Suppose you check and face a bet on one of these boards that you've been talking
about where we check our entire range against a narrow calling range.
You said 7-3-2 rainbow, K-9-8, 9-8-6..
How are you going to approach check-raising on these flops,
should you check and then face a bet by that imposition player?
So let's look at our 7-3-2 rainbow as our first example here.
Say we follow the solver and check our entire range on the flop. Yes,
the button has more equity here as stated,
but remember we've checked our entire range. We are completely uncapped,
so we still have strong over-pairs. We've still got some sets, some top pair,
top kicker. So when we play a really high frequency flop check strategy,
we must back it up with a solid check-raising strategy as well.
On the 7-3-2 for example, we check-raise 17% of our hands,
which is a really high frequency check-raise here our value is very easy to work
out. We've got all the over-pairs, the Tens, Jacks, Queens,
Kings and Aces that want to check-raise. We've got some sets,
we've got some top pair, top kicker type hands.
These are all really nice candidates to go into our value check-raising range.
Remember,
we're completely uncapped so we can justify a very wide check-raising strategy.
Our weaker hands will revolve around our minimal showdown and backdoor equity.
So on 7-3-2, we get to get really creative.
We've got hands like 9-8 with a backdoor flush, draw,
J-T with a backdoor flush draw, A-4 with a gut-shot,
Q-J suited, which has got two really high cards and a backdoor flush draw.
So many different types of hands that have really high over-cards or a backdoor
draw or a gut-shot, minimal showdown. A bit of all four.
Our value range is really wide,
do we've got a back that up and choose from one of the many combos of backdoor
equity plus minimal showdown that we have to choose from.
Before we move on to flops that are slightly better for us,
I want to make sort of an exploitative note.
We were just talking about those live players who will flat way too often in
position, they'll have too many K-J offsuits and 7-6 suited and hands like that.
Another thing these types of players will often do is they'll stab too often on
the flop when checked to,
they won't realize that you're going to be checking a very strong range on these
boards.
So they're going to bet too often for "protection." Sometimes that will have
merit on their end and they're right to make that bet,
but a lot of times they do it too often.
So by having this check-raising strategy and having it be well-balanced with
both value hands where they will call with worse and bluffs that will get them
to fold their weakest hands,
you're really going to be exploiting their mistake to stab too often.
So if you're up against one of those players who you suspect is stabbing too
often when checked to on the flop, they really like to protect their hand.
They might even say it aloud,
this is going to be an especially helpful tactic for you.
Now let's move on to flops that are better for us but still not great. Again,
suppose you raise from one of the middle positions and the button calls,
what are some flops that warrant some, but not a lot of c-betting.
When we talk about boards that are better for us but not great,
our average c-bet frequency is still going to be really quite low.
On the boards that we're about to talk about,
we're only c-betting about 35% of the time on average.
These are boards like Q-9-2, Q-7-3, even a board like K-6-4.
They're okay for us, but they're not particularly amazing. On the flip side,
if we're button versus big blind,
these boards are a bet 70 or 80% frequency and that's a really nice contrast
there between how we play when we're in position compared to when we're out a
position. A-high boards are a type of board that people c-bet way too wide on,
and if we're that type of player,
we can plug a leak immediately by checking more often on these A-high boards,
sort of acknowledging that it's not an amazing board for us,
but not terrible either.
It kind of falls into the middling category along with the Q-7-3s, the K-9-5s,
those types of middling boards that we want to c-bet sometimes on,
but definitely not always when we're out of position.
This really demonstrates a contrast between playing in position and out of
position when c-betting. When we did our episode on in position c-betting,
the boards that were slightly better for us, we were still c-betting.
50-60% of the times those were the middling boards for us.
But now we're talking about the middling boards out of position and our c-bet
frequency has plummeted to 25-30-35%.
The scale is completely different. When you're in position,
you're going to just be c-betting way, way more often.
So what I would consider a middling frequency in position is like
50-60-70%,
but a middling frequency out of position for c-betting is more like 25% or 30%.
Be sure to keep that in mind.
A high c-bet frequency out of position is not the same as a high c-bet frequency
in position. It's all relative. Moving on,
how are you building your c-betting and check-raising ranges on these sort of
middling boards?
When our c-betting frequency is quite low, we play a relatively ABC strategy.
On the flip side, we've seen a high check-raise frequency,
we need to get quite creative. That's not the case here.
Our frequency is really quite low,
so everything becomes much easier and much more ABC.
We want to bet our strong draws, our stronger hands,
like our strong top pairs and over-pairs and our sets as well.
Those types of hands are low frequency c-bets because obviously we're not
c-betting that often at all, but they become very high frequency check-raises.
There's really no need to get fancy here.
Our betting frequency and our check-raise frequencies are both really quite low,
so it's pretty easy to work out which hands we want to put in more money with.
We want to c-bet or check-raise our stronger made hands and our draws,
and remember it's completely okay to just go ahead and check-fold our low equity
hands that don't want to continue.
Right, so in this case,
you're leveraging the strong hands in your range to create both a strong
check-raising range and a strong betting range.
You have to split your range in this spot. Sometimes betting with your sets,
sometimes checking to check-raise,
sometimes checking with your over-pairs to check-raise, sometimes betting..
you simply have enough strong hands on these boards to support both a
check-raising range and a betting range.
This is unlike the previous boards we were talking about where you check your
entire range and then you check-raise a bunch of value and you have to get
creative with those bluffs. You no longer have to do that here.
It's pretty easy to work out, like Gary said,
what you're going to be piling in more money with.
Moving on to our last example. Again,
our middle position raise versus a button call.
What are the very best flops for us?
Ones that we're c-betting relatively often given our positional disadvantage.
We're going to have boards like K-J- 6 rainbow, very wide cbet for us.
K-J-8 flush draw, though much more connected, still betting sometimes,
but nowhere near as much. That would fall into the more middling category.
Remember, the more connected the board, the more we're going to tend to check.
These high paired boards are relatively good for us as well. Boards like K-K-4,
Q-Q-9, J-J-T, We still get to bet these really quite wide.
That's pretty much it. The King,
Queen and Jack high double broadway disconnected, the high paired boards,
those are our biggest frequency c-bets.
This goes back to something you've said time and time again on this podcast,
which is that when you're going to face more resistance when you bet,
you should bet less often overall, especially with your lower equity hands.
So when there's a straight draw on the board,
when there's a flush draw on the board,
when it's a board that hits your opponent's range quite hard,
you bet less often because simply put,
they are going to call and raise more often when you bet,
and when your opponent is going to do a lot of calling and a lot of raising,
betting becomes less attractive unless you have a part of your range that really
wants to pile money in the pot as soon as possible with the bet.
On these high paired boards and these high double broadway disconnected
boards, how are you building your c-betting and check-raising ranges?
So given these boards like K-J-5 are better for us,
we get to bet them much wider, including a bit more with our complete air,
case in point on K-9-7,
we just never bet a hand like A-3 with no backdoor flush draw, but on K-J-5,
which is a better board for us, less disconnected,
we're less likely to be met with resistance.
A hand like A-3 with no backdoor flush draw will bet at some frequency,
not always, but certainly not never.
So let's look at the board and work out if it's a really bad board for us,
a middling board for us or a relatively good board for us,
and the better the board, the more liberally you get to bet with your airballs.
As for our check-raises, again,
really centered around equity and strong hands. We can finish up here by talking
about why that is obviously a board like K-J-5,
it's a relatively good board for us,
which makes a really bad board for the button.
So when we do check and the button stabs,
their equity and their range all of a sudden have gotten much stronger,
and we don't want to check-raise into a range that's all of a sudden doing
really quite well. So our range itself is really ABC.
We're going to check-raise our strong hands, our sets, our two pairs,
maybe Ace King on this, K-J-5, and our strong draws hands like Q-T,
maybe Q-9 with a backdoor flush draw, A-T with a backdoor flush draw.
Really ABC, really face up,
really easy to work out what we want to check-raise here.
I'm glad you brought up that K-J-5 example.
We were talking about that exploitative concept earlier where people,
especially live, might stab too often in position when checked to.
I don't think they really do that on a board like K-J-5.
I think when someone has Pocket Fours or Pocket Sevens or maybe a Five on K-J-5,
I don't think, and this is largely speculation, all players are different.
They're not going to stab this board nearly as often.
When people do that "protection bet" that live players often do,
it's usually on those boards that don't have high cards because they're putting
you on high cards. It's a pretty simple logic that they're usually using.
So when the board is, for example, 9-8-6,
they might bet Pocket Fives because they want you to fold Ace King.
But on K-J-5,
I don't think they're really going to bet Pocket Sevens that often,
because what exactly are they trying to get you to fold? There's a King and a
Jack out there, so all the high cards have straight draws and stuff like that.
So you're not going to see as many of those protection betts,
and that goes to your point.
The stabbing range when you check to your opponent on these boards is generally
going to be quite a bit tighter.
So you should now have a pretty good idea of the fundamentals when it comes to
c-betting out of position.
But if you want to really dive incredibly deep into this area of the game tree
and really maximize your win rate in these out of position spots,
whenever an in position player calls you,
I highly recommend checking out Gary Blackwood's module in the lab,
"Single Raise Pots After the Button Calls Pre-flop," that's what the module is
called.
It's a seven and a half hour beast of a lesson on playing out a position as
the pre-flop raiser. He covers playing as middle position versus the button,
as well as cutoff versus the button.
Then he flips it around and covers playing as the button versus those positions.
Then he moves on to turn situations,
so you have a good idea how to navigate the turn after those flop plays.
He wraps up the module with a bunch of hand histories,
some multi-way concepts and general exploits to use in these out of position
spots. Super valuable module,
definitely worth the price of admission on the lab. So go check that one out,
if you're a lab member, and if you're not a lab member,
you can jump over to upswingpoker.com and use code "level up" to get $50 off.
That's an exclusive discount for people who listen to or watch this podcast.
So please go check out the lab if you're interested in that. With all that said,
we'll see you in the next episode of Upswing Poker Level Up.
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