Age in reverse with these 5 Essential Skincare Ingredients

Summary

Dr. Amir Karem, a board-certified facial plastic surgeon, shares fundamental elements of an effective anti-aging skincare routine in this episode of 'Skin School.' He emphasizes the importance of sun protection and introduces five key ingredients: retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and peptides. These components, used consistently, help increase collagen production, reduce pigmentation, and improve skin hydration and texture. Dr. Karem also highlights the significance of proper skin cleansing and offers tips for integrating these products into a daily routine for optimal anti-aging benefits.

Takeaways

• 👨‍⚕️ Dr. Amir Karem is a board-certified facial plastic surgeon specializing in facial rejuvenation and founder of Karim MD's skin.
• 🧴 The fundamental must-haves in an effective anti-aging skincare routine include: retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and peptides.
• ☀️ Sun protection is crucial and should be a top priority in any skincare routine to prevent accelerated collagen loss due to UVA exposure.
• 💊 Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, stimulates collagen production at the fibroblast level, reduces melanin production, and helps maintain thicker skin over time.
• 🍊 Vitamin C, an antioxidant, also stimulates collagen production, reduces melanin production, and provides synergistic benefits when used with retinol.
• 💧 Hyaluronic acid helps hydrate and plump the skin by absorbing water, providing an immediate improvement in skin suppleness.
• 🧬 Niacinamide (vitamin B3) decreases inflammation, improves hydration, reduces pore size, and enhances the skin barrier function.
• 🧪 Peptides, short-chain amino acids, stimulate collagen production, improve skin tone and texture, and support the skin's structural integrity.
• 🧼 Proper cleansing twice a day with a mild, non-foaming cleanser is essential to prepare the skin for the absorption of active ingredients.
• 🧴 The trifecta of skincare includes retinol, vitamin C, and additional ingredients like growth factors and non-hydroquinone botanicals to reduce pigment production for a comprehensive anti-aging approach.

Q & A

What is the primary focus of Dr. Amir Karem's Skin School episode?

The primary focus of Dr. Amir Karem's Skin School episode is to discuss the absolute must-haves in an effective anti-aging skincare routine.

What does Dr. Karem specialize in as a board-certified facial plastic surgeon?

Dr. Karem specializes in facial rejuvenation, which involves helping people look as young as they feel.

What is the significance of collagen in the skin's structure and appearance?

Collagen provides the skin with its supple quality, freedom from fine lines and wrinkles, and overall vibrant appearance. It forms the scaffolding of the skin and its reduction over time contributes to skin aging.

At what age does collagen production in the skin peak?

Collagen production in the skin peaks at the age of 27, after which it begins a gradual reduction.

Why is sun protection crucial in any skincare routine according to Dr. Karem?

Sun protection is crucial because sun exposure accelerates the rate of collagen loss, leading to faster skin aging. Without proper sun protection, the effectiveness of other skincare products and treatments is diminished.

What is the role of retinol in an anti-aging skincare routine?

Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, is essential in an anti-aging skincare routine because it stimulates collagen production at the fibroblast level, reduces melanin production, and helps maintain skin thickness over time.

How does vitamin C benefit the skin when used topically?

When used topically, vitamin C acts as an antioxidant, stimulates collagen production, and decreases melanocyte activity, leading to clearer and more vibrant skin over time.

What is the immediate effect of hyaluronic acid when applied to the skin?

Hyaluronic acid functions like a sponge when applied topically, absorbing water and providing the skin with immediate plumpness and a more supple appearance.

What is niacinamide and how does it contribute to skincare?

Niacinamide is a vitamin B derivative that decreases inflammation, improves the appearance of pores, and enhances skin hydration, making it an important part of an anti-aging skincare regimen.

What are peptides and how do they impact the skin?

Peptides are short-chain amino acids that signal changes at the molecular and cellular levels, stimulating collagen production, improving skin tone and texture, and contributing to the overall anti-aging process.

Why is proper cleansing important before applying anti-aging skincare products?

Proper cleansing is important because it prepares the skin to better absorb the active ingredients in anti-aging products. Inadequate cleansing can lead to inflammation and dryness, which hinder the skin's ability to receive the benefits of these products.

What additional ingredients does Dr. Karem mention for further enhancing collagen production and skin clarity?

Dr. Karem mentions growth factors for stimulating collagen production and botanical alternatives to hydroquinone for decreasing melanin production, which can help reduce pigmentation issues like brown spots.

How does Dr. Karem address the complexity of managing multiple skincare products?

Dr. Karem addresses this by developing a trifecta system that combines essential ingredients into a simplified three-step routine, making it easier for users to consistently apply effective skincare.

What is the key to achieving long-term results with an anti-aging skincare routine according to Dr. Karem?

The key to achieving long-term results is consistency and good habits, such as daily application of products and proper sun protection, rather than frequently changing products or giving up on routines too soon.

Outlines

00:00

🧬 Fundamentals of Anti-Aging Skin Care

Dr. Amir Karem introduces the essential elements of an effective anti-aging skincare routine, emphasizing the importance of understanding skin aging starting in our late 20s. He discusses the gradual reduction of collagen, which leads to skin thinning and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Dr. Karem stresses the importance of sun protection as the foundational step in any skincare routine, as UVA exposure accelerates collagen depletion. He also mentions the necessity of products that can physically and genetically alter the skin, such as retinol, which stimulates collagen production at the fibroblast level, thus maintaining skin thickness and youthful appearance.

05:00

🌞 Ingredients for a Youthful Complexion

In this segment, Dr. Karem delves into the specifics of anti-aging ingredients, starting with retinol, which he considers a must-have for its ability to combat redness, flakiness, and stimulate collagen production. He shares his experience with retinol's common side effects and his motivation for developing a more tolerable retinol system. Vitamin C is highlighted next for its antioxidant properties and its role in collagen stimulation and melanin reduction, leading to clearer skin. Hyaluronic acid is discussed for its hydrating properties, which help maintain skin's plumpness and suppleness. Niacinamide, a vitamin B derivative, is noted for its anti-inflammatory effects, pore improvement, and hydration benefits. Lastly, peptides are introduced as short-chain amino acids that signal cellular changes to improve collagen production and skin texture.

10:02

🛡️ Building a Robust Skin Care Regimen

Dr. Karem concludes the video script by outlining the importance of a consistent and daily application of the discussed ingredients for optimal anti-aging effects. He advises on the proper cleansing of the skin as a prerequisite for effective product penetration. Additionally, he touches upon growth factors and botanical alternatives to hydroquinone for further collagen stimulation and melanin reduction. Dr. Karem emphasizes the importance of simplicity in a skincare routine, as evidenced by his three-step Trifecta system, which integrates the key ingredients for ease of use. He encourages viewers to maintain consistency in their skincare habits for long-term benefits and advises against the common practice of frequently changing products, which can hinder the achievement of desired results.

Keywords

💡Facial Rejuvenation

Facial Rejuvenation refers to the medical procedures and treatments aimed at making the face appear younger. In the context of the video, Dr. Amir Karem specializes in this area, focusing on helping people look as young as they feel. The term is central to the video's theme, as it sets the stage for discussing anti-aging skincare routines.

💡Collagen

Collagen is a protein that provides structural support to the skin and is crucial for maintaining its elasticity and suppleness. The video explains that collagen production peaks at around 27 years old and then gradually declines, leading to skin thinning and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The script emphasizes the importance of maintaining collagen levels as a fundamental aspect of anti-aging skincare.

💡Retinol

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is highlighted in the video as a key ingredient in anti-aging skincare. It is known to stimulate collagen production at the fibroblast level, which helps maintain skin thickness and reduce the appearance of fine lines. The script mentions that consistent use of retinol can lead to a more youthful-looking skin structure.

💡Vitamin C

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that, when applied topically, can stimulate collagen production and reduce melanin production, leading to clearer and more vibrant skin. The video dispels the myth that vitamin C cannot be used alongside retinol, suggesting that proper formulation and application can make them work synergistically in an anti-aging skincare routine.

💡Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a substance that functions like a sponge when applied to the skin, absorbing water and providing plumpness and hydration. The script explains that as skin ages, it loses its ability to retain moisture, and hyaluronic acid can help restore this, contributing to a more supple and youthful appearance.

💡Niacinamide

Niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3, is discussed in the video as an important component of an anti-aging skincare regimen. It functions to decrease inflammation, improve the appearance of pores, and enhance hydration. The term is used to illustrate the multifaceted approach to skincare that goes beyond just addressing collagen production.

💡Peptides

Peptides are short-chain amino acids that can signal changes at the molecular and cellular levels, stimulating collagen production and improving skin tone and texture. The video positions peptides as a vital part of an anti-aging skincare routine, emphasizing their role in enhancing the skin's natural functions.

💡Sun Protection

Sun protection is repeatedly emphasized in the video as the most critical aspect of any skincare routine. It is noted that UVA exposure accelerates the depletion of collagen, which is counterproductive to the efforts of maintaining youthful skin. The script makes it clear that without proper sun protection, the effectiveness of other skincare ingredients is compromised.

💡Inflammation

Inflammation is a biological response that can have negative effects on the skin, such as redness and dryness. The video mentions that niacinamide helps decrease inflammation, which is beneficial for reducing redness and improving the skin's barrier function. The term is used to illustrate the interconnectedness of various skin concerns and their treatments.

💡Cleansing

Cleansing is identified in the video as an essential first step in any skincare routine. It is important for removing impurities that can prevent the absorption of other skincare products. The script advocates for twice-daily cleansing with a mild, non-foaming cleanser to avoid causing skin inflammation, which can impede the effectiveness of anti-aging treatments.

💡Consistency

Consistency is a key message in the video, emphasizing the importance of daily and long-term use of skincare products to achieve desired results. The script contrasts this with the common approach of frequently changing products or giving up on routines too soon, suggesting that持之以恒的使用产品是实现皮肤改善的关键。

Highlights

Dr. Amir Karem, a board-certified facial plastic surgeon, discusses the fundamentals of an effective anti-aging skincare routine.

The importance of understanding skin aging, starting with the gradual reduction of collagen production after the age of 27.

The role of collagen in maintaining skin suppleness and structure, and its decline with age.

Sun protection as the primary step in any skincare routine to prevent accelerated collagen loss from UVA exposure.

Retinol as a key ingredient for increasing collagen production and reducing melanin production, leading to clearer skin.

The challenge of using retinol due to skin irritation and the development of a retinol system that is more tolerable.

Vitamin C as an antioxidant that also stimulates collagen production and reduces melanocyte activity.

The myth about not using retinol and vitamin C together and the importance of formulation for their combined use.

Hyaluronic acid as a sponge-like ingredient that absorbs water to provide immediate skin plumpness and hydration.

Niacinamide, a vitamin B derivative, that decreases inflammation and improves skin's appearance and hydration.

Peptides as short-chain amino acids that signal change at the molecular level, stimulating collagen and improving skin tone.

The necessity of proper cleansing before applying skincare products to ensure their effectiveness.

Growth factors as an additional method to stimulate collagen production for anti-aging benefits.

The use of non-hydroquinone botanicals to decrease melanin production for clearer skin.

The simplicity of the Trifecta system that combines essential ingredients into a three-step skincare routine.

The importance of consistency in skincare for achieving long-term results and the avoidance of frequent product changes.

Dr. Karem's encouragement for viewers to subscribe for regular skincare and facial rejuvenation advice.

Transcripts

hi everyone I'm Dr Amir Karem board

certified facial plastic surgeon and

founder and creator of Karim MD's skin I

specialize in facial Rejuvenation which

basically means I help people look as

young as they feel and on today's

episode of skin School we're going to

talk about something very very

fundamental something that all of you

really need to know when it comes to

skin care and that is what are the

absolute must haves in an effective

anti-aging skin care routine by no means

is this an all-inclusive list I mean I'm

going to talk to you at the end about

some of the bonus pieces that you can

add to it in terms of active ingredients

but what I'm going to talk to you about

is what is the absolute sort of basic

Basics that are going to have meaningful

impactful effects on your skin if you're

using these product components on a

regular basis

consistently continuously over time all

right so let's break it down

so first part is understanding how the

skin ages now remember this is the

absolute foundational piece to all of

what follows starting in our late 20s

believe it or not the peak of our

collagen production and collagen

exposure and presence in our skin is 27

years old so starting at that point so

it Peaks at that point and then starting

at that point it's gradual reduction in

collagen composition and the amount of

collagen in the skin which then

translates through the thinning of the

skin over time so if you think about

that what is it that makes skin skin the

scaffolding of the skin the actual

structure of the skin is collagen and so

many people don't understand that very

aspect of it what gives it its Supple

quality well gives its freedom from fine

lines and wrinkles where it looks Supple

and fresh and vibrant comes down to the

amount of collagen in Alaska in the skin

but primarily collagen so collagen

composition is important but it's

reducing over time so initially we have

to think about right away what are we

going to do to increase collagen

production over time now this other

aspects that are happening is the skin

becomes discolored is it becomes

inflamed it starts to see you know brown

spots and red spots all these kind of

things that start to form it starts to

get dehydrated and losing it's it's

hydration which then creates a little

bit more of that deflated look to the

skin exacerbating fine lines and

wrinkles which is something we all want

to avoid and putting all of that into

context for like okay now if we're going

to engineer an approach that's going to

fight aging

our best way of doing that is by making

sure our skin care routines address

these aspects right so what does it come

down to

before I really get dive into each of

these components I do want to make sure

you understand that everything I'm about

to say starts with one principal

perspective and I'm always going to

mention this sun protection don't even

bother getting involved in a good skin

care routine unless you're willing to

become almost obsessive about the amount

of sun exposure you get on your facial

skin now I'm going to point out facial

skin because that's really at the end of

the day what we're really focusing on at

the moment because we're not putting

these products on our bodies but the the

same concept extends to the body

Sun you know talk about you know that

curve causing this collagen continues to

deplete over time well guess what during

sun exposure that speed that rate of

collagen loss is actually being elevated

so you're losing collagen faster you're

breaking down collagen faster because of

UVA exposure now you're treading water

basically at that point if you're

getting full full-blown sun on the

weekends and doing all this stuff and

then putting all these things on you and

spending all this money on it or getting

treatments you're really not getting the

right right approach to this so keep

that in mind so sun protection always

number one now the principle that I

always consider is if you're going to do

an effective skincare routine you have

to have something that's physically

making changes in the skin everything

I'm about to mention is happening at the

genetic level it's happening at the at

the skin and cellular level so retinol

is number one retinol is a vitamin a

derivative that has been around forever

truly you know I mean I don't even know

exactly how long 40 50 plus years

tons and tons of Studies have been done

on it one of the most that I remember

you know back in my training days

hearing about just light went off in my

head it's like wow this is key so the

concept is people who are using Retin-A

or retinols over time their skin remains

thicker compared to those who don't so

control groups thinning skin as time

goes on retinol and Retin-A users

thicker skin over time that's a very

important point to keep in mind because

at the end of the day that's really what

defines young looking skin in in terms

of structure so the genetic impact of

that is happening at the level of the

fibroblasts which are the cells that

create collagen now if you're increasing

the production of collagen at the

fibroblast level by retinols well you're

kind of winning the game it's a hack

right you're beating beating the system

so making sure that you are doing that

on a consistent basis is huge but the

problem is a lot of people who try

retinase or even retinols find it that

their skin gets really red and inflamed

and Flaky and all this kind of stuff and

they have to quit and that keeps a lot

of people that's been my experience with

it that actually was a huge reason why I

personally decided to actually develop

the uh the trifecta and develop a

retinol system that was actually

tolerated by people so that was a huge

huge issue and I'll explain this in a

moment but basically retinols stimulate

collagen at the fibroblast level they

are a must-have in addition to it they

also reduce the amount of melanin

production at the Milano site level

which melanin as you know is the pigment

that causes brown spots on the skin

sunspots Etc so if you can reduce that

you're also going to get a reduction in

melanin production and therefore you're

going to see your skin be a lot clearer

over time so

so many powerful impactful benefits of

retinol I consider it an absolute

must-have now just so you know and I get

this question all the time in the

comments it is in the trifecta I wasn't

going to build a skincare

routine Skin Care Program without

retinol being a part of it so retinol is

in the trifecta and it's you can

obviously get it in a number of

different brands and things like that on

you know where Sephora Etc and all those

places but make sure you have it second

most important ingredient is vitamin C

vitamin C is an antioxidant but it also

when you're taking it topically it also

works in the same kind of way that

you're using a Retinol for you're

stimulating collagen you're getting

antioxidant effects you're decreasing

melanocyte and I actually did an entire

video on the benefits of vitamin C in

skin care that's how bullish I am on

this particular ingredient again when

you're using this what you're doing is

you're working at the genetic level

you're stimulating collagen you're doing

all the things that are going to build

up so now you're getting Synergy between

retinol and vitamin C there's this weird

myth that has been going around that I

don't quite understand that you can't

use these two together it makes sense

why people are saying that because when

you're using a full strength retinol

then you're using a full strength

vitamin C and you're you putting them on

at the same time I mean that's like

double dose of of havoc on your skin

again why I decided to develop the

trifecta because I wanted to control

this and make them live happily together

but there are ways to to do this some

people use it every other night some

people do you know modifications to it

I'm a big believer of every night

treatment everyday treatment to get that

genetic impact at the cellular level so

they can live happily but it's about

formulation it's about the way they're

put together and it's an absolute must

if you're wanting to be seriously

addressing skin changes so vitamin C

super impactful check out the video for

more you know extensive information

about it like I said and I also have

another video on retinol believe it or

not that really gets into it as well so

those are the two big ones sun

protection the one and two retinol and

vitamin C now number three comes down to

hydration and moisture and that is

hyaluronic acid hyaluronic acid

basically functions like a sponge when

it's used topically and it gets into the

skin it absorbs water and it gives you

that plumpness so it's a little bit more

of an immediate gratification effect

that immediately kind of like fills in

looks a little bit better your skin

looks a little bit more Supple you feel

good about it all of that is a you know

it's very reinforcing it looks really

good but remember your skin loses some

of that moisture loses some of that

ability to maintain that and hyaluronic

acid is a natural occurring product that

exists in our in our tissues and when it

diminishes the skin becomes a little bit

more deflated looking because of that so

adding hyaluronic acid improving the

hydration of the skin improves that

aspect of it significantly all right so

the next one is niacinamide niacinamide

is a vitamin B now so it's interesting

we vitamin a derivative is retinol

vitamin B derivative is niacinamide

Vitamin C is Vitamin C so you've got

like basically a b and c vitamins that

on the skin have really important

impacts so vitamin B which is B3 and

niacinamide's case is functioning by

decreasing inflammation therefore

helping with redness improving pores and

also improving hydration so it's also

functioning in these important type of

ways to improve the appearance of pores

improve the appearance of structure Skin

Barrier inflammation improves the

ability to absorb all these important

active ingredients so that works really

really importantly in addition to the

other ones that I just mentioned so

niacinamide I consider it a very

important part of a good anti-aging skin

care regimen for those reasons as well

and the fifth one is peptides so

peptides are an interesting molecule

because what they are they're short

chain amino acids basically not

full-blown proteins but short chain

amino acids that have ability to signal

change onto the molecular level in the

cellular level that create change so

some peptides and the ones that I'm

referring to stimulate collagen improve

the output of the fibroblast production

of collagen see again at the end of the

day I'm all about increasing collagen

production so that you can fundamentally

get more production of collagen so you

defy the natural negative curve that's

occurring over time so collagen

production is a huge part of it

improving skin tone and texture is

another big part of peptides have a role

in that so I love bringing those five

absolute sort of must pieces together

most often you buy retinol you buy

vitamin C serum you buy hyaluronic acid

serum you know you use peptides

separately and then put all these

together and I you know niacinamide Etc

and then you have like a skin care right

now and the really really important part

of this also I should have mentioned in

the beginning is you've got to properly

cleanse the skin because if you're not

cleansing the skin properly you're not

able to get these products into into

where they need to be so cleansing I

believe twice a day using a mild

non-foaming cleanser is really important

because the abrasive foaming types can

be very inflammatory to the skin cause

dryness and also that inflammation

basically stops the the surface from

being able to allow these products to

get in so cleansing sun protection these

five ingredients are absolute keys to

anti-aging and then if you really want

to take it step further another really

important collagen production and a

collagen stimulating aspect is growth

factors these are another way of just

stimulating more collagen production at

that level and then also something that

is going to decrease the melanin

production so there's these

non-hydroquinone usually Botanical like

those are the ones that we use in

Trifecta that basically decrease the

production of pigment in the skin

because vitamin C retinol

and if you use an additional one that's

going to stimulate and bring so there's

other other varieties of this like

azoleic acid can be helpful in terms of

decreasing pigment so if you have a

problem with a lot of brown spots Etc

you might want to take extra caution in

that level and using an additional

treatment but trust me if you had to do

five pieces those would be the five ones

in addition to sun protection and proper

cleansing but again we made this really

really simple in our minds because a lot

of times people have a hard time dealing

with five different ingredients or five

different you know bottles Etc so it's

all in the three-step trifecta But

ultimately however you want to go about

it just make sure you're using these

products in this in this you know sort

of categories to defy skin aging trust

me on this if you do these things in

addition to sun protection your skin

will literally get better and better

over time and that's the power of daily

consistent use of of products as opposed

to bouncing around and trying things and

quitting on things and all that kind of

stuff which is kind of the stat status

quo for many of you and I know this

because I've dealt with it for almost 20

years that people can't stick with

something you know long enough to get

the results they need to see but like

everything else that is good in life

consistency and good habits can join

together will give you the best results

and that is the fundamental approach to

good skin care and good anti-aging all

right folks I hope that put it into

perspective gave you kind of an idea of

these five top ingredients and how they

can really manifest positive changes in

your skin if you have any questions drop

them in the comments below if you

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relatively confusing landscape of skin

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folks thanks so much have a good one