How India transformed global fashion | Fabrics | Nutshell

Nutshell
1 Feb 202107:21

Summary

TLDRThis script delves into the rich history of Indian textiles, highlighting their global influence from ancient times to the modern era. It discusses the early development of cotton fabric production in India, the introduction of complex designs and dyeing techniques, and the impact of historical figures like Alexander the Great and Marco Polo. The narrative also touches on the industrial revolution's effect on the Indian textile industry, British colonial policies, and the resurgence of traditional Indian textiles post-independence, emphasizing India's enduring contribution to the world of fashion.

Takeaways

  • 😀 India has a rich history in textile production, with contributions to fashion spanning centuries.
  • 📚 The term 'muslin' is believed to have originated from the place Machilipatnam in Andhra Pradesh, known for its light cotton fabric exports.
  • 🌍 Indian cotton textiles were popular not only in the West but also in Eastern countries, with Marco Polo noting the exquisite craftsmanship during his travels in the 13th century.
  • 👑 The Mughal era saw the development of complex and stylish textiles, with designs influenced by both Chinese and European interactions.
  • 🌈 Indian textile dyeing techniques were unique, allowing for colors that did not fade easily, such as the 'Royal Bengal Tiger' and 'Bengal Indigo'.
  • 💰 The British East India Company and Dutch East India Company's trade practices significantly boosted the export of Indian textiles in the 16th to 18th centuries.
  • 🏭 The beginning of the modern textile industry in India can be traced back to 1818 with the establishment of a textile mill near the Food Processor in Kheda.
  • 📉 British rule had a detrimental impact on the Indian textile industry, imposing taxes and restrictions that favored British textiles over Indian products.
  • 🔄 The Industrial Revolution led to an increased demand for fabric, with cotton becoming a democratic and progressive fabric due to its affordability and accessibility.
  • 👕 Mahatma Gandhi recognized the potential of the Indian textile industry and turned 'Khadi' into a symbol of resistance against the British during the independence struggle.
  • 🌟 Post-independence, India has strived to revive its traditional textiles, with fabrics like Patola sarees, Paithani, and Banarasi silk regaining their fame worldwide.

Q & A

  • What significant contribution did India make to the world of fashion throughout history?

    -India has historically contributed significantly to the fashion world with its soft cotton fabrics, advanced dyeing techniques, and hand wash processes. These innovations made Indian textiles popular globally, especially during the time of Alexander the Great and later in the Middle Ages.

  • What is the origin of the term 'Muslin' and how was it related to the Indian textile industry?

    -The term 'Muslin' is believed to have originated from the place Machilipatnam in the Andhra Pradesh region of India, known for its light and airy cotton fabric. This fabric was exported and became synonymous with the high-quality cotton textiles produced in India.

  • How did Indian cotton textiles become popular in Europe and other parts of the world?

    -Indian cotton textiles became popular due to their softness, beauty, and unique dyeing techniques. They were in demand in Western as well as Eastern countries, with travelers like Marco Polo documenting their appeal in the 13th century.

  • What was the impact of the British East India Company on the Indian textile industry?

    -The British East India Company, along with the Dutch East India Company, significantly increased the export of Indian textiles by trading cotton for spices and other goods. This trade helped to spread Indian textiles across the globe and establish their reputation.

  • How did the Industrial Revolution in Britain affect the Indian textile industry?

    -The Industrial Revolution in Britain led to a decline in the Indian textile industry as British mills began to produce textiles more cheaply and in larger quantities. Indian producers faced challenges due to British trade policies and tariffs, which favored British textiles.

  • What was the role of Mahatma Gandhi in reviving the Indian textile industry after independence?

    -Mahatma Gandhi played a pivotal role in reviving the Indian textile industry by promoting the use of Khadi, a handspun, handwoven cloth. He made Khadi a symbol of the independence movement and encouraged self-reliance in textile production.

  • What unique dyeing techniques were used in ancient India for textiles?

    -Ancient India used unique dyeing techniques such as 'Parwez' and 'Royal Bengal Tiger,' which involved using the roots of certain plants to create vibrant colors that did not fade easily. Another technique was 'Baikuntha Indigo,' which produced a distinct blue color.

  • How did the British influence change the fashion trends in India during the Mughal period?

    -The British influence introduced complex and stylish designs into Indian textiles during the Mughal period. This was partly due to the deep love for flowers that Emperor Babar had, which led to the incorporation of floral designs in textiles.

  • What was the significance of cotton in the Indian textile industry, and how was it used in the production of textiles?

    -Cotton was significant in the Indian textile industry due to its softness and breathability. It was used to produce a variety of textiles, including the lightweight and airy Muslin, which was highly sought after for its quality and comfort.

  • How did the Indian textile industry adapt to the changing fashion trends in the 18th and 19th centuries?

    -The Indian textile industry adapted by incorporating new designs and techniques to meet the demands of the changing fashion trends. The introduction of printed cotton and the use of cotton instead of silk for certain garments made Indian textiles more democratic and progressive.

  • What were the challenges faced by the Indian textile industry during the British colonial period?

    -During the British colonial period, the Indian textile industry faced challenges such as the imposition of high taxes, restrictions on trade, and the dominance of British textiles in the market. These policies stifled the growth of the Indian industry and led to a decline in its global prominence.

Outlines

00:00

👘 Indian Textile Heritage and Global Influence

The first paragraph delves into the rich history of Indian textiles, highlighting India's longstanding contribution to the fashion world. It mentions the early development of cotton fabric production in India, dating back to the 11th century BC, as described in the Rigveda. The script also explores how Indian cotton became globally renowned, especially after Alexander the Great's encounter with it in 326 BC. The paragraph discusses the export of light and airy cotton fabrics like 'Musalin' or 'Mull' from Machilipatnam, Andhra Pradesh, which became popular in Western and Eastern countries. It further details the influence of Indian textiles on global fashion, including the impact of Indian cotton on the Roman Empire and the spread of Indian textile techniques like dyeing and printing. The paragraph also touches on the British East India Company's role in promoting Indian textile exports and the unique business practices of Indian traders that contributed to the global popularity of Indian textiles.

05:00

🏭 Evolution of the Indian Textile Industry and Colonial Impact

The second paragraph focuses on the evolution of the Indian textile industry from the 18th century onwards, with the establishment of the first textile mill near the Food Processor in Kheda in 1818. It discusses the growth of the textile industry in various Indian cities, influenced by the industrial hubs of Manchester. However, the paragraph also highlights the negative impact of British colonial rule on the Indian textile industry, with the imposition of house taxes, restrictions, and control over prices and sales, which stifled the growth of Indian producers. The narrative shifts to the post-independence era, where India sought to revive its traditional textile crafts, such as Patola sarees, Paithani, and Banarasi, which have gained international recognition. The paragraph concludes by emphasizing India's continued influence in the global textile market, both in terms of traditional crafts and modern production.

Mindmap

Keywords

💡Cotton

Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant. It is one of the most important natural fibers used in the textile industry. In the video's context, cotton is highlighted as a significant material in India's textile history, with its production being renowned worldwide since ancient times. The script mentions 'cotton trees' and 'cotton fabric' as key components of India's textile exports and its historical significance in the fashion world.

💡Textile

Textile refers to a flexible material made by weaving, knitting, or felting fibers. It is the basis of the clothing and fashion industry. The video discusses the evolution and importance of textiles in India, from ancient techniques to modern industrial production. The script provides examples such as 'cotton textiles' and 'textile mills' to illustrate India's rich textile heritage and its impact on global fashion.

💡Handloom

Handloom refers to a method of textile production where weaving is done manually on a traditional loom. It is a significant aspect of India's textile tradition, known for its intricate designs and cultural significance. The video script mentions 'handloom' as a technique that has been developed in India for centuries, contributing to the country's reputation for producing high-quality textiles.

💡Dyeing

Dyeing is the process of imparting color to a fabric or yarn by immersing it in a dye bath. It is a critical step in textile production that adds aesthetic value to the material. The script discusses various dyeing techniques used in India, such as 'Indigo dyeing' and 'Royal Bengal Tiger', which were unique and contributed to the distinctiveness of Indian textiles.

💡Muslin

Muslin is a type of cotton fabric known for its fine texture and breathability. It has been a popular textile in India for centuries. The video script refers to 'Muslin' or 'Malmal' as a light and airy cotton fabric that was exported from India, becoming famous for its quality and delicacy.

💡Mughal

Mughal refers to the historical Mughal Empire in India, known for its significant contributions to art, architecture, and textiles. The script mentions the influence of the Mughal era on the development of complex and stylish designs in Indian textiles, including floral patterns that were deeply loved by figures like Emperor Babar.

💡Industrial Revolution

The Industrial Revolution was a period of rapid industrialization that began in Britain in the 18th century and spread to other parts of the world. The video discusses the impact of the Industrial Revolution on the textile industry in India, leading to the establishment of textile mills and the modernization of textile production. The script refers to the 'Industrial Revolution' in the context of the growth of the textile industry and the challenges faced by traditional Indian textile production.

💡Khadi

Khadi is a homespun, handwoven cotton cloth that became a symbol of the Indian independence movement, promoted by Mahatma Gandhi. The script highlights 'Khadi' as a representation of India's textile strength and as a symbol of the freedom struggle against British rule, emphasizing its cultural and political significance.

💡British East India Company

The British East India Company was an English company formed for the exploitation of trade with East India and other regions. The video script discusses the role of the British East India Company in the expansion of textile trade from India, particularly cotton textiles, and how it influenced the global market and impacted the Indian textile industry.

💡Fashion

Fashion refers to the style or practice of dressing and accessories characteristic of a certain period or culture. The script explores the influence of Indian textiles on global fashion trends, from ancient times to the modern era. Indian textiles, such as 'printed cotton' and 'muslin', are mentioned as having been popular in various parts of the world, shaping fashion and setting trends.

💡Textile Mills

Textile mills are facilities where fiber is processed and turned into textiles. The script discusses the establishment of textile mills in India, such as the one near the Kheda in 1818, marking the beginning of the modern textile industry in the country. The mills in cities like Ahmedabad, Mumbai, and Kanpur are mentioned, illustrating the industrialization of the textile sector in India.

Highlights

India has been known for its soft and beautiful textiles for centuries, with a rich history of textile production dating back to ancient times.

The 11th century BC Rigveda mentions cotton fabrics, indicating early development of textile craftsmanship in India.

Indian cotton fabric was renowned globally due to its unique lightness and the trees that produced it.

Alexander the Great's army discovered the superior quality of Indian cotton when they arrived in 326 BC.

Cotton fabric from the region of Machilipatnam, known for its light and airy texture, was highly exported during the Roman era.

Marco Polo in the 13th century wrote about the exquisite and soft textiles produced in Asia, particularly in India.

Indian textiles were popular not only in the West but also in Eastern countries, influencing fashion across the continents.

The term 'muslin' is believed to have originated from the port city of Masulipatnam, known for exporting the thin cotton fabric.

The 14th to 18th centuries saw the development of complex and stylish designs in Indian textiles, influenced by Chinese and European interactions.

The Mughal era, particularly under Emperor Babar, saw a deep appreciation for floral designs in textiles.

Indian dyeing techniques were unique, allowing for colors that did not fade easily, such as the royal Bengal tiger pattern.

The British East India Company and Dutch East India Company's trade with India boosted the export of Indian textiles in the 16th to 17th centuries.

British rule impacted the Indian textile industry, leading to a decline as machine production challenged traditional craftsmanship.

Post-independence, India saw a revival of traditional textiles, with Mahatma Gandhi promoting khadi as a symbol of resistance against the British.

The modern textile industry in India began in 1818 with the establishment of the first textile mill near the food processor in Kheda.

The industrial revolution led to an increase in demand and supply of fabrics, with cotton becoming a democratic and progressive fabric due to its affordability.

India's textile industry has made a significant impact globally, with its unique designs and dyeing techniques capturing the world's attention.

Despite the challenges of industrialization and British rule, India continues to leave its mark in the world of textiles, both traditional and modern.

Transcripts

play00:00

को दान गृह सज्जा मास्टरिन था काले को कैश

play00:04

विड्रा कमरबंद शोल्स इन शब्दों में कॉमन

play00:07

क्या है असल में यह सवाल भारत की देन है

play00:10

और अगर हम इतिहास में झांक कर देखें तो

play00:13

फैशन की दुनिया को भारत में इन शब्दों से

play00:16

कहीं ज्यादा दिया है युगों-युगों से

play00:19

इंडिया अपने मुलायम कपड़ों खूबसूरत डायन

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प्रिंटिंग की नया तकनीक को और हैंड वॉश के

play00:26

लिए प्रसिद्ध है दरअसल इंडियंस ने कपड़े

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बनाने की कांप्लेक्शन के काफी पहले ही

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डेवलप कर ली थी 11वीं सदी बीसी ऋग्वेद में

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पर इधर या डाइट कपड़े और प्रेस यानि खादर

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कपड़ों का वर्णन मिलता है भारत के अनोखे

play00:40

लाइट की वजह से यह कॉटन के पेड़ों में लगे

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जिससे यह बनाए गए और जिनको उनके यह बनाया

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गया कॉटन का कपड़ा इस कपड़े के उत्पादन के

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लिए भारत को विश्व भर में जाना जाने लगा

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जब अलेक्जेंडर थे ग्रेट और उनकी सेना 326

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बीसी में भारत की सरजमीं पर पहुंचे तो

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उन्होंने पाया कि यहां का

play01:00

कि उनके गर्म ऊनी कपड़ों से कईं ज्यादा

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रामदेव था दूसरी समय से तक इन कॉटन भारी

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मात्रा में रोग और ग्रीस पहुंचने लगा

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इनमें से एक प्रचलित सामग्री था हल्का और

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हवादार साधा कॉटन कपड़ा जिसका नाम था मसलन

play01:15

या मलमल कुछ आधुनिक इतिहासकारों का मानना

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है कि मसलन शब्द असल में आपके आंध्र

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प्रदेश में मछलीपट्टनम नाम की जगह से आया

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है इस जगह को रोमांचित महसूस बुलाते थे

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जहां से यह पतला कॉटन फेब्रिक एक्सपोर्ट

play01:29

होता था भारतीय कपड़े ना केवल पश्चिम में

play01:33

बल्कि पूर्वी देशों में भी लोकप्रिय हुए

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तेरहवीं सदी सी में मार्कोपोलो ने एशिया

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में अपने सफर की आपबीती लिखी उन्होंने

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उसमें कोई मांगलिक दोष के बारे में लिखा

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जहां दुनिया का सबसे मुलायम और खूबसूरत

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कपड़ा बनाया जाता था बकरम जो मकड़ी के

play01:48

जालों के दृश्य जैसा था 91 के टेक्सटाइल

play01:51

सेंटर में नील की रंगाई और गुजरात में सूट

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की कटाई यह विशेष कपड़े चाइना और साउथ इस

play01:57

एशिया के राजा महाराजाओं के लिए एक

play02:00

कोट किए जाते थे यहां तक कि मलेशिया की

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राजधानी अस्थियां भारत के प्रतिष्ठित

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कपड़े पहनती थी जैसे कि पटोला 14वीं सदी

play02:08

सी तक सल्तनत राज में रेशम 7 इन और

play02:11

ब्रोकेड खरीदने के लिए एक खास परमिट लगता

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था और सिर्फ धनवान लोग इसको हासिल कर पाते

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थे ऐसा कहा जाता है कि एक सुल्तान ने तो

play02:19

चार हजार रेशम के व्यूअर्स को विदेशी

play02:22

मेहमानों के लिए रोज जो कॉर्नर है नेक्स्ट

play02:24

और सोने के ब्रोकेड के उपहार बनाने के काम

play02:27

में लगा दिया था मुगलों के राज में 16वीं

play02:29

सदी से तकरीबन 18 वीं सदी तक भारतीय

play02:32

कपड़ों में कई जटिल और स्टाइल आई थिंक

play02:35

डेवलप हुई और साथ ही साथ फूलों के डिजाइन

play02:37

देखी जाने लगी ऐसा कहते हैं कि इसकी वजह

play02:40

थी शहंशाह बाबर जिन फूलों से गहरा प्रेम

play02:43

था इन्हें सदियों तक चाइना और यूरोप के

play02:45

इनफ्लुएंसर्स के मिलने से काफी बदलाव देखा

play02:48

गया लेकिन ऐसे फूलों की डिजाइंस आज भी

play02:51

काफी कॉमन है भारतीय कपड़ों की रंगाई यानि

play02:54

डायन की भी एक अनोखी तकनीक थी जिससे कि रन

play02:57

आसानी से छुपता नहीं था परवेज़

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रॉयल बेंगल टाइगर यह चमकीला लाल रंग छह

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नाम के सब्सक्राइब इन प्लांट्स की जड़ों

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से बनाया जाता था और जिसे सेशेल्स के चूरे

play03:08

से बनी टेंशन से भरपूर मिट्टी में उगाया

play03:10

जाता था या फिर यह बैकुंठा इंडिगो जिसका

play03:13

डायरेक्ट एक अलग उम्र इस प्लान से बनता है

play03:15

हाल तो यह था कि सोलहवीं और सत्रहवीं सदी

play03:18

सी तक आते-आते भारतीय टेक्सटाइल दुनिया के

play03:22

हर उस कंटेंट पर बिकने लगा जहां इनसानियत

play03:24

मौजूद थी पर में ऐसा क्या था जो इतने

play03:27

लोकप्रिय हो गए कुछ स्टोरी ने पाया कि

play03:30

इसका कारण था भारत के बिजनेस करने के

play03:33

अनोखे तरीके जिसमें खरीदारों को

play03:35

प्राथमिकता दी जाती है हर डिजाइन यूनिक

play03:38

होती थी और हर देश में एक्सपोर्ट की हुई

play03:40

चीज दूसरे देश में बेची गई चीज से अलग

play03:43

होती थी 150 अलग वैराइटीज तो केवल साउथ इस

play03:46

एशिया में बैठ जाती थी बुनाई में भारत की

play03:49

कुशलता पक्की रंगाई और बारे डिजाइनर

play03:51

दुनिया भर का दिल जीत लिया यहां के कपड़ों

play03:54

की नर्सरी ने अलग-अलग कल्चर्स के अनोखे

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डिमांड को स्वीकारा और इसी वजह से कई

play03:59

हिस्टोरियंस कहते हैं

play04:00

पूरी दुनिया में इसका मुनाफा स्थापित की

play04:02

सोलहों के शुरुआती दशकों में जब ब्रिटिश

play04:04

ईस्ट इंडिया कंपनी और डेट इज इंडिया कंपनी

play04:07

ने अपनी पकड़ जमाई तो उनकी व्यापार बढ़ाने

play04:10

की मुहिम से भारतीय साधु सम्मान के

play04:13

एक्सपोर्ट को और बढ़ावा मिला अगर आप सोच

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रहे हैं कि कैसे मुमकिन था तो यह कुछ ऐसे

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हुआ उनके सोने चांदी जैसे लदे जहाज पहले

play04:23

इंडिया आते और यहां से कॉटन टैक्सटाइल

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खरीदने जाते हैं ट्रेंस और कॉटन पहले को

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जैसे फैब्रिक जॉब भेज दिए जाते ना केवल

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पहनावे के लिए बल्कि दुनिया के अलग-अलग

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कोणों में एक करेंसी के तौर पर यह इतने

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गिनती समझे जाते थे कि मले द्वीप समूह में

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इसके बदले स्पाइसेस और अन्य सामान खरीदना

play04:41

जाता और अफ्रीका में इग्नोर किया इस लेख

play04:44

की खरीद-फरोख्त में दिए जाते बाकी बचा

play04:47

कुचा कपड़ा अमेरिका भेजा जाता जहां इसे

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शक्कर तंबाकू और बाकी सामान के बदले यूरोप

play04:53

इन जरा बेचा जाता जब भारतीय कॉटन यूरोपीय

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बाजार में बेचा जाने लगा तो वहां का फैशन

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अचानक बस

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अच्छा लगा तो टर्म के होने से अब कहीं

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ज्यादा मुलायम और खुली खुली ड्रेस बनानी

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मुमकिन हो गए जो कि दोनों फॉर्मल और

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इनफॉरमल उर्स के लिए उचित थी खोजने के लिए

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अब रेशमिया उनकी बजाय कॉटन इस्तेमाल किया

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जाने लगा खून और इधर से बनने वाला आउट

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ड्रॉप कॉटन का होने लगा और नाइट ड्रेस में

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प्रिंटेड कॉटन दिखने लगा कईलू इंडिया के

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कॉटन के कपड़ों को ज्यादा डेमोक्रेटिक और

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प्रोग्रेसिव मानने लगे ऐसा इसलिए था

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क्योंकि वह ज्यादा सस्ता था और हर तबके के

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लोग उसको खरीद सकते थे 18वीं सदी के बीच

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में इंडस्ट्रियल रिलेशन से फैब्रिक की

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डिमांड और सप्लाई दोनों बढ़ गई भारत के

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आधुनिक टेक्सटाइल इंडस्ट्री की शुरुआत

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1818 में खेड़ा के पास फूड प्रोसेसर में

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पहली टेक्सटाइल मिल की स्थापना से हुई

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इसके बाद देश के अलग-अलग शहरों में

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टेक्सटाइल मिल्स खोलने जैसे कि अहमदाबाद

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मुंबई और कानपुर जू के इंडस्ट्रियल हब

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मैनचेस्टर से प्रेरित भारत को जल्द ही

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मैनचेस्टर ऑफ ईस्ट कहा जाने लगा लेकिन

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अंग्रेजी शासन में भारतीय टेक्सटाइल

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इंडस्ट्रीज

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और होने लगी हमारे कार्यक्रम हाथ से काम

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करने के आदी थे और इस मशीनीकरण को चुनौती

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नहीं दे पाए साथ-साथ अंग्रेजों ने हाउस

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टैक्स और प्रतिबंध लगाने शुरू कर दिए ऐसे

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नियम बना दिए गए जिससे हर बिक्री की कीमत

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और शर्ट अंग्रेजी ग्राहक ही तय करते

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भारतीय उत्पादक अपनी प्रॉडक्शन कॉस्ट ही

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वसूल नहीं कर पा रहे थे दूसरी ओर गौरव की

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मिल्स इन ही कपड़ों के सकते ऑफिस बनाने

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लगे और इंडियन एयरलाइंस को हल्का सा बदल

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के धुंधले से उत्पादन करने लगे कुछ रिसर्च

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के मुताबिक 19वीं सदी के अंत तक भारत जो

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कि किसी जमाने में दुनिया के टेक्सटाइल

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एक्सपोर्टर्स मैसेज सबसे बड़ा एक्सपोर्टर

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हुआ करता था अब अंग्रेजी टेक्सटाइल्स का

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सबसे बड़ा इंपोर्टेंट में से एक बन गया पर

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भारत ने चरखे के दम पर अपनी प्रतिष्ठा

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बनाए रखी महात्मा गांधी जैसे स्वतंत्रता

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सेनानियों ने भारत की इस खोई हुई ताकत को

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समझा और खादी को अंग्रेजों के विरूद्ध

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स्वतंत्रता के संघर्ष का एक प्रतीक बनाया

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स्वतंत्रता के बाद से भारत में टेक्सटाइल

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में अपनी पुरानी रौनक लाने के लिए

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अलार्म उठाए हैं पटोला साड़ी पैठाणी बांधी

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और बनारसी जैसी कई साड़ियां आज काफी

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प्रसिद्ध है कपड़ों के दुनिया में इंडिया

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आज भी अपनी छाप छोड़ रहा है चाहे फिर वह

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इंटरनेशनल रनवे हो या अलमारी में रखे हुए

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