The Best Epoxy To Use

Summary

This video script offers an in-depth guide to using various Epoxy products, focusing on TotalBoat's range. It covers the importance of mix ratios, the use of kitchen scales for accuracy, and thorough mixing techniques to avoid air bubbles. The script explores different Epoxies for specific applications, such as Penetrating Epoxy for wood reinforcement, High Performance Epoxy as a versatile adhesive, and ThickSet for deep pours. It also introduces specialized Epoxies like Tabletop and Maker Epoxy for finishing and art projects, and Cast N Turn for casting and turning projects. The host emphasizes safety, proper mixing, and choosing the right Epoxy for the task to ensure successful results.

Takeaways

• 🛠️ Sponsored Content: The video is sponsored by TotalBoat, but the content applies to other epoxy manufacturers as well.
• 🔍 Epoxy Variety: There is a wide range of epoxy products available, each with specific use cases and properties.
• 📝 Importance of Ratios: Mixing epoxy requires precise ratios of hardener to resin, which can vary from product to product.
• 🔄 Mixing Techniques: Epoxy must be thoroughly mixed for 3-5 minutes until all ribbons of unmixed material are gone.
• ⚖️ Accurate Measurement: A kitchen scale is recommended for small batches to ensure precise ratios, while larger batches can be estimated by eye.
• 💨 Avoiding Air Bubbles: Epoxy should be mixed carefully to avoid trapping air bubbles, which can be removed using a vacuum chamber or heat gun.
• 👷‍♂️ Safety First: When working with epoxy, it's important to wear a respirator and gloves to protect from harmful fumes and skin contact.
• 🏞️ Penetrating Epoxy: This type of epoxy is used for penetrating and reinforcing wood, particularly in areas of rot or soft sections.
• 🔨 High Performance Epoxy: A versatile epoxy suitable for a wide range of applications, from gluing to small void filling.
• 🎨 Artistic Use: Epoxy can be used for artistic purposes, such as creating effects on tabletops or in crafts, with specific products like Maker Epoxy.
• 🛑 Product Selection: The choice of epoxy depends on the specific project requirements, including viscosity, curing time, and application method.

Q & A

What is the main purpose of the video?

The main purpose of the video is to educate viewers on the various types of epoxy products available, their specific uses, and the correct methods for mixing and applying them.

Why is the presenter sponsored by TotalBoat and what is their stance on other manufacturers?

The presenter is sponsored by TotalBoat because they love their products and work well with them. However, they mention that the principles discussed can generally apply to other manufacturers' products as well.

What is the significance of epoxy names according to the video?

According to the video, the names of epoxy products are often intuitively chosen to reflect their purpose, making it easier for users to understand what each product is designed for.

Why is it important to pay attention to the mixed ratios when working with epoxy?

The mixed ratios are crucial because an incorrect ratio of hardener to resin can result in the epoxy not curing properly, which can lead to failure of the project.

What is the recommendation for mixing small batches of epoxy?

For small batches of epoxy, the presenter recommends using a kitchen scale for precise measurement to ensure the correct ratios, as small deviations can significantly affect the outcome.

What is the suggested method for mixing epoxy to ensure a homogeneous state?

The suggested method is to stir the epoxy for three to five minutes until no ribbons or lines are visible in the mixture, indicating that the hardener and resin are fully integrated.

Why should pigments not be added to the epoxy mix until after the initial mixing?

Pigments should not be added until after the initial mixing is complete because they can hide the ribbons that indicate whether the epoxy is fully mixed. It's important to have a clear guide to know when the mixing is adequate.

What is the presenter's advice on using a paddle mixer with different viscosities of epoxy?

The advice is to use a low speed with thicker, more viscous epoxies to avoid whipping air and creating bubbles. With thinner epoxies, like those closer to water, the speed is less of a concern.

Why is it recommended to use a second 'pour bucket' when working with epoxy?

Using a second pour bucket ensures that any unincorporated bits of resin or hardener stuck on the sides or bottom of the mixing bucket do not get into the pour, which can lead to uncured spots in the final product.

What is the role of Penetrating Epoxy as described in the video?

Penetrating Epoxy is used to seep into wood and reinforce rotted sections or soft areas. It's very thin and has a two-to-one mix ratio, providing a good soak into the wood with a working time of about 20 minutes.

What are the differences between High Performance Epoxy and ThickSet Epoxy?

High Performance Epoxy is a general-purpose epoxy with a two-to-one mix ratio and is suitable for small voids and quick bonding. ThickSet Epoxy, on the other hand, is designed for deeper pours up to half an inch thick and has a three-to-one mix ratio, allowing for thicker applications in less time.

What is the new product Fathom Epoxy designed for and what is its maximum pour thickness?

Fathom Epoxy is designed for large pours, suitable for slabs up to two inches thick or small castings up to three inches thick. It is meant to reduce the number of pours needed for thick applications.

What are the key differences between Tabletop Epoxy and Maker Epoxy?

Tabletop Epoxy and Maker Epoxy are both one-to-one ratio epoxies. The key differences lie in their working times and intended uses. Tabletop Epoxy is designed for finishing surfaces like tables and has a shorter working time, while Maker Epoxy allows for a longer working time and is formulated for creating art pieces.

What is the Cast N Turn Urethane resin used for and what is a special requirement for using it with wood?

Cast N Turn Urethane resin is used for casting projects, especially by turners who want to create polished spheres or other artistic shapes. A special requirement when using it with wood is that the wood must be stabilized, such as with cactus juice, to prevent moisture from interacting with the resin and causing issues.

What are the Four-Minute Epoxy and Thixo Epoxy used for and how do they differ?

Four-Minute Epoxy is a quick-setting adhesive used for small repair jobs and has a working time of four minutes before it starts to harden. Thixo Epoxy is a thickened paste that comes pre-mixed in a cartridge with a mixing nozzle, designed for applications where a caulk gun would be useful and provides a strong, waterproof bond.

What are the considerations when using a vacuum chamber with High Performance Epoxy?

When using a vacuum chamber with High Performance Epoxy, it's important to note that the epoxy can expand significantly due to the removal of air bubbles. The epoxy should only be filled about 15-20% of the way in the cup to allow for this expansion, and care should be taken not to over-heat the epoxy, which can cause it to cure too quickly.

What is the importance of viscosity in epoxy and how does it affect the application?

Viscosity in epoxy refers to its thickness and flow characteristics. It affects how easily the epoxy can penetrate into materials, how well it self-levels, and how quickly it releases air bubbles. Thinner epoxies like Penetrating Epoxy are better for soaking into wood, while thicker ones like High Performance Epoxy are more suitable for filling gaps and bonding.

What are the consequences of not mixing epoxy thoroughly and what is a good practice to avoid this?

Not mixing epoxy thoroughly can result in uncured spots, uneven curing, and poor bonding. A good practice to avoid this is to use a second 'pour bucket', mixing the epoxy in one bucket and then pouring it into another for application, ensuring all components are well incorporated.

What are the signs of an epoxy 'kicking off' or going XO, and how can this be avoided?

An epoxy 'kicking off' or going XO is when it starts to cure too quickly, often due to being too thick or having too much volume. This can cause the epoxy to become hot, yellow, and crack. It can be avoided by ensuring the correct mix ratios, pouring to the appropriate depth, and not scraping unmixed epoxy from the sides of the mixing container.

What is the significance of using a heat gun when working with thinner epoxies like the ThickSets?

A heat gun can be used to help release air bubbles from thinner epoxies, especially when doing thin pours. It's a gentler heat source compared to a torch and helps in the even distribution of heat, which is beneficial for popping air bubbles without overheating the epoxy.

Outlines

00:00

🛠️ Epoxy Product Overview and Mixing Basics

The script introduces a variety of Epoxy products, emphasizing the importance of understanding their uses and properties. Sponsored by TotalBoat, the narrator discusses the general applicability of advice to other manufacturers' products. A step-by-step guide is promised to cover each Epoxy's use case, mixing ratios, and the significance of proper mixing to ensure a cure. The TotalBoat product names are highlighted for their intuitive indication of purpose, and the video aims to clarify any confusion with visual demonstrations. The importance of using a kitchen scale for small batches to maintain ratio accuracy is stressed, along with the technique of mixing until all traces of unmixed components, indicated by ribbons in the mixture, are gone.

05:01

🪵 Specialized Epoxy Uses and Application Tips

This paragraph delves into specific Epoxy products, starting with Penetrating Epoxy, which is used for reinforcing soft or rotted wood sections. The script explains the product's viscosity, mix ratio, and application time. It contrasts this with High Performance Epoxy, a versatile adhesive suitable for various materials, with different hardener options affecting the pot life. The narrator discusses the challenges of mixing thicker Epoxies and the potential for bubble formation, recommending slow mixing with a paddle mixer to avoid air entrapment. The paragraph concludes with advice on ensuring complete incorporation of the mixture before pouring and the use of a pour bucket to prevent unmixed resin or hardener from affecting the final product.

10:02

🏞️ Advanced Epoxy Techniques for River Tables and Art

The script continues with an exploration of advanced Epoxy applications, focusing on ThickSet products designed for deep pours such as river tables and thick slabs. It differentiates between the original ThickSet and the new Fathom product, each with their specific mix ratios and maximum pour depths. The narrator explains the importance of pour depth on the curing process and the risk of heat buildup with large volumes of Epoxy. The use of thinner Epoxies for bubble release and the application of heat guns for bubble removal are also discussed. The paragraph concludes with a comparison of Tabletop Epoxy and Maker Epoxy, highlighting their similarities and the differences in working time and viscosity, which are crucial for tabletop finishing and artistic applications.

15:04

🔧 Epoxy for Quick Repairs and Specialized Applications

This section introduces Epoxies designed for quick fixes and specialized tasks. Four-Minute Epoxy is highlighted for its rapid setup, suitable for small repairs and temporary jigs. The script clarifies that despite its name, it requires more time to fully cure. Thixo Epoxy is introduced as a thickened paste, which comes pre-mixed in a nozzle for ease of application, and is recommended for use in a caulk gun. The versatility of Epoxy as a universal adhesive is emphasized, noting its effectiveness across various materials. The paragraph concludes with a brief mention of other specialized Epoxies, such as FixWood for non-structural repairs and Flex Epoxy for flexible applications, encouraging viewers to explore further if their specific needs aren't met by the discussed products.

20:05

🛑 Importance of Mixing Technique and Epoxy Selection

The narrator demonstrates the consequences of improper mixing and the selection of inappropriate Epoxy types. By showing the negative outcomes of using High Performance Epoxy too thickly, such as overheating, yellowing, and improper curing, the importance of adhering to recommended pour depths and mixing ratios is reinforced. The script also illustrates the benefits of using a second bucket for pouring, ensuring a fully mixed Epoxy and avoiding the incorporation of unmixed resin or hardener. The paragraph concludes with a visual comparison of Epoxy viscosities, from Penetrating Epoxy's water-like consistency to Tabletop Epoxy's thicker, self-leveling nature, emphasizing the formulation differences to meet specific project requirements.

25:10

🎨 Artistic and Practical Epoxy Applications

The final paragraph showcases the practical use of Epoxy in artistic and practical scenarios. It discusses the application of Penetrating Epoxy on punky wood sections, demonstrating its absorption into the wood. The script also presents a visual comparison of Epoxy viscosities, ranging from the watery Penetrating Epoxy to the thicker High Performance and Tabletop Epoxies. The use of pigments with Epoxy is touched upon, and a simple tip test is conducted to illustrate the flow and consistency of each type. The video ends with a demonstration of Cast N Turn Urethane resin curing in a pressure pot, highlighting its clarity and suitability for turners and casting projects. The narrator concludes by encouraging viewers to explore Epoxy use, armed with a better understanding of the different products and their applications.

Keywords

💡Epoxy

Epoxy refers to a thermosetting polymer designed for high-strength adhesive or coating applications. In the video, epoxy is the central theme, with various types being discussed for different uses such as wood repair, table finishing, and art projects. The script mentions 'Epoxy products' and 'specialty Epoxies,' indicating the wide range of applications and formulations available.

💡TotalBoat

TotalBoat is a brand that the speaker is sponsored by and recommends for its Epoxy products. The video discusses several TotalBoat Epoxy products, emphasizing the speaker's preference and experience with them. The script indicates that the advice given is based on the speaker's positive experiences with TotalBoat, suggesting reliability and trust in their products.

💡Mix Ratios

Mix ratios in the context of Epoxy refer to the proportion of resin to hardener required for proper curing. The script explains different mix ratios such as 'one to one' or 'two to one,' which are crucial for the Epoxy's performance. The importance of accurate mixing is highlighted to ensure the Epoxy cures correctly, rather than being too slow or not at all.

💡Penetrating Epoxy

Penetrating Epoxy is a type of Epoxy that is designed to seep into porous materials like wood, reinforcing and stabilizing it. The script describes its use for 'rotted sections' or 'soft sections' in woodworking, illustrating its purpose in penetrating and firming up the wood.

💡High Performance Epoxy

High Performance Epoxy, as mentioned in the script, is a versatile Epoxy with different hardener options that affect its 'pot life' or working time. It is used for general purposes, including gluing and filling small voids, and is highlighted for its ability to bond different materials effectively.

💡ThickSet

ThickSet is a specialized Epoxy designed for deeper pours, such as filling large knotholes or creating river tables. The script differentiates between regular ThickSet and Fathom, a newer product that allows for even thicker pours. These products are crucial for achieving the desired thickness without the Epoxy 'kicking off' or curing too quickly and undesirably.

💡Tabletop Epoxy

Tabletop Epoxy is formulated for finishing surfaces like tables or bar tops with a thin, clear, and protective layer. The script emphasizes its use for 'tabletop' finishing, noting its self-leveling properties and the importance of working within its short 'working time' to achieve a smooth finish.

💡Maker Epoxy

Maker Epoxy is specially formulated for artistic applications, such as creating Epoxy art with designs like beaches, waves, or galaxies. The script contrasts Maker Epoxy with Tabletop Epoxy, noting that it has a longer working time to accommodate the creative process involved in detailed art projects.

💡Vacuum Chamber

A vacuum chamber is used in the Epoxy application process to remove air bubbles trapped within the mixture. The script mentions using a vacuum chamber for 'High Performance' Epoxy to ensure clarity and prevent bubbles, emphasizing the importance of degassing for certain Epoxy types to achieve a professional finish.

💡Cure

To cure, in the context of Epoxy, means to harden and fully set after mixing. The script discusses the curing process, noting that incorrect mix ratios can lead to failure to cure. It also touches on the exothermic reaction that generates heat during curing, which is essential for the Epoxy to harden properly.

💡Four-Minute Epoxy

Four-Minute Epoxy is a quick-setting Epoxy designed for fast repairs and small projects. The script clarifies that it provides 'four minutes of working time,' meaning the Epoxy should hold together well within this timeframe, but it does not fully cure immediately, requiring clamps and additional time to harden completely.

💡Thixo

Thixo is a thickened Epoxy paste that comes pre-mixed in a cartridge with a mixing nozzle for easy application. The script describes Thixo as being similar to a caulk, which is useful for applications where a strong bond is needed without the risk of runny Epoxy, such as in boat repair or other outdoor projects.

Highlights

Importance of understanding various Epoxy products and their uses.

Sponsorship by TotalBoat and its influence on product discussion.

The significance of Epoxy naming for intuitive understanding of purpose.

Explanation of Epoxy mix ratios and their critical role in curing.

Recommendation to use a kitchen scale for accurate small batch mixing.

Technique of mixing Epoxy for thorough molecule integration.

Use of a paddle mixer to avoid air and bubble incorporation.

The advantage of using two buckets to ensure proper mixing and avoid unincorporated Epoxy.

Introduction and uses of Penetrating Epoxy for wood reinforcement.

Description of High Performance Epoxy as a general-purpose adhesive.

Differentiation between ThickSet and Fathom Epoxies for varying pour depths.

Tabletop and Maker Epoxy distinctions for specific finishing and art applications.

The introduction of Cast N Turn Urethane resin for casting and turning projects.

Demonstration of Four-Minute Epoxy for quick repair jobs.

Use of Thixo Epoxy paste for strong bonds in mixed mediums.

Specialty Epoxies like FixWood and Flex Epoxy for unique repair scenarios.

Importance of selecting the right Epoxy for the job based on viscosity and purpose.

Practical demonstration of Epoxy viscosity and curing process.

Transcripts

- I didn't realize how important this video

was really gonna be until I laid everything out

and saw just how many Epoxy products there are

and there are even more specialty products.

Obviously I'm sponsored by TotalBoat

because I love their products, love working with them.

And there's quite a few,

but everything I talk about with their stuff,

will apply, generally speaking, to other manufacturers,

if you're invested in someone else's system,

the rules kind of carry over.

But if you're just getting into Epoxy,

which you probably are if you're watching this,

highly recommend TotalBoat,

and then when you come at me with questions,

if it's about TotalBoat, I know how to answer it.

If you ask me about other stuff,

I just don't have the experience.

So anyway, the nice thing is, at least for TotalBoat,

most of your questions are gonna be answered

just in the name.

They're very intuitively named for their purpose,

but that always isn't super clear.

So what I'm gonna do is go step-by-step

each Epoxy and use case, when you'd want to use each,

we're going to mix up some of each.

So you can actually see a lot of the things I talk about

instead of just blah, coming at you this way.

Because we have visuals, so we're gonna use the visuals.

There's a few baseline things I want to cover

before we get into each individual product,

that's going to apply to whatever resin you're mixing.

So if we do this first,

I think it'll make everything go better.

First one of the things we're gonna talk about

is mixed ratios.

This is a one to one.

This is a two to one.

Meaning, for every part of this,

you'll use one part of this.

For every two parts of this, you'll use one part of this.

So you'll use twice as much of A as you will B.

Whereas here you're gonna use equal parts.

On the TotalBoat cups, they make it really handy.

They have all different kinds of mix ratios

because depending on the Epoxy,

it might be a one to one, a two to one, a three to one,

even there's some five to ones.

So you always need to be mindful of the mixed ratio

because if your ratio of hardener to resin is incorrect,

it's not that it's going to just be slower or faster,

it's the difference between cure and not cure.

On that, if you're mixing really small batches,

I highly recommend using a kitchen scale

and use some metric because the numbers are easier.

Let's say you're mixing a total of 10 grams of Epoxy.

If you're off one of them by a gram,

you're off by 10%,

which is way outside the allowable deviation of your ratios.

Let's say you're mixing a hundred grams,

or a thousand grams.

Well, now you're only off,

if you're off by one gram on one of these,

you're off by 1%, or a 10th of a percent,

which obviously is well within the deviation of ratio.

So if you're using small amounts, use a kitchen scale.

If you're mixing big amounts,

you can use some pails and just try to eyeball it,

that's generally my rule is,

anything under about eight ounces I'll use a kitchen scale,

if it's over eight ounces total volume,

then I can normally just eyeball it.

And I trust that I'm going to be close enough,

just using the lines.

On mixing, the way these work is all the molecules

you have to have, you know,

hardener touching all the resin,

resin touching all the hardener.

This isn't going to like flow on its own

and come to its own nice homogenous state

where all the molecules are touching each other nicely.

If you don't mechanically get them there by stirring,

they're not going to.

So all of these you want to stir three to five minutes.

What I use, and we'll overlay some footage,

is you'll see ribbons, or lines, kind of stringies.

As these mix together,

as long as you're seeing those ribbons in the Epoxy,

I don't care what the time is,

you haven't mixed enough.

Whether you're using a stick, or,

I like to use a paddle mixer,

mix until those ribbons are gone

and then add your pigment.

I don't add pigment until after I mixed,

because if you add the pigment earlier,

it's going to hide those ribbons

and you won't have that nice guide to know,

hey, everything's clear, I'm fully mixed now.

So once I know it's clear, then I'll add it in.

A note on using the paddle mixer,

depending on which Epoxy you use,

some of them are more viscous or less viscous,

which is like how close you are to water,

versus how close you are to honey.

And if they're thicker, and you use a paddle mixer,

and you're going on a high speed,

you're gonna whip a whole bunch of air and bubbles into it.

And generally you don't want air and bubbles in your Epoxy.

So, if you're using one of these you want to go slow speed.

If you're using like the ThickSets

and the things that are closer to a water,

it doesn't matter as much because they're really thin

and that air is going to work its way out really easily.

But that is something to keep in mind.

Same if you're using a stick depending on how you stir it,

it's really easy to whip air into something with a stick

when you're mixing by hand.

Last note on mixing.

Like we talked about,

everything has to be fully incorporated.

It's really easy to have unincorporated bits

of just resin or hardener

stuck on the sides or bottom of the bucket.

So a very good technique to make sure you don't

botch the pour is once you're done mixing in your bucket,

pour it into a pour bucket

and then get rid of your mixing bucket.

It doesn't exist anymore.

That way, everything in here, you know is good,

because you're just gonna pour it,

you're not going to scrape anything

out of your mixing bucket,

just going to pour, once it's done pouring, that's trash.

So what you don't want to do,

let's say you're working on a pour and realize, oh,

I didn't mix enough, I need just a little bit more.

If you're using a pour bucket and you scraped, you know,

everything in here is good,

but what might happen is you're just not thinking,

because you're in the heat of the moment, you know,

you've only got so much time to do,

Epoxy's a little pricey,

you don't want to waste money,

so you didn't mix too much was like, oh,

and I don't want to have to, you know,

do another mix and add more pigment

and make sure I match the color.

I'm just going to scrape it in and it'll be fine,

and you get a big chunk of unmixed resin

or hardener that goes in your pour,

and then you have a spot that just never cures.

And, that's a really sad, tragic thing to have to deal with.

So to avoid that temptation, just use two buckets,

really simple solution.

Make sure you mix three to five minutes.

If you're using very small amounts,

use a kitchen scale to measure,

to make sure you nail your ratios,

and always be mindful of what the ratios are

and make sure you mix to the proper ratios,

because if you're not mixing the proper ratios,

things just go bad.

Anyway, let's talk about some products now.

First product I want to talk about is Penetrating Epoxy.

There isn't really a special rhyme or reason in the order

I'm going through these.

Just what I'm most comfortable with.

I use Penetrating Epoxy a lot.

As the name implies, it penetrates.

This is a very viscous, very watery Epoxy

that seeps into wood very nicely.

So if you have rotted sections

or something you need to firm up,

this is the Epoxy for that.

I use this when I do a lot of slab work, and on the edges,

I need to reinforce those edges where the sapwood

might've gotten soft, but we're trying to keep a live edge,

or if you had a knot where a branch was,

it started kind of rotting,

and you got soft sections,

but you don't want to have to chip it all out,

That's where Penetrating Epoxy comes to the rescue.

It's very thin.

It's two to one, mix,

you have about 20 minutes of working time.

This is meant to be really thin

and to soak into Epoxy though,

so if you mix very much in a cup,

it's going to heat up pretty quick.

So you need to get it out of that cup and spread.

Once it's spread, you don't have to worry about it,

kicking off and going too crazy.

But yeah, got about 20 minutes to work with.

And it's pretty intuitive.

Don't try to use this as a glue or anything else.

Now, the application says it takes like

two days to full cure.

The way I normally work with this

is all slathered on the wood.

And as long as the wood is drinking it

and I can see it soaking it down,

I'll just keep putting more on until it stops soaking it.

And then the next day I'll come back

and do anything I'm going to do on top of it,

whether that's, if I need to sand it,

because then I'm going to go to a finish,

or if I'm just stabilizing before I do some knothole fills,

or if I'm doing a river or something,

and I just need to stabilize the edge

before I did a thick pour of another Epoxy,

normally next day I'll come back and do that,

no problem.

Penetrating Epoxy.

Next up we have High Performance.

This is a two to one Epoxy.

This is sort of the general, all purpose,

Epoxy from TotalBoat.

We have a variety of hardeners,

we have a slow, medium and fast,

which just gives you different pot lives,

and on the back of the labels,

as well as on the website, whenever you order it,

it'll give you the pot life for all of them.

So, if you want it to kick off pretty quick, use it fast,

if you want more working time,

especially if you're gonna like put it in a vacuum chamber

to try to pull some of the bubbles out,

you want to use a slow to give you some more time.

This is a thicker Epoxy, so, when you're stirring it,

or if you use power drill,

you're definitely going to be working bubbles into it.

So if you're doing anything where you want it fairly clear,

you're going to want to put it into a vacuum chamber

to pull as many bubbles out.

One of the things to note on that, is it grows a lot.

So you only want to fill your cup

maybe 15 to 20% of the way through,

because it'll easily grow five times its size

once you pull a vacuum and it really starts foaming

and getting that air out.

A good way to cheat,

if you can get away without clear,

is if you're using any pigments,

pigments are really good at hiding air bubbles.

So if you're going to do pigmented,

or have any mica in there,

you can often get away

without having to worry about the de-gass

or you don't have to worry about de-gassing fully.

So yeah, anywhere where you might be tempted to use a PVA

or regular wood glue,

that's where High Performance comes in.

Small, not filling all, I'll do with this as well,

if you're doing fiberglass work,

this is where this stuff kind of shines.

And if there's anything else I'm doing

I normally go to a specialty product.

This is just kinda my general purpose.

I'm just trying to stick things together,

or I have small voids I'm trying to fill

up to maybe a quarter inch,

or if I want something done quickly

and I have a fast hardener as an option,

and I'll mix it with the fast hardener,

and when would you want to do this?

A lot of times if I'm doing, say, not filling work

and I've got some knots that are within the size

that High Performance is going to be good at,

where it's, you know, quarter inch,

maybe a few square inches,

I can pour this in here and with the fast Epoxy,

if I do it in the morning, by the afternoon,

I can be sanding it and moving on,

next day if I use the slow Epoxy,

but it might be too thin to use a ThickSet,

or something else.

And then for general purpose stuff,

if I'm using this just as a glue

instead of wood glue,

then just depends on what I'm gluing,

and how much time I think I need to have.

I'm a little impatient,

so I tend to like to lean towards the fast, when I can.

A lot of times I use the medium

just as sort of a good general purpose,

works all the way around,

if I need some more time, I'll use the slow, and yeah,

it's pretty much just like any other glue.

It just bonds even stronger.

And the nice thing about using Epoxy, a lot of times,

is it is sort of a great universal glue,

where if you're bringing two different mediums together,

say, you know, metal to wood,

or fabric to wood or fabric to metal, whatever,

it adheres to lots of different things really well,

better often than like PVA glue or something.

So yeah, if you're just looking for general purpose Epoxy,

nothing too specialized, High Performance, two to one,

it's a good way to go.

Talking about High Performance,

I teased the ThickSet a little bit.

So we're going to go ahead and talk about ThickSet,

which there are now two ThickSet products.

Fathom is the brand new one. We'll get to that.

So, ThickSet, we have a three to one ratio,

and for the Fathom, this is a two to one ratio.

Now you're going to use these

where you do a deeper portion

than when you're doing river tables,

if you have thick slabs that had big knotholes,

say you're talking, you know,

half inch thick slabs or deeper,

and you've got a good volume you need to fill,

these are the Epoxies you're going to want to use.

Why do you want use this over another one?

Well, because it has a deeper pour, basically.

If you poured High Performance say,

three eighths, half an inch thick,

it's going to kick off and go XO

and just look horrible and nasty,

is going to yellow and crack and ugh.

We'll show you what that looks like.

I'm going to do it on purpose so you can see

what we're talking about when we say,

oh, it kicked off, it went XO.

These Epoxies are set to go thicker.

So you can achieve that thickness in less pours,

which means less time.

With regular ThickSet, you're pretty much always safe

doing up to about a half inch pour.

So, half inch pour is kind of the max.

Let's say you have one and a half inch thick slab,

that would be three lifts of ThickSet,

whereas say you were doing High Performance.

I really don't like going over about an eighth of an inch

if you're doing a good volume,

so, you'd be talking about 12 pours, in that.

So obviously that's why we go towards these.

Also, they're are a lot more watery,

so they don't hold water.

I almost never put this stuff in a vacuum chamber

because when I pour it,

all the air bubbles just release really naturally.

I normally don't even come over with a heat gun and pop it

unless it's the very last level,

because it just releases everything really well.

Of course, doing large river tables,

even having to do two or three pours or four pours,

let's say you have a two inch thick slab,

which isn't horribly uncommon, you know,

this can get really tedious having to do that many pours.

So TotalBoat released just a few weeks ago, Fathom,

which is good for up to a two inch pour

if you're doing slabs.

If you're doing small castings,

you can go up to about three inches,

but this just depends on volume.

You can do three inches if you're doing a small area

and you don't ever want to use more than about,

if you're using more than a gallon,

definitely don't go over three inches.

If you're doing a three inch pour a gallon is the maximum.

If you're doing a big table, two inches,

all day long, that's the max,

because Epoxy cures through an exothermic reaction,

it generates heat,

that's what makes it cure and get hard.

But if that happens too quickly,

which happens when you have more volume together,

then it can get too hot.

When it gets too hot, bad things happen.

So there's always this balancing act in Epoxy

of having enough that you generate enough heat

for it to cure, and cure in a timely manner,

but not so much that the process kind of runs away

and ruins the Epoxy,

which is one of the things to be mindful with

using both of these,

is if you do a really thin pour,

it's going to take forever to cure.

You can do an eighth inch pour with ThickSet.

I've done it to skim coat things

and it'll take three or four days to fully cure

because it just doesn't have the volume

it needs to really come up to temperature and do its thing.

As long as you're pouring at least a quarter inch thick,

you're going to be pretty golden.

If you're in three eights to half inch,

that's a really optimum,

over half inch, it might run away.

With the Fathom,

that's even more critical that you have a minimum pour,

you need to use at least half a gallon of this,

whatever your pour is,

if you're using less than a half a gallon,

you're just not going to have the volume needed.

Or I would say if it's under half an inch.

You need to make sure at least half an inch thick,

or half a gallon to have enough mass

to get enough heat to make it cure,

or it's just never going to cure.

These are not for, you know, doing your small gap fillings.

This isn't Tabletop Epoxy for coating,

this isn't your general purpose glue.

These are for when you're doing those big pours

and use the appropriate product.

If you're doing say charcuterie boards and cutting boards,

and most of those are half to three quarters of an inch,

ThickSet all day long

is probably going to be your golden boy for that.

Whereas, the Fathom, you're really on the bottom end

of the thickness and volume for that.

But if you're doing big river tables,

Fathom is going to be your golden boy on that,

because we can go up to two inches.

So we're doing one pour instead of,

you know, 2, 3, 4 pours.

And that's kind of the difference here.

And again, you don't have to do,

worry about doing vacuum chamber and all that stuff.

I really like these products, the, this,

and the Penetrating Epoxy

are probably two of the products I use the most.

Anyway, let's move on to the next.

Next up we have another duo.

Tabletop Epoxy and Maker Epoxy.

These are pretty similar, but different use cases,

especially formulated for each,

which is fairly intuitive in the name,

your Tabletop Epoxy.

As you'd think, when you go and you see,

or if you have a table or a bar top,

and you want to finish it with Epoxy,

So it's an Epoxy cure top,

use Tabletop, as the name implies.

When you see all the super cool Epoxy art,

where people do the beaches and the waves

or the cool clocks with the galaxies

and all that kind of stuff,

Maker Epoxy is formulated specially for that.

These are both one-to-one, and are fairly similar.

Big difference you're gonna run into is

working time and thickness.

This is made to be very thin

so you can build those thin layers on top of each other

and still cure well.

You don't want to mix up more than you can use

in about 20 minutes.

This does technically have about a 60 minute working time,

but really you want to limit yourself to what you can do

in about 20 minutes.

It flows very well, self-levels very well.

That's true with both of them,

big difference is just going to be your working time.

You have more working time with your Maker Epoxy,

because when you're adding those pigments

and you're trying to float everything out

and get your designs and get your lacing

and pushing it around,

you're going to want more time.

Because your Tabletop Epoxy,

you only have about a 10 minute working time,

before this stuff starts to gel,

which when you're doing a tabletop is fine,

because all you're trying to do is pour this out,

spread it to get a fairly level coat,

and then let it level itself out.

You're not going to be fussing and messing with it.

So, Tabletop is the way you want to go for that.

And also you tend to get larger volumes of this

because this is made

generally to be used in a larger volume,

whereas when you're using Maker Epoxy

you're probably going to be doing art, smaller things,

so we have smaller volumes available.

Both of these respond very well to heat gun,

so you normally, you don't want . . .

have to throw this stuff in a vacuum chamber.

It releases air very well on it's own.

And because you're doing those thin pours,

it's really easy to get your heat gun in there

to remove any air bubbles that might be there.

But you'll only want to do that about two to three times.

If you keep chasing your Epoxy with a heat gun,

you're going to raise the temperature of it too quick

and do please avoid using a torch or flame.

That's just too much heat, too directed, too focused.

You might get lucky and everything might work out.

But if you're doing this a lot,

or if it's just your first time,

the best practice is, use a heat gun as gentler heat,

it's a lower temperature than a torch,

and it's better distributed.

That'll pop all those air bubbles.

But yeah, Tabletop and Maker Epoxy, pretty similar,

biggest difference is, your working time,

you have less working time for Tabletop,

more working time for Maker Epoxy.

So, just depending on what you want to do,

it's pretty easy to buy the right one.

One of them, TotalBoats' newest products,

just like the Fathom these were released the same week,

This is the Cast N Turn.

This is actually not an Epoxy resin,

this is a Urethane resin,

meaning it has to go into a pressure pot to cure.

These are for turners or anyone who casts things,

but a lot of people who turn when you have that

really cool , or you're doing,

you know, the Lego stuff,

and you want to put that into Epoxy and then turn it

and polish it and make a cool sphere,

whatever your artistic vision is.

This is the Epoxy for that, because it's a Urethane,

it compresses those air bubbles

a little bit better than Epoxy does,

and you're able to get larger pours

than you could with Epoxy

in the pressure pot.

Yeah, another thing to note is

this stuff is very, very moisture sensitive.

So if you are casting wood in it,

that wood has to be stabilized as something like

cactus juice before you put it into the pressure pot.

If you just mix this up with raw wood

that still has moisture in it,

the moisture is going to interact with Urethane resin,

and you're just going to have a really hot mess

that's very disappointing when you open it.

So make sure you stabilize any wood before you use it.

And yeah, now their new specialty resin,

so if you're doing any casting projects, Cast N Turn.

Next up, we have two Epoxies,

another kind of duo,

even though not necessarily.

Thixo and Four-Minute Epoxy.

Your Four-Minute Epoxy is like

Five-Minute Epoxy, Three-Minute Epoxy.

Basically you have, you know,

two chambers of each, when you push it,

it brings out an equal amount of both.

Then you can mix that together.

This is good for your quick little repair jobs.

So anywhere you'd use any kind of Five-Minute Epoxy,

now the thing to remember is a Four-Minute Epoxy

it's not four minutes to fully cured,

you have four minutes of working time.

So after four minutes,

things should be held together pretty well,

you might want to leave it in clamps longer,

but it still takes several hours to come to a full cure.

So you don't think you're gonna slap this together,

in five minutes you can start putting it

under load or stress.

But you know, this is the kind of stuff I use a lot

for repairing the kids' toys

or making little jigs

or just when I have small repair work has,

is really thick and easy to work with.

Four-Minute Epoxy.

The other thing is Thixo.

So when you use it in larger volumes

and you're trying to glue things together,

this is a thickened Epoxy paste,

has both components inside of it.

And then it has a mixing nozzle,

which is one advantage over using this Four-Minute Epoxy,

you have to mix this by hand.

Whereas once you screw your mixing nozzle on here,

it's got all these crazy little chambers

that it comes out fully mixed, ready to go,

kind of like a caulk.

Of course you do want to make sure you use

a heavy duty caulk gun with like an eight to one ratio,

because it is pretty hard to push this,

you know, the, the $3 caulk gun jobbies

just might not quite cut it.

So if you're gonna get this,

make sure you have a good heavy duty caulk gun

to go with it.

I had to do some boat repair,

so I used this.

A lot of places you might use

a construction adhesive, polyurethane glue,

you can probably get away with using Thixo instead,

and the nice thing is, is it is waterproof,

so anywhere water might be an issue, you can use it.

And it also fully cures in like four hours.

So it was pretty quick curing process

and the clamp time really isn't too bad.

I just started using this recently.

And so far, I really like it.

But yeah, if you have any, where that applying glue

from a caulk gun like caulk would be handy,

and you need a super tight, strong bond,

this is good stuff to go with.

And the nice thing again is because it is an Epoxy,

we're talking great with multi-medium,

so if you're gluing fiberglass to fiberglass,

metal to fiberglass, metal to wood, fabric to fiberglass,

whatever you got going on, it's great for mixed mediums.

Last up, Specialty Epoxies.

I'm not going to go deep in the woods with these,

but if you have a special use case where you're thinking,

man, the Epoxies are covered and talked about,

I just don't feel like any of them are really optimized.

There might be even an further specialized Epoxy.

Here's one example, this is FixWood,

so anywhere that you might use wood putty or wood filler,

you can use this, but it's Epoxy-based,

so you have all the water resistance,

you'd get with Epoxy .

This is for non-structural repairs though.

And then we also have Flex Epoxy,

so this is a flexible Epoxy,

so if you have components that might be moving or stretching

or coming apart in any way

where there's going to be a lot of load,

which normally glue does not like

if you have parts that are just going to

naturally be contracting and expanding against each other,

that tends to break glue bonds.

This is formulated just for that,

TotalBoat also has five to one,

which is specially formulated for fiberglass.

I don't do fiberglass works.

I don't have that here to demonstrate it.

And I want to say there's still several other,

even more specialized Epoxy products,

so don't ever be afraid to dig down

if you're like, oh, well, you covered it,

I don't think that quite fits.

There might be a product for you.

And if you can't find it on the website,

just feel free to reach out to a customer service.

And they'll be happy to pair you

with what is going to be best use case.

If like me, you're a woodworker who dabbles in metal work

and some mixed media,

then everything I covered

is everything you're going to need

and probably a lot more.

If you're starting out,

I'd say probably just the High Performance

is a good general purpose Epoxy

if you're using that as a glue,

if you want to do any kind of pours,

you're looking at ThickSet or ThickSet Fathom.

If you're working with a lot of slabs,

and you have punky material,

Penetrating Epoxy is something

you want to throw into the mix too.

If you want to do art, Maker Epoxy is made for art.

If you like doing Tabletop Epoxy,

where you know, you code everything,

or I've seen like people do the stamps

or guitar picks or pennies, and then coat that in an Epoxy,

your bar top, then Tabletop Epoxy

is going to be your jam for that.

So, most of the time it's pretty intuitive.

If you need something quick,

you know, Four-Minute Epoxy or the Thixo.

Most of the time in the name

kind of tells you exactly what you need.

It's not that daunting.

And all the information is on the label.

Things to keep in mind are just going to be

your working time, purpose, mix ratios,

and then following the good practice,

make sure you're wearing a respirator

and make sure you have gloves

because you want to keep this stuff off your body

and off of your clothes,

that you're mixing thoroughly,

use a second container so that

you don't have to worry about unmixed bits.

And then, you know,

just, are you concerned with bubbles?

We're not concerned with bubbles.

If you're concerned with bubbles, go with the thinner Epoxy,

like the ThickSets, or put your stuff in a vacuum chamber

to de-gass it and then make sure

you're coming back with the heat torch.

So here what I'm gonna do

is mix up some TotalBoat ThickSet

and some High Performance

so you can see the difference between

a very thin Epoxy and a much thicker Epoxy.

Then we're also going to take the two to one,

stick it in the vacuum chambers

so you can see how much it grows whenever we vacuum it,

as well as, check this out.

Speaking of specialized products,

if there's an Epoxy used a lot,

there are a metered pumps available.

This is actually adjustable for the ratio,

but a style made for two to one.

So whenever I use two to one medium,

sort of use the, you'll see I over-labeled it,

just dispenses the perfect ratio of both for me.

And here's how to use one of these ratioed cups.

I'm doing a three to one, so under here's my three-part mix.

And when I fill it up to the one

that's under the three

and now we'll get my one part mix

and also fill to the one under the one.

Yeah, if you look in there, you can kind of see.

- [Man] I can see the ribbons.

I mixed up the ThickSet on the right first,

and you can see how clear it already is.

Like no bubbles left, it let go of all of them.

And here's some two to one I just

finished mixing, and how many bubbles are still in it,

and it is struggling to let them go on its own.

So we're going to throw this in the vacuum chamber,

see how much it grows.

We have four ounces mixed.

And if you watch on the edge,

you might be able to see the bubbles

slowly making their way to the surface.

So when you do that thin eighth inch to quarter inch pour,

especially if you're like eighth inch or under,

you have a very good chance with a heat gun

to get the bubbles out.

But if you're going to be doing quarter-inch,

or maybe a little bit deeper

if you have small voids to fill,

you'll probably want to throw this in a vacuum chamber

to help get those bubbles out.

If you're trying to do it clear,

you have pigments mixed in that'll help hide any bubbles.

- [Man] We're up to the 14 ounce mark, it's almost doubled.

- [Man] After going through the vacuum chamber,

you can now see the High Performance

is about as clear as the ThickSet.

Got all that air out.

But this thing is pretty toasty.

One, because it's thicker than it needs to be,

and just because it's thicker than it needs to be,

and it's been in a vacuum.

So if I was going to pour this, I'd need to do it quick.

It's going to gel up pretty soon.

Had lunch and came back. We've got about a half inch.

Each, well, about a half inch of High Performance,

about three quarters of an inch ThickSet.

I see the ThickSet is almost kind of sorta

not really warm, still very watery.

It's let go of all its air,

just has the dirt that was on my mixer when I mixed it.

The two to one, this was more than twice the thickness

it should be, see it even melted the bottom.

It's shrunk a bunch and pulled away from the edges.

You can see even kind of melted the plastic some

and it's still toasty, toasty warm.

Want to call it, let me see if I can get this out of here

so you can get a better look.

This right here can happen with any Epoxy

when it kicks off, if it's too thick.

So whether that's Penetrating, once made a mistake

and mixed up a bunch of Penetrating instead of ThickSet,

it didn't like it, that was really traumatic.

But yeah, you can see it actually fused the bottom

and how much heat it put off.

We have these like weird, clear,

not clear pockets where it got all yellow,

and it shrunk a bunch.

It's all rounded off on the top where it shouldn't be.

And also, another lesson, we talked about

using that mixing bucket,

it's really sticky on the edges and the bottom,

feel in here how my glove's sticking to it

because those unmixed bits.

So imagine if this was in a pour, that'd be really bad,

but yeah, and also, that's super yellow.

This should be clear. It's another thing that happens,

I think I already said that though.

So, importance of pouring to the proper depth,

for whatever Epoxy you're using,

and also making sure you do mix it well,

because this was mixed well,

it's just the unmixed stuff on the sides that got scraped,

but, how we have these soft portions on the outside,

if you don't mix well, that'll just be all throughout.

You'll have weird squishy parts.

Whereas the top of this is actually cured. It's done.

So I just mixed up some Four-Minute Epoxy.

I'm sure you saw when it came out

that there was like a blue and a clear,

you can kind of see that in the tip,

one compartment's blue, one side is clear.

When you get it well mixed,

it should be nice and cloudy,

other thing is you can see is how thick this is.

It's like a paste.

So you don't have to worry about this like running.

And again, I use this on,

whenever I need to do like small repairs and stuff.

Another cool trick is, mix on some tape.

So obviously, you know, you need a mixing surface.

I have some little silicone bowls I'll use sometimes.

But a lot of times I just lay out a little bit of tape,

it gives you somewhere to mix

and then you can just rip it up, throw it away.

Yeah. That's what this stuff looks like.

Nice and thick.

Obviously not very good

for not filling or anything like this,

this is a kind of like where you might want to use

super glue, but you need a much stronger bond.

So we're showing a difference in viscosity.

We have High Performance, ThickSet, and Penetrating.

High Performance is a much thicker Epoxy,

as you can see.

As far as it goes, this actually is a fairly low viscosity.

Epoxy is not crazy thick, but this is fairly thick,

you can see how well it's really holding those bubbles.

Here's the ThickSet.

See how much smaller of a ribbon we have.

Much more watery, and all the air kind of

lets itself out even better.

And then here's the Penetrating,

which is basically like water.

It can't even really scoop it.

It just runs right off.

Got a punky section on this white oak,

so we're gonna use the Penetrating Epoxy on it

and you can see what I mean by soaking in or drinking it up.

Slather it on.

Get some over here where it's pretty solid too.

So where it was really punky,

you can see now how the wood has drunk it up,

and I'll put some more here for comparison.

See this is still wet.

That's, drank it up.

So what I do is as long as it's drinking it,

I'll just keep adding more until it stops drinking it.

And this is why the Penetrating Epoxy

is so much less viscous, so much thinner,

is, obviously a thicker fluid is going to have a harder time

penetrating into the wood.

So, if you want a penetrating Epoxy,

it needs to be really thin so it can, you know,

work its way through all the cells and fibers

and get down into the wood.

And that's what this does.

So just to better illustrate the difference in viscosity,

I have a little board with

what I believe is lowest to highest viscosity.

So, thinnest to thickest.

We have Penetrating Epoxy, ThickSet,

High Performance and Tabletop.

So I'm just going to put in a pigment to them,

so you can see them on the background here

and we'll just drizzle some on

and then we'll do a tip test so it runs,

as you can see this stuff of course is super watery,

and it's starting to kick off

because remember, Penetrating wants to be super thin

and I've got a little bucket here,

so that's going to get dramatic before long.

ThickSet, High Performance, Tabletop.

All right, now we'll do a little tip,

and you can also just see even just as I was dipping it,

or maybe it's not as obvious on camera,

but having worked with these,

you can really kind of tell the differences.

The Penetrating is very flat and so watery,

the ThickSet likes to kind of fill up spaces,

nice and watery though.

High Performance kind of sticks to itself pretty well.

Whereas the Tabletop with the self leveling element,

it likes to like kind of spread out

and find a nice thickness about an eighth of an inch

and it domes up more than the others as we get thicker,

we have, it's taller, and it domes up more.

Yeah, we'll do a little tip and then you can see

the difference in the speed and how everything runs.

So actually it looks like the High Performance

is thicker than the Tabletop.

It's running a little bit slower,

but you can see the ThickSet and Penetrating,

how much thinner they are.

They're going really well.

So yeah, very unscientific, different amounts.

I didn't like measure all these out.

So of course the amount of mass that each of these has,

is going to change how hard gravity is pulling on them,

blah, blah, blah.

But, you know, kind of gives you an idea.

You can see, they're different.

So, no joke I do do that sometimes like, hey,

is this just all the same stuff with different labels on it?

Absolutely not.

Each one of these Epoxies

is formulated for its specific purpose.

I wasn't sure how long this was going to take

with the High Performance, I showed you

what it looks like after it does go XO.

This is in the process of it,

that this Penetrating Epoxy

is kicking off some fumes,

so we're going to go outside with this.

Again, you can also see, yeah,

this is getting all gummy and crazy.

That's what happens when it kicks off,

it's a gel state and it just goes nuts.

Cast N Turn, going in the pressure pot.

- Just pulled this dude out of the pressure pot

after about 30 minutes and it is super duper clear.

The only haziness is on the bottom

from me constantly touching it.

And of course I didn't follow my own advice,

once again, another good demonstration.

See all this uncured stuff,

that wasn't because it needed more time.

That's stuff that wasn't mixed well.

So again, the importance of thoroughly mixing

and why, if you do a cast,

you obviously are probably gonna to try a cast

in whatever you're mixing in.

But yeah, this is what happens

if you scrape that unused stuff.

So, just use another bucket, mix in one,

pour into another, then use that bucket.

But yeah, here's the casting clear Urethane.

I want to say after about 20 minutes,

this should be fully cured in a pressure pot.

I ended up leaving it in for 30

just because we were doing some other stuff

with other Epoxies, but yeah,

this is ready to check up and turn,

which I don't have the label right now,

but if you're a Turner, Cast N Turn.

Anyway, I hope you learned something,

were inspired or at least entertained.

And if you've been daunted about getting into Epoxies

or you didn't know which one you needed to buy,

I hope you now know that.

And until next time,

make time to make something.