How to Replace a Transmission (Full DIY Guide)

Summary

In this video, ChrisFix demonstrates how to remove and install a transmission in your car or truck. He explains various reasons for transmission removal, such as clutch replacement or fixing a rear main seal. ChrisFix provides a detailed step-by-step guide, including the necessary tools, safety tips, and specific steps like lifting the vehicle, disconnecting the battery, and removing the driveshaft and starter. He emphasizes using the right equipment, such as a transmission jack, to avoid damage. The video concludes with installing a new transmission and test driving the car to ensure proper function.

Takeaways

• 🔧 Removing a transmission can be necessary for several reasons such as sending it out for a rebuild, replacing a worn clutch, fixing an oil leak, or replacing a bad bearing.
• ⚙️ Essential tools for the job include a ratchet, socket set, extensions, universal joint extensions, wrenches, torque wrench, breaker bar, jack, jack stands, drain pan, transmission fluid, and a transmission jack.
• 🚗 Safety is paramount: ensure the vehicle is lifted high enough and stably supported by jack stands. Using 12-ton jack stands provides more stability and height compared to 3-ton ones.
• 🔋 Start by disconnecting the negative battery cable to prevent any electrical issues.
• 🚀 Remove the shifter early in the process to avoid getting grease inside the car. This involves unscrewing the shift knob, removing the shifter trim, and unscrewing the shifter lever and boot.
• 🔩 For the exhaust, disconnect the oxygen sensors and remove the downpipe and X-pipe sections.
• 🛢️ Drain the transmission fluid to prevent spills and lighten the transmission, making it easier to handle.
• 🪛 Remove the driveshaft by unscrewing the bolts at the differential and sliding it out of the transmission.
• 🔌 Disconnect the wiring harness and remove the starter to access the transmission bolts.
• 🔗 Support the transmission with a jack before unbolting it from the engine. Ensure all bolts are removed and the transmission is lowered carefully.
• 🔁 Inspect and replace worn parts such as the throw-out bearing and clutch. If the transmission needs a rebuild, consider replacing it with a rebuilt unit.
• 🛠️ Reverse the removal steps for installation: transfer necessary parts to the new transmission, align and secure it to the engine, reconnect wiring, reinstall the driveshaft, exhaust, and shifter.
• 🧴 Fill the transmission with fluid through the shifter opening until it reaches the correct level.
• 🔋 Reconnect the negative battery cable and ensure all connections and bolts are properly secured.
• 🧰 Follow proper break-in procedures for the new transmission: drive normally for the first 500 miles without hard shifting or burnouts to ensure longevity.

Q & A

Why might someone need to remove a transmission from their car or truck?

A transmission may need to be removed to be rebuilt, to replace a worn-out clutch, or to address issues like a bad rear main seal, pilot bearing, or throw-out bearing.

What are the symptoms of a bad throw-out bearing as described in the video?

A bad throw-out bearing makes noise when the car is in neutral and the clutch is not pressed. The noise disappears when the clutch is pressed and returns when the clutch is released.

What tools are necessary for removing and installing a transmission according to the video?

The tools needed include a ratchet, socket set, extensions, universal joint extensions, wrenches, torque wrench, breaker bar, jack, jack stands, drain pan, transmission fluid, and a transmission jack.

What are the first steps to safely lift a vehicle for transmission removal?

The vehicle should be lifted high enough to remove the transmission using jack stands. It's important to place the jack stands far apart to avoid interference and to use ramps or wheels under the front tires for additional safety.

Why is it important to remove the shifter early in the process?

Removing the shifter early avoids getting the interior dirty since the work done later on could make the hands greasy and dirty.

What precautions should be taken when removing exhaust components?

Penetrating fluid should be sprayed on the exhaust fasteners to make removal easier, especially if they are rusted. Disconnecting the oxygen sensors from the wiring harness instead of unscrewing them from the exhaust is also recommended.

Why should transmission fluid be drained before removing the driveshaft?

Draining the transmission fluid prevents it from leaking out when the driveshaft is removed, avoids a mess, and lightens the transmission for easier removal.

How is the starter removed, and why is it necessary for transmission removal?

The starter, located at the junction of the engine and transmission, is removed by taking out three bolts. It's necessary to remove the starter to free the transmission for removal.

What steps are involved in disconnecting the wiring harness from the transmission?

The wiring harness clips are removed, the speed sensor is disconnected, clips are popped out, and the reverse light switch is unplugged to free the wiring harness from the transmission.

What is the final step before actually unbolting and removing the transmission?

The final step is to support the transmission with a transmission jack and strap it down securely to prevent it from falling. Then, the transmission mount is unbolted.

What is the importance of using thread locker on bolts during reassembly?

Thread locker prevents bolts from loosening due to vibrations and protects threads from rust, ensuring that the assembly stays secure over time.

How can you fill the transmission fluid more easily after reassembly?

Instead of using the fill hole on the side of the transmission, the fluid can be added through the hole where the shifter is installed. This method is easier and avoids making a mess.

What should be checked and replaced in the new transmission before installation?

Before installation, check and transfer necessary parts from the old transmission to the new one, such as the transmission mount and speed sensor, and replace the clutch fork and throw-out bearing if needed.

What are the initial steps to test drive the car after transmission installation?

During the test drive, go through each gear carefully, making sure there are no grinding sounds and the gears shift smoothly. Avoid hard driving for the first 500 miles to break in the new transmission and clutch properly.

Outlines

00:00

🚗 Introduction and Overview

ChrisFix introduces the video topic: how to remove and install a transmission in a car or truck. He outlines various reasons for needing this task, such as rebuilding the transmission, replacing a worn-out clutch, or fixing an oil leak due to a bad rear main seal. He provides an example with his Mustang's bad throw-out bearing, highlighting the diagnostic sound. ChrisFix reassures viewers that the process is manageable and lists the necessary tools, emphasizing the importance of using a transmission jack to avoid expensive mistakes.

05:02

🔧 Preparation and Initial Steps

The first step involves safely lifting the vehicle and removing several components to prepare for transmission removal. ChrisFix explains the need for adequate height to remove the transmission, suggesting the use of 12-ton jack stands for more stability and clearance. He provides safety tips, like using ramps and an extra jack for additional support. The next steps include disconnecting the negative battery cable, removing the shifter, and avoiding getting grease on the interior.

10:04

🔩 Removing the Exhaust and Draining Transmission Fluid

ChrisFix details the process of removing the exhaust system, emphasizing the importance of disconnecting the oxygen sensors from the wiring harness for easier reinstallation. He explains how to drain the transmission fluid to avoid messes when removing the drive shaft and highlights the benefits of lighter transmission for easier handling. He shows how to remove the driveshaft bolts using a twelve-point wrench and addresses common issues like stuck bolts.

15:05

🛠️ Disconnecting the Starter and Wiring Harness

The video covers the removal of the starter motor, located at the junction of the engine and transmission. ChrisFix explains the need to disconnect the starter without removing it completely, providing access to transmission bolts. He details how to disconnect and set aside the wiring harness to avoid entanglement during transmission removal. ChrisFix also demonstrates removing the clutch cable and transmission mount, emphasizing proper support for the transmission to prevent damage.

20:05

⚙️ Removing the Transmission

ChrisFix explains how to unbolt the transmission from the engine, identifying the locations of the nine bolts. He suggests methods to access the hard-to-reach top bolts, either by tilting the transmission or using a long ratcheting wrench. After removing the bolts, he stresses the importance of ensuring no gaps remain between the transmission and engine before tightening the bolts. He concludes by removing the transmission and assessing the throw-out bearing, finding it in need of replacement.

25:09

🔧 Replacing and Reinstalling Components

With the transmission removed, ChrisFix discusses replacing the throw-out bearing, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear main seal, and pilot bearing. He highlights the importance of inspecting the input shaft for play, finding the old transmission in need of a rebuild. He then transitions to installing a rebuilt transmission, transferring necessary components like the transmission mount and speed sensor. ChrisFix emphasizes using thread locker on bolts to prevent loosening and rust.

🔧 Final Installation and Testing

ChrisFix completes the installation by securing the transmission mount and reinstalling the wiring harness and starter. He highlights the importance of using thread locker on bolts and ensuring the driveshaft is clean and lubricated before installation. He explains how to fill the transmission with fluid through the shifter hole for convenience and tests the newly installed transmission. ChrisFix advises on a gentle break-in period to ensure longevity and optimal performance.

Keywords

💡Transmission

The transmission is a crucial part of a vehicle that transfers power from the engine to the wheels. In the video, the focus is on removing and installing the transmission to address issues such as a bad throw-out bearing or a worn-out clutch. The detailed process involves various steps and tools to safely handle the transmission.

💡Throw-out bearing

The throw-out bearing is a part of the clutch system that helps disengage the clutch when the pedal is pressed. In the script, a bad throw-out bearing is identified by a noise that disappears when the clutch is engaged. The video demonstrates replacing this component to prevent further damage.

💡Jack stands

Jack stands are tools used to support a vehicle after it has been lifted with a jack, ensuring stability and safety while working underneath. The video emphasizes the importance of using jack stands, particularly 12-ton stands, to provide enough height and stability for removing the transmission.

💡Clutch

The clutch is a mechanism in manual transmission vehicles that engages and disengages the power transmission from the engine to the gearbox. The video mentions replacing the clutch as a common reason for removing the transmission, highlighting its role in vehicle maintenance.

💡Penetrating fluid

Penetrating fluid is a lubricant used to loosen rusted or stuck bolts and nuts. The script suggests using this fluid on exhaust fasteners to make their removal easier, illustrating its importance in automotive repair tasks.

💡Torque wrench

A torque wrench is a tool used to apply a specific torque to a fastener, ensuring that bolts are tightened to the correct specifications. The video includes multiple instances where a torque wrench is used to ensure proper assembly and prevent damage from over-tightening.

💡Drive shaft

The drive shaft is a component that transmits torque from the transmission to the differential, which in turn drives the wheels. The video explains the process of removing the drive shaft as part of the transmission removal, including tips to avoid fluid leaks and manage the component safely.

💡Pilot bearing

The pilot bearing supports the end of the transmission's input shaft and allows it to rotate freely while the clutch is engaged. The video suggests checking and potentially replacing the pilot bearing during transmission work, as it can be a source of noise and vibration if faulty.

💡Speed sensor

A speed sensor monitors the rotation speed of the transmission and provides data to the vehicle's computer. The video covers the removal and reinstallation of the speed sensor, indicating its role in vehicle operation and diagnostics.

💡Exhaust system

The exhaust system directs and manages the exhaust gases from the engine out of the vehicle. The script includes steps to remove part of the exhaust system to access and remove the transmission, emphasizing the need to disconnect oxygen sensors and manage exhaust components carefully.

Highlights

Reasons for removing a transmission include sending it out for a rebuild, replacing a worn clutch, or addressing an oil leak indicating a bad rear main seal.

Symptoms of a bad throw-out bearing include noise that disappears when pressing the clutch and returns when releasing it.

Essential tools for removing a transmission include a ratchet, socket set, universal joint extension, wrenches, torque wrench, breaker bar, jack and jack stands, drain pan, transmission fluid, and a transmission jack.

Steps to remove the transmission include safely lifting the vehicle, removing the negative battery cable, removing the shifter, exhaust, draining transmission fluid, disconnecting the driveshaft, removing the starter, setting aside the wiring harness, unbolting the transmission mount, and unbolting and removing the transmission.

Tips for safely lifting a vehicle include using higher capacity jack stands, placing the jack stands as far apart as possible, and adding extra safety measures such as ramps or additional jacks.

Removing the shifter first helps avoid getting the interior dirty when hands are greasy.

Draining transmission fluid before removing the driveshaft prevents mess and lightens the transmission.

Removing stuck driveshaft bolts can be achieved by heating the surrounding metal and using a longer wrench for leverage.

Supporting the transmission with a jack before removing the transmission mount prevents unwanted stress on the motor mounts.

Using a pry bar helps separate the transmission from the engine, and supporting the engine with a jack prevents it from tilting.

Checking for play in the input shaft helps determine if the transmission needs a rebuild.

Replacing the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear main seal, and pilot bearing while the transmission is removed ensures comprehensive maintenance.

Using medium strength thread locker on bolts prevents them from loosening due to engine vibrations and rust.

Filling the transmission fluid from the shifter hole is easier and prevents interior mess.

Testing the new transmission involves going through each gear to ensure smooth shifting and avoiding hard driving for the first 500 miles to break in the new parts.

Transcripts

Hey guys ChrisFix here

And today i'm gonna show you how to remove and install a transmission in your car or your truck

Now the reason why you might need to remove a transmission may be you're going to send it out to get rebuilt

Or maybe you have a clutch that's wearing out. So you need to replace the clutch

You can also have an oil leak at the rear of your engine where the engine and transmission meet and that could be an indication

That you have a bad rear main seal

You could have a bad pilot bearing or a bad throw up bearing which is exactly what happened to my Mustang listen to this

So if we're in neutral and we go to start the car

Take our foot off the clutch

And that's a bad throw out bearing watch this if I press on the clutch it goes away

But when I take my foot off the clutch it comes right back

So before I cause any damage

I'm going to shut this off and let's get that fixed now in order to replace the throw up bearing as well as the other

Parts that I mentioned you need to drop the transmission out of the car or truck, but don't worry. It's not that difficult

I'm going to show you all my tips and tricks on how to remove the transmission and then how to install it so that you'll

Be able to do this at home yourself and here are all the tools that you're going to need

You're going to need a ratchet a good socket set some

Extensions and you're definitely going to want one of these universal joint extensions to get to the hard-to-reach bolts

You're going to want a couple of wrenches torque wrench and possibly a breaker bar. You're also gonna need a jack and jack stands

You're gonna need a drain pan and some transmission fluid and I highly suggest getting a transmission jack

I see a lot of guys try to take the transmission out using a regular jack a lot of times the transmission will fall over

You could crack the case. That would be a very expensive mistake. This is inexpensive

I'll link it in the description totally worth to get you could strap down the transmission

It'll just make your job that much easier with the amount of money that you're saving

It's totally worth the investment and that's just about everything you're gonna need to remove and install a transmission

So with that being said, let me show you the 10 steps to remove the transmission first

We need to safely lift the vehicle then remove the negative battery cable remove the shifter exhaust drain the transmission fluid disconnect the driveshaft

remove the starter remove and set aside the wiring harness unbolt the transmission mount and

Unbolt and remove the transmission and while that might seem like a lot it's really not that bad

what I did is I broke it down to a bunch of

Smaller easy to accomplish steps so that as we do this job

We could stay organized and I will include a link in the description

- this checklist so you could download it and print it if you want to use it with that said let's get started and the

First step is to lift and support the vehicle

and as you can see

I already safely lifted the car up and put it on jack stands just like you would any time you're working on your car

But I do have a few tips and tricks

Specifically for if you're removing the transmission, so let's cover them

And the first one is you need to make sure that your car is lifted high enough to remove a transmission

Transmissions are pretty big. So you need enough room to drop it down and slide it out in this case

I couldn't use ramps because my lowered car just wouldn't get lifted high enough

Well now if you have a lift at home great use it, but most people including myself don't have a lift

So I'll be using good old jack stands and instead of using your normal three ton jack stands

I went out and I bought myself some 12 ton jack stands the 12 ton jack stands will give you a lot more lift than

Your classic 3 ton, and I don't even have to extend the jack stand

So they're gonna be a lot more stable

Another trick when you're placing your Jack's you want to make sure you separate them as far apart as possible

So they're not right underneath the transmission

That way you could get your transmission jack under there and have plenty of room to work and drop that transmission out without

interfering with your jack stands

so for me the perfect place to put these Jack's was right on the frame rail and move them out far enough and it's also

On a nice solid support and my last quick tip for lifting your vehicle up has to do with safety even though we have two

Jack stands in the front and two in the rear

I still like to go in the front and slide something underneath the front tires. We're using a ramp

You could use a wheel whatever it is to keep you safe

I also like to put a jack on the front crossmember

lightly

Supporting it just in case you never know if you're removing the transmission and then the transmission bumps the jack now the cars falling on

A ramp and not falling on you

I always like to play it safe and when your cars safely lifted up now we can move on to the next step which is

To remove the negative battery cable

so pop open the cover and

Unscrew the clamp and slide the cable off the battery post set aside the cable and make sure it doesn't touch the battery post

So with the negative cable removed now we could go on to our next step and let's remove this

Shifter and the reason why you want to remove your shifter so early in the process. This is our third step

We haven't gotten under the car

We haven't drained transmission fluid done the exhaust any of that stuff, which could get you greasy and dirty right now

I could touch the interior and not have to worry about anything because my hands are

So make sure you do this first before you get your hands greasy

now let's make sure the car is in neutral and just

Unscrew the shift knob to remove it next remove the shifter trim by prying it upwards and slide it off the shifter lever

now we could unscrew these two nuts holding the shifter lever on and then slide the lever off the shifter like so

Then there's four bolts holding in the shifter boot. So unscrew all four of them

And because I have my hydro you brake tied into one of these bolts

I need to slide the boot cover up and over to remove it just like that

And finally, there's four bolts holding in the short shifter

so let's remove all these and

Now we can remove this shifter and with our shifter removed that's going to give us a lot more room to drop the transmission down

And nothing is gonna get hung up here

It'll also help when we fill the transmission with transmission fluid later on because we could fill it from right here instead of the side

Of the transmission, which becomes a mess

so now we can move on to the next step which is to remove the exhaust now you want to double check because in some

cars

You might not need to remove your exhaust system to get your transmission out in this case our transmission runs from the front here all

The way back to the X pipe, so we definitely have to remove the exhaust. Luckily. We don't have to remove the entire exhaust

We're going to just remove from the downpipe up here to the X pipe right here

But before we do that, we want to disconnect our oxygen sensors and instead of unscrewing each oxygen sensor from the exhaust

It's a lot easier to just disconnect them from the wiring harness

So just press down on this clip and then pull them apart like so

So with the two downstream option sensors disconnected now, we need to remove the two upstream oxygen sensors

There's one on this side of the exhaust right there. And there's one on the other side of the exhaust right there

So press down on the clip and pull to disconnect it now

We can move to the other side and disconnect this oxygen sensor the same way

Good. So with all the oxygen sensors disconnected now, we can remove the nuts holding in this downpipe and holding in that down pipe

So let's get started on the driver's side

I like to spray down the exhaust fasteners with penetrating fluid anytime I go to remove them

So they come off easier, especially if they're rusted now

We could get our 18 millimeter socket and remove the top nut and then remove the bottom one

Good. Now, let's do the same thing on the other side remove the top nut and for the bottom one

we need to use a

Universal joint extension because we don't have a straight shot at getting to that fastener since the frame is in the way so remove this

Nut good and with the two front exhaust pipes disconnected now, we can move to the back bolts behind the X pipe

There's four bolts that need to come out and using a ratcheting wrench makes this real quick and easy

Now with all four rear fasteners removed we could separate the exhaust pipes and remove the exhaust from the car

All right, so at the front of our exhaust removed now

we could go back under the car and our next step is to drain the transmission fluid now we want to do this because

We're gonna be removing the drive shaft, which means that fluid could come pouring out of the tail shaft

Especially when we drop the transmission down. We don't want to make a mess

So draining it now will prevent that mess

We also are gonna be replacing the clutch you might as well get some new fluid in there

so draining it out and filling up with some new fluid later will definitely help out and

finally draining the fluid out now is gonna lighten up this transmission the lighter the

Transmission the easier it is to remove so let's get that transmission fluid out of here and all you have to do

Right over here. We have the transmission drain plug

you're just gonna get a box end of a 3/8 ratchet and

Just crack it open like so and don't forget the drain pin and let's loosen this the rest of the way

beautiful now

We're gonna let all this fluid drain out and once it drains completely we could screw the drain bolt back in and tighten it up

Don't over tighten

It just make it snug because you could easily strip the threads in the aluminum transmission case

Alright and with our transmission fluid removed now, we can move on to our next step which is to remove the driveshaft

We don't have to worry about the driveshaft on this end because this just slides out once we remove the bolts

Where the driveshaft meets the differential now, there's four bolts holding this in since we're in neutral

Let's spin the driveshaft you can see there's two bolts right here

And there's two bolts on the other side

Now you want to set the parking brake that way when we get our wrench on here and we turn it the driveshaft

Doesn't move and one thing to keep an eye on with driveshaft bolts a lot of times

They're not the normal six point bolt that you're used to in this case. We're removing twelve point bolts

so just make sure that you're using a 12 point wrench or a 12 point socket when you're removing these bolts because the six point

Will strip this out. So again with the twelve point wrench on here now, we can remove these bolts

Oh, man, and that is not budging. Sometimes these get stuck on there pretty good

So it'll the bolt heat up the metal surrounding the bolt

And I'm also gonna be using a longer wrench to give me more leverage and there we go

That's how you remove a stuck driveshaft bolt

now follow the same process for the other bolts heat it up then loosen it and

Remove it now release the ebrake and spin the driveshaft

So we have access to the two other bolts

Then engage that ebrake again and the same as before heat around the bolt loosen it up and remove it

heat around the bolt loosen it up and

Remove it now the driveshaft should come right out back here

And in the front we want to slide it out with a catch can under the end of the transmission

Just to catch any extra fluid that might leak out and one trick I have is to get a sandwich bag and open it up

Around the end of the transmission. So when we lower it down, it won't leak everywhere if it tilts backwards

All right, and with this driveshaft removed, we are one step closer to removing the transmission

So let's get back underneath the car and work on the next step which is to remove the starter

The starter is located right where the engine and transmission meet. And in this case. It's on the passenger side right over here

So there are three bolts that are holding in our starter all of them

You have to get two from this back side. The first one is right here

The second one is right here and the third one. You can't even see it's tucked up back here

so let's start with these two which are a lot easier to remove first get the oxygen sensor wire out of the way then we

Need to break this nut free and then unscrew and remove this metal mount which is in the way now

Let's remove the first bolt holding in the starter good and with that bolt out

We don't have to disconnect any wires back here because we're gonna just have this starter. Hang right over here

We don't have to remove it completely. We just need to get out of the transmission bellhousing

So the next bolt we need to remove is this one right here and you can kind of feel it on the back here

But there's no room in here to get a ratchet

So what we're gonna do is we're gonna come around to the front of the engine and that's gonna give us better access

So if you take a look into this gap right here

You can see the second bolt that we need to get to and now to get all the way to that bolt

We're going to be using a long extension. So slide that extension all the way in

And get it on that bowhead

Then we could break it loose and loosen it the rest of the way and I'll get my hand back here

Good now to get to the third hard-to-reach bolt

Which is all the way back here while the trick to removing that bolt is to use a little quarter inch ratchet with an extension

and we'll get this ratchet back behind the starter get the socket on the bolt and

Break it loose and there's just enough room to move the ratchet back and forth to unscrew the bolt

So with that bolt removed now, we can remove the starter and set it aside

so it's out of the way and now we can move on to the next step which is to

Disconnect the wiring harness. We have a wiring harness that runs along the top of the transmission and it's clipped into the transmission

So we want to disconnect it

We don't actually have to remove it from the car

Just disconnect it and set it off to the side so that we can lower the transmission down without this getting hung up

So we're gonna start back here at the end of the wiring harness

There's a clip right here that we're gonna remove using one of these trim removal tools

So stick it underneath the clip and then pry upwards good. Now we have the speed sensor right here, which needs to get disconnected

so just press down on the tab and pull this out and

Then we have a clip here that needs to be popped out the reverse light switch here

Which could just be unplugged and the other clip which could be popped out as well?

Now we could set aside the harness and let's remove the dust cover on the transmission so we could remove the clutch cable

This is the clutch cable and to remove it get a pry bar and release the pressure from the clutch fork and slide the cable

Up and out of the fork

then use a flathead screwdriver to remove the retaining clip and then the clutch cable could be removed from the transmission and

Finally the last step before we remove the transmission. We need to remove the rear transmission mount right here. There's two bolts

There's one there and there's one there

But before we unbolt this we need to support the transmission

So it doesn't just fall that could put unwanted stress on the motor mounts in the front

So, let's slide the transmission jack in and crank it up

Good now we could strap down the transmission using the strap built into the jack and make sure it's tight

So this transmission won't fall off the jack

So with the transmission being strapped in and held up by the transmission jack now

We could remove the two bolts holding in this transmission mount starting with the driver side bolt

And once that's loose just wiggle it out like so and let's break free and remove the second and last bolt holding in this mount

Good alright, so with our transmission mount unbolted Wow, look at this

There is so much play in this transmission mount we're gonna have to replace that

But anyway with this unbolted

We've completed all of our steps so we could finally unbolt and remove the transmission and to do that

We need to unbolt the transmission from the engine. There are nine bolts holding this transmission in there's three bolts on this side

There's two bolts under the transmission

there's two bolts on top of the transmission and there's two bolts on the other side now to give you a better idea of where

All the bolts are laid out. Here's what it looks like without the transmission

You can see we have three bolts on the driver's side. We have two bolts on the bottom

We have the two bolts on the passenger side and then the two bolts at the top and now that you know

Where all nine bolts are located. This is actually really simple. The hardest ones are the two at the top, but don't worry

They're not that bad to get to and I have a trick to make it really easy

So let's get started and remove the three bolts on the driver side over here. That's one

Two

and

Three and with those three bolts removed you saw how easy that was now, let's remove the bottom two bolts

So let's get this one off right here

Good and then the other one as well

Good, and then there's two more bolts on the passenger side. That's one and

That's the other all right

Now we only have two more bolts on the top of the transmission and we can't see them on the passenger side

So we have to go to the driver's side in the back and if you look all the way on the top you can see

The bolt head right there and the other bolt which is right next to this bolt

You can't see it's on the other side of the transmission, but it's right next to it. Only a few inches to the side

So there are two ways to get to the two top bolts

The first way is to lower the transmission down a little bit with the jack

So it tilts the motor and tranny backwards and then get a really long

extension with a

universal joint at the end and

We're gonna slide that extension in and that will allow us to get to both the driver side bolt and the passenger side bolt

but I have another method that works for this car and it's a lot easier and

The second method is to grab a long ratcheting wrench and get to both of those bolts from the back of the engine bay

So we're gonna start with the passenger side bolt. Just get that wrench on there and let's break it free

Perfect. This is way easier than trying to do this from below the car now do the same thing on the driver's side

Break it free

Unscrew it and remove the bolt. And with this last bolt out all the transmission bolts have been removed

now what I like to do is I like to place them in order and exactly how they came out of the

Transmission that way you stay organized and know which bolts go exactly where so we have our two bottom bolts

We have the three driver side to passenger side and two top bolts

So with all the bolts out now

We could go underneath the car and finally remove the transmission

Now before we go and remove the transmission over the years

there's a lot of dust buildup inside that bell housing from the clutch and we don't want to breed that dust in it's very very

Bad also older clutches could be made with asbestos

So what I like to do is just get some plain water and spray down the inside of the bell housing

This will get a lot of that dust wet, so it doesn't become airborne the less dust the better

I also recommend that you use a good respirator like this full face respirator has two p100 filters filters out

99% of airborne particles it'll also protect your eyes and I'll be sure to link this in the description

so

You know the right one to get for this job and one more quick tip before we separate the transmission

We want to support the engine if we remove the transmission the engine can tilt backwards or it could tilt forwards and could cause damage

So just use your jacks with a piece of wood to evenly distribute the load on the oil pan and lightly

Jack up the engine. We don't want to press hard on it. We just want to support it now

we could finally separate the transmission from the engine and I like to use a pry bar to get it started because

Sometimes they could get stuck on there then wiggle the transmission loose a little and pull it straight

Back and again from the other side. I'm using a pry bar to separate it even further now with a little pulling and wiggling

Beautiful the transmission should come right out just like that. So let's lower it down and we can remove it from under the car

Alright with the transmission removed

now you want to replace the parts that went bad like

This throw out bearing look at how much play is in here. And that was definitely what was making the noise

so we need to replace this with a new one now is also a good time to check for play in the input shaft the

Engine spins this so it's an important part of the transmission. There should be no play. Oh, man, that's not good

There shouldn't be this much play in the input chef

You see how much movement there is up and down inside the side on a good transmission that this wouldn't budge

So that means that this transmission needs a rebuild

So luckily with the magic of editing out with the old and in with the new so I ended up getting a completely rebuilt transmission

Everything inside of here is brand new and you can see the input shift now has no play at all in it. Perfect

and since I had to remove the transmission to replace the throw out bearing I

Figured now would be a good time to replace the clutch pressure plate flywheel rear main seal and pilot bearing

But I'm not going to cover that in this video

I made an entire video on how to replace a clutch and all these other parts and I'll be sure to link that video in

The description so you can easily find it

So I'm gonna get all these parts into the car

Good, and now we could go and install the new transmission now the old transmission has a few parts

We need to move over from the old one to the new one and the first thing being this transmission mount

So let's remove the mounting bracket by removing these two nuts good and then the mount itself is held in with two bolts

So let's remove those and the mount comes right off now we want to remove the speed sensor located on the side of the transmission

So remove the single bolt holding it in and the sensor should pull right out

so let's transfer this over to our new transmission remove the plug push the speed sensor in and

Finally snug up the bolt holding this in good now

Let's install the transmission mount and if you guys remember this transmission mount was shot

I mean look at that came right apart in my hands so out with the old broken mount and in with a nice brand new

One so let's go get this installed

So screw both bolts by hand and I am using medium strength thread Locker on these threads then we could torque down both of these

bolts to 80

Foot-pounds now add the lower bracket and then that gets torque to 50 foot-pounds

And the last thing we need to do is install our new clutch fork and throw out bearing and that just slides right in

Just like that beautiful now we could go and install the transmission

Now before we go and try to mount the transmission up against the engine what I want to do, there's a metal support bar

Right here, which might interfere with trying to mount up the transmission

So I'm gonna quickly remove both bolts that hold this in it takes a few seconds and it'll make our lives so much easier

Now we want to get the transmission in place. So Jack it up

So it's level with the clutch and the input chef lines up with the pilot bearing hole for my car

I jack up the front of the engine to tilt the motor a little bit like that. It lines up better with the transmission

So the transmission could go straight in now. Here's an inside view of the installation

You want the input shaft to go through the pressure plate and clutch and push all the way on to the engine like that?

Again, but from the outside we want to line up the transmission and wiggle it as we push the transmission up against the engine mounting

surface

Like that and you want to make sure the transmission is completely seated against the back of the engine

There should be no gap here. You don't want to put bolts in and tighten the bolts down and close the gap

There should be no gap at all around the entire perimeter of the transmission

so now we could hand tighten all the bolts around the

transmission and on these bolts you want to be sure to use medium strength thread Locker that way the

vibrations of the engine and transmission won't loosen the bolts while you're driving and let's hand tighten the two bolts on the passenger side as

well and

Finally, we could hand tighten the two bolts at the top of the transmission

Here's the first top bolt and let's get that in there hand tight and here's the second top bolt again

Get it in there hand tight and since we're up here, let's torque down the first bolt

But there isn't room for a torque wrench, so I'm just gonna do it by feel and it should be about 46 foot-pounds

Good now we could use a torque wrench and torque the rest of these bolts in a crisscross pattern

246 foot-pounds don't tighten the bolts right next to the last one instead tighten the bolt across from the last one

So, you know the transmission is mounting to the engine evenly and we'll finish up here with the other top bolt

Good

Alright with those main transmission bolts torqued. Now we have these two less bolts

We need to tighten down which hold the bottom of the separator plate to the transmission

So tighten these down but don't over tighten them because they're threaded into the aluminum bell housing

Good and we're almost done. All that's left is just installing everything that we removed. I'm gonna quickly go through this

It's gonna be nice and easy. There's gonna be a little bit of a difference because we do have to add transmission fluid

I'll show you how to do that. It's really simple

So let's get all this done so we could go for our test drive

now before we go and lower this transmission jack

We want to install the two bolts holding in the transmission mounts to the rear. The transmission doesn't fall

And so I don't have to mention it over and over basically all the bolts that I'm going to be installing are gonna have medium

Strength thread Locker on them because it's gonna prevent those vibrations from loosening it up

It also prevents the threads from getting rusty

if you live in an area where there's a lot of rust so let's get these two bolts in and

Then torque them down to around 40 foot-pounds now, we can remove the transmission jack

So let's lower it down all the way and remove it now. Let's install the front

k-member brace that we took off to make it easier to install the transmission and torque these two bolts down to 50 foot-pounds and since

We're here. We might as well install the clutch cable. So take the cable and fish it through the hole

Then grab the retaining clip and push it into the slot

Now use a pry bar to push the clutch fork forward so we can mount the cable into the clutch fork like that

Finally, we could add the clutch fork cover and tighten down the bolt that holds it in next

Let's reattach our wiring harness start by pushing the clips into the mounting holes on the transmission

Then we could attach the reverse light sensor pigtail by pushing it in place one of my plastic retaining Clips broke

So I'm going to be using a zip tie to hold the wire to the transmission which will work perfectly now

let's bring the rest of the harness to the back of the transmission and connect the pigtail to the speed sensor and with that our

Wiring harness is in place. So let's go install the starter

So get the starter mounted in place into the bell housing and then hand tighten the bottom bolt first

Then the side bolt and finally the top bolt

Unfortunately, there's not enough room to get to the top or bottom bolts with a torque wrench

So instead I'm gonna be using a regular wrench and these bolts get tightened down to 18 foot pounds for the middle bolt

we can reach it with a long extension so that could get torqued down and for the last bolt we could use a wrench to

Get back here and tighten it

Good and one last thing we need to install the mounting bracket plate for the oxygen sensor pigtail

So get that tightened in place and then the pigtail pushes right in okay with our starter installed now

Let's go and install our driveshaft before you insert it into the transmission

You want to clean the end of the driveshaft make sure there's no dirt or dust on it

And then I like to lubricate it with a little bit of transmission fluid just so it doesn't go and dry when installing the driveshaft

Push it in as you turn a little to get the splines to line up to the transmission like that

Then we can install the rear of the driveshaft to the differential line up the bolt holes and let's get a bolt in to hold

It in place now, we're gonna hand tighten these two bolts and then turn the driveshaft and hand tighten the other two bolts

Unfortunately a torque wrench doesn't fit in here

So I'm going to tighten it with a regular wrench and all four of these bolts have to get torqued to about 95 pants

So that's pretty much as hard as I could pull on this good now

We could rotate to the other two and tighten these two down as well good and with all four bolts tightened down

Our driveshaft is in now. Let's go and add our transmission fluid and to do that

There is a fill plug at the top of our transmission right there

so let's get a ratchet on here to break that fill plug loose and then remove the fill plug and

Now we could add our transmission fluid

So what you would do is you get your hose you'd stick it in the fill hole and you pump that fluid into the fill

Hole until it starts coming out now. This could take a while, but I have an even faster method

That's a lot easier and that method is to fill it using the hole where your shifter goes

So put a funnel where the shifter goes and you could fill it from right here

Just be careful not to spill it because we don't want to get our interior dirty and look at how much easier this is

Now, I'm not sure if you notice but my car's transmission takes automatic transmission fluid. It takes a little over three quarts

so make sure you check your owners manual to see the specific type of fluid you need and the amount of fluid you'll need so

On the fourth bottle. I'm gonna keep an eye on the fill hole and once fluid starts coming out

The transmission is full good now put the fill plug back in

Clean up that dripping fluid and then tighten the plug

So it's snug and with our transmission filled now we can move on to installing the exhaust

So let's lift the front of the exhaust into place

Then torque each of the four nuts down to thirty foot pounds for a good seal and don't forget to connect the two oxygen sensors

Up here and these rear two oxygen sensors back here

good now we can finish up by getting the bolts in the rear of the exhaust and

Tighten these down so it clamps the exhaust together for a leak-free seal same with the other pipe

Make sure you tighten the bolts evenly so no exhaust seams leak out beautiful. Now, let's go install the shifter

So with the gasket in place mount the shifter onto the transmission and tighten down all four bolts in a crisscross pattern

This will evenly seat the shifter now. Let's add our shifter boot and

tighten these four bolts to hold it in place

Then we could add the shifter handle tighten those two nuts. So it's secure and then add our interior shift trim

So that snaps in place. And finally the last thing to do is to screw the shift knob on

Beautiful now we could get our negative battery cable connect it to the battery

And tighten the clamp so it's secure. All right, and with that everything is connected and put back together

Now we have one more thing we need to do and that is get the car back on the ground

So remove the jack stands in the front and I'm gonna lower the front tires on two ramps

Otherwise the front bumper will be tilted so low I wouldn't be able to remove the jack now

we see jack up the rear of the car remove both of these jack stands and

Lower the car down to the ground

With our old transmission out and our new transmission in we are on the most

Exciting part of the job and that is testing out our new transmission so clutch in. We're in neutral. Let's start her up

She's starting right up so let's go for a test drive

For our test drive. We want to go through each gear nice and easy

Make sure there's no grinds make sure it goes into each gear

And this already feels so much better than the old transmission

Now once we're in Top Gear we'll downshift to make sure your rep match

The gear should pop right in and this feels beautiful now for the first 500 miles

You don't want to drive hard. You want to break in the transmission with regular driving. Don't do burnouts

No dropping the clutch

No hard shifting that way our new transmission the clutch the flywheel all that stuff could break in properly and they'll last a good long

time

All right, so that is how you remove replace and install a transmission in your car or truck in this case

This was a rear-wheel drive setup

But if you're wondering it's very similar for a front-wheel drive setup instead of removing a drive shaft. You're gonna be removing axle shafts

otherwise very very similar

Also if you have an automatic again, very similar

You're gonna have a torque converter in here that's bolted up to a flywheel or flex plate

You're gonna have to unbolt that before you drop the transmission. You might also have cooler lines going to the transmission

Otherwise again very similar. And from this video you should be able to replace it

Hopefully this video was helpful. If it was remember to give it a thumbs up

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For more how-to videos like this and as always all the tools and products I used in this video are linked in the description