LIVING A WEEK with the DEATH TRIBE of Indonesia

Fearless & Far
18 Oct 202126:42

Summary

TLDRIn this documentary, Mike explores Tana Toraja, the 'Land of the Dead,' in search of answers about death. He witnesses their unique funeral rituals, including animal sacrifices and the belief in the soul's journey to Puya. Mike experiences the Ma'nene, a festival where the dead are exhumed and celebrated, challenging his views on death and life. The journey leads to a deeper understanding and acceptance of mortality, offering a perspective that death can be embraced and celebrated.

Takeaways

  • πŸ“š The documentary explores the cultural significance of death rituals in Tana Toraja, Indonesia, where death is viewed as a journey rather than an end.
  • 🌏 Traveler Mike visits Tana Toraja to confront his fear of death and to understand the unique perspectives on mortality held by the Torajan people.
  • πŸ“ Animal sacrifices, particularly of roosters and buffalo, play a crucial role in Torajan death rituals, symbolizing guidance and protection for the soul's journey to the afterlife.
  • 🏠 Traditional houses called Tongkonan and the display of water buffalo horns outside signify the importance of animal sacrifices in Torajan culture.
  • πŸ’° Families in Tana Toraja often save for decades to afford elaborate funerals, which can cost upwards of $30,000, reflecting the high value placed on honoring the deceased.
  • πŸƒ The albino water buffalo is considered special, with its white spots believed to emit light to guide the soul through the darkness of the afterlife.
  • πŸ‘₯ The deceased in Tana Toraja are considered part of the family until their funeral is held, sometimes remaining in the home for years, treated as 'sick' and offered food and conversation.
  • πŸŽ‰ Funerals in Tana Toraja are grand celebrations of life and death, involving the entire community and lasting multiple days, marking the soul's transition to the afterlife.
  • πŸ•Š The Ma'nene festival is a unique tradition where the dead are exhumed, cleaned, and interacted with by the living, symbolizing a reunion of family members across life and death.
  • 🌱 The contemplation and acceptance of death, as practiced in Tana Toraja, is likened to manure that fertilizes and generates a creative and fulfilling life.
  • 🌟 The documentary encourages viewers to broaden their perspectives on death, challenging their own beliefs and considering alternative cultural practices.

Q & A

  • What is the main theme of the documentary?

    -The main theme of the documentary is exploring cultural perspectives on death, particularly through the unique and elaborate funeral rituals of the Torajan people in Tana Toraja, Indonesia.

  • Why does Alan Watts suggest people consider death and observe skulls and skeletons?

    -Alan Watts suggests considering death and observing skulls and skeletons to provoke contemplation on what it means to go to sleep and never wake up, which can lead to a deeper understanding of life.

  • Why did Mike decide to travel to Tana Toraja?

    -Mike decided to travel to Tana Toraja to confront his fears and understand death better after experiencing a personal loss. He hoped to find answers and insights into dealing with death.

  • What are Tongkonan, and why are they significant?

    -Tongkonan are traditional houses in Tana Toraja, Indonesia. They are significant for their unique architecture and cultural importance, symbolizing the rich heritage of the Torajan people.

  • What role do animal sacrifices play in Torajan death rituals?

    -Animal sacrifices in Torajan death rituals are believed to accompany the soul of the deceased to the afterlife. Water buffalo, pigs, and chickens are sacrificed to ensure the soul's safe passage and protection in the afterlife.

  • What is the significance of the albino Water Buffalo in Torajan culture?

    -The albino Water Buffalo is considered special in Torajan culture because its white markings are believed to emit light, guiding the soul through the darkness of the afterlife.

  • How do the Torajan people view death and funerals?

    -The Torajan people view death as a significant transition that requires elaborate rituals and celebrations. Funerals are major events where families spend large sums of money to ensure their loved ones' proper passage to the afterlife.

  • What is the practice of Ma'nene, and why is it important?

    -Ma'nene is a practice where the Torajan people exhume and clean the bodies of their deceased ancestors, reaffirming their connection and paying respect. It reflects their belief in maintaining relationships with the dead.

  • What are tau tau, and who typically has them?

    -Tau tau are wooden effigies depicting the deceased, placed in caves or graves. They are typically made for royalty or significant individuals in Torajan society, symbolizing their presence and honoring their memory.

  • What lesson does Mike aim to convey through his journey and experiences in Tana Toraja?

    -Mike aims to convey that embracing and understanding different cultural perspectives on death can lead to a broader, more open-minded view of life and death. He encourages viewers to confront their fears and learn from diverse beliefs.

Outlines

00:00

πŸ•Š Journey to the Land of the Dead

The video script begins with a narrator's warning about graphic cultural events and a suggestion to keep an open mind. Alan Watts introduces the theme of death, urging viewers to contemplate their mortality. Mike, the traveler, shares his motivation for visiting Tana Toraja, Indonesia, a place known as the Land of the Dead, to confront his fears and seek answers about death. The script describes the arrival at a traditional village with Tongkonan houses and an unexpected encounter with a chicken sacrifice, which is part of the Torajan death rituals. The guide, Andri, explains the significance of the rooster's soul accompanying the deceased. The script sets the stage for an exploration of death rituals in a culture with unique views on mortality.

05:02

πŸƒ The Significance of Animal Sacrifice

This paragraph delves into the Torajan funeral rituals, emphasizing the importance of animal sacrifices, particularly Water Buffalo, which are believed to ensure the soul's passage to the afterlife. The script describes a visit to a sacrificial Buffalo market, where Buffalo of different colors are bred for specific purposes, such as emitting light in the afterlife. The market also features fighting roosters, which are massaged to increase their strength. The script highlights the cultural belief in the spiritual role of these animals, the economic implications of the sacrifices, and the personal reactions of Mike to these practices.

10:04

🏑 Encountering the Deceased in Tana Toraja

The script shifts focus to the treatment of the deceased in Tana Toraja, where the dead are considered part of the family until their funeral is held. Mike visits a home where a couple, deceased five years and three weeks ago, respectively, are still 'present' and treated as sick, with the family providing them with their favorite things and communicating with them through dreams. The script describes the anticipation of an upcoming funeral and the cultural practice of saving for a lavish celebration of death, which can involve spending tens of thousands of dollars on sacrifices.

15:06

πŸŒ… The Funeral and the Journey to the Afterlife

The script describes a funeral ceremony in progress, where the deceased is symbolically awakened for their journey to the afterlife. The spirits of previously sacrificed animals are said to accompany and protect the deceased. The Water Buffalo sacrifice is a pivotal moment in the ceremony, marking the beginning of the soul's journey, guided by the spirits of the sacrificed animals. Mike reflects on the cultural significance of the ceremony, the potential parallels with modern meat consumption, and the emotional impact of witnessing such a ritual.

20:08

πŸͺ¦ Exploring the Cliff Graves and Ma'nene Tradition

The script takes the viewer on a journey through the cliff graves of Tana Toraja, where the deceased are laid to rest in caves, trees, and carved stone graves. Mike and his guide explore these sites, discussing the cultural beliefs and practices, such as the Ma'nene tradition, where the dead are exhumed and cleaned by family members during a family reunion. The script describes the emotional experience of visiting these graves, the historical significance of the sites, and the personal reflections of Mike on the concept of death and ancestry.

25:11

🌱 The Ma'nene Festival: A Family Reunion with the Deceased

The script concludes with the Ma'nene festival, where family members gather to exhume, clean, and interact with the remains of their ancestors. Mike participates in this event, witnessing the joy and reverence with which families treat their deceased loved ones. The script captures the unique atmosphere of the festival, the cultural importance of maintaining connections with the dead, and Mike's personal takeaway from his experiences in Tana Toraja.

🌟 Reflections on Death and Cultural Perspectives

In the final paragraph, Mike reflects on his journey and the lessons learned from the Torajan people's approach to death. He contemplates the universality of death and the varied cultural responses to it, questioning the validity of labels such as 'strange' or 'weird' and suggesting that they reflect a narrow perspective. Mike concludes that death can be a source of creativity and life, and that the Torajan practices offer a valuable perspective on embracing and celebrating mortality.

Mindmap

Keywords

πŸ’‘Death Rituals

Death rituals are traditional practices performed to honor and remember the deceased. In the video, the Torajan people of Tana Toraja, Indonesia, have elaborate death rituals involving animal sacrifices and ceremonies that are deeply connected to their beliefs about the afterlife. The script mentions the importance of buffalo sacrifices, which are believed to ensure the soul's passage to the afterlife, and the Ma'nene festival, where bodies are exhumed and cleaned, illustrating the community's unique relationship with death.

πŸ’‘Tana Toraja

Tana Toraja, also known as the Land of the Dead, is a region in central Indonesia renowned for its unique cultural practices surrounding death. The video's narrator, Mike, travels to this location to explore and understand the Torajan people's perspectives on death and their associated rituals. The script describes Tana Toraja as a place where the dead are very much part of the family until they have had a proper funeral, which can be delayed for years due to the cost of the rituals.

πŸ’‘Animal Sacrifice

Animal sacrifice is a practice where animals are killed as part of a ritual to appease or communicate with a deity or spirit. In the context of the video, the Torajan people perform animal sacrifices during their death rituals, with chickens, pigs, and water buffalo being mentioned. The script describes a sacrificial buffalo market and the belief that the souls of the sacrificed animals accompany and protect the deceased in their journey to the afterlife.

πŸ’‘Tongkonan

Tongkonan refers to the traditional houses found in Tana Toraja, which are architecturally significant and culturally symbolic. The script describes these houses as iconic, with their unique design featuring a large, boat-like shape and a prominent ridgepole. The presence of water buffalo horns outside the houses signifies the number of sacrifices made during funerals, reflecting the importance of animal sacrifices in Torajan culture.

πŸ’‘Ma'nene

Ma'nene, also known as the 'walking dead festival,' is a unique Torajan tradition where the bodies of the deceased are exhumed, cleaned, and interacted with by family members. The script describes this festival as a family reunion where the living and the dead come together, with the deceased being treated as if they are still part of the family, demonstrating the Torajan people's acceptance and celebration of death.

πŸ’‘Cultural Perspective on Death

Cultural perspective on death refers to the way a society views and interacts with the concept of death. The video explores the Torajan people's unique cultural perspective, where death is not something to be feared but rather embraced and celebrated. The script illustrates this through the elaborate funerals, the belief in the continued presence of the deceased in the family home, and the Ma'nene festival.

πŸ’‘Afterlife

The afterlife is a concept referring to the existence or realm of an individual's consciousness after death. In the video, the Torajan people believe in a journey to the afterlife, which is facilitated by the souls of sacrificed animals. The script mentions 'Puya,' the place in the afterlife where souls rest, and the role of buffalo in guiding and protecting the souls during this journey.

πŸ’‘Tamakula

Tamakula is a term used by the Torajan people to refer to the deceased who have not yet had their funeral and are believed to still be present in the family home. The script describes how the deceased are treated as if they are sick and are provided with their favorite things, such as food, water, and music, and how the family speaks to them, believing that they communicate through dreams.

πŸ’‘Funeral

A funeral is a ceremony connected with the final disposition of a corpse, such as a burial or cremation, performed to honor the deceased. In the video, the Torajan funeral is depicted as a lavish and lengthy event that can last for days, involving feasting and celebration. The script mentions that families often save for decades to afford the expenses of a proper funeral, which can include the sacrifice of multiple buffalo.

πŸ’‘Soul

The soul, in various cultural and religious beliefs, is the immaterial essence, animating principle, or actuating cause of an individual's existence. In the context of the video, the Torajan people believe in the soul's journey to the afterlife, with the souls of sacrificed animals accompanying and aiding the deceased. The script discusses the belief that the soul needs to be 'awakened' during the funeral ceremony to begin its journey.

πŸ’‘Cultural Relativism

Cultural relativism is the principle that a person's beliefs, values, and practices should be understood based on that person's own culture, rather than be judged against the criteria of another culture. The video's narrator, Mike, reflects on his own cultural lens and the need to break it in order to understand and appreciate the Torajan perspective on death. The script emphasizes the importance of respecting and learning from different cultural practices and beliefs.

Highlights

Documentary contains graphic cultural events and encourages an open mind.

Alan Watts suggests contemplating death and observing skulls and skeletons.

Mike's travel goal is to confront fears and shed light on the unknown.

Mike's personal encounter with death led him to explore Tana Toraja, the Land of the Dead.

Tongkonan, traditional houses in Tana Toraja, are a cultural icon.

Animal sacrifices, including chickens, are integral to Torajan death rituals.

Andri, the local guide, helps Mike navigate remote villages to understand death rituals.

Buffaloes are sacrificed to ensure the soul's passage to the afterlife, Puya.

Torajan families save for decades to afford lavish funerals costing over $30,000.

Sacrificial Buffalo market showcases animals bred for specific colors and qualities.

White marks on Buffalo are believed to emit light for the soul's journey through the afterlife.

The dead in Tana Toraja are considered part of the family until their funeral is held.

Families provide offerings and communicate with their deceased loved ones.

Funerals in Tana Toraja can last for days and involve elaborate preparations.

Ma'nene is a festival where the dead are exhumed, cleaned, and reunited with the living.

Cave and cliff graves are common in Tana Toraja, with effigies called tau tau representing the deceased.

The contemplation and acceptance of death can lead to a more creative and fulfilling life.

Transcripts

play00:00

- [Narrator] Warning!

play00:01

This documentary contains images of graphic cultural events.

play00:05

Let's keep an open mind, okay?

play00:07

(soft music)

play00:09

- [Alan Watts] Everybody should do in their lifetime

play00:12

sometime two things:

play00:14

One, is to consider death.

play00:17

To observe skulls and skeletons,

play00:20

and to wonder what it will be like to go to sleep

play00:23

and never wake up.

play00:25

- [Mike] I travel to make myself uncomfortable

play00:30

to confront head-on the things that I'm scared of,

play00:34

to shed light in the dark corners,

play00:37

to hopefully one day have very few of them.

play00:42

A few years ago, I had to confront death in my own life.

play00:47

It was difficult.

play00:49

I didn't quite know how to deal with it.

play00:51

So, I decided to travel to a remote corner of our planet.

play00:56

Deep in central Indonesia, a place called Tana Toraja,

play00:59

(spiritual music)

play01:01

also known as the Land of the Dead.

play01:05

(suspense music)

play01:09

I went there to look for answers.

play01:12

And in the end, I think I might've found some.

play01:16

But, let's bring it back to the beginning.

play01:19

- We just arrived at a traditional village.

play01:21

One of the most iconic things about this area of Indonesia

play01:24

is its beautiful traditional houses called Tongkonan,

play01:28

and Andre just dropped this off quick,

play01:31

and he ran over and he's like, "Come, come, come."

play01:32

And I have no idea what's going on,

play01:33

but there's like 200 people here.

play01:37

Before arriving, I was warned that animal sacrifice

play01:40

was an important part of Torajan death rituals,

play01:44

though I didn't expect to see chickens on that list.

play01:48

(crowd chatter)

play01:55

This is how a few start.

play01:59

And what, what is it...

play02:00

What does it give to the ceremony?

play02:01

Why is it part of the ritual?

play02:03

- It is kind of...

play02:04

we believed on the soul of them?

play02:07

- Yeah, of course.

play02:09

Of the dying a rooster call.

play02:12

That will be also accompany the soul of the body.

play02:16

- Ahhh!

play02:18

- [Mike] This is my guide, Andri.

play02:19

He was born here and will be helping me get around to

play02:23

the remote villages to see the death rituals.

play02:26

- What animals were sacrificed for this funerals.

play02:28

There's chickens. There's Buffalo.

play02:30

- No chicken.

play02:31

- I guess its they're fighting though, right?

play02:33

- Yeah. Yeah.

play02:34

And then the Buffalo, Pigs.

play02:36

- And pigs as well?

play02:37

- And pigs as well.

play02:38

- And so what about, what about the Water Buffalo?

play02:41

- Water Buffalo that will be sacrificed

play02:43

will ensure the body, will ensure the body entering

play02:47

the soul of the body entering the Puya.

play02:49

- [Mike] Ensure the body,

play02:50

wasn't really something I understood at the time

play02:53

and if you are not quite sure what happens here either.

play02:56

Let me explain as we explore the village some more.

play02:59

Looking at some of these houses,

play03:02

you can see the importance of animal sacrifice

play03:04

in this culture.

play03:05

There are hundreds, hundreds of Water Buffalo horns.

play03:09

But if it's decoration outside of the houses and these ones

play03:13

- [Mike] Were only ones that've put there from the funerals.

play03:17

The reason why I chose to come here is that the Torajan are

play03:20

known for their unique views on death and their elaborate

play03:24

funeral rituals. While walking through the village,

play03:27

I see an albino Water Buffalo.

play03:31

I didn't think they existed.

play03:32

It was tied up beside some standing stones and each rock

play03:37

monolith symbolizes a funeral that has happened here in the

play03:40

past.

play03:41

Some of the villages we visited this trip had full-on stone

play03:45

hinges built beside them instead of saving for an elaborate

play03:49

life. They save a fortune for an elaborate death,

play03:53

a celebration of death.

play03:55

It's common for families to save for decades to send off

play04:00

their loved ones correctly and correctly means spending

play04:04

upwards of $30,000 on Buffalo to sacrifice.

play04:09

Buffalo are the vehicle to the afterlife.

play04:12

They ensure the body's passage.

play04:15

And just like going to prom,

play04:17

you want to spend money on your ride to get there.

play04:20

Andre tells me there's an entire sacrificial Buffalo market

play04:23

nearby.

play04:25

Okay, let's go.

play04:27

But first, breakfast.

play04:30

(chatter)

play04:39

Looks delicious. It's like rice.

play04:41

(Laughter)

play04:42

We arrive at the sacrificial Buffalo market and see a

play04:46

familiar site.

play04:48

It's also a market for fighting roosters.

play04:51

The locals believe that massaging their cocks increases

play04:54

blood flow to the muscles, making them stronger.

play04:58

Which I guess seems to be a universal truth.

play05:02

Water Buffalo are bred specifically to be different colors

play05:05

because Torajan believe the white marks on their skin

play05:08

emit light as they travel through the darkness

play05:11

of the afterlife.

play05:13

The more Buffalo sacrificed,

play05:15

the faster your soul gets to pull you,

play05:18

which happens because of the importance of this journey.

play05:22

Buffalo here are treated like Kings here at the market.

play05:26

They get showered,

play05:27

they get a haircut and they get hand-fed every single day.

play05:33

And this one is all black with the white heads,

play05:36

which means something special.

play05:37

- Yep.

play05:38

Like a Buffalo that will light the forehead.

play05:41

- Because the white is like a, like a headlight,

play05:43

- Yeah.

play05:44

the white spot emits light.

play05:46

- It will become like a torch.

play05:48

- So he'd be front of the entourage in front of the group

play05:50

leading the other Buffalo Forward with

play05:52

his forehead that glows like kinda like Rudolph the

play05:55

Red-Nosed Reindeer, Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer

play05:58

(Andre mumbles)

play06:01

(Mike laughs)

play06:03

- [Mike] a swing and a miss on my Rudolph joke.

play06:05

But this Buffalo market,

play06:07

wasn't the most shocking thing I saw that day.

play06:11

(low tempo music)

play06:17

- (Andre) Let's introduce ourselves

play06:20

- Hi.

play06:21

- Nice to meet you, I'm Mike.

play06:22

- Mulish

play06:23

- [Mike] So who are we going to meet today?

play06:26

The husband or the wife?

play06:28

- Yeah, both.

play06:29

- [Mike] Here in Tana Toraja

play06:30

the dead are still very much part of the family.

play06:35

They have not yet had the funeral and therefore both her and

play06:39

her husband's spirits are still inside this home.

play06:43

They are called Tamakula, which means sick.

play06:47

And they are treated that way.

play06:49

How long ago did they pass away?

play06:51

- Wife... already five years.

play06:54

And the husband, he just died three weeks ago.

play06:58

- Three weeks? he's three weeks?

play07:00

- [Mike] Twice a day the family brings them

play07:02

their favorite things, food, water,

play07:04

cigarettes, and play their favorite music.

play07:07

They also speak to them. They ask them questions.

play07:10

They say the Tamakula respond in their dreams.

play07:14

The couple will stay this way until the family have saved up

play07:18

enough money for their lavish funeral.

play07:20

This sometimes means living for a decade with a dead body in

play07:24

your house, or in this case two.

play07:27

The funeral for this couple is a few

play07:29

weeks away. It will be a big thing for the family,

play07:32

but we've been invited to visit another one tomorrow.

play07:35

One that will last four days.

play07:38

We had to bet that'll be a big day.

play07:47

- We're a little bit early, which is great.

play07:49

- [Kids] Hello? Hello.

play07:51

- Hello

play07:52

- [Girl] Hello

play07:53

- [Mike] Good morning.

play07:54

- Good morning

play07:56

- Nama kamu?

play07:58

- Angela

play07:59

- [Mike] Angela!

play08:01

(giggles)

play08:05

(crowd chatter)

play08:13

- [Mike] So how today's going to go down is at some point,

play08:17

maybe about an hour or so,

play08:18

the deceased is going to come out of the house.

play08:23

- [Kids] Hello

play08:24

- (Mike laughs)

play08:24

The kids are super friendly.

play08:26

The deceased is going to be brought out of the house

play08:28

and they're going to be shaken to awaken them

play08:30

and ready them for their journey into the afterlife.

play08:33

Guests are going to arrive and the family is going to bring

play08:35

them gifts. All of these little Cobania style,

play08:38

things are only built for this particular funeral.

play08:41

They'll get taken down after us. It's almost all temporary.

play08:43

The giant canoe houses are always here,

play08:45

it's a traditional village, but a lot of work,

play08:47

a ton of work has been done today. That's about all I know.

play08:51

I, this is my first one,

play08:52

I only know a little bit more than you guys.

play08:54

I've talked to my guide a little bit,

play08:55

I don't know what to expect, but what I do know is this,

play08:58

today it's going to be a day I remember

play09:00

the rest of my life,

play09:00

I'm going to see things that shock me,

play09:02

I'm going to see things that are going to make me

play09:03

uncomfortable.

play09:04

And that is the point of travel is to swallow that jagged

play09:07

pill and learn and experience

play09:11

and become a better, more open-minded person.

play09:14

That is my job. That is the goal today.

play09:16

And I hope you guys share the same attitude because I

play09:19

guarantee a few of you are going to be shocked

play09:21

(Pig oinking)

play09:24

- [Mike] and with a scream and a gong, the funeral begins

play09:28

(gong sound)

play09:31

Days ago, roosters were the first to join

play09:34

the spirit entourage. Next.

play09:36

It was the pigs sacrificed in the square.

play09:40

Their spirits sent to feed the decease and their body sent

play09:44

to feed us.

play09:45

This causes sadness.

play09:46

(people crying)

play09:47

The sick are officially about to die Tamakula to Tomatay.

play09:53

It is the moment for the family, to truly grieve.

play09:57

The black cloth surrounding this coffin,

play10:00

means that it contains a woman and she had been widowed

play10:03

Next, The Tamakula the sick is shaken and

play10:06

spun to waken her up from her sleep.

play10:09

After all, she's about to embark on the greatest journey

play10:14

of her lifetime.

play10:15

The one to pull yet, but their loved one won't be alone

play10:19

in this journey.

play10:20

The spirits of the roosters and pigs are already waiting.

play10:23

Now, all they need is their protection,

play10:26

a herd of special Buffalo bread for a special reason,

play10:31

their life's purpose to guard against the demons and dangers

play10:35

of the underworld emitting light in all directions,

play10:39

plowing through the smoke, the fog, the darkness to Puya

play10:43

so the soul may finally rest.

play10:47

Right! So the time has come for the Water Buffalo

play10:52

sacrifice today.

play10:53

And it's going to mark....

play10:55

I tripped. I didn't think it was going to be so sudden.

play10:59

I wasn't ready for what I saw.

play11:01

These are the first two Buffalo of 24 that will be

play11:05

sacrificed over the coming week.

play11:09

Is this animal cruelty? Or does it just feel more cruel

play11:14

when we see it?

play11:15

Is it better when it's tucked away behind the stainless

play11:18

steel doors of a factory buried away like the guilt of what

play11:22

eating meat actually means?

play11:25

These Buffalo will be every piece in this elaborate death

play11:30

feast.

play11:32

(music playing)

play11:37

Listen, I know you guys can handle this,

play11:40

but I've learned YouTube can't.

play11:42

I've had to put all the uncut versions of these experiences

play11:46

on Patreon or else they could take them down.

play11:49

If you'd like to support the channel and see parts of the

play11:52

funeral that I couldn't put here, check out the link.

play11:56

Now let's continue.

play11:59

- With that act

play12:03

begins the journey of the guest of honor,

play12:08

the woman into the afterlife, Puya the souls of those two

play12:12

Buffalo will guide her, will protect her in her journey.

play12:17

And though extremely hard to watch.

play12:21

I'm gonna remember that site for a long time.

play12:23

It is part of the tradition here and a very important part

play12:27

of the death process here.

play12:31

So...

play12:34

yeah.

play12:37

The funeral will last for the next four days with feasting

play12:40

and celebration.

play12:42

After her body will be placed in a cliff grave with her

play12:45

ancestors. We had seen these everywhere into RIAA.

play12:50

The dead are not only put in cliffs,

play12:52

but also in caves and even trees with today's celebration

play12:57

ending, Andre takes me away to see some of these graves

play13:00

nearby.

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(soft music)

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- [Mark] Everywhere, look.

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There's bones everywhere.

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These wooden effigies are called tau tau,

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and they depict someone who was put to rest in this cave,

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depictions of the deceased.

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This is a luxury for royalty.

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This place is like a hall of fame.

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generations upon generations,

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grandfathers upon the bones of fathers upon the bones of

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sons. Does it bring you comfort or discomfort?

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Thinking about your bones,

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being mixed and piled with your great grandfathers and

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strewn about a cave.

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For myself, I don't even know my great grandfather's name.

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Let alone where he was buried.

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But part of him is me.

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We visit other locations. They're everywhere here,

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hanging graves.

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Most of which have fallen and shattered the wood rotten

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after centuries on a cliff side, baby graves as well,

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toothless children are buried in trees.

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The youngest of the young,

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the ones were lost before they could even try.

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A hole is carved with a machete,

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then patched with a palm.

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They believe the SAP of the tree replaces the milk of the

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mother, nourishing the baby to grow, fusing it,

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body and spirit with the tree,

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giving the child a second at life.

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Nearby there are stone graves carved in to boulders

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in a seemingly impossible way.

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These caves protect the deceased, preserving them for the

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Ma'nene, the giant family reunions

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where the living and dead come together again to pay respect

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to the ancestors.

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This is what we call them, the west

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the walking dead festival,

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where the bodies are exhumed and cleaned by the family.

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And that's where we've been invited for tomorrow.

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- [Mark] We've arrived?

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- Yeah we've arrived.

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- [Mark] This is it?

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(gong sound)

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(people laughing)

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- [Mr Otto] Your name?

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- [Mike] Mike.

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- Mike, Mr Otto

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- Mr Otto?

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- Yes!

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- Nice to meet you Mr Otto.

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Can you speak Indonesian? No?

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- No.

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I can say (speak Indonesian)

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- (speaks Indonesian)

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- I can say Makenenuk

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(laughter)

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- Come from?

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- [Mike] I come from Canada.

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- Canada? okay

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- Yeah, you come from?

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- Toraja.

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(Laughter)

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- Good.

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- In here is your.....

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- Here my father.

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Your father is in this one here.

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- My father, my mother and my uncle, sister-in law here.

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- Wow.

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- Jen is three years till now. Yes the last one.

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- [Mike] And is your family, how does the family feel?

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Are they happy? Excited?

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- Of course we are very happy,

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excited, to meet the ancestors. Our ancestors

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- Grands father and grands mother

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- Up there, upstairs is our ancestors.

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- [Mike] Should we climb here? Dressed for success.

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With the bare feet and the suit.

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- (speaking Indonesian)

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Hati hati mean to watch out. cos Look we are literally

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on the edge of this cliff of the bamboo forest

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so Jenny's hand is trembling as she hold on to my arm.

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I'll be okay. I'll be okay I promise.

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- Hati hati

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- Hati hati. whoa

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(laughter)

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(speaking Indonesian)

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- Look at this

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Balls, rice, hats, old hanging coffins,

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skulls.

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Welcome to the land of the dead.

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These are hundreds of years old and they used to be hang on

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the cliffs for over the years,

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the wood deteriorates decomposes and the coffins fall here.

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You can see a lot of things in the ground,

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including it looks like skull of a child,

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Roasted pork, Betel Nut,

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and tobacco are given to the dead to rise them from

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their slumber, their 30 year rest.

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Yeah.

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- (Speaks Indonesian)

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- You need a torch?

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I should be okay. I have a flashlight on my phone.

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There's a hundred graves inside a hundreds of coffins

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I can go in?

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Oh my God. So I am now crawling inside a cave

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with about a hundred dead bodies, a hundred coffins.

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- (speaks Indonesian)

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This is one of the family graves for all the ones are Johnny

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and a hundred.

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Oh wow. It goes back right?

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And these are, these are quite wet.

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The coffins are quite wet, right?

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Even some of them you can see there's mushrooms going on.

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So part of the Ma'nene will be taking them on

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and drying them.

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- Yeah

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- Ants, once that bite and sting...

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The spirits aren't the only ones who have called

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this place home,

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but this is why Ma'nene exists to care for the family,

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Even after death.

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No name, no date.

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Almost fully decomposed.

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I would guess a hundred years or something.

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Okay. You look over there.

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You can see the entrance to the cave grave.

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And now the coffins being taken at one by one to dry in the

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sun. Some of these are ancient.

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They were saying this coffins that are 200 years old and

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here in this particular cave grave, this one right here,

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we don't know his or her story that she's been here or he's

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in here for such a long time that basically his bones and

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dirt now, but it is wild to see this sort of thing

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up so close.

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It is incredibly humid in here, but it doesn't really smell.

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Really. It smells more like an old basement.

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You can smell like a little bit of dirt,

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but for having 100 more than 100, 200 dead bodies in here,

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it smells like a rice house. Like a cave.

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You can feel the humidity, especially on the cloth.

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It's very, very damp in here.

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No surprises. There's some heavy energy in there.

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So since this grave is hundreds and hundreds of years old,

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and there's hundreds of bodies in there,

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we are moving some of these down to a proper grave,

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fifth grade and they're carved out.

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It's also an ant problem, and it's going to be sad.

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(chatter)

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(speaks Indonesian)

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(gong sound)

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- (Speaks Indonesian)

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- Then the family crowds in eager to get photos of their

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loved ones once again.

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- (Speaking Indonesian)

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With a few laughs.

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They try and put their great grandfather back together.

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Your father, yes?

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This is a day of joy for the family.

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I try to keep smiling, but sometimes it's tough.

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When they opened this coffin here,

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one of the ladies came over to me and grabbed me by the arm

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and pulled me closer and said, this is my father.

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And she had a huge smile on her face.

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And she wanted me to capture the moment on film because she

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has not seen her father since he passed away

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so long ago that summarizes the feelings here at the Ma'nene

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today, happiness, joy, and the reunion of family members.

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You haven't seen in a very long time.

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I travel to collect pieces for a lens.

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One to see this world through these pieces are beliefs,

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views, and experiences,

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ways to live life and ways to view death whose view on death

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is right, whose is wrong.

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Is this strange, weird, gross?

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What do these words even mean?

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But a shallow reflection of our inability to see beyond our

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own beliefs, our lens,

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I had to break my own lens and pick up a mosaic of pieces

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from different places to see where I fit in this world.

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Death doesn't have to be something we hide from.

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It can be embraced, accepted, and celebrated.

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There are ways to fill our hearts with love.

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When all we feel is pain.

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These are the answers that I found in Tana Toraja.

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The land of the dead.

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- Death is the most.

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It's a very gloomy contemplation like manure,

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just as manure, fertilizes the plants and so on.

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So the contemplation of death and the acceptance of death is

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very highly generative of creative life.

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You'll get wonderful things out of that.

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Related Tags
Cultural RitualsDeath PracticesTana TorajaSpiritual JourneyFuneral TraditionsAnimal SacrificeIndonesian CultureAfterlife BeliefsMa'nene FestivalHuman ExperienceTravel Documentary