India: How our clothes cause water pollution

Summary

The script explores the environmental and social impact of the textile industry in Tirupur, India, a major exporter of cotton textiles. Once a farming community, it transformed into an industrial hub, leading to severe pollution of the Noyyal River with toxic chemicals. Despite court mandates for wastewater treatment, illegal dumping persists. Activists argue that global brands should share the burden of environmental cleanup, highlighting the ethical dilemma of outsourcing pollution to developing countries.

Takeaways

• 🌿 Tirupur, a city in southern India, is a major global textile production hub, supplying up to 90% of India's cotton textile exports and over half of its knitwear exports.
• 👚 Western corporations like GAP, H&M, and Victoria's Secret source their clothing from Tirupur, contributing to the city's growth and environmental impact.
• 🏭 The textile industry in Tirupur is characterized by a cluster of around a thousand small to mid-sized independent garment factories, along with dyeing, bleaching, and embroidery units.
• 💧 The Noyyal River, once considered sacred, has become a dumping ground for toxic waste, with high levels of carcinogenic metals due to the textile industry's pollution.
• 🚰 The pollution of the Noyyal River has severe consequences for local agriculture, affecting the soil fertility, livestock, and groundwater resources, leading to a decline in farmers' incomes.
• 🏛️ In response to the environmental crisis, the state High Court mandated all manufacturers to set up wastewater treatment plants, which has led to some improvements.
• 🛑 Despite the court's mandate, illegal disposal of chemical waste continues, with some manufacturers unable to afford proper treatment facilities.
• 🌐 Activists argue that developed countries are outsourcing their pollution by sourcing from places like Tirupur, avoiding environmental regulations at home.
• 💼 The financial burden of cleaning up pollution largely falls on small-scale manufacturers, leading to reduced profit margins and some moving out of Tirupur.
• 🌊 Efforts to treat wastewater have been somewhat successful, with over a billion liters treated daily, but the Noyyal River's health remains a concern.
• 🤔 The script raises questions about the responsibility of corporations, the role of the state in regulation, and the need for a collective effort to prevent environmental degradation.

Q & A

What is the primary cause of the Noyyal river's pollution?

The Noyyal river's pollution is primarily caused by the textile industry in Tirupur, which uses toxic chemicals in its dyeing and bleaching processes that are then drained into the river.

What percentage of India's cotton textile exports originate from Tirupur?

Up to 90 percent of India's cotton textile exports originate from Tirupur.

What is the economic impact of the textile industry in Tirupur?

The textile industry in Tirupur brings in revenue of 250 billion rupees or almost 3 billion euros a year and employs more than 1.5 million people directly and indirectly.

What was the state High Court's response to the pollution of the Noyyal river?

In 2011, the state High Court mandated all manufacturers to set up wastewater treatment plants to address the pollution issue.

How has the pollution affected the local farmers and agricultural communities?

The pollution has led to a loss of fertility in the soil, a loss of cattle, and a depletion of groundwater resources, which has ultimately decreased the income of the farmers and agricultural communities.

What are the consequences of the pollution on the Noyyal river's ecosystem?

The pollution has resulted in the river being filled with household and plastic waste, as well as high levels of carcinogenic metals, which have long-term effects on the land, local people, and livestock.

What measures have been taken to treat the wastewater from Tirupur's textile industry?

More than a hundred treatment plants have been established, some in individual factories and others as common treatment plants that treat wastewater from several small-scale facilities.

How has the court order affected the number of dyeing units in Tirupur?

The number of dyeing units in Tirupur has declined from over 700 at its peak to around 400 due to the financial burden of setting up wastewater treatment plants and the need to stay competitive.

What is the current state of the Noyyal river near its source?

The Noyyal river near its source, inside a protected forest, is still clear and fresh, contrasting greatly with its polluted state downstream.

What are the implications of the pollution for the future of the Noyyal river and its stakeholders?

The pollution raises questions about the responsibility of corporations sourcing products from the area, the need for more vigilance from the state, and the inconsistency of legal requirements across the country.

How does the script suggest individuals can contribute to addressing the pollution issue?

The script implies that individuals have a collective responsibility to ensure that their consumption habits, such as buying clothes, do not contribute to environmental destruction and that they should consider the impact of their choices.

Outlines

00:00

🌿 Environmental Impact of Textile Industry in Tirupur

The video script begins by highlighting the environmental degradation in Tirupur, India, a major hub for cotton textile exports. Once a farmland, the area has transformed into an industrial cluster, with pollution from textile factories severely affecting the Noyyal River. The river, once sacred and vital for the region, is now filled with toxic chemicals and waste from the factories, impacting the health of the local population and the environment. The script introduces the global brands sourcing from Tirupur and the economic benefits of the textile industry, juxtaposed against the environmental costs. Activists and factory owners share their perspectives on the situation, including the implementation of wastewater treatment plants following a court mandate, and the ongoing challenges of illegal waste disposal.

05:05

💧 The Ripple Effect of Pollution on Agriculture and Communities

This paragraph delves into the broader implications of environmental pollution caused by the textile industry on the local agricultural communities. It discusses how the pollution from Tirupur's factories has led to a loss of soil fertility, livestock, and groundwater resources, resulting in decreased income and livelihoods for farmers. The script describes the severe pollution at the Orathuppalayam Dam, where fish deaths were reported, and the current state of the dam, blanketed by water hyacinth plants indicating heavy metal pollution. The narrative follows a farmer's transition from subsistence farming to reliance on the coconut oil industry due to contaminated soil, reflecting the economic and environmental shifts in the region.

10:06

🚰 Seeking Solutions for Sustainable Development and Environmental Protection

The final paragraph of the script explores the potential solutions and responsibilities in addressing the environmental crisis in Tirupur. It questions the role of corporations sourcing from the area, the state's vigilance, and the uneven application of legal requirements across the country. The script contrasts the pristine source of the Noyyal River with its polluted state downstream, highlighting the need for collective action to prevent further environmental damage. It ends with a call to action for viewers to consider their responsibility in the cycle of consumption and production, and to engage in discussions about sustainable practices and pollution prevention.

Keywords

💡Dumping ground

A dumping ground refers to a place where waste materials are discarded without proper treatment or disposal. In the context of the video, Noyyal has become a dumping ground for waste waters, indicating the river's pollution due to industrial activities, as evidenced by the script's line, 'Noyyal has become a dumping ground for all waste waters.'

💡Textile industry

The textile industry encompasses the production of fiber, yarn, fabrics, and garments, and includes processes like dyeing and bleaching. The video highlights Tirupur's textile industry as a major contributor to pollution, with the script mentioning, 'The textile industry here is what is called a cluster.'

💡Cotton textiles

Cotton textiles are fabrics made from cotton fiber, widely used in the clothing industry. The script notes that Tirupur is responsible for up to 90 percent of India's cotton textile exports, emphasizing the scale of the industry's impact on the environment.

💡Knitwear

Knitwear refers to garments made from knitted fabric, which is produced using a knitting process. The video script mentions that more than half of India's knitwear exports originate from Tirupur, indicating another significant sector contributing to the local economy and pollution.

💡Global retailers

Global retailers are large-scale businesses that sell goods to consumers worldwide. The script points out that these retailers source clothes from Tirupur, which are often associated with major American and European brands, thus linking the local pollution to international consumerism.

💡Pollution

Pollution refers to the presence in or introduction into the environment of substances or things that cause harm or discomfort. The video's theme revolves around the pollution of the Noyyal river due to textile industry waste, as illustrated by the line, 'Toxic chemicals are being used and these are being drained into the river.'

💡Carcogenic metals

Carcogenic metals are metallic elements that can cause cancer. The script mentions a study finding high levels of such metals like copper, zinc, and lead in the Noyyal river, indicating the severity of environmental contamination.

💡Wastewater treatment plants

Wastewater treatment plants are facilities designed to remove contaminants from wastewater. The video discusses the state High Court's mandate for manufacturers to establish such plants, as stated in, 'In 2011, the state High Court stepped in, mandating all manufacturers, to set up wastewater treatment plants.'

💡Industrial cluster

An industrial cluster refers to a geographic concentration of interconnected businesses, suppliers, and associated institutions in a particular field. The script describes Tirupur's textile industry as a cluster, which has contributed to the pollution of the Noyyal river.

💡Environmental impact

Environmental impact refers to any effect that human activities have on the environment. The video script discusses the negative environmental impact of the textile industry in Tirupur, particularly on the Noyyal river and the livelihood of the local population.

💡Sustainability

Sustainability in the context of the video refers to the need for long-term environmental, economic, and social responsibility in production processes. The script raises questions about the sustainability of the textile industry, as it causes pollution and long-term damage to the environment and local communities.

Highlights

Noyyal river has become a dumping ground for waste waters due to the textile industry.

Tirupur, a city in southern India, is a major hub for cotton textile and knitwear exports, supplying major Western brands.

The city's transformation from farmland to an industrial textile cluster has led to severe environmental pollution.

Kumar Duraiswamy discusses the city's growth and the employment it provides, highlighting the need for industries in densely populated countries.

The textile industry in Tirupur is a cluster of over a thousand small to mid-sized factories contributing billions to the economy.

Pollution from the textile industry has turned the once-sacred Noyyal river into a toxic drain.

A 2020 study revealed high levels of carcinogenic metals in the river, posing long-term risks to the environment and health.

The state High Court mandated manufacturers to set up wastewater treatment plants in response to the pollution crisis.

Activists argue that the burden of pollution cleanup should not fall solely on small manufacturers.

Developed countries are accused of outsourcing pollution by sourcing from countries with lax environmental regulations.

The environmental impact has severely affected farmers, leading to loss of fertility, livestock, and groundwater resources.

Orathuppalayam Dam has been polluted for decades, with reports of massive fish deaths due to heavy metal contamination.

Farmers describe the drastic changes in the river and the loss of traditional crops due to contaminated water.

The establishment of treatment plants has led to a decrease in the number of dyeing units and financial impact on the district.

Despite efforts, the Noyyal river's original form in the protected forest remains pristine, contrasting with its polluted sections.

The question of corporate responsibility and the need for collective action to prevent environmental destruction is raised.

Transcripts

“Noyyal has become a dumping ground for all waste waters.”

“As long as humans are interested in wearing clothes this business will exist.”

“I love to go shopping.”

“How did our desire to be fashionable turn this once-sleepy town and its sacred

river into a toxic environmental nightmare?!”

If you’ve ever worn GAP or H&M

or Victoria’s Secret with a 'Made in India' label

- this is probably where it came from.”

Tirupur, on the banks of the river Noyyal, is a city in southern India. Up to 90 percent

of the country's cotton textiles exports, and more than half its knitwear exports originate here.

The global retailers that source clothes here are usually large Western corporations.

“Yup, it’s all the major American and European brands.”

But Tirupur is now also famous for the state of its river.

"This is not a river, it’s a drain. These reviews are bang on. This once-sacred river

smells so bad and is so full of chemicals that it's frothing!”

So how did things turn out like this?

Just a few decades ago, Tirupur was almost entirely farmland, growing - primarily - cotton.

So when small textiles factories began to set up here in the late 1970s, farmers

gave up their livelihood and joined the trend.

Like Kumar Duraiswamy, who runs a garment factory in south Tirupur and has seen the

city transformed.

"The small village now has turned into a city, district headquarters.

We are employing more than 1.5 million people - directly and indirectly.

Any country like India, with a dense population - we really need industries."

The textile industry here is what is called a cluster. Around a thousand small to mid-sized

independent garment factories, like Duraiswamy’s, exist alongside dyeing, bleaching

and embroidery units. Together, they bring in revenue of 250 billion rupees or almost 3 billion euros a year.

Industrial-scale textile parks have been set up, but it’s the small to mid-size facilities that make up the majority.

"When I started, yes, not only myself none of us knew that there would be so much impact

as far as the pollution is concerned. At one stage we got to know that we are spoiling the environment.

Toxic chemicals are being used and these are being drained into the river.

Noyyal is a 180 kilometers in length, and has long been considered sacred, as it nourishes the region,

and sustains at least two million people - before draining into the famous River Kaveri.

As the Noyyal flows through the growing cities though,

it gets choked with household and plastic waste.

But the most harmful pollutants enter the river near the industrial cluster.

A 2020 study found high levels of copper, zinc, lead and other carcinogenic metals in

the water that could leave long-term effects  on the land, local people and livestock.

"This is the water that goes to people’s fields. People use it for drinking, for bathing.

Yeah...it’s not clean.”

In 2011, the state High Court stepped in, mandating all manufacturers

to set up wastewater treatment plants.

Most have complied.

But activists say many manufacturers who can't afford to clean up their chemical waste continue to dispose of it illegally.

Sometimes under the cover of darkness, or in areas that are too remote for constant monitoring.

Prithiviraj Sinnathambi was one of the activists who convinced the court to take action.

But he says the burden of cleaning up this waste can't only fall on the little guys.

"This dyeing and bleaching doesn’t exist in

developed countries, because they don’t

want to pollute their water. If somebody raises the issues of pollution in Europe or in North America,

suddenly there will be a knee jerk reaction from the corporations.

Then they'll say no, we are not sourcing from here, we'll source from Bangladesh - as if everything

is fine there. Or they'll say we'll source it from Vietnam, or we'll source it from China.

That attitude is not ethical."

He says that developed countries are outsourcing their pollution -

and the social consequences of this extend well beyond this city.

"Brunt of the impact of the environmental pollution has been faced by the farmers and the agricultural communities.

Basically, they lost their fertility of their soil, they lost their cattle

they lost their groundwater resources. Ultimately their income has gone down.

Within a few years they lost everything."

Downriver, near one of the two dams on the Noyyal, is where the impact of this is most severe.

I paid a visit to Orathuppalayam Dam,  which has been polluted for decades.

“There’s a report of over 800,000 fish dying here in just a single day.”

That was over 15 years ago when the floodgates were opened.

But even today, the water is polluted. The reservoir is blanketed in water hyacinth plants -

indicators of heavy metal pollution.

They also choke the entire river system below.

Three farmers, who were on their morning walk on the dam, approached me and began describing

what had happened to the river they'd grown up beside.

“When I was 17 or so, this was the water we used to drink. But it's been dirty for 30 to 35 years now.”

“They say many people have jobs on the other side, but how good is that if the the water is contaminated?

It’s like selling your eyes and buying a movie."

One of the farmers, Devaraj, invited us back to his home. He used to live as a subsistence farmer.

But over the past 20 years, things have changed dramatically here.

"Back then there was cotton, rice, sugarcane, corn.

Now the ground is so contaminated by the water that we don't have those crops anymore.

Now we don’t grow anything. Just coconuts."

He says though that the yield of his coconut trees has dropped by at least 30 percent,

because of the water. So now he imports coconuts from other Indian states, and hires labourers

to break and dry them before he sells the parts - mainly to the coconut oil industry.

"It started when coconut oil became fashionable in markets around the world.

But no matter how much business we do, we need water. I have money for everything I need now.

But is that enough? And what will it be like in the future, for our children?

It’s only getting worse."

Since the court order, more than a hundred treatment plants have been established. Some are in individual factories.

Others are common treatment plants, which treat wastewater from several

small-scale facilities. More than one billion litres of water are treated here every day.

The government subsidises a large part of the operating costs. I visited a common treatment plant,

where 18 small dying units send their wastewater for treatment.

“I can’t believe this used to go straight into the river at some point.”

The small dyeing operations do have to pay a part of the treatment fee - and they still

need to stay competitive. Many have seen a steep drop in their profit margins - sometimes down by 15 percent.

So many of the facilities have moved out of Tirupur -

either to other states, or even just beyond the district border, where the

court's rule doesn't apply. The number of dyeing units in Tirupur has declined from over

700 at peak to around 400 at the moment. The district has taken a financial hit,

even as the Noyyal river has become somewhat cleaner.

“I’m going up to the source of the river which is inside a protected forest to see

what this river looks like in its original form.”

Just a 50-minute drive from the eastern-most city on the river, the landscape is completely different.

“I can't believe it's the same river, it's so clear - I’m going to drink it!

Oh, that’s fresh.”

I wondered about the future of this river - and the many stakeholders involved.

Shouldn't corporations that source their products from the area bear

a greater share of the financial burden?

Could the state be more vigilant?

And why don't legal requirements apply across the entire country?

“The river downstream could one day become some version of this.

But with the burden falling on a small number of people in a long chain

is this is going to become a case where history repeats itself, on another river, and in another place?”

And this is already happening.

Industrial hubs are being set up across South India inviting more small business to develop small towns.

“So do I want new clothes? Yes!

But after seeing what my clothes are doing to this river and all the systems it supports

I wonder if's not mine, and our collective responsibility

to make sure that this doesn’t result in the destruction of all of this?”

What do you think can and should be done against pollution like this?

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