Single-post Hero Hoist. 1.8m lift. 2500kg. Fully portable! | Auto Expert John Cadogan

Auto Expert John Cadogan
27 Jan 202429:59

Summary

TLDRThe video follows an auto expert demonstrating how to prevent getting stranded with a flat tire on the roadside using a portable car hoist. He highlights issues like stuck wheels and unsafe jacking. After assembling and operating the hoist, he lifts a car, removes the wheels, and buffs the wheel bosses and axle flanges to prevent future sticking. He reattaches the wheels properly torquing the lug nuts and emphasizes following the star pattern sequence. He notes the hoist's versatility for home, shop, racing, and farm use. While admitting he doesn't truly need it, he states it greatly improves convenience and slashes job times.

Takeaways

  • πŸ˜€ The video provides tips on how to prevent getting stranded when your car breaks down, and reviews a portable car hoist product.
  • πŸ‘·β€β™‚οΈ A portable car hoist from Hero Hoists is showcased - it can lift 2.5 tons, has pallet jack mobility, and is easy to assemble.
  • πŸ”§ Getting a wheel off when stuck to the axle flange is a common problem - hitting the rim with a hammer on a hoist usually fixes it.
  • ⛽️ More alloy wheels on cars now increase the corrosion issue causing stuck wheels - long service intervals also contribute.
  • 😑 Factory jacks are flimsy and unstable for getting a stuck wheel off - unsafe to get under the car when lifted only by factory jack.
  • πŸ›  Pre-emptive action recommended - loosen wheels periodically to avoid getting stuck.
  • πŸ‘ The featured portable hoist allows wheels to be safely removed anywhere - very versatile piece of equipment.
  • ⚠️ Take care when first using the hoist - approach car slowly, position lifting pads correctly.
  • πŸ”§ The hoist is excellent for common jobs like brakes, dampers, wheel swaps - saves time vs floor jacks.
  • πŸ‘ Overall the portable hoist greatly improves convenience and reduces time for lifting tasks.

Q & A

  • What is the main purpose of the video?

    -The main purpose is to provide tips on how to prevent getting stranded with a flat tire in a remote area, while also demonstrating a portable car hoist product.

  • What causes wheels to get stuck on vehicles?

    -Corrosion between the steel wheel hub and aluminum alloy wheels is a major cause. Long service intervals also allow more corrosion over time.

  • How can you test if a wheel stud has been over-torqued?

    -Manually run the lug nuts all the way up and down the studs with the wheels off. If a stud has been over-torqued, a nut will not run smoothly all the way up the threads.

  • What safety precautions should be taken when using a portable hoist?

    -Approach the vehicle slowly to avoid momentum crashing the hoist into the car. Carefully position lifting pads under manufacturer lift points. Test lift stability before raising fully.

  • What is the proper lug nut tightening sequence?

    -Tighten in a star or cross pattern, going around at least twice, to prevent warping brake rotors. For 5 lugs: 1, 3, 5, 2, 4. For 6 lugs: 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6.

  • Why lubricate wheel studs when reinstalling wheels?

    -A small amount of lubrication allows reduced torque application by around 30% while still ensuring proper wheel clamping force.

  • What should you check when a car is lifted on a hoist?

    -Inspect for leaks, damage, worn parts, etc. Catching problems early before failure is critical for safety.

  • How can you convert kilogram-meters to newton-meters for torque specs?

    -Multiply the kg-m value by 9.81. For simplicity, approximating by multiplying by 10 is typically sufficient.

  • What is the main benefit of a portable hoist over floor jacks and stands?

    -Much faster and convenient for jobs requiring wheel removal or undercarriage access. No crawling around on floor.

  • What practical uses does the hoist have beyond lifting vehicles?

    -Could assist with trailer/equipment repair, use as a height adjustable welding table, increase shop productivity when hoist space is limited.

Outlines

00:00

πŸ˜€ Intro About Car Breakdowns & Mobile Hoist Demo

The intro paragraph introduces the video as a PSA about getting stranded with a car breakdown, and a product demo of a portable car hoist which will help show how to prevent getting stranded. The host is a car expert from a deals website.

05:01

πŸ˜– Factory Car Jacks are Flimsy, Wheels Get Stuck

Paragraph 2 explains that factory car jacks are flimsy and unstable. This makes it unsafe to get under the car if using the jack to change a tire. Also, alloy wheels can get stuck to brake discs due to corrosion over time from road use and moisture, which the host says happens frequently.

10:02

πŸ›  Assembling the Portable Car Hoist

Paragraph 3 details the process of assembling the portable car hoist product being demonstrated. The host assembled it solo over 1 day, using tools like socket sets and a hydraulic crane. He highlights the need for an 14mm hex socket to tighten certain bolts, which many toolsets may lack.

15:04

⚠️ Safety Tips for Operating the Hoist

Paragraph 4 covers key safety advice when first using the hoist, like approaching the car slowly due to the hoist's heavyweight and momentum. The host also advises gently lifting the car a few inches first to check stability before going higher.

20:06

πŸ˜€ Lubricating Wheel Nuts for Smooth Operation

Paragraph 5 shares the host's method of lubricating wheel nuts with anti-seize grease when removing wheels, to prevent them getting stuck from corrosion. He argues this is safe engineering practice, despite some owner's manuals advising not to lubricate wheel nuts.

25:06

πŸ”§ Step-by-Step Wheel Removal Process

Paragraph 6 provides a detailed walkthrough of the wheel removal process using the hoist, including loosening nuts, removing wheels, cleaning hub and wheel mating surfaces, and proper tightening technique to avoid warping brake discs.

Mindmap

Keywords

πŸ’‘Wheel stuck on car

This refers to when the wheel rim gets corroded and stuck onto the axle hub, making it very difficult to remove the wheel. This happens especially with alloy wheels, and is a common problem that the video aims to address. The narrator explains causes for it, like long service intervals leading to corrosion, and shows how to prevent and fix it.

πŸ’‘Factory car jack

The basic car jack that comes with most cars from the manufacturer. The narrator points out that these are often low quality and unstable, making them unsafe to use for things like freeing a stuck wheel.

πŸ’‘Torque wrench

A tool used to tighten wheel nuts and bolts to a precise torque specification. Proper tightening with a torque wrench prevents parts from loosening over time. The narrator explains the importance of using one correctly when reinstalling wheels.

πŸ’‘Hoist

The main specialty automotive tool featured in the video - a portable lifting device that safely raises vehicles for access underneath. The narrator highlights benefits of using a hoist for jobs like freeing stuck wheels.

πŸ’‘WD40

A penetrating lubricant spray that can help free stuck parts. The narrator uses it with a scouring pad to clean corrosion off the wheel and axle hub to fix a stuck rim.

πŸ’‘Anti seize

A high temperature grease compound applied to threads and sliding surfaces to prevent seizure, galling, and corrosion. The narrator advocates using a thin coat on wheel mounting studs and hubs.

πŸ’‘Axle flange

The mounting hub at the end of a drive axle that the wheel bolts onto. Corrosion between this and the wheel rim is what causes them to stick together.

πŸ’‘Torque sequence

Tightening wheel nuts/bolts in a crossing star pattern sequence to evenly load the wheel. The narrator stresses doing this to prevent warping brake rotors when reinstalling wheels.

πŸ’‘Stud stretch

Small amounts of permanent elongation that occur in fasteners like wheel studs when torqued. This is normal but too much overtightening can overstretch studs.

πŸ’‘Disc thickness variation

Uneven wear and thickness between sections of a brake rotor. Caused by improper wheel installation. Following the proper torque sequence prevents it.

Highlights

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The research outcomes challenge existing paradigms, paving the way for future exploration.

Transcripts

play00:00

something a little different for you

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today part Public Service Announcement

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aimed at stopping you from getting

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properly stranded and or even worse

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injured at the roadside should you break

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down and also a test of one of the

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coolest fantasy man cave products I have

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ever used a single post 2 and 1/2 ton

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caner portable car hoist from hero

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hoists here in Sydney I do love this

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thing have to say the Hoist is going to

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help me show you how to prevent the

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whole soul crushing getting stranded

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thing but you can actually do this

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particular job with just a Jack and a

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stand the only thing there is of course

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it's going to take you quite a bit

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longer I'm jog from Auto expert.com new

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cars cheap as usual but obviously ster

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only website

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God okay so we'll get into the whole ho

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thing in just a sec but imagine you are

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driving along in the boonies with not a

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care in the world the banjo lessons are

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in full swing all around you can feel it

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in the air every time you drive through

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some quaint Outback Hamlet it's mullets

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and flannelette as far as the eye can

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see and that's just the cheeks

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unfortunately though you get a flat tire

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out in the middle of nowhere and out

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comes the Fairly shitty Factory Jack you

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crack the wheel nuts with the equally

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shitty Factory lug wrench the car

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reluctantly defies gravity and goes up

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the spare comes out provided you're not

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you know driving an electric

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car but you can't get the freaking wheel

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off dude because the rim is stuck to the

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boss on the end of the axle flange

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because corrosion is such an Insidious

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bastard especially since it got married

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to Murphy I do hate that and it happens

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all the time that's stuck wheel thing

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just ask anyone who works in a tire shop

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how you fix this in just a sec this

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this possible okay so you're in this

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situation the wheel is stuck on the car

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in the boonies the banjos are closing in

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it's a deleted scene from Deliverance

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2.0 this would be a comparatively easy

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fixed up on a hoist in a tire shop just

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get a block of wood and a hammer hit the

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inside of the rim and the job is done

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they do this all the time it's not so

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easy in the shadow of red bush Mountain

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though is it you're usually not carrying

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the right hammer and probably don't have

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a block of water either although you

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could certainly improvise that but the

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car is not going to be that stable

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because the factory Jack is always built

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down to the absolute flimsiest minimum

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shitty standard and the environment with

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a flat tire it's never going to be

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perfect is it you're not going to be on

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a bilard table right it's definitely not

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safe to get under the car when it is

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jacked up like that is my point and even

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if you pull to hard on the rim from the

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outside or kick it or hit it whatever

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the car could easily come off the

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world's most crap Jack this problem is

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even more common today than previously a

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because there are just more alloy wheels

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out there on the road today and of

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course aluminium and steel react

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corrosively like

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galvanically and B 12 month service

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intervals while they are Grand they also

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mean that it might be a year or

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something since the wheels last came off

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your car and that is a hell of a long

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time for an alloy wheel and a steel

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flange to get wet and hot together so to

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speak so it's preemptive action time

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dude and a good opportunity for me to

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showcase the new toy this is a single

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post 2 and 1/2 ton service hoist from

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hero hoists in Sydney it is completely

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portable in the context that you can

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roll it around basically anywhere on a

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flat surface here hoist also does two

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posters and four posters even tandem

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four posters even four posters that you

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can roll around on giant casters and

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four posters are of course fantastic if

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you've got sufficient Headroom in your

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shop you can park double the number of

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cars right you get a daily driver below

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with a race car or a project car

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upstairs and you haven't had to build

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any extra accommodation so that's kind

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of nice they also do scissor lifts and

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all kinds of cool stuff like that heroh

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hoists doom. this single poster is quite

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novel to me however it's kind of like if

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a pallet jack and the Terminator had a

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baby it'll lift from about 100 above the

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deck to 7060 so it is the full walk

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underneath hoist deal it's Candle leave

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certainly but today I'm only going about

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sternum height because that's just the

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best working height for this particular

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job and you can roll this hoist around

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anywhere right with pallet jack like

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Mobility I'll put links in the

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description it's hero hoists all one

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word.com auu these things are deployed

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all around the world too you see them in

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America and Europe they're very safe and

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they carry Australian German TUV and

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Euro

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certification and don't worry dude

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you're not getting your life on the

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Integrity of some 25 cent nital rubber

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O-ring like all other

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hoist there's an automatic mechanical

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Locking System kind of like a ratchet if

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there's a hydraulic failure you don't

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end up squashed in other words because

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that's not much fun this is why they've

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got three control buttons right green

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for up pretty obviously blue for down

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and black for please lower me onto the

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closest safety stuff so when you hit

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blue an electromagnet pulls the safety

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stops out of the way allowing you to

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lower the Hoist and this means it's fail

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safed right if anything fails the stops

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are already in place so you don't get

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squashed if an O-ring fails you don't

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get squashed if a hose bursts you don't

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get squashed if the power fails you

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don't get

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squashed I guess if there's earthquake

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or a nuclear strike you probably do get

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squashed but at least you won't be alone

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when a hoist such as this arrives at

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your fat cave it is knocked down and

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flat packed in a steel frame they crane

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it off the truck so it's a proper men's

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meano assembly exercise all the critical

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components like the main column with the

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ram they come pre-assembled your mission

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therefore is to join the sub assemblies

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together

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these have been designed so that it's

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actually very hard to get wrong you'd

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have to be a proper idiot like a

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politician or the CEO of a major Lobby

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group to be quite that mechanically

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inept however there are some pretty

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hefty bits obviously the true blue Stan

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way to do this would be to invite the

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chaps over for a barbecue and eat I

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don't know a dead cow and get about 20

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long necks on board each stand around

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grunting in your stubbies and thongs

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until someone loses a toe again now

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because as a courtesy I would never

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actually be mates with anybody who would

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agree to have me as a mate #

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grouo I elected to fly solo on this

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whole big boys assembly exercise and

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this was I have to admit kind of fun as

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well as a challenge

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I did however reserve the dead cow and

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refreshments until after the project was

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complete I'm just absolutely no fun like

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that it took me about a day to get the

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whole thing together and I really relied

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heavily pun intended on my trusty what

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Curtis from Cutting Edge engineering Str

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would call duelers crane to a unbox and

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move the heavy bits around and B hold

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them in position while fixing them in

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place actually it's all very well

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thought out manufacturing quality pretty

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slick no complaints there it's got nice

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welding laser cut you get excellent

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alignment of the parts and you don't

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need any special tools if you've got a

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metric halfin Drive Socket Set standard

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wrenches screwdrivers Allen Keys pliers

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kind of thing you're more or less good

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to get cracking there's just one thing

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right there's about 24 M16 by two high

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tensile socket head cap screws that hold

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the column to the base and also join the

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lifting cradle to the runner inside the

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column and these need a 14 mm Allen key

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so I used a halfin drive 14 mm male hex

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driver for a socket set and a lot of

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people would not have one of those in

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their kit most Allen key sets for

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example run out at 10 mm some go to 12

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very few include 14 they are pretty easy

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to Source however there did not seem to

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be a torque spec for those Fasteners in

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the manual either but I used ajax's

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recommendation for M16 class 8.8 High

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tensile Fasteners which is 190 newm

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however I lubricated them on assembly so

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I fudged that down by 30% is to 130 new

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M which is the G Al accepted engineering

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torque reduction fudge factor for

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lubricated High tensile joint assembly

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and ultimately the Hoist has not

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collapsed underload so I suppose that's

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Vindication of A Sort you need to add

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your own hydraulic oil on assembly too

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at bleeding that system is dead easy

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although if you haven't done it before

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that might seem a bit confronting all

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you really do though is you just raise

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it and lower it a couple of times and

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essentially it does it itself I also

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added a bit of black conduit to keep the

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wiring to the limit switches Etc just a

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bit

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tidier you're also going to need an

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electrician to wire in the flex to the

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control panel and you will need a 15 amp

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singlephase GOP on the wall to plug it

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into and that probably means running a

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separate circuit to that switch but you

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can also use that outlet for a serious

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compress

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or a welder just not all three at the

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same time hero hoists is run by a dude

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named Rowan steel he's a good bloke

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knows the product and he's extremely

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helpful now I would argue that not

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everyone who might use a hoist should

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trust themselves to put one together and

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luckily Rowan offers an assembly and

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installation service across the whole

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range of his products so if that's all

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somewhat confronting to you the DIY bit

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is optional and there is certainly an

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alternative to DIY this you are going to

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have to be comfortable with lifting the

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heavy bits and not dropping them

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preferably also not crushing yourself

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you'll have to put the parts together so

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that they don't fall apart in use

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importantly this involves basic fitting

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plus assembling things like hydraulic

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fittings and wiring in limit switches

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Etc all reliably into the correct

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numbered terminals inside the master

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control panel like I said it took me

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about a day all up but I did measure

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twice and only cut once right if I had

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to do a second one I suppose it would

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all be over before lunchtime because the

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first one of anything is always such a

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voyage into the unknown right so once

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yours is operational a couple of things

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you really should bear in mind when you

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push one of these big things towards

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your car for the very first time

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remember that it weighs

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775 kilos it actually rolls very easily

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but it has considerable momentum so

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approach the car slowly would be my

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advice the better to stop the Hoist in

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time before it crashes into your car and

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then take your time getting the lifting

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pads in place this is especially

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important on unibody cars to get the

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center of the rubber pads in line with

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the lifting points on the car which is

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usually that dimpled section of the

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pinch panel under the seill whenever I

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put a car on a hoist any hoist anywhere

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anytime I raise it up about 3 in in the

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air and then I give it a good shove size

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side to side because you know if I'm

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going to be dropping it I want it to

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fall 3 in onto the floor and not 6 feet

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onto a person I'm kind of funny like

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that then if it seems solid at an

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altitude of 3 in I guess we're ready to

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fly the single poster comes with

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operating buttons on the column plus a

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wired in remote control which allows you

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to walk around and double check the

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clearances Etc

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as you lift which is a pretty handy

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feature the Hoist comes with standard

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screw up lifting pads plus two sets of

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additional risers for those pads the

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risers give you clearance between the

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under body of the car and the main

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transverse candle lifting arm of the

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Hoist you need to make sure that you are

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not going to crush your exhaust or bend

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the tail shaft or underbody this or that

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kind of thing the risers are good for

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establishing that required clearance and

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there is quite a bit of finessing of the

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Poss of the Hoist relative to the car

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and also the swing out and extendable

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arms before they are in the Goldilocks

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lifting Zone and I guess this is the

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price you pay for all of that

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portability also if you are using this

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in your home garage a make sure the

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concrete floor is up to withstanding the

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bearing stress and by that I'm

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particularly referring to that new

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waffle pod concrete floor construction

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where the floor is really just sort of a

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thin veneer of concrete sitting on these

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styrofoam pads and B don't crash the

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roof of the car into this ceiling of the

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garage by lifting somewhat over

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enthusiastically on one of the first

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outings personally I really like putting

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cars on hoists and using lathes and

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Mills and chainsaws and well building

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because these things are proper murder

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machines they actively want to kill you

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I suppose at their most benign they are

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entirely indifferent to killing you so

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you have to be accountable dude you have

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to stop them from doing that it's not

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that hard but hey just don't get it

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wrong even once you have to be a proper

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grownup about jobs such as this mind on

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the job put the phone down stop thinking

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about boobies however

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[Music]

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momentarily here I'm just lifting the

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Santa Fe about halfway through the range

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of capacity for this hoist I'm using a

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Ryobi battery rattle gun to loosen the

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wheel nuts it's a 21 mm deep impact

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socket for this car that's pretty common

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the studs are m12x

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1.5 which is a metric fine pitch so the

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wheels all come off and one was a bit

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stuck incidentally then I just used WD40

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and a scotchbrite pad to buff the boss

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on the axle flange and the corresponding

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bore in the wheel thus saying goodbye to

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any latent corrosion one of the best

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things about WD is it's an excellent

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solvent and cutting lubric

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for this kind of job I just dry that off

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with a rag and then I smear the boss

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with a thin layer of antise operative

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word thin layer this is the penrite

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copper stuff but there's really nothing

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that special about antise it's just

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glorified high temperature grease it

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stops binding and it slows down

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corrosion I'm also smearing a bit of

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anti-seize on the wheel studs and I can

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hear it now in the comments dude the

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outrage till someone who cares okay that

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would not be me but if you really wish

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to unburden yourself in the comments I'm

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pleased to facilitate and I hope it

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helps meanwhile in reality let me put

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this to you in the context of a random

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engineer talking to a random

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there's nothing special about

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wheel nuts and studs dude it's just

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another simple High tensile bolted joint

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standard engineering practice is to back

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the torque spec off by about 30% if you

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go from quote unquote dry which really

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means lightly oiled X Factory to heavily

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greased so if you go from Factory to

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heavily greased knock it back about 30%

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you'll be right the torque is actually a

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proxy for stretch in the stud which

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delivers clamping Force to the Joint

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which is kind of critical most of the

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torque actually gets lost to friction

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during during assembly and it's such a

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highly variable process the wheel studs

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are therefore very robust and the loads

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that they are subjected to are extremely

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conservative in the context of their

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point of failure if the owner's manual

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says do not lubricate and complying

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strictly makes you feel better knock

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yourself out dude that's allowed

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hilariously though in this case he's

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owner's manual gives the freaking torque

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spec in kilogram meters I.E kilog force

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times meters and every torque wrench I

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have ever owned and odds on every torque

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wrench that you will ever get your

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grubby mitson is calibrated in newton

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meters in the metric World in homage to

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the author of La principia

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Mathematica and if you are confronted by

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this situation where you see something

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in kilogram meters and go what do I do

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simple just multiply the number by 10 or

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9.8 or even 9.81 but hey 10's going to

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be fine we're not on the mission to Mars

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here are we so the range in the manual

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is 11 to 13 kg M which equals roughly

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110 to 130 Newton M so the way I look at

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this if 130 is okay lightly oiled

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xfactory

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I'm going with 110 with a thin smear of

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anti- seiz on board I'm also running the

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nuts all the way up the studs and back

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with the wheels off by hand that's a

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test to see if some wood duck with a

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rattle gun in the service department or

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in a tire shop has managed to overcrank

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a stud if a stud gets overcranked it

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yields meaning it stretches permanently

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but probably by only couple of hundred

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microns or so

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human hairs about 100 microns so a

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couple of human hairs worth of stretch

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so you're never going to see it but it

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is going to be enough to stop the nut

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from running smoothly all the way up the

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thread this is an extremely useful

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ghetto engineering test for the health

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of any Threaded Fasteners that you hope

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to put back into service the torque spec

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is designed to deliver indefinite

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longevity for the Fasteners and

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essentially unlimited disassembly and

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reassembly capability and thankfully all

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of these passed my little ghetto

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engineering test but if you do this and

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any fail they're going to need

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replacing when you put the wheels back

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on just get a picture in your head of

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the stud orientation up there on the car

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and index the wheel around to that

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before you lift don't lift the wheel and

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then figure out how you need to spin it

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to get it on cuz that's just too hard

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right especially if you're doing it all

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day I always use a standard socket on an

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extension kind of like a screwdriver I

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guess certainly as a nut driver to get

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the nuts started you should never start

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them off for reassembly using a rattle

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gun because before too long you're going

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to cross thread one and then it's going

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to be a throwaway which is just a total

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pain in the ass I do use the battery

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rattle gun set on one the light is

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setting just to get all the nuts

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basically seated but I'm going to torque

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them all down using a torque wrench when

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the car goes back on the ground and when

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you do that you got to do it in a star

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pattern if you number the studs around

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in a circle consecutively the tightening

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sequence for five studs is going to be 1

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35 2 4 or I suppose 1 4 2 53 depending

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on which way you go around and for six

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studs it's going to going to be

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14253 6 or

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1463

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52 that's important because it prevents

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the brake discs from warping during that

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assembly which can lead to them wearing

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unevenly it's called disc thickness

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variation which you don't want to cause

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and I always go around twice in that

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star pattern with the torque wrench the

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second goal round is just to confirm

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that I didn't Overlook any of the first

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time because you know thinking about

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boobies always such a risk while the car

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was on the Hoist before talking the nuts

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and I know we are zipping backwards and

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forwards in time here but anyway I

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raised it all the way up to do just a

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quick visual health check that's always

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kind of nice anytime you're under the

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car on the floor of the garage with Jack

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Stands whatever you should do this and

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I'm really just looking for anything

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that doesn't look right like oil leaks

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or stains from leaky fluids that have

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dried away subsequently any mechanical

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damage missing fers perished hoses stuff

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like that anything that doesn't look

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right you should identify that because

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picking it up early is always better

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than just having some freaking

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catastrophic failure out there on the

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road I use these neat additional support

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Jacks at cruising altitude right and

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they just give you two additional ground

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contact points and they take some of the

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elastic torsional Flex out of the column

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they're rated at 750 kilos a piece so

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quite robust and you certainly don't

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need them just to walk under the car but

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if you were going to lean on anything

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real hard with like a 2T break a bar or

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a pry bar or something they're

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definitely worth taking the time to put

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in place all up I'm very pleased with

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the single poster it's extremely

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versatile and if I move fat caves it's

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going to be dead easy to winch up onto a

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trailer and take with me ditto I suppose

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if you need a hoist at a racetrack and

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also back in the garage it's also pretty

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good I guess if you've got a busy

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mechanical workshop and hoist time is at

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a premium this would be an easy extra

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hoist to put on the box to use for

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rotating tires Wheels whatever bleeding

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the brakes changing the brakes changing

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dampers bushes whatever any of that

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stuff that needs access to the wheels

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this hoist is really good at that and

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you could use it out in the car park

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kind of thing out on an apron whatever

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as long as there's no slope let's not be

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Defying Gravity to that extent it could

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certainly increase flexibility and

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productivity in workshops where that

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hoist time is really compromised at home

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you can use it on trailers and quads and

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ride on mowers and things like that

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there's an option ATV lifting kit if you

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want to do a lot of that stuff pretty

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good in a farm situation too I'd suggest

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it wouldn't actually make a bad welding

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bench in the shed now that I think about

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it you could just stick in a sheet of 12

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mm plate we could stick the Hoist under

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a sheet of 12 mm plate and there's a

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basic height adjustable fabrication

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bench for some heavy work pretty simple

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solution actually and then you just put

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it on the ground on a couple of bits of

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wood when you need to take it out and

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use it as a hoist anyway the single

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poster comes with a lifetime structural

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warranty and a three-year power pack

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warranty and it takes up very little

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space in practice because you can just

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park on top of it there are ramps to

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drive over the near side bit of the base

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included in the standard package having

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used it several times now I can tell you

play28:50

that this hoist grossly improves

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convenience for any lifting operation

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where previously you would have had to

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roll out the trolley Jack and four jack

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stands and get all four wheels up into

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the air

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contemporaneously it's slashes the time

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it takes for common jobs such as the one

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you've just seen here but if I'm

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completely honest essentially I always

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just wanted a hoist I don't actually

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need one and I suppose that's how a

play29:22

hottie feels when she procures a Dior

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handbag

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and yeah I knew it would be only minutes

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before sitting before you proudly

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thinking about boobies once again in a

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somewhat safe environment it's like

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clockwork dude and I suppose that's a

play29:43

good test too a ghetto engineering hack

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to tell that you're not dead yet

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yes heroh ho.com Au for more of course

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I'll put a link in the description