Less Than 1% of Japanese Sake Is Made This Traditional Way | Still Standing | Business Insider

Summary

This video follows Maiko Tsuji, a seventh-generation sake brewer, as she navigates the challenges of maintaining traditional sake-making methods in a world dominated by mass-produced alternatives. At her Gozenshu Brewery, Maiko uses a rare, centuries-old fermentation process with natural ingredients, including the special Omachi rice. Despite the rising popularity of cheap, additive-filled sake, Maiko focuses on quality, and her efforts are paying off as her artisanal brews gain recognition abroad. The story highlights the struggles and successes of preserving Japan’s sake heritage in a modern world.

Takeaways

• 😀 Massaging fungus into rice is a crucial step in making junmai sake, a pure form of sake without added alcohol or sugar.
• 😀 Only a few sake brewers, like Maiko Tsuji, still use a 600-year-old natural fermentation method to make their sake.
• 😀 Gozenshu Brewery, run by Maiko, has been operating in Northern Okayama since 1804, and produces high-quality sake using Omachi rice and groundwater.
• 😀 Omachi rice, used in brewing, provides an earthy and herbal flavor, and is not cross-bred like other sake rice varieties.
• 😀 The rice is washed, soaked, steamed, and then massaged with koji mold to start the fermentation process, requiring careful temperature control.
• 😀 Maiko's brewery uses the bodaimoto method, relying on naturally occurring yeast rather than added sake yeast, a method that went nearly extinct in the early 1900s.
• 😀 Sake fermentation requires a consistent temperature between 0 and 12°C, and Maiko's team monitors it twice a day to ensure the perfect fermentation environment.
• 😀 Sake production has faced challenges due to competition from cheaper, mass-produced sake with additives, as well as a drop in domestic demand for sake.
• 😀 Maiko's premium sake can cost up to $200, but despite the price difference, many people struggle to taste the difference between high-quality and cheaper varieties.
• 😀 Maiko's focus on quality and traditional methods has led to a growing demand for her sake internationally, with 10% of her sales coming from abroad.

Q & A

What is the process of making sake at Gozenshu Brewery?

The process involves washing and soaking rice, steaming it, and adding koji mold to ferment the rice. This process includes careful monitoring of temperature and humidity to ensure the right conditions for mold growth and fermentation, eventually resulting in a high-quality sake.

Why is the use of koji mold important in sake production?

Koji mold is crucial because it converts the starch in the rice into sugar, which is necessary for the fermentation process to create alcohol. The mold must be massaged evenly into the rice and maintained at a precise temperature to ensure successful fermentation.

How does Gozenshu Brewery differentiate itself from other sake brewers?

Gozenshu Brewery stands out by using traditional, natural fermentation methods like bodaimoto, which relies on naturally occurring yeast rather than adding yeast. This method, which was mostly abandoned in the early 1900s, results in a more savory and distinct flavor in their sake.

What is bodaimoto, and why is it significant in Gozenshu Brewery’s sake-making process?

Bodaimoto is a traditional fermentation technique where naturally occurring yeast is used instead of commercially added yeast. It creates a unique flavor profile for the sake and has been revived by Gozenshu Brewery after nearly disappearing in the early 1900s.

What challenges does Maiko Tsuji face in the sake industry?

Maiko faces the challenge of competing with mass-produced sake, which is often made with cheap additives. Despite producing high-quality, traditional sake, Gozenshu Brewery struggles to compete with cheaper options that dominate the market.

How does the rice variety, Omachi, influence the flavor of sake?

Omachi rice, which is naturally occurring rather than cross-bred, imparts an earthy and herbal flavor to the sake. This variety is a key factor in the distinctive taste of Gozenshu Brewery’s sake.

What role does Gozenshu Brewery’s location in Northern Okayama play in its sake production?

Northern Okayama’s high-quality rice and groundwater make it an ideal location for sake brewing. These natural resources contribute to the superior quality of the sake produced by Gozenshu Brewery.

Why has the demand for sake dropped in Japan, and how has Maiko responded to this trend?

The demand for sake has dropped in Japan due to an aging population and a shift towards other beverages like beer and wine. In response, Maiko has focused on maintaining the quality and tradition of her sake, which has helped her tap into foreign markets.

How has Gozenshu Brewery expanded its market despite challenges in Japan?

While the sake market in Japan has been shrinking, Gozenshu Brewery has seen increasing demand abroad. In 2022, the brewery’s export sales reached a record high, showing a growing appreciation for high-quality sake in international markets like the US and Europe.

What makes Gozenshu Brewery's sake stand out in terms of quality and price?

Gozenshu Brewery’s sake is made using traditional, additive-free methods, resulting in a higher quality product that can cost up to $200 per bottle. This is in stark contrast to cheaper, mass-produced sake, which typically ranges from $7 to $34 per bottle.