A Day Making The World’s #1 Pizza in NYC | On The Line | Bon Appétit

Summary

In this behind-the-scenes look at Una Pizza Napoletana, Anthony Mangieri, renowned pizza maker and owner, shares his meticulous approach to crafting the perfect pizza. From experimenting with different flours and his signature sourdough starter to using a wood-fired oven, Mangieri’s commitment to quality and precision shines through. Each pizza is a reflection of his dedication, ensuring that every detail, from the dough to the ingredients, is perfected. With daily handmade sorbetto and a focus on simplicity, Una Pizza Napoletana offers an unparalleled dining experience that combines artistry, tradition, and innovation.

Takeaways

• 😀 Una Pizza Napoletana has been voted the number one pizza in the world and America twice, emphasizing the excellence and recognition of its product.
• 😀 Anthony Mangieri, the owner and pizza maker, is deeply committed to perfecting his pizza dough, which has been handmade daily since 1996.
• 😀 The pizza dough-making process is highly precise, with Anthony adjusting ingredients and methods based on daily factors such as weather and flour quality.
• 😀 Anthony values simplicity in ingredients, using just flour, water, and salt to create his pizza dough, and continuously experiments to improve it.
• 😀 Making dough is a physical and labor-intensive process, with Anthony preparing multiple batches every day to ensure consistency and quality.
• 😀 The restaurant operates only three days a week, as Anthony dedicates long hours and intense physical labor, emphasizing his personal involvement in every step.
• 😀 The pizza oven, a handmade Italian model, is crucial to the pizza's flavor, with Anthony using specific wood combinations and techniques to manage heat and cooking time.
• 😀 Anthony employs a custom pizza peel and counter setup to ensure efficiency in his one-man operation, adapting tools to fit his needs.
• 😀 Daily preparation includes not only pizza dough but also house-made sorbetto and ice cream, reflecting Anthony’s commitment to high-quality, fresh ingredients.
• 😀 The pizza toppings are focused on the highest quality ingredients, with Anthony prioritizing flavor over complex combinations, aiming for simplicity and excellence in every dish.
• 😀 The restaurant uses a hands-on approach in the kitchen, with no kitchen printers, to foster communication between staff and ensure smooth operation during service.
• 😀 Anthony’s dedication to the craft of pizza-making is fueled by a love for history and tradition, with a constant drive to improve and innovate.

Q & A

What makes the pizza at Una Pizza Napoletana unique?

The pizza at Una Pizza Napoletana is unique due to its combination of Neapolitan roots and Anthony Mangieri's personal innovations. The dough is made with a variety of Italian flours, New York City tap water, and naturally leavened starter (sourdough). The pizza is cooked in a wood-fired oven, and the focus is on simplicity, using only the highest quality ingredients.

Why does Anthony use multiple types of flour in his dough?

Anthony uses anywhere from four to eight different types of Italian flour in the dough because each flour behaves differently and contributes a unique texture and flavor. This experimentation helps him fine-tune the dough's consistency and performance, making each batch slightly different and constantly evolving.

How does the physicality of the job impact Anthony’s work?

The physical demands of the job are significant. Anthony works long hours, often up to 15 hours a day, and makes every pizza himself. The job is physically intense, requiring manual labor for tasks like dough preparation, pizza assembly, and managing the wood-fired oven. This physicality is one reason the restaurant is only open three days a week.

What challenges does Anthony face during the daily operations?

One common challenge Anthony faces is dealing with equipment issues, such as when the dish machine broke during service. These are the types of challenges that are not often seen by customers but are an everyday part of running a restaurant.

Why is the pizza dough so important to Anthony’s process?

The dough is the foundation of the pizza and is the most critical part of the process for Anthony. He spends hours each day making and refining the dough, adjusting ingredients like water and flour, and ensuring it's hydrated enough for the perfect crust. It's what he’s most passionate about and what he constantly strives to improve.

What’s the purpose of the handmade pizza oven at Una Pizza Napoletana?

The handmade pizza oven is crucial because it allows for the creation of the perfect pizza crust. Anthony uses a wood-fired oven, which provides a unique heat distribution and flame quality that enhances the texture and flavor of the pizza. It’s also a nod to ancient baking methods, reflecting Anthony’s interest in historical techniques.

Why does Anthony avoid using commercial yeast in his dough?

Anthony avoids using commercial yeast because he prefers to use a naturally leavened starter (sourdough). This method reflects how leavened bread and pizza were made for thousands of years before the introduction of commercial yeast. It also results in a dough that’s easier to digest, as the fermentation process breaks down some of the harder-to-digest components of wheat.

How does the pizza-making process at Una Pizza Napoletana differ from other pizzerias?

The pizza-making process at Una Pizza Napoletana is more hands-on and personal. Anthony personally oversees the entire dough-making process, adjusting the recipe daily. The pizzas are cooked in a wood-fired oven with attention to every detail, such as managing the heat and the timing of each pizza's bake. Additionally, they only cook three pizzas at a time to maintain quality.

What role does the staff play in the kitchen at Una Pizza Napoletana?

The staff plays a crucial role in supporting Anthony’s pizza-making process, especially in the prep areas and with the timing of service. For instance, the front-of-house team interacts with customers, communicates orders, and ensures efficiency. In the kitchen, the team assists with prep, maintaining the flow of ingredients, and managing the oven to bake pizzas in a timely manner.

What is the significance of the sorbetto and ice cream served at Una Pizza Napoletana?

The sorbetto and ice cream at Una Pizza Napoletana are significant because they offer a refreshing and light end to the meal. Anthony makes these fresh every day, using high-quality, locally sourced fruits like Asian pears. This attention to detail and focus on quality ingredients parallels his approach to the pizzas, ensuring the dessert complements the meal beautifully.