One of the world’s oldest condiments - Dan Kwartler

Summary

In the mid-18th century, England's culinary scene was dominated by a sweet and savory ketchup, not the tomato-based version we know today. Originating from fermented fish sauces like Chinese 'fish sauce' and Roman 'garum,' ketchup evolved with the Dutch introduction of 'ke-tsiap' to Britain. British cookbooks popularized various knockoff ketchups, leading to the creation of Worcestershire and other sauces. The American physician James Mease introduced the first tomato ketchup in 1812, which eventually became the ubiquitous condiment thanks to the bottling industry and Heinz's innovation with riper tomatoes and vinegar, shaping the ketchup we enjoy globally.

Takeaways

• 🍅 In the mid-18th century, ketchup in England was not made from tomatoes but was a sweet and savory brown sauce.
• 📚 Countless 18th-century British cookbooks recommended adding ketchup to a variety of dishes, including stews and desserts.
• 🐟 The origins of ketchup can be traced back to fish sauce, which was used by Chinese fishermen as early as 300 BCE.
• 🌊 The ancient Greeks and Romans also utilized fish sauce, known as garum, which was a staple in their cuisine and military provisions.
• 🏰 The Roman Empire's collapse led to the decline of fish sauce production, and Europeans did not use it for a millennium.
• 🚢 The Dutch East India Company reintroduced a fish-based sauce to Europe in the early 1600s, which was called 'ketchup' after its arrival in Britain.
• 📖 British cookbooks in the 1700s featured homemade ketchup recipes, leading to a variety of brown sauces being labeled as such.
• 🇺🇸 In 1812, American physician James Mease created the first tomato-based ketchup, marking a significant shift in the condiment's ingredients.
• 🍅 Tomatoes were incorporated into ketchup due to their high glutamate content, which provided a similar umami flavor to fish sauce.
• 🏭 The late 1800s saw a rise in bottled foods, and tomato ketchup became popular among bottling companies.
• 🍾 By the 1870s, sugar, salt, and sodium benzoate replaced shallots and brandy in most tomato ketchup recipes.
• 🍾 Henry J. Heinz revolutionized ketchup by replacing sodium benzoate with riper tomatoes and vinegar, creating a thick, goopy formula that became a best-seller.
• 🌏 Heinz's ketchup spread globally, becoming a staple in American households and the base for many other sauces and dressings.

Q & A

What was the popularity of ketchup in 18th century England?

In the mid-18th century, ketchup was a staple in England, with countless cookbooks encouraging its addition to stews, vegetables, and even desserts.

Why does the early ketchup mentioned in the script differ from the modern version?

The early ketchup did not contain tomatoes and was a sweet and savory brown sauce, unlike the modern red tomato-based version.

What is the connection between ketchup and fish sauce?

Ketchup's early form was similar to fish sauce, which was made by fermenting fish and had a strong umami flavor. This flavor profile was later mimicked in ketchup.

How did fish sauce production begin according to the script?

Fish sauce production began as early as 300 BCE when Chinese fishermen salted and stored small fish, which over time fermented, producing a rich, salty liquid.

What was the Roman name for their fish sauce?

The Romans called their fish sauce 'garum', which was a central part of their cuisine.

How did the Dutch East India Company influence the spread of ketchup in Europe?

The Dutch East India Company introduced a local Southeast Asian condiment to Europe, which was then adapted and renamed as ketchup, leading to its widespread use.

What happened to ketchup when the European ships were expelled from Asian trade hubs in the mid-1700s?

Despite being expelled from Asian trade hubs, the British public continued to make and use ketchup, creating their own versions with various ingredients like oysters, anchovies, mushrooms, and walnuts.

How did ketchup evolve into a catch-all name for any brown sauce?

As British cookbooks started to include recipes for various knockoff ketchups using different ingredients, ketchup became a generic term for any brown sauce.

Which American introduced the first tomato-based ketchup?

James Mease, a Philadelphian physician and food hobbyist, introduced the first tomato-based ketchup in 1812.

What ingredient is responsible for the umami flavor in both fish sauce and tomatoes?

Glutamate is the chemical responsible for the umami flavor found in both fish sauce and tomatoes.

How did Henry J. Heinz revolutionize the ketchup recipe?

Henry J. Heinz revolutionized the ketchup recipe by replacing sodium benzoate with riper tomatoes and a large amount of vinegar, creating a thick, goopy formula that became an instant best seller.

What is the significance of Heinz's ketchup in the global spread of the condiment?

Heinz's ketchup became a global phenomenon, with its recipe serving as the base for dozens of other sauces and dressings, and is now found in 90% of American households.