What type of flour makes the best Pizza?

Ethan Chlebowski
5 Dec 202229:36

Summary

TLDRIn this video, the host conducts a comprehensive test to explore the impact of different types of flour on pizza quality. Comparing bleached and unbleached all-purpose flour, bread flour, and Italian double zero flour, the experiment delves into their effects on two pizza styles: Detroit and Neapolitan. The script offers insights into flour production, protein content, ash content, and the role of added ingredients, concluding that while all flours can yield good results, the choice of flour significantly influences texture and taste, with bread flour excelling for Detroit style and double zero providing a tender bite for Neapolitan.

Takeaways

  • πŸ• The video conducts a side-by-side test of different types of flour to determine their impact on pizza quality, focusing on Detroit and Neapolitan styles.
  • πŸ“š It delves into the world of flour, aiming to answer common questions about various types like all-purpose, bread flour, double zero flour, and their differences.
  • 🌾 The script explains the milling process of wheat into flour, highlighting the importance of the extraction rate and how it affects the flour's composition.
  • πŸ” The importance of gluten protein content in flour is discussed, as it influences the dough's texture and rise, with hard wheat varieties typically creating a stronger gluten network.
  • 🌈 The differences between bleached and unbleached flour are explored, with the former being aged less and potentially affecting the dough's rise.
  • πŸ“ The significance of ash content in European flour labeling is explained, serving as an indirect measure of bran and germ separation from the endosperm.
  • 🍞 The role of added ingredients like malted barley and enzymes in flour is briefly mentioned, noting their function in aiding the fermentation process.
  • πŸ§€ The Detroit style pizza test reveals that bread flour rose the most and produced the airiest crust, while double zero flour didn't brown as well in a lower-temperature oven.
  • πŸ”₯ The Neapolitan style pizza test shows that the double zero flour, made from soft wheat, was easier to shape and had a tender bite, but its benefits may not justify the high price.
  • 🍴 The taste test for the Detroit style pizza favored the bread flour for its combination of crunch and airiness, while the Neapolitan style test found the double zero flour to be a good match for its style.
  • πŸ’‘ The video concludes that while different flours can impact pizza quality, personal preference plays a significant role in choosing the best flour for one's needs.

Q & A

  • What is the main focus of the video?

    -The video focuses on a side-by-side test of different types of flour to determine if certain flours make better pizza dough, specifically for Detroit and Neapolitan styles of pizza.

  • What are the two styles of pizza tested in the video?

    -The two styles of pizza tested are Detroit style and Neapolitan style.

  • How many different bags of flour were used in the test?

    -Four different bags of flour were used in the test: bleached and enriched all-purpose flour, unbleached all-purpose flour, bread flour, and double zero flour from Italy.

  • What is the significance of the alveograph test mentioned in the video?

    -The alveograph test is significant because it measures the dough's textural qualities, proving that different flours can produce measurably different doughs.

  • Why does the video mention the ash content of flour?

    -The ash content is mentioned because it is an indirect way to measure how well the bran and germ were separated from the endosperm in the flour, which affects the flour's properties.

  • What is the difference between bleached and unbleached flour mentioned in the video?

    -Bleached flour is whitened and aged faster using chemicals like ascorbic acid, while unbleached flour is aged naturally, which can affect its rise and texture in doughs.

  • Why is the protein content of flour important for bread and pizza doughs?

    -The protein content is important because it affects the formation of the gluten network, which in turn influences the dough's ability to stretch, rise, and hold its structure.

  • What does the video suggest about the use of double zero flour for Neapolitan style pizza?

    -The video suggests that double zero flour, made from soft wheat, provides a tender bite and is easier to shape, making it suitable for Neapolitan style pizza, but it may not be worth the high price for some people.

  • What is the hydration level used for the Detroit style pizza dough in the video?

    -The hydration level used for the Detroit style pizza dough is 75%.

  • What is the difference in the dough preparation between Detroit and Neapolitan styles in the video?

    -The Neapolitan style dough has a lower hydration level (62%), uses less yeast, has a longer fermentation time (minimum of 8 hours), and is baked at a much higher temperature (905 degrees Fahrenheit).

  • What is the conclusion of the video regarding the best flour for Detroit and Neapolitan style pizzas?

    -The conclusion is that bread flour is best for Detroit style pizza due to its stronger gluten network and cloud-like bite, while for Neapolitan style, the double zero flour is suitable but not necessarily worth the high cost compared to domestic options.

Outlines

00:00

πŸ• Flour for Pizza: The Ultimate Test

The video script introduces a comprehensive test to determine if certain types of flour make better pizza dough. The host plans to compare four different types of flour for two distinct pizza styles: Detroit and Neapolitan. The script promises an in-depth exploration of flour, addressing common questions about all-purpose and bread flour, double zero flour, the effects of bleaching and unbleaching, protein content, and ash content. The goal is to understand if there's a noticeable difference in pizza quality based on flour choice and if more expensive options provide a significant upgrade.

05:02

🌾 Understanding Flour Production and Properties

This paragraph delves into the process of flour production, from wheat harvesting to milling, and the importance of the extraction rate. It explains the composition of wheat grains and how the bran and endosperm affect the flour's characteristics. The script also touches on the differences between whole wheat and white flour, the role of gluten proteins in dough, and the significance of ash content in flour labeling. The paragraph sets the stage for the flour tests by discussing the variables that could influence the dough's performance.

10:03

🏭 Flour Testing: Variables and Methods

The script outlines the variables that affect flour performance, such as wheat grain type, gluten protein content, ash content, and added ingredients. It introduces the Chopin alveograph, a machine used to measure dough elasticity and strength, and discusses the importance of these measurements in understanding how different flours create distinct dough textures. The paragraph also presents the first pizza test: making Detroit-style pizza with four different flours, observing the dough's rise, bake, and taste to identify the best performer.

15:04

🍴 Taste Test and Flour Analysis

The taste test results for the Detroit-style pizza are shared, with observations on the dough's texture and flavor differences. The script discusses the reasons behind the varying outcomes, such as protein content and flour type. It also raises questions about why certain flours rose more than others and why the bleached all-purpose flour had smaller holes in the crumb. The paragraph sets up the second test, which will explore how these flours perform under different conditions, such as lower hydration and high-temperature baking.

20:07

πŸ“Š Flour Labeling and Protein Content

This paragraph focuses on the labeling of flour in different countries, particularly the difference between protein percentage labeling in the U.S. and ash content labeling in Europe. It explains the significance of protein content in flour and how it affects dough's elasticity and rise. The script also discusses the role of gluten proteins in dough formation and the impact of wheat type on gluten quality. The paragraph concludes with a caveat that higher protein content is not always desirable, depending on the type of baked good being made.

25:09

πŸ” Flour Enrichment and Bleaching

The script explains the process of flour bleaching and its purpose, contrasting it with the natural aging of flour. It discusses the historical context of flour enrichment during wartime and its continued use today to restore nutrients lost during milling. The paragraph also mentions additional ingredients like malted barley and enzymes that are added to flour to aid in the fermentation process. The discussion provides a deeper understanding of the factors that influence flour quality and performance.

πŸ”₯ Neapolitan Pizza Test: Flour's Impact

The final paragraph describes the Neapolitan pizza test, which uses different dough variables such as hydration, yeast amount, fermentation time, and baking temperature. The script compares the results of using various flours in this style of pizza, noting differences in browning, crumb texture, and taste. It concludes with the host's personal preference for the double zero flour in Neapolitan pizza, but also questions the high cost of imported flour and suggests considering domestic alternatives.

Mindmap

Keywords

πŸ’‘Flour

Flour is the main ingredient in the video's dough recipes and is the central theme of the video. It is a powder made by grinding raw grains or seeds, typically wheat, used in baking and cooking. The script explores different types of flour and their impact on pizza quality, highlighting how different flours can alter the texture and taste of the final product.

πŸ’‘Pizza

Pizza is the subject of the video's culinary experiment, serving as the medium to test the effects of various flours. The script discusses two distinct styles of pizza: Detroit and Neapolitan, each requiring different dough characteristics. The outcome of each pizza is used to evaluate the performance of the flours.

πŸ’‘Protein Content

Protein content in flour is a key factor affecting dough elasticity and rise. The video explains that higher protein content, particularly of glutenin and gliadin, results in a stronger gluten network, which is desirable for bread and pizza doughs. It is used to compare how different flours perform in the dough-making process.

πŸ’‘Ash Content

Ash content refers to the mineral content of flour, which is an indirect measure of how well the bran and germ have been separated from the endosperm. The script notes that in Europe, flour is often labeled by ash content, which can affect the flour's baking properties and is a point of comparison between different flours in the video.

πŸ’‘Extraction Rate

The extraction rate of flour indicates the percentage of the wheat grain that has been converted into flour. The video mentions that higher extraction rates, such as in whole wheat flour, include more of the wheat grain, including the bran and germ, which can affect the flour's texture and nutritional content.

πŸ’‘Bleached Flour

Bleached flour is flour that has been treated with chemicals to whiten it, a process that can affect its rise and texture. The script contrasts bleached flour with unbleached, suggesting that the former may not rise as well due to the lack of aging that typically occurs with unbleached flour.

πŸ’‘Enriched Flour

Enriched flour is flour that has had nutrients added to it to replace those lost during the milling process. The video explains that enriching flour was originally a wartime measure to ensure nutritional adequacy and is still practiced today to improve the flour's nutritional profile.

πŸ’‘Double Zero Flour

Double zero flour, a term used in Italy, refers to a very finely milled flour with a low ash content and a minimum protein content. The video discusses its use in Neapolitan-style pizza and compares it to other flours in terms of dough handling, taste, and texture.

πŸ’‘Gluten

Gluten is a protein network in dough that allows for elasticity and the trapping of air, which contributes to the dough's rise. The script explains that the quality and quantity of gluten proteins, such as glutenin and gliadin, in different flours affect the dough's performance in baking.

πŸ’‘Alveograph

The alveograph is a device used to measure the strength and elasticity of dough, providing a visual graph of its properties. The video uses the alveograph to illustrate that different flours produce doughs with varying textural qualities, which is a key point in the discussion of flour types.

πŸ’‘Bench Rest

Bench rest is a period of rest given to dough after it has been shaped, allowing it to relax and further develop its gluten structure. The script mentions bench rest as part of the process for making Neapolitan-style pizza, highlighting its importance in the dough's final texture.

Highlights

The video conducts a side-by-side test of different types of flour to determine their impact on pizza quality.

Four types of flour are used: bleached all-purpose, unbleached all-purpose, bread flour, and Italian double zero flour.

A deep dive into the world of flour explores its composition, types, and effects on baking.

The video answers common questions about flour, such as the difference between all-purpose and bread flour, and the role of ash content.

The importance of protein content in flour is discussed, with its impact on the dough's texture and rise.

The difference between bleached and unbleached flour is explained, along with the process of flour bleaching.

The video tests the flours in two pizza styles: Detroit and Neapolitan, to see the effects on crust, texture, and taste.

Bread flour is found to rise the most, creating an airy texture, especially suitable for Detroit style pizza.

Bleached all-purpose flour's smaller holes in the crumb and its taste are compared to other flours.

The alveograph test is introduced to measure the dough's air bubble formation and texture differences.

The gluten network's role in dough rise and texture is explained, with the importance of both glutenin and gliadin proteins.

The ash content's significance as an indirect measure of bran and germ separation from the endosperm is discussed.

The video tests the flours in a Neapolitan pizza context, considering variables like hydration, yeast amount, and oven temperature.

The double zero flour's tender bite and ease of shaping are noted as suitable for Neapolitan style pizza.

The conclusion suggests that while different flours yield different results, the choice depends on the desired pizza style and personal preference.

The video encourages viewers to decide the best flour for their needs based on the information provided.

Transcripts

play00:00

in today's video I want to do a

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side-by-side test of something I've been

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wondering about for years

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and that is do certain types of flour

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actually make better pizza so I made a

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batch of dough with four different bags

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of flour for not one but two completely

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different styles of Pizza Detroit and

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Neapolitan so we can get to the bottom

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of this

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now in addition to Pizza testing we're

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gonna do a deep dive into the world of

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flour that will explode your knowledge

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and understanding of the white powdery

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stuff as I tried to answer just about

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every question I could think of when it

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comes to flour for example things like

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our all-purpose and bread flour actually

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that much different what exactly is

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double zero flour and is it worth the

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high price tag what's the difference

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between bleached and unbleached flour

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does a one percent higher protein

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content actually make better bread and

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why do some countries label their flour

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by Ash content and maybe most

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importantly of all how much of a

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difference does any of this stuff

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actually make like can I just stick to

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my standard bag of all-purpose flour or

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is there an upgrade to be had from some

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of these more expensive options and in

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this video I went down so many rabbit

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holes the world of flower is

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simultaneously confusing and absolutely

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exhilarating and it's not because you or

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me just don't understand it I actually

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think it's due to three factors one

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there's non-standard labeling in

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basically every country Italy Germany

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and France label their flowers by Ash

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content but the U.S typically goes by

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protein percentage and even then a lot

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of the bags in the U.S aren't required

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to list the exact percentage so

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naturally they don't get into that later

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secondly some flowers may or may not be

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desirable depending on what you are

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actually making for example a higher

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protein flour May create a more robust

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gluten Network which you would want in a

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loaf of bread but you may not want that

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in a cookie so I chose to use Pizza as

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our guiding use case in this video but

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if you want me to do follow-ups there's

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about 10 different video ideas that I

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got while writing this one and then

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thirdly the outcomes are subjectively

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good or bad as a continuation of number

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two even if we made the same product

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Pizza in this case with all four flowers

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at the end of the day these outcomes are

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subjectively good or bad and this is

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where your role comes in as a viewer I'm

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going to lay out all the information

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give you some of my thoughts but

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ultimately it will be up to you to

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decide what's best for you for example I

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could say that the super light and Airy

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crust isn't for me but some of you may

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be eyeing that as your dream pizza so

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where does our journey begin well first

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I'm going to outline the four bags of

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flour I chose for testing why I chose

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them and then we'll go over some of the

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key variables that I think everyone

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should know when it comes to flour and

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we'll get into those two different

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styles of pizza testing before we break

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it down a quick thank you to today's

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sponsor Harry's one of the hardest

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things I have to do each holiday season

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is shop for my dad and three brothers

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but thanks to Harry's I've got them

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Care Essentials we have the shave cream

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exfoliating face wash the post Shea balm

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and a daily face lotion and as I've

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gotten older I definitely appreciate

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buying or receiving gifts that I know

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people are actually going to use and

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with Harry's they make it easy this

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holiday season so if you've got someone

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that's tough to buy for check out

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harrys.com Ethan for some gift ideas at

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a great price

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thank you again Harry's for sponsoring

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this video but now let's dive into the

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test candidates for both the Detroit and

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Neapolitan style pizzas I use four

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different bags of flowers at varying

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price point and flower particle makeup

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and these are one bleached and enriched

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all-purpose flour two unbleached

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all-purpose flour three bread flour and

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four double zero flour from Italy

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so your first question might be why the

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hell was this bag of flour twenty

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dollars secondly if you're from Europe

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you might be wondering what bleach flour

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even is because it's not legal there and

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we'll get to both of those but more

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importantly I want to explain the

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differences and variables that come

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between these flowers that we're

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purchasing at the store and to begin to

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understand that we first need to run

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through how flour is produced in the

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first place so most of us probably know

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that wheat is grown in a field and when

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ready the wheat is harvested before

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being separated and cleaned into

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individual wheat grain and these grains

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are then milled and turned into the

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flour that we buy at the grocery store

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but what you maybe haven't seen is

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inside these individual grains so each

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grain or wheat berry has three main

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pieces the outer layer known as the bran

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and then inside we have the endosperm

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and The Germ so when this wheat grain is

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crushed and milled there's two goals we

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are after for a white flower one is to

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separate the brand in The Germ from the

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endosperm as well as possible and then

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secondly maximize the flour made from

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the separated endosperm

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and each package of flour is going to

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have an extraction rate which is simply

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how much flour was actually extracted

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from the grains so typically all-purpose

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and bread flours in the U.S are going to

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have around a 70 percent extraction rate

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meaning if we started with 100 pounds or

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grams of wheat 70 pounds or grams of

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flour were produced now interestingly

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the double zero flour from Italy has

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around a 50 percent extraction rate as

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it's the most refined of all these

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flowers but one more note if you look

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really closely at the cheapest

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all-purpose flour you'll notice a higher

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percentage of little flecks of brown

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which are likely little bits of the bran

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and endosperm that didn't get separated

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now the question is do these tiny tiny

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little bits of the bran in the endosperm

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actually affect the dough and it turns

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out they probably do so as you can maybe

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guess whole wheat flour on the other

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hand uses the entire bran endosperm and

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The Germ and it's going to have close to

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a 100 percent extract action rate now if

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whole wheat flour is generally more

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nutritious and also taste more intensely

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like wheat why isn't it a more popular

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flour and it honestly could be a whole

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separate video if we wanted to but the

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short form is noted from two big reasons

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in on food and cooking basically the

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bran and The Germ cause two problems

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first they can go bad in a few weeks so

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whole wheat flour has a shorter shelf

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life than white flour and then secondly

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and probably more importantly the bran

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and The Germ interfere chemically and

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physically with the formation of the

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gluten Network and this leads to less

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rise and a denser bread compared to the

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light and fluffy stuff that most of

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society has come to love so the cheapest

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all-purpose flour was the only one that

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I could see with my eye and camera

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equipment that had noticeably more of

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those brown flecks throughout and that

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may start to explain why people say

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cheaper all-purpose flours don't rise as

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well however that's just one variable of

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many so a regular pizza Forum member may

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say that bleached all-purpose flour is

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for absolute heathens whereas your

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average home cook may just be saying hey

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I know it's not the best but even bad

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pizza is good pizza right so in this

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video I've tried to kind of merge these

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two philosophies together and give you

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the big picture of what probably matters

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most when it comes to selecting out your

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flower and then if you want to there are

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so many more rabbit holes you can go

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down so what I want to talk about next

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is the Chopin alveograph not because you

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need to fully understand it I definitely

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don't even understand the science behind

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it but I want to talk about the show pin

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alveol graph because it proves a

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fundamental question which is does

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different flour actually make measurably

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different doughs so for commercial

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purposes there's this machine made by a

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company called Chopin technologies that

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can evaluate how different flowers will

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work in a dough and it works by going

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through five stages is and there's this

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kind of cool video where you can

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actually watch this entire test but

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basically it pumps air into dough like a

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balloon until it pops now this test

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spits out five measures onto a graph

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now if you want to read more into this

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test I'll link some resources below but

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again my reason for bringing this up is

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that theoretically this proves each

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flower will produce a different dough

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that will vary in textural qualities AKA

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they will produce different readings on

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an alveo graph so what this means for us

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is that there may not be a big

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difference in one of the pizza tests

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whereas the other Pizza test there might

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be huge differences in the dough texture

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and quality and naturally I think this

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brings up two important questions that

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we need to answer one is what are the

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variables that would cause these flowers

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to produce different does because again

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they kind of all look the same and then

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secondly how noticeable are the

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differences when we taste them now we'll

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get into those variables in a bit and

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there's some really really important

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information in there but first let's

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just hop into the first pizza test which

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is the Detroit style pizza

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Detroit style pizza is probably my

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favorite pizza to make at home and it's

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made in a carbon steel pan and for this

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variation I made four identical batches

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of dough which was 300 grams of flour 75

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hydration or 225 grams of water 6 grams

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of instant yeast and six grams of salt

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and I actually just threw all of these

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in the blender or food processor in

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pulse over low to quickly combine the

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soap so I could get my forearms a little

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break

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once each dough was done I added a cap

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full of olive oil to the container and

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then laid in the bleached all purpose

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the unbleached all-purpose the bread

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flour and the double zero flour before

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covering them

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I let all these rise for two hours and

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here they are and we have our first

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quick observation one is that the bread

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flour clearly Rose the most next

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followed by the double zero then the

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unbleached all-purpose and the bleached

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all-purpose but what happens when we

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actually bake them so to assemble I

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added some oil to each of these Detroit

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style pizza pan and added 250 grams of

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each dough I let each dough rest for

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another 20 minutes before pushing them

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into the rectangular shape to fill up

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the pan

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once shaped I added a mix of Monterey

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Jack slices and mozzarella cheese which

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I think gets the closest to replicating

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the more traditional Wisconsin brick

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cheese that is typically used in Detroit

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lastly sauce it with the classic three

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stripes of tomato sauce and to cook

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these I added each pan to a 425 degree

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oven and rotated them at 10 minutes

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again at 10 minutes and for the final

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five minutes for 25 minute cook time in

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total

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now I don't know about you but after

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slicing them up all of them look pretty

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darn good to me however there are some

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noticeable differences that we can see

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in terms of Browning all of them are

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pretty solid but the double zero in

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bleached all-purpose weren't quite as

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good and for my money I'd say the bread

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flour browned up the nicest now I was

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doing some digging and stumbled across

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this pizza for him where they kind of

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mentioned that double zero typically

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doesn't Brown that well in lower

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temperature ovens so that's going to be

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something to keep an eye on in the next

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test where the pizza oven will be at 900

play11:49

degrees Fahrenheit but Browning aside I

play11:52

think the bigger difference is in the

play11:54

crumb of the dough again the bread flour

play11:57

Rose the most and is so much more Airy

play11:59

compared to both of the all-purpose

play12:01

flowers now the double zero also has

play12:04

some larger bubbles but overall did it

play12:06

rise quite as much as the bread and it's

play12:08

definitely not as Airy so we can see

play12:12

some of these differences but how much

play12:13

different do they actually taste side by

play12:15

side I haven't had pizza in a while so

play12:18

I'm really stoked for this taste test

play12:19

right now

play12:23

and in this taste test I'm not

play12:24

necessarily trying to guess which one is

play12:26

like which or which one is best I'm just

play12:28

kind of trying to observe at this point

play12:33

I mean it's it's good it's good it's all

play12:36

Pizza is pretty much good it's hard to

play12:37

make bad Pizza

play12:39

number two

play12:42

this one a little bit denser

play12:45

than the first one I tasted all right

play12:47

number three

play12:50

the one thing from this one I think

play12:52

there were some bigger bubbles in this

play12:53

one but still a little bit denser than

play12:55

number one I'd kind of put this one in

play12:57

between number

play12:59

um one and two in terms of kind of like

play13:00

lightness a little bit bigger bubble

play13:04

[Music]

play13:11

okay so number four

play13:14

definitely the lightest of the bunch it

play13:16

was really nice to bite into like nice

play13:19

and Airy

play13:21

um

play13:22

as far as taste goes like they all

play13:24

tasted really good but definitely there

play13:25

is a noticeable noticeable difference

play13:27

between number four and the rest of them

play13:30

especially in terms of lightness so you

play13:33

guys should know but I'm looking now so

play13:34

bread flour double zero

play13:38

bleached all-purpose and then the

play13:40

regular all-purpose so straight up for

play13:42

this style of pizza I think the bread

play13:45

flour is clearly Superior you get this

play13:48

crazy juxtaposition of that crunchy and

play13:51

crisp crust that turns into just this

play13:53

light Airy bite and chew which I find

play13:56

very very addictive next time I make

play13:59

Detroit style pizza I'm definitely gonna

play14:01

have some bread flour on hand

play14:04

so clearly the video is not over because

play14:06

if you were like me you still have a lot

play14:08

of questions you want to be answered for

play14:11

one why did the bread and double zero

play14:13

flower rise noticeably more than the

play14:15

all-purpose versions and then secondly

play14:17

why did the bleached all-purpose flour

play14:19

have such tiny holes in the crumb and

play14:21

overall why does it taste kind of say

play14:24

the same and then for test number two I

play14:26

want to know how are these flowers going

play14:28

to react at one a much lower hydration

play14:31

and with a heat at over 900 degrees

play14:33

Fahrenheit so now it's time to dive into

play14:36

the four variables that I think are most

play14:39

important to know when it comes to

play14:41

buying flour at the grocery store and

play14:44

these are the type of wheat grain the

play14:46

gluten protein content and why it's

play14:48

important third is the ash content and

play14:50

then fourth is added ingredients take a

play14:53

look at this table from on food and

play14:55

cooking that lists the major wheat types

play14:57

that are produced in the United States

play14:59

and the protein content of each of these

play15:01

types of wheat as you'll notice is

play15:04

different

play15:05

so in 2021 hard red wheat accounted for

play15:08

63.5 of the total wheat production in

play15:12

the United States and these are the

play15:14

Wheats used to make our all-purpose and

play15:16

bread flours that we find in the store

play15:19

now another interesting note is that in

play15:21

Europe I couldn't find the exact

play15:23

statistic by wheat type but the majority

play15:25

of their wheat grown to produce flowers

play15:27

is said to be a soft wheat variety which

play15:30

has a lower protein content and as we

play15:33

see in this next table this leads to

play15:35

flowers like type 55 in France and the

play15:37

UK plain flowers that overall have a

play15:40

lower protein content than the standard

play15:42

all-purpose flour we have available in

play15:45

the U.S there are other differentiating

play15:48

factors that will change how a wheat

play15:49

flour Works in a dough but as Harold

play15:51

McGee notes the most important

play15:53

distinguishing characteristic of a wheat

play15:56

type and by extension of flour it is

play15:58

made from is the content and quality of

play16:01

the gluten proteins

play16:03

and again we probably need an entire

play16:05

different video just talking about

play16:07

gluten but let's do a quick Speed Run

play16:09

version because the gluten network is

play16:12

what allows air to be trapped and our

play16:14

pizza dough to rise simply put gluten is

play16:18

a network of protein that allows our

play16:20

dough to stretch and spring and this

play16:22

illustration shows how it works at a

play16:24

microscopic level the gluten network is

play16:26

made above these interconnected gluten

play16:28

sheets that are filled with the starch

play16:31

granules from the flowers and this

play16:33

gluten sheet is what allows gas or air

play16:36

to be trapped and hold its structure

play16:38

before being baked where everything

play16:40

solidifies in place but you may be

play16:43

wondering how does this gluten sheet

play16:45

actually form so by weight flour is made

play16:48

up of several components the gluten

play16:50

proteins typically make up 10 to 15

play16:52

percent the starch granules around 70

play16:55

percent moisture is typically 12 to 15

play16:58

percent and then like one percent less

play17:00

of other stuff so what I found

play17:02

interesting is that we tip typically

play17:04

just call it gluten but gluten is

play17:06

actually made up of two different gluten

play17:08

protein one is gluten in which when

play17:11

hydrated with water forms a very strong

play17:13

bond with each other and this is what

play17:16

makes that extensive and tightly knit

play17:18

Network and the glutenin is responsible

play17:20

for making the dough elastic or its

play17:23

ability to stretch

play17:24

the second gluten protein is gliadin

play17:27

which also when hydrated with water

play17:29

forms a weak bond to themselves and the

play17:32

gluten in and this protein is what makes

play17:34

the dough plastic or its ability to be

play17:37

shaped now it may seem like gluten in is

play17:40

the more important of the two but we

play17:42

actually do need both proteins for our

play17:45

dough to work for example a dough with

play17:47

only gluten and protein would keep

play17:49

snapping back into place like a rubber

play17:51

band without being able to be shaped and

play17:54

a flower with only gliadine on the other

play17:56

hand would have such a weak gluten

play17:58

Network it wouldn't be able to trap any

play18:00

air and we wouldn't get any rise take a

play18:03

look at this photo it actually shows the

play18:05

gluten proteins from soft wheat and hard

play18:07

wheat varieties that is extracted from

play18:10

the endosperm and assuming the overall

play18:13

protein content is the same the hard

play18:15

wheat actually will still create a

play18:18

stronger gluten Network because the

play18:20

quality of the gluten protein is higher

play18:22

and this is why both the quantity and

play18:25

the quality of the gluten proteins in a

play18:28

flour is so important and this

play18:30

difference between soft and hard wheat

play18:32

actually may explain one of the things

play18:34

that I noticed when working with the

play18:36

Neapolitan style pizza dough so when I

play18:39

was shaping the pizzas the double zero

play18:41

flour dough was so much easier to shape

play18:44

compared to the bread or all-purpose

play18:46

flour doughs that kept springing back

play18:49

together and this is important to point

play18:51

out that the double zero is made from

play18:52

soft wheat while the hard wheat was used

play18:55

for the other proteins so at this point

play18:57

you can start going down a bunch of

play18:59

different rabbit holes but here is the

play19:02

big picture you need to keep in mind

play19:03

when it comes to protein content in your

play19:06

flour and that is if you have identical

play19:09

flowers the one with the higher quantity

play19:11

and quality of the gluten proteins will

play19:15

form a stronger and more elastic gluten

play19:17

network with a higher potential for rise

play19:21

so if you think back to that alveo graph

play19:23

test a stronger gluten network will be

play19:25

able to take more air pressure before

play19:27

that dough bubble pops

play19:29

now I need to point out two caveats one

play19:32

is this is assuming you have identical

play19:34

flowers like I said there are a lot of

play19:37

factors that can influence how the

play19:39

gluten develops in a dough how they rise

play19:41

and how they Brown for example you may

play19:44

see that 14 protein content on a whole

play19:46

wheat bag of flour but because it has

play19:49

the bran and The Germ and the flour it

play19:51

actually shears the gluten Network

play19:53

resulting in a more dense dough and less

play19:56

rise and secondly higher protein content

play19:59

and a stronger gluten network is not

play20:01

always desirable we typically want a

play20:04

stronger gluten Network for Breads and

play20:06

pizza doughs but in a pastry dough we

play20:08

actually want to limit the amount of

play20:10

gluten that is formed and I'm really

play20:12

interested to see how much different a

play20:14

bread dough would be in a cookie or

play20:15

pastry dough so if you want me to do a

play20:17

follow-up video I will happily do so so

play20:20

while protein content and flour is

play20:22

probably the most important thing to

play20:23

look out for in a U.S grocery store it's

play20:26

very interesting to note that in

play20:28

European countries like France Germany

play20:31

and Italy their flower is labeled by

play20:34

numbers and these numbers refer to the

play20:36

ash content in flower and obviously this

play20:39

begs the question what is Ash content

play20:42

for a simple definition Ash content is

play20:45

simply the mineral material and flour

play20:47

and I'll link a couple of Articles below

play20:49

but what's kind of confusing about the

play20:52

ash content is that it actually doesn't

play20:54

really matter what matters is that it's

play20:57

indirectly a way to measure how well the

play21:00

bran and germ were separated from the

play21:02

endosperm so do you remember that whole

play21:05

wheat grain from earlier

play21:07

so typically around two percent of a

play21:09

wheat grain is going to be made up of

play21:11

mineral material of which point three

play21:14

five percent is going to be in the

play21:16

endosperm meaning the other 1.65 is in

play21:20

the germ and the brand now in Germany

play21:22

and France the numbers on the bag of

play21:24

flour are based on these values so if

play21:27

you see a type 405 this means there are

play21:29

405 milligrams of Ash content per 100

play21:32

grams of flour in France on the other

play21:34

hand the type 45 means 45 milligrams per

play21:37

10 grams of flour so the numbers in

play21:40

Germany and France flowers make sense

play21:42

but you must be wondering what does the

play21:44

double zero refer to in Italy so before

play21:47

looking into this I assume that double

play21:48

zero zero one and two flowers were just

play21:51

different sizes of how the flower was

play21:53

ground but again after reading into a

play21:56

pizza forum and following a link it's

play21:58

actually based on the ash content not

play22:01

the size or how fine it's milled and the

play22:04

main requirement here is that the

play22:06

maximum Ash content and in double zero

play22:08

flour is only 0.55 percent and the

play22:12

protein must be a minimum of nine

play22:14

percent and this is why if you look at

play22:16

the computer website they'll have

play22:18

several different double zero flowers

play22:20

that have slightly different protein

play22:22

amounts but with that being said there's

play22:24

just two more items I want to note

play22:26

before we hop into that Neapolitan style

play22:29

pizza test first let's answer why is

play22:31

flour bleached and what does that even

play22:34

mean so traditionally freshly milled

play22:36

flowers are kind of a creamy yellow so

play22:39

while they are in that creamy yellow

play22:40

State they are actually stored for aging

play22:43

and aging does two important things as

play22:46

noted in on food and cooking the

play22:48

traditional air aging of flour has a

play22:50

visible side effect and that is the

play22:52

yellowish flower becomes progressively

play22:54

paler as the xanthophyll pigments are

play22:56

oxidized to a colorless form and

play22:59

secondly the oxygen in the air actually

play23:01

frees up the gluten in proteins and

play23:04

sulfur group so they react with each

play23:06

other and can form even longer gluten

play23:08

chains giving the dough a greater

play23:10

elasticity and if you see unbleached

play23:13

flour this is basically another way of

play23:15

saying age flower so if we get two of

play23:18

those great benefits from aging why did

play23:20

people even start bleaching flour in the

play23:22

first place and simply put storage and

play23:25

aging costs money so adding absorbic

play23:27

acid is another way to whiten the flour

play23:30

and get it on the shelves faster

play23:32

now since bleach flour is not aged this

play23:35

could be another potential Factor why it

play23:38

doesn't rise quite as well as the

play23:40

unbleached all-purpose so we've got

play23:42

bleaching down but what does enriched

play23:44

flour mean so when Rich flour started as

play23:47

a wartime necessity where food

play23:48

production and nutrient provision was a

play23:50

concern and it is kind of just stuck

play23:52

around since then and the purpose of

play23:54

enriching flour is just to replenish the

play23:57

nutrients in the flour to match the

play23:59

nutritional status of a flower with the

play24:01

original bran and germ nutrients and

play24:04

here are the nutrients you'll typically

play24:06

find on a bag oven Rich flour which are

play24:08

going to be on the ingredient label now

play24:11

one last tidbit is that you may see two

play24:13

other ingredients on a bag of flour and

play24:15

that is malted barley and enzymes and

play24:18

these are mainly there just to assist a

play24:20

little bit in the fermentation process

play24:22

so for some of you that may have been

play24:24

way more information than you ever

play24:26

wanted to know about flour but I bet for

play24:28

a lot of you you kind of have some more

play24:30

questions but regardless let's move into

play24:32

our final test and that is the

play24:34

Neapolitan style pizza which introduces

play24:37

a lot of new variables with how the

play24:39

dough is made

play24:42

I made my Neapolitan style pizza

play24:44

according to the standards set by Pizza

play24:47

napolitana which mandates that a double

play24:49

zero flower from an improved supplier

play24:52

must be used which is the flower I got

play24:54

but obviously I'm switching out that

play24:56

variable for this test and really I'm

play24:58

curious about a couple of things one is

play25:01

double zero really the secret to great

play25:03

pizza as this two minute Master Class

play25:06

article claims secondly does it have any

play25:08

differences in how the dough handles

play25:10

does it taste better is the texture

play25:12

better does it brown better and if so by

play25:15

how much is it actually worth this high

play25:17

price that from a dough making

play25:19

perspective Neapolitan dough is wildly

play25:21

different than Detroit style and here

play25:23

are the main variables first the

play25:25

hydration is 62 percent compared to 75

play25:28

the amount of yeast is way way less the

play25:32

fermentation time increased from two

play25:34

hours all the way up to a minimum of

play25:35

eight I did 12 and then the temperature

play25:37

of the oven should be 905 degrees

play25:40

Fahrenheit

play25:42

and I let each dough ferment in the

play25:44

container in the oven to maintain a

play25:46

standard temperature for the 12 hour

play25:48

ferment

play25:49

after 12 hours I separated them into 200

play25:52

gram balls of dough and let them bench

play25:54

rest for 30 minutes before shaping

play25:57

so during this time I got the uni heated

play25:59

up to the requisite temperature and

play26:01

shooting right for around that 900

play26:02

degrees Fahrenheit number

play26:04

to assemble I flattened out the dough

play26:06

into roughly a 10 inch circle before

play26:08

adding the Blended San Marzano Tomatoes

play26:10

some fresh mozzarella cheese and a

play26:12

drizzle of olive oil now I'm normally a

play26:15

toppings guy but I had to keep it simple

play26:16

because this is all about the dough so

play26:19

into the uni each of these pizzas went

play26:21

and I cooked them until I thought they

play26:23

looked good which was some spotting on

play26:25

the bottom and nice Browning on the top

play26:27

as well which took about just 90 to 100

play26:31

seconds each now obviously for this test

play26:33

I couldn't have all the pizzas done at

play26:35

once and do a proper fresh taste test so

play26:37

let me show you some of the shots that

play26:39

came right off the grill first off all

play26:42

of these made pretty darn good looking

play26:44

pizzas to me like you can definitely

play26:47

make great Neapolitan style pizza with

play26:49

any of these flowers but let's take a

play26:52

look at the finer details when it comes

play26:54

to Browning all of them have nice

play26:56

spotting on the bottom crust but again I

play26:59

would say the three hard wheat us

play27:01

varieties have a little bit of a deeper

play27:03

color compared to the soft wheat used in

play27:05

a double zero flower

play27:07

when it comes to the crumb the bread

play27:09

flour was again Crazy Light and Airy

play27:12

compared to the others but this time the

play27:15

unbleached all-purpose was a little bit

play27:17

closer than the double zero and then

play27:19

rounding out the bottom was the bleached

play27:21

all-purpose so you may be wondering is

play27:23

the bread flour still the best one and

play27:26

actually for this test I wasn't really a

play27:28

fan of the super Airy crust in the

play27:31

Neapolitan style pizza because you don't

play27:33

have that contrast with the crunchy

play27:35

crust you get in Detroit style and if I

play27:38

had to pick one of these pizzas to say

play27:41

is the best I would actually say it is

play27:44

the double zero the double zero flower

play27:46

has a tender bite that just suits this

play27:49

style of pizza and additionally it was

play27:51

easier to shape with like I mentioned

play27:53

earlier and it might be due to using

play27:56

soft wheat flour now just because I

play27:58

thought it was the best for this test

play27:59

does that mean I would recommend

play28:01

everyone go out and buy the Italian

play28:03

imported double zero flour no I

play28:06

definitely don't think it's quite worth

play28:07

that high of a price tag it's not that

play28:09

much better than the others and instead

play28:12

I would probably look at some more

play28:14

domestic options because there are some

play28:16

Brands now making double zero flowers

play28:18

with American style Wheats though they

play28:21

definitely do differ for example this

play28:23

brand I found has 11.5 protein compared

play28:26

to the 12.5 percent from the Italian

play28:28

version and then for some reason King

play28:31

Arthur's pizza flour doesn't even list

play28:33

their protein percentage even though

play28:35

they do that on all their other bags and

play28:37

again maybe that's a test for another

play28:39

video so let me know down in the

play28:41

comments below but in conclusion these

play28:44

four flowers were made with varying

play28:45

wheat types varying protein percentages

play28:48

varying Ash content and all did yield

play28:51

different results all were possible in

play28:54

my opinion but the next time I make

play28:56

Detroit style pizza I'll definitely be

play28:58

using bread flour for the stronger

play28:59

gluten Network that yields that

play29:01

cloud-like bite for my next neapolitan

play29:03

pizza I will be using up the rest of my

play29:05

expensive double zero flour but I don't

play29:08

know if I'll actually buy any more

play29:10

anyways I hope you all have enjoyed the

play29:12

video this was a lot of information to

play29:14

go through so if you have more questions

play29:15

let me know down below and like I said

play29:17

if you want some follow-on video topics

play29:19

we can definitely do some but that will

play29:21

wrap it up for me in this one I will

play29:23

catch you all in the next one

play29:25

peace y'all

play29:29

[Music]

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Related Tags
Pizza MakingFlour VarietiesBread FlourAll-PurposeDouble ZeroFood ScienceDough TextureBrowning TestNeapolitan StyleDetroit StyleCulinary Experiment