How to prep for Stain and Finishing Oil

Summary

This video provides a step-by-step guide on how to use a stain and finishing oil for wood, demonstrating its application on both soft and hard woods like pine and oak. The all-in-one product offers coloring and protection without needing an additional topcoat. It explains how different woods absorb the stain differently, making test applications important. Viewers are shown how to properly sand wood, apply the stain evenly, and layer coats for desired protection and sheen. The video emphasizes consistent sanding and pressure to avoid blotchy finishes and offers tips for achieving a durable, glossy result.

Takeaways

• 🎨 The stain and finishing oil is a versatile product that can be used on both soft and hard woods, and even for flooring.
• 🌈 The product comes in five colors, including a natural option without pigment, and can be custom mixed.
• 🔍 It's essential to practice on the same type of wood you plan to use, as different woods absorb pigment differently.
• 🌲 The softness of the wood affects the staining process; softer woods like pine absorb more pigment, while harder woods like oak absorb less.
• 📐 The grain of the wood also plays a role in the final appearance, with woods like oak showing a distinct grain pattern.
• 🕒 Allow the stain and finishing oil to sit for about 10 minutes before wiping off to ensure proper absorption into the wood.
• 🔄 Consistent sanding is crucial for an even finish; start with a coarse grit and work up to a finer one, always sanding with the grain.
• 🚫 Avoid sanding against the grain or using a grit higher than 180, as it can seal the wood and prevent proper stain absorption.
• 🛠️ Apply a generous amount of stain and finishing oil, ensuring it soaks into the wood fibers for at least 10 minutes before wiping off.
• ✨ For increased sheen and protection, additional coats of the natural stain and finishing oil can be applied after the first coat has dried.
• 🛑 Always wipe the stain off with consistent pressure and an applicator that hasn't absorbed stain, to avoid unevenness.

Q & A

What is the primary purpose of the stain and finishing oil mentioned in the script?

The stain and finishing oil serves as an all-in-one product that both colors and protects the wood, eliminating the need for an additional top coat.

How many colors are available for the stain and finishing oil, and what is special about the 'natural' color?

There are five colors available for the stain and finishing oil, including a 'natural' color that does not contain any pigment.

Why is it important to practice on the same type of wood before starting a project?

Different types of wood absorb the stain and finishing oil differently, affecting the final appearance. Practicing ensures that you understand how the wood will react to the product.

What is the difference in appearance between staining pine and oak with the same product?

Pine, being a softer wood, absorbs more pigment, resulting in a darker color. Oak, a harder wood, absorbs less, leading to a lighter appearance.

Why does the script mention allowing the stain and finishing oil to sit for about 10 minutes on the first coat?

This allows the oils and pigments to absorb into the raw wood, ensuring a more consistent and deep penetration of the stain.

What is the recommended method for sanding wood before applying the stain and finishing oil?

Start with a coarse grit (around 100 or 120) and move up to a finer grit, always sanding with the grain of the wood, and ensuring consistent sanding across the entire surface.

How can you achieve a darker look with unpigmented oils, and what should be used for this purpose?

To darken the wood with unpigmented oils, apply odorless mineral spirits to the wood surface, which will evaporate quickly and provide a snapshot of the wood's appearance with the oils applied.

What is the significance of the age of the wood in terms of staining?

Older wood tends to have a darker appearance due to aging or oxidation, which can affect the final color and depth achieved with the stain and finishing oil.

How many coats of the stain and finishing oil are recommended for a durable finish on raw wood?

Two coats are the bare minimum for a durable finish, with three coats recommended for surfaces like floors or tabletops that are frequently washed.

What is the best way to increase the sheen and add more protection to the wood after staining?

Apply additional coats of the natural stain and finishing oil to increase sheen and protection, with each subsequent coat enhancing the sheen further.

Why is it suggested not to use water-based products after applying the stain and finishing oil?

Water-based products could distort the richness of the stain and finishing oil, so it's best to avoid them to maintain the product's effectiveness and appearance.

Outlines

00:00

🛠️ How to Use Stain and Finishing Oil on Wood

This paragraph introduces the Stain and Finishing Oil, explaining that it’s a penetrating stain available in six colors, including a pigment-free natural option. The product is versatile, suitable for both furniture and flooring, and does not require an additional top coat. The paragraph emphasizes the importance of practicing on the same type of wood to be used in the project, as different woods absorb stain differently. It provides an overview of how softer woods like pine absorb more pigment compared to harder woods like oak, and highlights the importance of testing the stain before starting a project.

05:02

🌳 Demonstration of Stain on Different Woods

This paragraph provides a demonstration of how Stain and Finishing Oil behaves on different types of wood, specifically pine and oak. The author pours the stain onto both types of wood and explains that softer woods like pine absorb more stain, resulting in a darker color, while harder woods like oak absorb less. The paragraph underscores the necessity of allowing the stain to sit for 10 minutes to absorb properly, showing the differences in color and grain between the woods. It also advises adding multiple coats to achieve the desired color and sheen, and the importance of consistently sanding the wood to avoid blotchiness.

10:03

🎨 Application Techniques and Sanding Tips

This paragraph dives into the correct application techniques for Stain and Finishing Oil, emphasizing the importance of consistent sanding for an even finish. It describes how sanding against the grain or using different grits in different areas can lead to uneven stain absorption, resulting in blotchy finishes. The paragraph outlines the steps for applying the stain, including the necessity of allowing it to soak into the wood for 10 minutes and then wiping it off with even pressure. It also advises on how to manage areas where the stain is not absorbing evenly, stressing the need for a consistent application process for the best results.

Keywords

💡Stain

Stain refers to a type of finish used to color and protect wood. In the video, the stain is described as a penetrating type that can be applied to both soft and hard woods, and it's available in various colors. The script emphasizes the importance of staining for both aesthetic and protective purposes, as seen in the demonstration with pine and oak woods.

💡Finishing Oil

Finishing oil is a liquid substance used to protect and enhance the appearance of wood surfaces. It is highlighted in the script as an all-in-one product that not only colors the wood but also provides protection, eliminating the need for additional top coats. The oil is shown being applied to wood samples to demonstrate its effects.

💡Penetrating Stain

A penetrating stain is a type of wood stain that soaks into the wood fibers rather than lying on the surface. This is important for the video's theme as it explains how the stain and finishing oil work by penetrating the wood to provide a consistent color and protection, as opposed to just sitting on the surface.

💡Soft Woods

Soft woods are types of wood that are easier to cut and work with due to their lower density. In the script, pine is given as an example of a soft wood, which absorbs more of the stain and finishing oil's pigment, resulting in a darker color compared to harder woods like oak.

💡Hard Woods

Hard woods are denser and more difficult to work with than soft woods. The video script contrasts the staining process on hard woods, such as oak, with that on soft woods, noting that hard woods absorb less pigment and thus require different handling during the staining process.

💡Practice

The script advises practicing the staining process on the same type of wood that will be used for the final project. This is crucial for understanding how the stain and finishing oil will interact with the wood's grain and density, ensuring a consistent and desired outcome.

💡Absorbency Rate

Absorbency rate refers to how much of a liquid a material can take in. The video explains that different types of wood have different absorbency rates, affecting the final color and look of the wood after staining, as demonstrated with the pine and oak samples.

💡Sanding

Sanding is the process of smoothing a surface by rubbing it with sandpaper or a similar material. The script emphasizes the importance of consistent sanding, starting with a coarse grit and moving to finer grits, to prepare the wood for staining and ensure an even finish.

💡Grain

Grain in wood refers to the direction of the wood fibers. The script mentions that sanding with the grain is essential to avoid blotchy areas and achieve a smooth finish. The grain's visibility also contributes to the wood's appearance after staining.

💡Sheen

Sheen describes the level of gloss or shine on a surface. The video script explains that by adding more coats of the natural stain and finishing oil, the sheen can be increased, providing a higher gloss finish on the wood.

💡Odourless Mineral Spirits

Odourless mineral spirits are a type of solvent used in wood finishing to adjust the color and appearance of oils. The script mentions using them to darken unpigmented oils, providing an example of how the final wood color can be customized.

💡Consistency

Consistency in this context refers to the uniform application and preparation of the wood surface before staining. The script stresses the importance of consistent sanding pressure and levels to avoid blotchy or uneven staining results.

Highlights

Introduction to a stain and finishing oil product for wood that serves as both a colorant and a protector.

Availability of the stain in five colors, including a natural option without pigment.

The product can be used on both soft and hard woods and is also suitable for flooring.

Custom mixing of the stain colors to meet specific project needs.

Necessity to practice staining on the same type of wood to understand color absorption differences.

Demonstration of how softwoods like pine absorb more pigment compared to hardwoods like oak.

The importance of allowing the stain to sit for about 10 minutes before wiping off for the first coat.

Visual comparison of stain absorption on raw wood versus aged wood.

Technique for applying the stain and finishing oil evenly over the wood surface.

The significance of sanding consistency to avoid blotchy staining results.

Step-by-step guide on sanding wood from coarse to fine grit to prepare for staining.

Demonstration of the difference in stain absorption based on sanding technique.

Instructions on how to apply a liberal amount of stain and allow it to soak for 10 minutes.

Technique for wiping back excess stain with consistent pressure and motion.

The effect of sanding against the grain on stain absorption and appearance.

How to achieve different levels of sheen by adding layers of the natural stain and finishing oil.

Recommendation of a minimum of two coats for a durable finish, with three coats suggested for high-traffic areas.

Advice against using water-based products on top of the stain and finishing oil to maintain richness.

Invitation for viewers to leave comments or questions for further engagement.

Transcripts

are you looking to stain your wood

furniture we're going to show you how to

use our gorgeous stain and finishing oil

which is a penetrating stain we have it

in five gorgeous colors including our

natural that doesn't contain any pigment

we're going to do a step by step on how

to use it on soft Woods hard woods and

what you need to do to get the surface

ready my favorite part about the stain

and finishing oil is it is an all in one

it colors your wood and it also protects

your wood there is no additional top

coat required with this in fact you can

use it not only for your furniture but

for flooring as well we have it

available in six different colors and

they can also be custom

mixed it's important to note that with

our stain and finishing oil you do need

to practice on the exact type of wood

that you're going to be using because

different Woods will look

completely different so for instance if

you are doing a tabletop and you have an

inconspicuous spot on the underside give

it a practice there or if you're doing a

brand new project have a spare piece cut

off and then you can practice on that so

why is the stain and finishing oil going

to look different on different types of

woods and that is due to the softness of

the wood for instance the pine which is

very soft is going to absorb a lot of

the pigment the harder wood Woods such

as Oak won't absorb nearly as much and

also you'll find differencing in the

grain of the wood you can see how Oak

has this lovely grain and pine not so

much so that's how your main differences

are going to be seen let's do a quick

demonstration right now we've got this

soft Pine here and we've got this harder

oak it will look completely different

due to the things that we talked about

okay and pour some onto the oak just two

little spots here I always allow the

stain and finishing oil to sit for about

10 minutes especially on the very first

coat this is because the oils and the

pigments are going to be absorbing into

this raw

wood but just for camera's sake we're

going to remove the excess right now and

you'll be able to see the color

difference you can see how the

oak is very different than the softer

Pine so you can see the color difference

is simply due to the different types of

woods this is a harder oak this is a

soft Pine and you just get a different

absorbency rate so definitely do a

practice prior to embarking on your

project working with your sample taking

a look at it say you want to have it a

little bit darker this is showing what

two coats of the stain and finishing oil

looks like on Oak but perhaps you're

happy with this color depth this is

showing one coat and then you just want

to add more protection increase the

sheen just add a coat of your natural

stain and finishing oil again you want

to allow it to penetrate sit on the wood

for about 10 minutes prior to buffing it

off to see what your wood project looks

like with any of these unpigmented oils

applied simply add some odorless mineral

spirits right onto the wood surface and

it's going to darken

woohoo it evaporates pretty quickly but

that gives you a snapshot of what your

wood will look like with these oils

applied notice how this new Pine looks

almost white and this has a bit more of

an orange Hue and that's because of the

age this Pine has already been out and

about and has had a chance to age or

oxidize showing Pine here the older the

wood the darker it looks you have a raw

wood project and you need to prep it for

stain and finishing o oil the best thing

to do is to make sure that it is

consistently sanded you always want to

start with a coarse grit say around 100

120 and then move up to a more fine grit

always sanding with the grain of the

wood if it's super rough you could go

down to an 80 grit but always go from

lower to higher and make sure you sand

it twice at each level So to avoid any

blotchiness in your stained finish you

want to ensure that it is consistently

sanded on all areas and what I'm going

to be doing here is just a little

demonstration of what it looks like on

wood when you apply the stain and

finishing oil on an area where the

sanding was against the grain and a

little bit too rough again this is a

more rough sanding and against the grain

compared to an even sanding preparation

on this side anyhow as you are applying

your stain evenly over your wood surface

allow it a good 10 minutes to soak in so

this is a raw

project that you have prepped with your

your sanding paper again we want to

start with a 100 or 120 go to a 150 and

end off with a 180 at the finest if you

go higher than that you're going to seal

up your wood and it won't be able to to

accept much of the stain and finishing

oil applying on our sample board the

stain and finishing oil I'm applying a

liberal amount allowing it to soak in

for a good 10 minutes you really want it

to saturate all the wood fibers if

you're getting a little bit light on

your application of the staining

finishing oil it's not going to get a

chance to soak in deep into those wood

fibers so really slap on use a lot and

allow it to sit on there for a good 10

minutes any areas where you see it's

kind of absorbing right away come along

and push some more product into those

areas we have a lot of product sitting

on here it's been about 10 minutes now

comes the part where I'm going to wipe

it back it's very important that you

remove it with the same amount of

pressure and the same type of applicator

absorbance see so starting using our

applicator pad from one end to the other

with along the

grain there we go that is looking

gorgeous so far I can use another pass I

can use this for another pass right now

if it was totally saturated with product

I

wouldn't see what that looks

like okay now I'm going to flip it over

a little bit of pressure too much there

I'm just going to go back and hit it

again okay so here we go again left to

right using the same amount of

pressure now I am going to be turning

this over I took off a little bit more

stain there than here that's because

this is becoming a little bit too

saturated so starting off with the new

side

there we

go same amount of pressure and if you

find that your applicator is still

getting a little too like depositing too

much stain try and get an area of the

applicator that hasn't soaked any of the

stain up

yet there we go oo okay I can really see

this spot here where I sand Ed Against

the

Grain it's a considerable difference let

me just show that to the camera so you

can see how it was sanded a little bit

more vigorously here and it almost seems

as

though this area was rougher and this

one I sanded a bit smoother so it didn't

pick up the stain as much and that's

what you're going to see all these

blotchy areas if for instance you use

use a 180 grit uh in only certain areas

of your tabletop for instance so that's

why it is so important to be completely

consistent with your pressure and with

your sanding levels so you want to make

sure the whole tabl toop has been sanded

with the 120 again the whole tabletop

with the 150 consistently back and forth

with the grain never higher than a 180

one coat of the stain and finishing oil

in cappuccino on this o and it looks

gorgeous I don't want it any darker but

I know once it's dyed tomorrow that I'm

going to want to increase the sheen

simply done by adding on a layer or two

of the natural in the stain and

finishing oil you'll see that your very

first application like the cappuccino of

the stain finishing oil you're going to

go through a considerable amount because

it's really soaking into the wood fibers

here but when you come along to up your

Sheen and add more protection with the

natural you're going to go through very

little maybe about a third of what you

used to stain it originally and you

don't have to stop with just one coat of

the natural you can layer it so every

subsequent coat that you put on you'll

get higher Sheen in fact I've gotten a

semigloss with only three coats of the

stain and finishing oil on Hardwoods

such as Oak if you feel you need even

more protection just put put on another

layer of the natural SFO never come

along with something say is a waterbased

because it's going to distort the

richness that you get with this

particular stain and finishing oil on

raw wood two coats is the bare minimum

of product that you would need to give

you that super durable finish three

coats if it's something like a floor or

a table top that's washed daily rest

assured you don't need any other top

coat on this particular product please

write any comments below or questions

and I hope you have found this helpful

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