Toyota 2JZ Engine Build - Full Start to Finish

Summary

In this video, Stephan Papadakis from Papadakis Racing walks viewers through the meticulous assembly of a legendary 2JZ engine. The script details the process of preparing the engine block, measuring pistons, checking clearances, and installing components with precision. It also covers painting the block, assembling the pistons and rods, and installing the crankshaft with care. The video is a comprehensive guide for those interested in engine building, showcasing the importance of attention to detail and the correct torque specifications for each part.

Takeaways

• 🔧 The script describes an engine assembly process for a 2JZ engine at Papadakis racing.
• 🏗️ The engine block has been modified with a bore size of 86.25mm and has been decked and hot-tanked for cleaning.
• 📏活塞测量是重要的步骤，以确保活塞和缸壁之间有正确的间隙。
• 🛠️活塞销是自由浮动的，可以在活塞和连杆上旋转，有助于减少磨损。
• 🔩活塞和连杆的组装需要使用组装润滑剂，并确保活塞环间隙正确。
• 🎨发动机组装过程中包括对发动机块进行涂漆，以防止生锈并提供保护。
• 🔄活塞环的安装需要精确的间隙调整，以确保正确的密封和发动机性能。
• ⚙️曲轴和轴承的安装需要精确的扭矩，以确保发动机的稳定性和耐用性。
• 🚫在安装气缸头之前，需要特别注意不要在安装了头螺栓的情况下将垫圈放在头上。
• ⚙️气缸头螺栓需要按照特定的扭矩规格进行拧紧，以确保气缸头的正确密封。
• 📈该脚本还提到了对气缸头进行端口加工以改善气流，以及使用CNC机器进行阀门切割以提高精度。

Q & A

What is the purpose of the project described in the script?

The purpose of the project is to assemble a legendary hood with a 2JZ engine for a car at Papadakis racing shop.

What modifications have been made to the engine block?

The engine block has been bored out to 86.25 millimeters, decked (resurfaced the top), and hot tanked (cleaned the outside).

Why is the block being painted after the initial assembly?

The block is being painted to prevent rust after the hot tanking process removed the original paint.

How are the pistons being measured in the script?

The pistons are being measured to ensure they have the proper size and wall clearance in relation to the cylinder bores.

What is the function of the free-floating pins mentioned in the script?

Free-floating pins allow the connecting pin to rotate on both the piston and the connecting rod, which helps reduce wear.

Why are the pistons coated on the top and sides?

The coating on the top helps with temperature control, while the coating on the sides helps reduce cylinder wear.

What is the purpose of the ring gap adjustments described in the script?

The ring gaps are adjusted to ensure a very specific gap between the rings, which is crucial for proper sealing and engine performance.

Why are the thrust bearings important when installing the crankshaft?

Thrust bearings are important because they handle the force when the clutch is engaged, preventing damage to the crankshaft.

What is the significance of the oil squirters installed in the engine?

Oil squirters help cool the pistons and lubricate the piston pin and cylinder walls, which is essential for engine longevity.

How is the cylinder head prepared in this script?

The cylinder head is hot tanked, ported (pocket port), and resurfaced to ensure optimal airflow and readiness for installation.

What is the role of the valve spring compressor used in the script?

The valve spring compressor is used to compress the valve spring assembly, allowing for the installation of the keepers and valve spring retainer.

Outlines

00:00

🔧 Engine Assembly Preparation

The script describes the process of assembling a legendary hood with a 2JZ engine at Papadakis Racing. The engine is an inline six, bored out to 86.25mm and decked for resurfacing. It's been hot-tanked to clean it, resulting in some rust which will be painted over later. The script details measuring pistons for clearance checks, installing pistons onto rods with assembly lube, and checking rod and main bearing clearances. The活塞s are coated to reduce temperature and cylinder wear. The block is painted black after taping off areas not to be painted.

05:02

🛠 Installing Pistons and Rings

This section covers the installation of piston rings, ensuring the correct gap sizes by using a feeler gauge. The rings are ground if necessary and installed with specific orientation markers. The活塞s and rods are then installed into the engine block with attention to ring alignment and proper seating. Oil squirters and thrust bearings are also installed, with the crankshaft being carefully placed into position. The script emphasizes the importance of checking for smooth rotation and correct installation to avoid engine issues.

10:03

🏎️ Cylinder Head and Valve Train Assembly

The script explains the preparation of the cylinder head by Port Flow, including hot-tank cleaning, pocket porting, and resurfacing. A CNC valve cutting machine is used for precise valve seat cuts. The valve train components such as dual valve springs, titanium retainers, and CNC keepers are assembled with valve seals to prevent oil leakage. The cylinder head is aligned using dowels, and a factory Toyota MLS head gasket is installed. Camshafts are installed with attention to orientation, and cam caps are torqued carefully to avoid damaging the cams. The oil pump, front and rear main seals, and upper oil pan are also installed with silicone for sealing.

🔩 Final Assembly and Cam Timing

This part of the script details the installation of the oil level sensor, exhaust and intake cam gears, and the variable cam timing system. The tensioner pulley and timing belt are installed with precise alignment. The script also covers the installation of valve covers, knock sensors, cam sync sensor, and the crank damper. Special care is taken with the crank pulley installation to avoid damaging the threads inside the crank. The video concludes with a call to subscribe for more content.

Keywords

💡Papadakis Racing

Papadakis Racing is the shop where the video's host, Stephan Papadakis, is assembling the engine. It's the setting for the video and the place where the project is being carried out. The shop is likely a hub for automotive performance and engine building, as indicated by the detailed assembly process being discussed.

💡2JZ engine

The 2JZ engine is a legendary inline-six engine from Toyota, known for its durability and potential for high horsepower. In the video, Stephan is assembling this engine for a project, emphasizing its significance in the automotive performance world and the focus of the video's content.

💡Bored out

Boring out an engine refers to enlarging the cylinder bores to increase the engine's displacement. In the script, the engine block has been bored out to 86.25 millimeters, which is larger than the factory size, indicating a modification for potentially greater power.

💡Decking

Decking is the process of resurfacing the top of an engine block to ensure it is flat and even. The script mentions that the engine block has been decked, which is a necessary step for preparing the block for assembly and ensuring proper sealing and performance.

💡Hot tanking

Hot tanking is a cleaning process that involves immersing parts in a heated tank to remove dirt and old paint. The script describes the engine block being hot tanked, which results in a clean surface but also some rust, necessitating painting later in the video.

💡Pistons

Pistons are components that move within the cylinders of an engine, converting the linear motion into rotational motion. The script discusses measuring the pistons to ensure proper fit and clearance, which is critical for engine performance and longevity.

💡Rod bearing clearances

Rod bearing clearances refer to the space between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft. The script mentions checking these clearances, which is important for ensuring proper lubrication and preventing engine damage.

💡Assembly Lube

Assembly lube is a lubricant applied to engine components during assembly to reduce friction and protect parts. The script describes using assembly lube on the pistons and rods, which is essential for smooth operation and reducing wear during the initial engine break-in period.

💡Free-floating pins

Free-floating pins are used in connecting rods to allow the piston pin to rotate freely. The script mentions installing these pins, which helps reduce stress on the piston and rod, contributing to the engine's durability.

💡Ring gap

The ring gap is the space between the ends of the piston rings. The script discusses checking and adjusting the ring gap, which is crucial for proper sealing, oil control, and preventing engine damage due to excessive pressure or blow-by.

💡Crankshaft

The crankshaft is a central component of the engine that converts the linear motion of the pistons into rotational motion. The script describes installing the crankshaft, which is a critical step in assembling the engine and ensuring its mechanical integrity.

💡Torque

Torque is the force used to tighten or loosen a fastener. The script frequently mentions torquing bolts to specific values, which is essential for ensuring that all engine components are securely fastened and will not fail under stress.

Highlights

Introduction to assembling a legendary hood with a 2JZ engine.

The engine block has been bored out to 86.25mm, larger than factory specifications.

The block has been decked and hot tanked for cleaning.

Plans to paint the block to prevent rust.

Measuring pistons for proper fit and clearance.

Use of assembly lube for piston and rod installation.

Free-floating pins allow rotation on the piston and rod.

Coating on pistons aids in temperature control and reduces cylinder wear.

Proper installation of pistons on rods is crucial.

Checking and adjusting ring gaps for optimal performance.

Installing rings on pistons with specific installation techniques for different materials.

Marking pistons for correct installation direction in the block.

Installing crankshaft with attention to main bearing clearances.

Use of oil squirters for cooling and lubrication.

Installation of thrust bearings for clutch disengagement.

Torque specifications for main cap bearings and their importance.

Piston installation with attention to ring gap alignment.

Cylinder head work done by Port Flow, including pocket porting.

CNC valve cutting machine used for precise valve seat cuts.

Installing valve train components with precision and care.

Use of valve spring compressor for safe installation.

Installing dowels to align the cylinder head with the block.

Use of factory Toyota MLS head gasket for reliability.

Torque sequence for head studs to ensure even pressure.

Camshaft installation with attention to orientation and torque.

Oil pump installation and its role in engine lubrication.

Upper oil pan installation with silicone for sealing.

Oil strainer and level sensor installation for oil management.

Cam gear installation with specific torque and alignment.

Variable cam timing system explanation and its benefits for drifting.

Installation of valve covers with wrinkle red powder coating.

Use of silicone to prevent oil leaks at cam caps.

Installation of crank damper with anti-seize for smooth operation.

Final torque on crank pulley and completion of engine assembly.

Transcripts

hey I'm Stephan Papadakis we're here at

Papadakis racing today we're gonna

assemble the legendary hood a 2jz engine

it's an inline six this is for a project

that we're doing here at the shop if you

want to see the disassembly of this

engine or some of the main bearing

clearances checks that we did I'll link

to the video below in the description so

let's get started and get this thing

together so here's the block so it's

been bored out to eighty six point two

five millimeters put two five

millimetres larger than factory it's

been decked which means they resurfaced

the top of it and it's been hot tanks so

they put in this tank and it cleans all

of the dirt and everything off of the

outside of it but it also takes the

original paint off of it so you can see

it's a little bit rusty we're gonna

paint it a little bit later in the video

so here we are we're measuring the

Pistons so now what I'm doing is I'm I'm

double-checking the machine shop in

order to do that I've got to measure

each one of the Pistons make sure

they're all what they're supposed to be

then measure all of the bores and make

sure that we have the proper piston of

wall clearance and that's the clearance

in between the piston and the cylinder

wall also gonna check all of the rod

bearing and main bearing clearances time

to install the Pistons onto the rods so

use this assembly Lube and get

everything all lubricated these are what

they call free-floating pins these

little clips hold them in you install it

on the piston and the rod and the pin is

actually able to rotate both on the

piston and the rod what's cool about

these jé Pistons is they're both coated

on the top and the sides the coating on

the top helps with temperature and the

one on the side on the skirts helps with

cylinder wear so you have to make sure

that the piston is installed on the rod

properly so what I'm doing is I'm

looking at where the valve reliefs are

on the top of the piston the intake

valve release are a little bit larger

than exhaust ones now that everything is

blueprinted and we know that the block

is good ready to be assembled I'm gonna

go and paint it so there's tape off all

the parts that I don't want painted and

get out there with some engine enamel

we're gonna stick with normal black this

time now it's time to make sure all the

gaps in the Rings are correct what

happens is with a slight bore diameter

change it can change the gap in the ring

and we want a very specific gap so what

I'll do is put the ring into the

cylinder square it up in the cylinder by

just putting a piston in it and then use

a feeler gauge to see if the gap is the

correct width so these are a little bit

narrow so I'm gonna put them in the ring

grinder and actually grind at the end of

the ring so when it grinds the end of

the wing it's taking some of the

material off and when you do that you

just have to make sure that you don't

have any burrs or anything

on the edges that could potentially

scrape the cylinder wall or not allowed

the ring to seat properly once the Rings

are all gapped it's time to install them

onto the Pistons the first one is the

oil spring so that is like a spring that

pushes out the oil rings the next is the

second ring this one is usually a cast

material that's a little bit more

brittle so I'll install that a little

bit differently by expanding it instead

of twisting it the cast rings don't like

to be twisted and could actually crack

the top ring can be twisted on there's

also little letters on these specific

rings that show which is up these have a

little n on them so I'll go ahead and

twist that on and then do it to the rest

of the other six distance I also like to

number all of my pistons and which

direction they're gonna be installed

into the block I really like to double

and triple check everything in an engine

now the Pistons of rods are ready to go

in so I'm gonna flip the engine over and

put the crankshaft in we've already

checked all of the main bearing

clearances and make sure everything's

super clean and we'll go ahead and

install all the bearings next before I

put the crankshaft in we're gonna put

the oil squirters in pretty

straightforward they just bolt right in

these are really good because they help

to cool the piston they also lubricate

the piston pin and the cylinder walls

these are called the thrust bearings

basically when you push in your clutch

to disengage it it pushes up on this

bearing right here the thrust bearings

I'm actually gonna lube both sides of it

that way it's really tacky and sticks

into the block and doesn't want to fall

out when I go to put the crankshaft in

so very carefully go ahead and set the

crankshaft in this is just a factory 2jz

crankshaft they're forged they're really

good they're quite strong in very common

people will make a thousand horsepower

when these stock cranks go ahead and put

assembly Lube on all over the main cap

bearings and these are all numbered one

through seven and they also have an

arrow for which was forward on the

engine forward on the engine is where

the pulley is and all the drive belts so

all of the arrows point towards the

crankshaft snout and where all the

pulleys would go so go ahead and SAP all

those in with the gun and then I'm gonna

torque them up to the 33 foot-pounds

that the factory recommends and then

they also say do an additional 90

degrees so what I'll do is draw a line

at 12 o'clock and I'll turn everything

90 degrees basically to three o'clock

and that'll get us right into spec and

then once everything's bolted in I like

to make sure that everything turns

freely and there's no issues there so

now it's time to install the Pistons the

cylinder walls are all nice and clean at

first and then we're gonna put the

piston ring loop on him I'm also gonna

put some of this piston ring lube on the

skirts of the Pistons and the Rings next

I'm going to align all

of the piston rings because the gaps

need to go in specific angles and again

this is gonna vary depending on the

engine manufacturer and even the engine

builder on how they like to do it I

always like to hold the piston with the

exhaust valves pointing towards me and

that way it can be consistent on each

one of the Pistons when I align the

Rings so this is the piston installation

tool and I'm also gonna lubricate that

as well because the Rings have to slide

down it I'll double check the ring

lineman again and now we're ready to put

it in the crankshaft is at bottom dead

center which means the crankshaft pin or

journal is all the way at the bottom

that gives you the most room to make

sure you don't push the rod into the

main journal so these rods are from BC

and it's their standard h-beam rod which

is gonna work great for our application

and they had them in stock which is

great because this is such a short time

between the time that we got the engine

to the build we really wanted to use

parts that were in stock and not have to

custom order so we'll go ahead and

install the rest of the Pistons and

we'll be done with this part of it so

once I saw the piston they should be

pretty consistent as far as the tension

it takes to push them down if for some

reason they're a little bit different

that could be a sign of an issue and

then also make sure that you look at the

cylinder walls and make sure there's no

scoring or anything that happened on the

installation because that'll show that

maybe you had an issue with your ring

gap or something like that so now turn

the crankshaft and make sure everything

spins smoothly next is time for the

cylinder head the cylinder head was done

by our buddy tom at Port flow he took

the dirty head hot tanked it cleaned it

way up he did what they call like a

pocket port or like a bowl port and it's

the area where the valve seat meets the

casting in the head and a lot of time

the factories don't do a very good job

of matching it and having a good flow in

that section and doing a full port in

Polish I don't believe it's necessary on

these heads for the power levels that

we're gonna be making this is what they

call a cnc valve cutting machine you can

actually program and how you want the

valve seat cut and then it goes in there

and cuts it all perfect tom then

resurfaced the cylinder head and got it

all ready for installation here's a

quick picture of you can see the pocket

port and you can see where the valve

seat meets the inside casting is nice

and smooth and that's where he ported it

here's all of our super tech stuff so

this is the valve train that we're gonna

install into the cylinder head dual

valve springs titanium retainers CNC

keepers in canal exhaust valves and

stainless steel intakes Tom will go

ahead and put some grease on the valves

when he installs them will then install

the spring base the locator the locator

keeps the spring centered within the

spring locator key

the Spring Center the dual valve spring

is then installed and down in there you

can even see the valve seal so the valve

stem seal is what stops the oil in the

cylinder head from going down the shaft

of the valve the stem of the valve and

into the cylinders or into the port this

is what they call a valve spring

compressor so the valve spring

compressor reaches around it pushes on

the bottom of the valve and the top of

the valve spring retainer once it

compresses it you can go ahead and put

the keepers on once the keepers are both

installed you can remove the spring

compressor and now now the valve spring

and everything is all installed now

we're gonna install the dowels into the

block this is what aligns the cylinder

head on to the block and keeps the

gasket and everything in line I don't

like to hammer directly onto the dowel

cuz it can bend it so I made this little

tool out of just just a bolt in a nut

that stays on the dowel and then I can

hammer the bolt that way it doesn't

mushroom the dowel pin at all so here's

the head gasket it's actually a factory

Toyota MLS casket it's called a

multi-layer steel and these are really

good gaskets from the factory so we're

gonna go ahead and just get a brand new

one and use it in this build next we

gonna put the cylinder head on and one

of the things that's funky about

assembling these two J engines is you

actually can't put these washers on the

head with the head studs installed so

you have to put the washers in first

then you put the head studs on then you

can put the nuts and everything in so

I've pre-lubricated the washers and the

head studs and then once we put the nuts

on we're ready to tighten and get our

big torque wrench because we have to

torque this up to 85 foot pounds and

I'll do in a couple of stages here so

I'll start by doing 30 foot-pounds then

go up to 60 then 85 foot-pounds

these are BC to 64 degree cams and it's

relatively mild cam and for this drift

car this is probably the best one for it

little pro tip here if you grease the

inside of your cam seals front and

remain seals they tend to seal up and

last a little bit longer in my

experience I'll then put all the cam

caps on and install the camp seals

there's a little bit of silicone you see

there that goes under that cam cap I'll

just zap these bolts in a little bit you

get to be super careful you install the

cam caps because if you don't have the

cams and the right orientation and you

start tightening the cam caps in the

wrong order you can actually break a cam

so have to be really careful and follow

the instructions on the order to put the

cam caps in then we'll go ahead and

torque all of the cam caps now I've got

a cams installed

nice gonna put the oil pump on there's

just some silicone and a couple of

o-rings I've already changed the front

main seal this is our new rear main seal

there's some silicone on that as well

op the reach in which kind of a pain and

get these six bolts next we're gonna put

on the upper oil pan so this one's

really cool because it ties in the whole

block and it's actually a bit of a

stiffener for it as well

there's no gaskets down here just

silicone so put the silicone in zap in

all the bolts and then torque it down to

Toyota's recommendation so what they

call an oil baffle and it helps to

separate the spinning crankshaft from

the oil that's in the pan this is the

oil strainer or the oil pickup this is

where the oil gets picked up from inside

the oil pan and sucked through and into

the oil pump so now you can see the

stuff that goes on inside of your oil

pan so if you ever have an oil pan that

you hit something like something on the

road and it dent it up it can hit the

bottom of this oil strainer and that's

how you can have a problem with your

engine after because strainer can't

actually pick up the oil from the pan

anymore this is the oil level sensor

it's got a little float there and it

just throws a warning light on if the

oil level gets too low this is where I

tend to be a lot more generous with the

silicone is on the the steel pans I'm

gonna make sure that these suckers don't

leak so I'll put a little bit extra

silicone and then we'll put all the

bolts in and then torque it and you'll

see I'm using the torque wrench a lot

here and the reason is it's so easy to

over tighten something even after years

of experience I believe that using the

torque wrench doesn't take that much

more time and you can get everything

torqued perfect and once it's worked

perfect then you could be confident that

it's not gonna fall out we'll go ahead

and put the exhaust cam gear on torque

that on and this is the intake cam gear

this is where the variable cam timing

works and inside of that gear there's

some mechanics that depending on the

amount of oil pressure from the solenoid

it'll actually adjust the cam timing on

the intake we really do want this they

can help as much as like 60 or 80

foot-pounds of torque at low rpm and for

a drifting car where you can be at low

rpm a lot the vvt-i engines are quite

good for that application if you're

doing drag racing or something where

you're really spending all your time

over five or six thousand rpm where the

vvt-i is pretty much back to zero it's

not gonna be much of a benefit if any a

little bit of blue loctite will install

the tensioner pulley again torquing it

on and now we're gonna install the

timing belt and the timing belt has a

very specific alignment so on the lower

gear there's an alignment mark on the

gear and then

also on each one of the cam gears so

we'll line each one of those and then we

can put the timing belt on last we're

gonna put the timing tensioner in next

we install the timing belt tensioner

what it does is actually puts tension on

the timing belt and before I pull the

pin and actually put tension on the belt

I'm gonna turn it to revolutions and

make sure that everything is still lined

up properly and once I know it's all

lined up perfect I'll pull the pin and

allow the tensioner to tension the belt

I'll then turn it again and triple check

that the belt is aligned properly once I

know it's all perfect we're gonna move

on to the next step so this is the

oiling for the variable cam this pulls

oil from the block down there and it

goes up into that cam cap and from the

cam cap it goes with the variable cam

solenoid the way the variable cam works

is the computer sends out power to this

little solenoid which then duty cycles a

certain amount of oil into that cam gear

and depending on that duty cycle it can

actually change the location of that cam

gear relative to the cam and by doing so

it can change the location of the cam

relative to the crankshaft essentially

changing the cam timing next we'll put

on the valve covers I've had these

powder coated wrinkle read and for years

I thought it was originated by Honda on

the type our engines and then recently

I've realized that that's absolutely not

the case

Ferraris been doing wrinkle read valve

covers since the 50s and it turns out

that Testarossa actually means redhead

and Ferrari has wrinkled red valve

covers for 50 60 years now and

everybody's been I think biting them so

I've added a little bit of silicone on

the corners of the cam caps and this is

an area where the oil can often leak so

a little bit of silicone there can make

sure that you don't have a leak in that

section you can also see where we added

the aan fittings to the valve covers for

the crankcase breathing system we're

actually going to utilize both of the

knock sensors on the engine and this is

another area yet to watch out for

so I've masked off that area when I

painted the block because I want to make

sure that the knock sensor is directly

on the actual metal block and making

sure that we torque it because depending

on the torque the knock sensor will

actually output a different strength

signal next we've got the cam sync

sensor so this sensor tells the computer

where that intake cam is relation to the

crankshaft so now we're putting the

timing covers on it's a bit hacked up to

fit the different water port that we've

got on here this car instead of having

normal mechanical driven water pump it's

got an electric water pump and it's got

- 20 fittings for both over the lines

here's the crank damper so I'll go ahead

and put some anti-seize on the inside of

the crank pulley and then install it on

to the crank chef snout and it didn't

quite just push on that easy and look

you can use the pulley bolt to push on

your crank pulley but only if it's

really easy to go on like this is super

easy and didn't have much resistance at

all but if you do have some resistance

you'll want to use a specific

installation tool because if you put too

much force on this pulley bolt you can

mess up the threads inside the crank and

you're gonna have a real bad day if you

mess up the threads the torque on this

pulley ball is actually 239 foot-pounds

it's really crazy high it pretty much

maxes out the torque wrench in order to

get that much torque I've got to lock

the crank from turning so what I've done

is I've put a couple of flywheel bolts

into the back of the crank shaft and

wedged a pry bar in there so the crank

shaft can't turn so thanks for watching

I had a lot of fun building the 2jz if

you want to see more of this content

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