How to Replace Fuel Pump & Sending Unit Assembly 2000-2005 Buick LeSabre

Summary

This instructional video walks viewers through the step-by-step process of replacing a vehicle's fuel pump. Starting by removing the engine cover, disconnecting the battery, and accessing the fuel pump via the trunk, the guide carefully explains each step, including removing and inspecting components like the Schrader valve, fuel lines, and electrical connectors. The video emphasizes safety precautions, such as avoiding sparks around fuel, and concludes with reinstalling the fuel pump, securing the battery, and ensuring proper function through a road test.

Takeaways

• 🔧 Remove the oil fill neck by turning it counterclockwise and lift the engine cover to access the fuel rail.
• ⚙️ The fuel rail has a black cap covering a Schrader valve, which should be removed carefully to release fuel pressure while using protective gear.
• 🧰 After releasing fuel pressure, replace the cap, reattach the engine cover, and proceed to disconnect the negative battery terminal using an 8mm socket.
• 🚗 Access the fuel pump by removing the back seat and exposing the trap door in the trunk. Use a 9/32 socket to remove the bolts.
• 🧼 Clean the area around the fuel pump and remove electrical connectors. Inspect connectors for corrosion and disconnect the fuel lines by squeezing the white plastic tabs.
• 🛠️ Use a brass punch and hammer to carefully remove the fuel pump locking ring. Avoid sparks near fuel vapors for safety.
• ⛽ Remove the fuel sending unit carefully, ensuring the strainer and float are clear. Replace the old gasket with a new one.
• 📏 Reassemble the new fuel sending unit, ensuring the float is properly attached. Insert the new seal and lock the unit in place.
• 🔌 Reconnect electrical components, ensuring wires are properly connected according to color codes. Insulate connections with tape to prevent moisture.
• 🛑 After reassembling the unit, reconnect the battery and road test the vehicle to ensure no fuel leaks or check engine lights appear.

Q & A

What is the first step in removing the engine cover?

The first step is to remove the oil fill neck by turning it counterclockwise and then lifting the engine cover straight up and pulling it towards the front.

Why is it important to wear eye protection and have a clean rag when working with the Schrader valve?

Pressing the center of the Schrader valve releases fuel pressure, which can spray out. Eye protection prevents fuel from getting into your eyes, and the rag helps catch the fuel to avoid spills on the engine.

What tool is needed to disconnect the negative battery terminal?

An 8mm socket or wrench is needed to disconnect the negative battery terminal.

What must be done before removing the fuel pump assembly?

Before removing the fuel pump assembly, you must remove five bolts using a 9/32-inch socket, blow the area clean of debris, and disconnect the electrical connectors and fuel lines.

Why is it necessary to use a brass punch instead of a steel punch when removing the locking ring?

A brass punch is used instead of a steel punch to avoid creating sparks, which could ignite fuel vapors and cause an explosion.

What is the importance of the float in the fuel sending unit?

The float is essential for measuring the fuel level in the tank. If it is not positioned correctly during reassembly, the fuel gauge may not function properly.

What should be inspected after removing the fuel pump gasket?

After removing the fuel pump gasket, inspect the area for rust or debris, especially where the new gasket will sit, to ensure it is free from contamination that could compromise the seal.

How are the fuel lines reconnected after replacing the fuel pump?

The fuel lines are reconnected by lining up the white adapters with the tabs on each side and pressing them onto the fuel lines until they click securely into place.

What is the correct order for connecting the wiring harness for the new fuel pump?

The wiring harness should be connected in this order: the black wire with the stripe to the top black wire, the gray wire to the gray wire, the purple to the purple wire, and the solid black to the last black wire at the bottom of the harness.

What should you do after completing the fuel pump installation?

After completing the installation, test the car by driving it and checking for fuel smells or a check engine light to ensure everything is working properly.

Outlines

00:00

🔧 Engine and Fuel System Inspection

The script begins with a step-by-step guide to accessing the engine's fuel system. The first task is to remove the oil fill neck cover by turning it counterclockwise. After inspection, it's set aside. The engine cover is then lifted and removed, revealing the fuel rail. Attention is drawn to a black cap which, when removed, exposes a Schrader valve that releases fuel pressure. It's crucial to have a clean rag and eye protection when pressing the valve to release fuel. After cleaning the area, the cap and engine cover are replaced. The script then moves to the passenger compartment where the negative battery terminal is disconnected for safety. Access to the fuel pump area is gained through a trap door in the trunk, and five bolts are removed to clear the way. The area is cleaned, and electrical connectors are carefully disconnected, checking for corrosion. Fuel lines are then released from their holders, and the script ends with the application of penetrant to the locking ring of the fuel pump, preparing it for removal.

05:01

🛠 Removal and Replacement of Fuel Pump

This section details the removal of the fuel pump from the vehicle. It involves pushing off the fuel lines, lifting the pump out, and being cautious of any remaining fuel. The strainer and level are carefully removed to prevent any obstructions. The old pump is then placed in a collection receptacle. The script emphasizes checking for a new gasket, cleaning the area thoroughly to remove rust and debris, and preparing the new fuel sending unit by attaching a float leveler. A seal is placed in the groove of the new unit, and the new fuel assembly is positioned, ensuring the strainer sits flat. The locking ring is then placed over the assembly, and the fuel lines are connected, with care taken to match the correct lines due to their differing sizes. The locking ring is secured with a brass punch and hammer to avoid sparks. Finally, the script advises double-checking the locking ring's security to prevent fuel vapor leaks.

10:01

🔌 Wiring and Connector Management

The script now focuses on the wiring and connectors related to the fuel system. It describes how to identify and connect the wiring harnesses, ensuring they are in the correct order and using the appropriate connectors. The wires are trimmed to avoid excess bulk, and the placement of the wiring harness is detailed to ensure correct orientation. The script provides a step-by-step guide to connecting each wire, using color-coded connectors, and crimping them securely. After all connections are made, the wiring is taped to prevent moisture and debris from affecting the connections. The fuel tank pressure sensor and other connectors are reconnected, and the trap door is replaced with its seal checked for condition. The final steps include reassembling the vehicle's interior, reconnecting the battery, and ensuring the seat is properly positioned.

15:03

🚗 Final Assembly and Testing

The final paragraph outlines the last steps of reassembling the car after the fuel pump replacement. It mentions the importance of a road test to ensure there are no fuel leaks or check engine light issues. The script concludes with a thank you note to the viewers for watching the tutorial.

Keywords

💡Oil Fill Neck

The oil fill neck is a component of the car engine where oil is poured into the engine. In the video, it is mentioned when the cover is being removed and is twisted counterclockwise to disconnect it. Removing this part gives access to the engine for further repairs.

💡Schrader Valve

The Schrader valve is a small valve that allows pressure to be released from the fuel system. In the video, the narrator emphasizes the need to press this valve carefully to release fuel pressure safely, highlighting the importance of safety during car maintenance tasks.

💡Fuel Rail

The fuel rail is a critical part of the fuel system that distributes fuel to the engine's fuel injectors. It is mentioned when the engine cover is removed to access it, providing visibility to areas needing attention during maintenance.

💡Fuel Sending Unit

The fuel sending unit is the component responsible for measuring the fuel level in the tank and sending that information to the fuel gauge. In the video, it is carefully removed and replaced during the process of working on the fuel pump and related components.

💡Locking Ring

The locking ring is a component used to secure the fuel pump assembly in place. The video describes how to remove it using a brass punch and a hammer, stressing the need for caution to avoid sparks near fuel vapors.

💡Electrical Connectors

Electrical connectors are components that join different electrical wires and circuits. In the video, two connectors are mentioned when disconnecting the fuel pump, and each needs careful inspection for corrosion before reconnection.

💡Fuel Lines

Fuel lines are tubes that carry fuel from the tank to the engine. The video shows the process of disconnecting the fuel lines by squeezing the tabs of the plastic connectors, and emphasizes careful handling to avoid spills and ensure proper reattachment.

💡Penetrant

Penetrant is a type of lubricant used to loosen rusted or stuck components. In the video, it is applied to the locking ring of the fuel pump to make it easier to remove without damaging the surrounding parts.

💡Float Leveler

The float leveler is part of the fuel sending unit that floats on the fuel to measure the tank's fuel level. The video shows how to carefully handle and attach it to the new fuel sending unit, ensuring accurate fuel level readings.

💡Battery Terminal

The battery terminal is the connection point for the battery cables to the car's electrical system. In the video, the negative battery terminal is disconnected as a safety precaution before starting work on the fuel system to avoid electrical sparks.

Highlights

Introduction to removing the engine cover and oil fill neck for inspection.

Clear view of the fuel rail and importance of accessing the Schrader valve.

Warning about handling fuel pressure safely and the importance of eye protection.

Steps to remove the rear seat to access the vehicle's negative battery terminal.

Exposure of the fuel pump area and instructions to remove the shield covering it.

Detailed process of disconnecting electrical connectors and inspecting for corrosion.

Explanation on how to disconnect the fuel lines using the small white plastic clips.

Use of penetrant spray to loosen the locking ring and the importance of using a brass punch to avoid sparks.

Safety instructions while removing the fuel sending unit, with emphasis on avoiding spills.

Inspection of the gasket area for debris to ensure a clean installation of the new fuel pump.

Instructions for reinstalling fuel adapters and ensuring a secure fit to the fuel lines.

Assembly of the new fuel sending unit and installation of the fuel level float.

Proper alignment of the fuel lines to avoid cross-connection and installation of the locking ring.

Important wiring connection instructions for replacing the old harness with a new one.

Final reassembly of the components, including securing the battery and ensuring all fuel connections are safe before testing the vehicle.

Transcripts

[Music]

[Music]

okay friends it's time to get started on

our job one of the first things we need

to do is get underneath the hood and

we're going to remove this cover to

remove the cover let's come right over

here to the oil fill neck we don't need

to only remove the cap we need to remove

the whole neck so grab right onto it

turn it counterclockwise to remove it

we'll give it a quick inspection set it

aside go ahead and grab onto that cover

we're going to lift it straight up and

then pull it towards the front you can

see that you have the mounting point

here that's going to need to fit into

the bracket along the back side of the

engine when we put this back together

now with that out of the way we have a

nice clear view of our fuel rail that's

this area coming across here and it goes

right up and over this intake here but

the area that we need to pay attention

to is this black cap located along the

front i'm gonna go ahead and grab onto

this we'll turn it counterclockwise to

remove it

and now that exposes a schrader valve

essentially for this if you were to push

in the center it's going to spray out

any fuel pressure that's inside the

system so you need to make sure you have

a nice clean rag hand and eye protection

at all times it's going to go ahead and

put it right underneath this area so we

can catch all of this fuel and now just

press on that center button all right

make sure it's nice and dry you don't

want any fuel sitting along the top of

your engine

let's go ahead and put our cap back on

that we'll put our engine cover back on

and the oil fill neck

line up this area along the front

let's get this in here close this up

the next thing we're going to do is get

in the back of the passenger compartment

we're going to lift up on this back seat

from the front

once it breaks free go ahead and slide

it out of the way and that's going to

expose your negative battery terminal go

ahead and use an eight millimeter remove

this and set it aside so it's making no

contact with the battery

give it a quick inspection

now from inside the trunk let's just go

ahead and grab onto this we're going to

pull it right back that's going to

expose a trap door which leads down to

that fuel pump area where we need to be

now to get this out of here we're going

to go ahead and grab onto a socket we

can remove all five of these bolts and

get it out of the way we'll use our nine

thirty second socket to remove this

[Music]

now that we have that shield out of the

way we can go ahead and blow this area

clean and free of any debris we don't

want anything falling into the fuel

system

the next thing that we're going to do is

start disconnecting our electrical

connectors you're going to find two of

them on this there's one right here

along the back we'll carefully lift up

on this tab gently slide it away

every time you remove an electrical

connector take a peek if you see funny

colors it's corrosion it would need to

be dealt with that looks fine now for

this one it has a blue lock that slides

into it all i want to do is carefully

get in between that blue lock i'm going

to lift it up grab onto this tab along

the side here pull this one off as well

quick inspection

set it aside

now we can move along to our two fuel

lines

the area that holds these fuel lines on

is a small piece of white plastic it has

two tabs on either side

all i want to do is grab onto those two

tabs i'm going to lightly squeeze well

listen for a click

now i can grab onto the black and i can

slide it right off of here

we'll do the same on this one

pry that off

and there we are

now at this point we can leave this just

like this i'm going to grab some

penetrant we're going to spray all along

the locking ring there's going to be

ears that you want to spray near there's

one here here there and then right over

here

now at this point i went ahead and i

sprayed everything down with penetrate

and i let it sit for a little bit so it

can kind of do its job

so to take off this locking ring what

you want to do is use a hammer and a

brass punch you never want to use a

steel punch of any sort on something

like this if you did make a spark you

can imagine what might happen if you

have fuel in this area

now with that said i'm just going to

carefully get on the lip of this we'll

give it a couple blocks to try to break

it free

so now at this point we're gonna have to

get this off of here but when we do it

we're going to do it all together with

the fuel sending unit when we try to

pull this up you also want to be taking

it off of the fuel lines if you can push

them off now push them off if not just

start lifting up and pull them off at

the same time

now we're just going to start lifting

this up and out of here it's important

to keep in mind it could still have fuel

in it so make sure you have a collection

bucket in the area carefully get this up

and out of here there's going to be a

couple things that you want to pay

attention to

one of the first things is the strainer

along the bottom you might get caught on

that but then you also have the level

which is essentially a float so we need

to do is tilt this on its side a little

bit pull that right out of there

now we can put this into our collection

receptacle and get it out of the back of

the trunk

now that we have the fuel pump out of

there let's go ahead and make sure that

we don't have the gasket in the area

we're not going to be reusing this our

new pump comes with one so we'll set

that aside

the next thing you want to do is pay

attention to this area in here you can

see that i have a whole bunch of rust

and debris

we want to make sure that we don't have

any in the area with this black right

here that's the area that the gasket is

going to be and it needs to be free and

clear of any debris go ahead and take a

rag we're going to carefully wipe this

out being very careful not to put any of

it into the fuel tank

just brush it right off and onto the

side

with the fuel ascending unit out of the

back of the trunk we can continue on to

removing these two adapters it's super

important to make sure that you remove

these give them a good inspection to

make sure they're still in good

condition and then we're going to put

them onto the lines that go into the

back of the trunk

to do that i just want to get underneath

each of the tabs that go along each side

and we'll carefully start sliding it off

once i have one side slit i'll do the

exact same thing to the other side

then you should be able to slide the

entire unit off now you just want to

give it a nice stretch what we want to

pay attention to is to see if it looks

dry rotted and cracked or broken in any

way if it does you need to replace it

this is what holds the fuel line to your

sending unit

let's do the exact same thing to this

one and then we can get back in the

trunk now for these what you want to do

is just take it and you're going to

slide it right in we're looking for

these little square notches that you can

see on either side of the line there's

two of them and there's two tabs on each

of these white adapters line it up

slide it in listen for a click do the

same exact thing on the other one

now it's time to start dealing with our

brand new fuel sending unit you're going

to notice that it has this area right

here that's supposed to have that little

float leveler on it

now it didn't come attached so you have

to actually attach it to do that you're

going to go ahead and put the nub right

into here and then line it up with the

rest of this and then lock it in

once it's lined up press it in listen

for a click give it a tug to make sure

it's secure you want to make sure this

is nice and tight you don't want it to

fall off while you're driving down the

road if it does you're not going to know

what level your fuel tank's at now in

your kit you're going to find that it

came with several seals you just want to

find the one that fits directly inside

this groove right here

for me personally it's this one

i'm just going to lay it right into

position inside of the groove all the

way around being careful not to drop any

of the debris that's in this area into

the fuel tank

now we can take our new fuel assembly

here

we'll take off these two

now we're going to put this into

position when we do we have to tilt it

so this can slide under also this has to

slide under and when it does you want to

make sure that it's not in the folded up

position it should essentially sit flat

and level like this this is the strainer

where the fuel is going to get drawn up

into the vehicle

careful for that seal you don't want it

to roll over and potentially fall into

the fuel tank

i'm just going to slide this right down

in

all right so now that we have it at this

point let's also take our locking ring

slide it right over this

now we can start pressing this down once

we start doing that we'll also be

connecting in our fuel lines now it's

not going to be something that you have

to worry about mixing up because one

line will actually be a little bit

thicker or wider than the other one you

can see right here this one's a little

bit thicker than that you can't mix them

up

so now what we're going to do is go

ahead and try to press this down just

enough so that we can start in each of

these ears into the locking tabs

once you have all of them started in go

ahead and continue on with your brass

punch and your hammer once again we're

being extremely careful not to cause any

type of spark in this area

okay

all right so now at this point what you

want to do is double check even triple

check make sure that this locking ring

is completely secured you do not want

this to open up on you while you're

driving down the road in which case

you'll have fuel vapors making its way

up into the passenger compartment super

unsafe okay so now we're gonna start

dealing with the wiring you're gonna

notice one of the wiring harnesses has

three wires going to it that's the one

that goes over here to the fuel tank

pressure switch or sensor

now the one that has the four wires to

it is the one that should connect right

into this area here but what you're

going to notice is it's a different

shape

so what i want to do is just pay

attention to where each of these wires

goes i'm going to cut them one at a time

and i'm going to start connecting them

into the brand new wiring harness here

when we do it they need to go in a

specific order so you don't want to just

connect them in all willy-nilly also

something to mention is there could

still potentially be a lot of fuel vapor

in this area and if that's the case you

don't want to do any soldering typically

i like to solder wiring together when

i'm doing something like this but never

in an enclosed area so with that said

i'm going to use the enclosed connectors

now it's pretty clear that we're not

necessarily going to need all this

wiring i don't want to have to go ahead

and connect this in right here and have

all this wiring just wrapped up in a big

old ball

so what i'm going to do is i'm just

going to go ahead and trim it down

approximately halfway you never want to

go all the way close to this because of

course we might have to make other cuts

and i don't want to go anywhere close to

this connector it's good to have plenty

of slack let's just go ahead and cut

these wires in half and then we can

continue

so now the next thing we're going to do

is make our way down the line here and

essentially all we want to do is splice

off these wires as well now if you were

staggering them on the car aspect of it

you'd also want to do the opposite on

this one so just keep that in mind

for me personally i'm just going to keep

going

i'll just get off all the outer

sheathing on these and then we can

continue on with our connectors so now

this part's very important the placement

of the wiring harness when you're

connecting all of your wires

this area right along here is the area

with a little squeeze tab we want to

have that facing towards you or out from

away from the vehicle and we want to

have it facing towards the passenger

side

not in this direction if you put it

backwards your wiring is also going to

be backwards

so we're going to go ahead and take this

from this angle and we're going to be

starting with this black wire

this top black wire with this facing

towards us is gonna go to the black wire

that has the stripe on it

so let's go ahead and find that one wire

and we'll start getting ready to connect

it let's take our connectors we're gonna

slide the wire right inside there

twisting it as we go trying to press it

in as far as we can

now we're going to crimp this down most

wire crimpers are going to have some

colors down at the very end where the

crimping aspect is the colors signify

the color for the actual connector

itself so we have a red connector i'm

going to use the red we'll get right

into that slot make sure the wire is

pressed in as far as we can crimp it

down

now what you're going to notice is i

didn't crimp all the way down near the

end here this area is only plastic up

near the center is where the metal

crimping area is so you need to make

sure you crimp directly on it and give

it a tug

assuming that feels good let's go ahead

and grab on to this wire here

we have it facing in the right direction

we know that we're going in the right

hole go ahead and press that right in

and crimp that down as well give it a

tug to make sure it's secure

now we're going to move along doing the

rest of our wires now the rest of this

is going to be the easy part the gray

wire is going to go to the gray the

purple will go to the purple and the

other black will go to the last black

wire

go ahead and get those connected in

okay so at this point i have this all

connected in i have my top black wire

connected into the black wire with the

white or gray tracer

i have the gray wire connected to the

gray wire the purple to the purple and

then i have my last black wire the one

all the way in the bottom of the new

connector down to the solid black wire

of the original connector

now at this point this looks really good

i'm going to continue on by taping it

off to make sure no moisture or debris

can make its way into this area then we

can go ahead and tuck it away and put

everything back together okay so now at

this point you can tell that i've got my

wiring taped up so no moisture or debris

can make its way into my connection

points now we can go ahead and take this

we're going to tuck it underneath this

area a little bit let's connect in that

fuel tank pressure sensor listen for a

click from that

now we can connect in our brand new

connector as well slide it in listen for

a click

there it is give both of them a tug to

make sure they're secure once you're

sure everything's secure let's put our

trap door back on here make sure the

seal is still in good condition

we're going to rest it in position right

over all the mounting holes you can see

all these areas here they need to line

up with the top holes

after you have it lined up go ahead and

start in all of your mounting bolts once

they're all started you can go ahead and

start snugging them up

let's put our carpet back

time to reconnect the battery

you want to make sure this is nice and

tight so it's making a positive contact

now let's get our seat back in position

make sure you grab all three of your

belt buckles slide them into position

which is the slots in the back seat here

now we can slide it back as far as

possible push the forward end down

make sure it's secure and all three of

your belt buckles are in the upright

position okay friends the car is back

together what's left to do now now of

course you're going to want to take it

for a road test make sure you don't

smell any funny fuel smells and make

sure you don't have a check engine light

thanks for watching

you