Should you hangboard twice a day?

Summary

The video script addresses the question of whether climbers should hangboard twice daily, a practice popularized by YouTube videos. The speaker, acknowledging the lack of scientific evidence, suggests that such a regimen may not be necessary for most. Instead, they advocate for a principle-based approach to training, emphasizing the importance of consistency and intensity in hangboarding to build finger strength and resilience. They also discuss the potential benefits of frequent, low-intensity hangboarding, such as increased confidence and reduced injury risk, but argue that max hangs combined with fingery bouldering might yield better long-term results.

Takeaways

• 🤔 The question of whether to hangboard twice a day is complex and depends on individual circumstances.
• 📚 Reliance on social media algorithms for training advice can lead to misinformation and distraction from fundamental principles.
• 🧗 Hangboarding is primarily for increasing finger strength and resilience, not just for endurance.
• 💪 The three main adaptations sought from hangboarding are increased muscle fiber recruitment, increased muscle mass in the forearm, and increased strength and toughness of connective tissue.
• 📈 'Newbie gains' can occur quickly but are followed by slower, more sustainable structural changes to muscle fibers.
• 🔍 There's a lack of direct scientific evidence for twice-a-day hangboarding; most results are anecdotal.
• 🚫 Training twice a day might not be necessary and could potentially lead to overuse injuries.
• 🏋️‍♀️ Max hangs are suggested as a more effective way to gain strength based on basic physiology research.
• 🧘‍♂️ Consistency, sufficient recovery, and aggressive neural activation are key principles for successful hangboarding.
• 📈 Gains from hangboarding can vary widely, with the best results often seen in less experienced climbers.
• 📚 The author's personal experience and the upcoming book 'Moving the Needle' provide insights into effective training protocols.

Q & A

What is the main concern the speaker has about relying on social media for training advice?

The main concern is that social media algorithms can lead individuals down rabbit holes of very specific questions, distracting them from understanding the broader principles that would allow them to answer their questions independently.

What is hangboarding and why do climbers do it?

Hangboarding is a training method used by climbers to increase finger strength and resilience. It helps in improving muscle fiber recruitment and coordination, increasing muscle mass in the forearm, and enhancing the strength and toughness of the connective tissue in the forearm and fingers.

What are the three main adaptations climbers aim for when hangboarding?

The three main adaptations are: 1) increasing the recruitment and coordination of muscle fiber firing in the forearm, mainly in the finger flexors, 2) increasing muscle mass in the forearm, and 3) increasing the strength and toughness of the connected tissue of the forearm and fingers.

Why does the speaker believe that twice-a-day hangboarding might not be necessary for most climbers?

The speaker suggests that twice-a-day hangboarding might not be necessary because most training questions have 'it depends' answers. They argue that a combination of fingery bouldering and max hangs on the fingerboard would likely yield better results for most climbers.

What does the speaker mean by 'newbie gains' in the context of hangboarding?

The speaker refers to 'newbie gains' as the initial rapid improvements in hang time that occur during the first few weeks of a hangboarding protocol, as the nervous system adapts to the exercise. These gains are followed by slower, more gradual improvements that are necessary for long-term structural changes.

What is the potential downside of twice-a-day low-intensity hangboarding according to the speaker?

The potential downside is that it could lead to overuse injuries if the ligaments and tendons do not get proper rest to adapt to the total loading applied to them, making more dangerous forms of climbing riskier.

Why does the speaker believe that anecdotal evidence from climbers about twice-a-day hangboarding is inconclusive?

Anecdotal evidence is inconclusive because it varies widely, with some climbers experiencing no strength gains and others experiencing quick plateaus. The speaker also notes that the best results tend to come from relatively untrained climbers, making it difficult to justify this training method as evidence.

What is the role of ligament and tendon strength in hangboarding according to the speaker?

Ligament and tendon strength play a role in hangboarding by indirectly helping finger strength. Injuries to these structures can lead to time away from training, which in turn can lead to detraining and weaken strength progression. Additionally, the feeling of vulnerability can cause climbers to reduce their efforts during training.

What does the speaker suggest as an alternative to twice-a-day low-intensity hangboarding?

The speaker suggests that a combination of fingery bouldering and max hangs on the fingerboard would likely be more effective. This approach is supported by the experience of thousands of climbers and is backed by basic physiology research.

What is the significance of the speaker's personal experience with hangboarding as described in the script?

The speaker's personal experience is significant because it demonstrates the effectiveness of a consistent hangboarding protocol that was integrated with other training adjustments. It shows that even experienced climbers can make significant gains with a focused and strategic approach to training.

Why does the speaker emphasize the importance of consistency in hangboarding routines?

Consistency is emphasized because it is often what is missing in people's training programs. Consistent finger loading, whether through hangboarding or other forms of climbing, is crucial for steady progress and tissue health.