Gundam Model Tips and Techniques From a Master Builder!
Summary
TLDRIn this engaging conversation at WonderFest, Norm interviews Matt from Matt's Models Customs about the resurgence of Gundam model building, especially during the pandemic. Matt explains the appeal of Gunpla and Gundam models, their ease of entry for beginners, and the creative freedom in building resin kits. He details his meticulous process of transforming a 15-year-old resin kit into a detailed masterpiece, including cleaning, scribing, painting with pre-shading, and meticulous masking. The discussion highlights the artistry and craftsmanship involved in model building, showcasing the dedication and skill required to create show-worthy pieces.
Takeaways
- 🎥 The video features an interview with Matt from Matt's Models Customs at WonderFest in Louisville, Kentucky, discussing the resurgence of Gundam model building.
- 🚀 Matt notes a significant increase in the Gundam community over the past 5-6 years, partly due to people rediscovering hobbies during the pandemic.
- 👶 Gunpla (Gundam plastic model kits) are described as user-friendly and suitable for all ages, with a wide range of complexity, making them accessible to beginners.
- 🛠️ Basic tools for building Gunpla are minimal, primarily consisting of nippers, similar to nail clippers, which are essential for trimming parts.
- 🗝️ The interview delves into the world of resin Gundam kits, which are less commercialized and often created by enthusiasts, offering unique designs not available in plastic kits.
- 📐 Matt explains the process of building a resin kit, which includes dealing with fit issues, scribing panel lines, and ensuring stability in the final model.
- 🎨 The video highlights the use of magnets for assembly, the importance of pre-shading, and the meticulous process of painting and detailing the model.
- 🔍 Matt discusses the challenges of working with old resin kits, including dealing with dried-out transfers and the need for careful preparation and painting.
- 🛡️ The process of masking and painting is emphasized, with Matt detailing the order of operations and the precision required for clean results.
- 💡 Lighting is incorporated into the model, with Matt crediting a company called Evans Design for helping with the challenge of illuminating the model.
- 🏆 The final product is a highly detailed, clean, and professional-looking scale model, showcasing the skill and patience required in the hobby.
Q & A
What event is Norm from Tested attending in the script?
-Norm from Tested is attending WonderFest in Louisville, Kentucky.
Who is Matt from Matt's Models Customs and what does he specialize in?
-Matt is a model builder who specializes in building and customizing Gundam models, including resin kits.
What has contributed to the surge in the Gundam community according to Matt?
-The surge in the Gundam community is attributed to the pandemic, where people were home and rediscovering their hobbies, and the ease of getting into Gunpla or Gundam model building due to its user-friendly nature.
What is the basic tool needed to start building Gunpla according to the conversation?
-The basic tool needed to start building Gunpla is a pair of nippers, which are similar to nail clippers.
What is a resin kit in the context of Gundam modeling?
-A resin kit refers to a type of model kit made from resin material, often produced in smaller quantities or by independent creators, and may require more advanced building techniques compared to plastic kits.
How does Matt ensure the stability and assembly of a full resin kit model?
-Matt ensures stability and assembly by using techniques such as scribing panel lines deeply, engineering the assembly to stay together, and using magnets for detachable parts.
What is the process Matt uses for pre-shading on a Gunpla model?
-Matt uses a pre-shading process where he applies a black base coat and then applies white highlights underneath the red color to control the contrast of shading.
Why does Matt prefer using Mr. Color paints for the red parts of the model?
-Matt prefers Mr. Color paints for the red parts because of their quality and the simplicity of application, which involves a mist coat followed by one wet coat.
What is the significance of the masking process in building a detailed Gunpla model?
-The masking process is significant as it allows for precise painting of detailed areas and prevents paint from spreading onto unwanted areas, ensuring a clean finish.
How does Matt address the challenge of using old dry transfers that have dried out?
-Matt addresses the challenge by carefully cutting out the dry transfers and using clear masking tape to apply them. He also mentions having to surgically place some letters that did not release from the protective paper.
What is the final step in Matt's process after applying the paint and decals to the model?
-The final step in Matt's process is applying a high gloss coat for a shiny finish, followed by the final assembly of the model, including the installation of lighting if applicable.
Outlines
🤖 Resurgence of Gundam Model Building
In this segment, Norm from Tested interviews Matt from Matt's Models Customs at WonderFest in Louisville, Kentucky. They discuss the growing interest in Gundam model building, particularly in the US, which has surged over the past 5-6 years, especially during the pandemic. Matt explains that Gundam, or Gunpla, is accessible and appealing to a wide audience, including children, due to its ease of assembly and the variety of models available. The conversation also touches on the minimal tools required for basic assembly, such as nippers, and the potential for enthusiasts to take their models to a higher level of detail and customization.
🎨 Advanced Techniques in Gundam Modeling
Matt shares his expertise in building resin Gundam kits, a less commercialized aspect of the hobby that offers unique designs and creative freedom. The discussion delves into the process of assembling a resin kit, including dealing with fit issues, scribing panel lines, and ensuring stability. Matt also talks about his use of magnets for detachable parts and the incorporation of lighting effects, for which he credits a company called Evans Design. The segment highlights the meticulous work involved in detailing, painting, and assembling subassemblies, emphasizing the time-consuming nature of the hobby and the satisfaction derived from creating a high-quality, custom model.
🖌️ Painting and Panel Lining in Gundam Modeling
This paragraph focuses on the painting techniques used in Gundam modeling, with an emphasis on pre-shading, where highlights and shadows are applied beneath the main color. Matt describes his process of applying a black base coat followed by white highlights to create depth and contrast, adjusting the blend of colors to match his desired aesthetic. The conversation also covers the extensive use of masking in the painting process, the order of operations for applying paint, and the challenges of working with old decals. The importance of a high-gloss coat to enhance the model's appearance and the use of flat coats to accentuate shading are also discussed.
🛠️ Final Assembly and Lighting in Resin Gundam Kits
In the final paragraph, Matt concludes the discussion by detailing the final assembly process of his resin Gundam model, including the integration of lighting effects. He describes how he hollowed out the model's legs to incorporate a brass tube for wiring and stability. The segment also touches on the use of pins and magnets for detachable parts and the careful consideration of shipping purposes. Matt reflects on the time investment required for such a project, highlighting the six weeks of work put into making the model look like a manufactured, scaled piece. The conversation ends with a nod to the creative process, emphasizing the importance of embracing failure as a part of learning and growth in the hobby.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Gunpla
💡Model Building
💡Resin Kits
💡Panel Lines
💡Pre-shading
💡Magnetization
💡Molding and Casting
💡Masking
💡Dry Transfers
💡Flat Coat
💡Demerit Badges
Highlights
Matt from Matt's Models Customs discusses the resurgence of the Gundam community, especially during the pandemic.
Gunpla and Gundam models are user-friendly and appeal to a wide range of hobbyists including kids.
Gunpla kits are easy to assemble without the need for extensive tools, making them accessible for beginners.
Matt has been building resin kits for over a decade, showcasing a unique approach to model building.
Resin kits offer a variety of subject matters not commonly found in commercialized products.
The process of building a resin kit involves dealing with mold lines, fit issues, and part stability.
Matt demonstrates the use of magnets for creating removable parts in Gundam models.
Evans Design is highlighted as a resource for model lighting solutions.
The importance of cleaning resin kits to remove mold release is emphasized for better paint adhesion.
Matt explains the process of pre-shading and its benefits for controlling contrast in model painting.
The use of Mr. Color paints for their quality and ease of application in model building is mentioned.
Magnetic connections are used for ease of disassembly and potential repairs in model building.
Matt details the meticulous process of masking and painting subassemblies for a clean finish.
The use of dry transfers for markings on models and the challenges of using old transfers are discussed.
A high-gloss coat is applied to models for a professional finish, with the technique impacting the final appearance.
Matt shares his process of hollowing out model parts for internal lighting effects.
The video concludes with a discussion on the creative process, embracing failure, and the introduction of demerit badge bundles.
Transcripts
[Music]
hey everyone Norm from tested here at
WonderFest in Louisville Kentucky and
here with Matt from Matt's models
Customs great to meet you mat meet you
nor thanks for having me oh pleasure to
be here this year we see a lot of Mecca
representing a lot of Mech oh this is so
cool cuz for model building at least in
America people know Star Wars Star Trek
models but do you see a rise and maybe
Resurgence in people building gunpla gun
Gundam in particular um I would say in
the past 5 to six years maybe since the
pandemic the Gundam community has really
surged uh for a couple reasons people
were home kind of rediscovering their
Hobby and model building uh gun gun plug
or gunam is very easy to get into it's
very user or youth friendly so the kids
love it they got little cute things and
they got big things like this and uh
snapped together you put it together you
can play with it you don't have to paint
it and it looks great so it's a really
great tool to get young people into the
hobby yeah snit k you don't really need
many tools at all it's pair Nippers and
that's basically it nail clippers that's
itail Clippers you're good to go but
there's a wide range of what you can do
to take your kit to the next level and
someone like you who's been building for
over a decade uh tell me about first of
all the world of resin Gundam cuz I
didn't even know resin kits were a thing
in the Gundam Universe right so um
personally I built mostly resin kits um
it just kind of interested me as far as
the different subject matters that were
available not so quite commercialized um
it's kind of like anything else when
someone else is producing something they
enjoy or like they kind of take creative
license and freedom with that design and
then they produce you know they sculpt
it the model and they make a model kit
and so this is an example of a resin kit
correct that maybe was someone's had
purchased from a run of it and you took
it to make it look like a fully
mechanized corre two scale character
right so this was a kit that was
produced I would say 15 years ago the
company was called neog grade they're no
longer around sculptor's name was Pia
and um I'm pretty sure this was a 3D
rendered print kit and the reason I say
that is as I was working on the prep you
can see some layer lines okay and you
don't see that until you start sanding
the primer yeah so I'm pretty sure this
was originally a 3D sculpt um just by
when I was working on it but this is a
full resin kit 348 350 Parts um all
resin with the the exception of some
little hinges that are inside these like
these can open and close the chest can
open and close um um those I think are
I'm not sure how they were made to be
honest they're like a plastic material
yeah but I'm not sure if they're printed
or how they're produced but yeah so it's
um it's it's a matter of you know it's
not band night so snap snap together so
you kind of have to know how to make it
stay together so it doesn't fall apart
so the you know the process as far as
building a resin kit as especially a
full resin kit is if the parts don't fit
how do I fix that how do I make sure
when I put the arms on they're going to
fall off um like I could pick this guy
up by his crotch and he is super super
solid with the exception of The Shield
cuz he's just kind of pegged in are
these panel lines part of the kit or are
they panel lines you've scribed in are
so they're part of the kit but the very
first step I do on a kit like this is I
go back and I
all the prep primer and paint that are
going to go onto it that will diminish
the L that will fill them in and if I do
if I don't do that I try to go do a
panel wash and there's nothing there
right so very first step is to go
through and Scribe all the panel lines
nice and deep um just in prep for all
the the uh prep work that it's going to
go into the so clean these these 45
degree angles or and that's that's
interesting you say that because that's
a very indicative to gumla yeah all
these really kind of harsh angles and
things even on these really curved
surfaces it's all the different angles
and the way the panels are kind of
scribed and delineated kind of gives it
that aesthetic yes so you got scale in
scale yeah so you got kind of this
organic shape with all these really cool
angled panels on it so it's kind of it's
kind of a really beautiful mix looks
absolutely all right so you're deepening
the panel line you're engineering the
assembly making sure it's all red lot of
magnets in the sky yeah okay so the arms
are magnetized those come off the back
skirt is magnetized can we take an arm
off can we take a look so I can take you
okay so this comes off and I've got a
wire right there cuz that's the
thrusters are lit yeah and now if I
we'll do some disassembly so I take that
off so I have to give a website a shout
out because lighting this was a
challenge to me I'm not one to light
things so when Joseph said he wanted
this lit I'm like I got to figure that
out there's a company called Evans
design and they spec specifically cater
to scale modelers so I called them like
I've got this project we have everything
you need kind of told them what I wanted
to do and they it's it's play might I
take a look go right ahead so as a resin
kit the sub assemblies aren't part of it
necessar no no I have to make all the
subassemblies you're making them and
you're painting them to still look like
they are layered correct so like inside
of all these details I brought all these
little panels out that's all done with
masking and panel lining so like this
shoulder alone probably has 30 or 40
pieces in it wow yeah so just it's all
just done with layering so if I put that
down now this
arm just hold it there's a
magnet if I take this
[Music]
off there's a magnet there it's also
kind of a pressure
fit if I take this off I could actually
take this off a little bit this arm does
come out but this is also magnetized so
I've also designed this to um be able to
get into the wiring if needed it's a
really tight fit but there we
go and you're painting subassemblies as
you go so the way the way I handle this
is um I do it's it's various stages of
prep and paint so the very first thing I
do like describe the P lines I do a
light sanding on everything uh on resin
kits you have what's called a gate which
what like it' be the same thing from a
sprew when you cut it off it's a little
a little nib yep same thing it's a gate
but it's where they poured the resin
into the mold yep take care of old
uh take care of those there's any uh
mold lines or mold slips like you know a
two-part mold you got two parts of
silicone sometimes they'll do this kind
of thing so you get step sometimes
they'll sand out sometime I got a putty
and redo some sculpting this one this
kit is really good I just had some
slight mold lines but there's 340 pieces
so at
345 times I have to go through and get
all the mold lines out sand them out
scribe uh all that fun stuff so that's
why it takes so long every kit it's a
it's a different you're not building
five of these you're you're kind of
figuring out your workflow laying all
the parts out so like this is magnetized
and if I were to continue taking this
apart I could take the the top of the
Torso off you'd see where all the wires
connect yeah so after the um scribing
initial cleanup of mold lines gate
removal and stuff like that it's time to
give it a really good bath I'm neurotic
about cleaning resin because of molder
lease so when they're casting a resin
kit they've got to spray of mold
releasee in the in the mold so the resin
doesn't stick yep and they can reuse
those molds over and over again it gets
a bath and an ultra sunic cleaner then I
lay down my first cutter primer and now
we start more
sanding if you don't like to build if
you don't like the sand don't build
models I would say 60% of it is sanding
yeah so then the primer acts as a guide
coat so when I do that first round of
primer I'd say 90% of it gets sanded off
I'm looking for the the panel or the
print line I mentioned um cuz you can't
see them by the eye but when you start
sing they start to come out um any
little imperfections in the resin those
get sanded out again mold lines mold
slips so that's the first round of
primer goes gets another bath ultrasonic
give it a bath second round of primer
now I'm really really getting in there
with like an optivizor you know
magnifying glass and looking for any
little
imperfections and I'm Mark them with a
sharpie and that Sharpie now ex as a
sanding guy so if I see a mold line I
just kind of go over it and that's I
saying once the Sharpie is gone I know
it's gone so then I do one more kind of
round of spot priming now it's finally
ready for
paint so this took six weeks just to
prep before paint no three weeks of it
was prep okay A little over three weeks
was just prep before I put any color on
it and that's and this is a really good
kit you get you get one that's not so
good you're it's going to take
longer so now the
paint um so way I kind of the way I do
red um I usually put down a black base
coat first and then all the highlighting
you see is underneath the red and I
highlight with white and I can control
the contrast of that shading with how
far do I get close to that panel line
how much do I blend the white paint to
kind of mute the black and so there's a
kind of a fine line it's all personal
preference on that step when I think of
it it's the other way around where
shading go on top but you're high that's
supposed to be revealing but you're
actually revealing the under coat corre
correct so the way I do is on this par
on a gunam is called pre-shading where
you're doing the highlighting and Shadow
underneath the color if you're doing on
top it's called post shading got it so
you got pre and post shading um I know
some painters that do Post shading and
it looks beautiful yeah it's a little
harder to do in my opinion because once
that color is on you have to be super
super accurate with that shading any
little inconsistency is going to show up
big time and it tends to be a little
more Punchy too a little more contrast
but I can control the contrast with how
much I blend that white paint so for
instance on this like um like on the
shoulder is a good
example it and it doesn't show up in in
photos most of the time it's very subtle
you know so I'll go and I'll add white
highlights in between all these panels
and bring that really really bright and
I back off my airbrush and I start
misting white on it until I think looks
pretty good and then I don't put the red
on until at least the next day CU that
paint's going to dry down and that's
going to show me the contrast I have so
the next
day I'll look at it if I need to feel
like I need to blend it in a little more
I will but after you've done it for a
while you kind of know when to stop that
fits your taste so this one once I got
that done the next day was the red and
this is all Mr color paints by the way
which is my favorite paint for the red
it's real simple I do a Mist coat and
then one wet coat and that's it cuz you
don't want to hide that shading work
right now I could add more red and it's
not going to really hide it it's going
to change the um Vibrance a little bit
maybe a little bit of the um opacity but
you just kind of you do it slowly so you
do one test piece you let it dry down
seal it so you know what it's going to
look like in the end and then once
you're happy there then you can continue
doing on everything else so that's how I
do red black white highlight blend a
little bit red color is a lot of masking
as well yeah we love masking s Mas if
you don't like to sand or mask don't
build off particularly in Gundam since
it's such depending on what you're doing
some of the other guys who like do
weathered stuff you're not trying to be
so precise maybe yeah but when you're
doing something like this that's really
clean the masking is a big part of it um
if I take the shield off
here you can see all this oh wow all
that work oh my gosh you order of
operations yeah be incredibly precise
yeah so a new razor blade and
um wow and there's also an order of
painting when you're masking depending
if you're airbrushing or hand painting
at least for me if I'm if I know I'm
going to do masking I work my way from
the bottom up because what I want to do
especially on something like the shield
and if I took the the leg armors off it
have all this detail underneath same
thing um so I work from the lowest spot
get that color down put these little
silver then I mask it and that doesn't
get un masked until the very that
masking tape stays on till the very end
so so you don't even know if you've Miss
masked or anything there will be some
touchups here and there but it's I've
gotten pretty good at it I've gotten
pretty good at it um so yeah the masking
so I always start from the lowest spot
get that color down let it dry overnight
mask it next color just work my way up
and then the fun part is taking the tape
off right where you like this it's the
reveal yes like okay my work has paid
off yes um and then the next step I do
on this on these I'll put down a high
gloss coat
um sometimes I use an automotive 2K
clear or this is but on this one I use
just the Mr color clear uh there's a Mr
color has a line of paints called GX
it's like a higher pigmented it's like
their higher line higher end paints it
looks great and um if you know how to
spray you can get glass-like finish and
it's just technique as far as getting
that look and once that's cured now it's
time for the markings this kit came with
dry transfers instead of water slides so
um and the way those work it's on a
plastic backing and you cut them out
individually use some clear masking tape
get it in place and you only get one
shot it's not like a decal where if you
kind of you can play with it you get one
shot and then you rub it on with a a
blunt object and it releases from that
backing yeah the challenge I had with
this kit because it's an old kit it's
been sitting in the closet for 15 years
those dyed transfers were dry they've
dried out so as I was cutting the some
of the the dry transfers off of the the
field some of the letters were releasing
off that field
so um oh it's on the back side but I
don't want to turn it around but like
for instance I was taking this one off
and there's a a number zero and the
letter N I went to go put it on and it
was still on the protect the protective
paper so I had to surgically yeah Place
some all those letters wow um
luckily I was able to use like 98% of
them with no problem um so yeah but but
the great thing about dry transfers they
are super flat and they look painted on
even even water even really good SL
water slide decal sometimes depending on
the Finish you use you can kind of see a
little the Border a little border yeah
but I always say flat flat coat's your
friend because it does two things it
really shows off the shading and it
shows it it hides a lot of little incons
you know little you know inconsistency
made little mistakes that do I dare say
but um flat is your friend I like it cuz
especially on gum because it really
shows shading off if you start adding
gloss to it it kind of kills it a little
bit so yeah so then after that it's the
the flat coat uh final assembly uh for
the lighting on this one like I said I'm
not one to light things actually uh
hollowed out the legs from the hip all
the way down to the foot and there's a
38 inch brass tube not only acts as a
pin a pin is something you use to hold
two pieces together it's either for
stability or just to kind of hold it
together while you work so that's pined
the legs together and that's my conduit
for all the white
um so yeah so and then everything else
is um there's some pins here and there
magnets like for shipping purposes the
fuel tanks come off this comes off the
side scripts will come off um the head
comes off it plugs in um but yeah that's
kind of like my process and it just you
know it's timec consuming it's
absolutely six weeks of work on this
yeah a little over six weeks and to make
take a you know over decade old resin
kit to make it look like a manufactured
thing at scale yeah you know and and
there's a great variety of I think like
especially newer guys are intimidated by
resin I actually find it easier to work
with in plastic personally I come from
an automotive body background so just
Bondo and sanding and all to me it's
like working with Bondo it's just a
different shape but it's actually it's
relatively easy you just have to know
how to fix things in castings that may
not be so perfect that's where people
get intimidated they see something and
they don't know how to fix it so it's
sanding putty work stuff like that sing
masking love it it's you know it's
taking those basic skills that you learn
and just kind of bringing them up a
level yeah well fantastic work Matt
thank you um incredible and and to see
all details as you're taking pieces off
on the other side something only the
final collector is going to see that's
great that's great aome thank you
pleasure so much thanks for
chatting thank you for watching that
video I want to tell you about our
dearit badges because we know that being
a is a lifelong Enterprise of trying new
things and learning new skills and it is
also about repeatedly messing everything
up and we like to celebrate that because
failure is not just an option it is
intrinsic to the creative process and to
that end we have three new bundles of
demerit badges right now on tested
dstore
docomo tool fails demerit badge bundle
up here on top here in the middle we
have the everyday whoops demerit badge
bundle and at the bottom we've got my
favorite the happens demerit badge
bundle you can get any one of these
bundles and we are considering offering
a bundle of all 24 not those of all 24
demerit badges we have released but
we're not sure what to call it you have
a suggestion put it in the comments
5.0 / 5 (0 votes)