Gundam Model Tips and Techniques From a Master Builder!

Adam Savage’s Tested
9 Jul 202418:13

Summary

TLDRIn this engaging conversation at WonderFest, Norm interviews Matt from Matt's Models Customs about the resurgence of Gundam model building, especially during the pandemic. Matt explains the appeal of Gunpla and Gundam models, their ease of entry for beginners, and the creative freedom in building resin kits. He details his meticulous process of transforming a 15-year-old resin kit into a detailed masterpiece, including cleaning, scribing, painting with pre-shading, and meticulous masking. The discussion highlights the artistry and craftsmanship involved in model building, showcasing the dedication and skill required to create show-worthy pieces.

Takeaways

  • 🎥 The video features an interview with Matt from Matt's Models Customs at WonderFest in Louisville, Kentucky, discussing the resurgence of Gundam model building.
  • 🚀 Matt notes a significant increase in the Gundam community over the past 5-6 years, partly due to people rediscovering hobbies during the pandemic.
  • 👶 Gunpla (Gundam plastic model kits) are described as user-friendly and suitable for all ages, with a wide range of complexity, making them accessible to beginners.
  • 🛠️ Basic tools for building Gunpla are minimal, primarily consisting of nippers, similar to nail clippers, which are essential for trimming parts.
  • 🗝️ The interview delves into the world of resin Gundam kits, which are less commercialized and often created by enthusiasts, offering unique designs not available in plastic kits.
  • 📐 Matt explains the process of building a resin kit, which includes dealing with fit issues, scribing panel lines, and ensuring stability in the final model.
  • 🎨 The video highlights the use of magnets for assembly, the importance of pre-shading, and the meticulous process of painting and detailing the model.
  • 🔍 Matt discusses the challenges of working with old resin kits, including dealing with dried-out transfers and the need for careful preparation and painting.
  • 🛡️ The process of masking and painting is emphasized, with Matt detailing the order of operations and the precision required for clean results.
  • 💡 Lighting is incorporated into the model, with Matt crediting a company called Evans Design for helping with the challenge of illuminating the model.
  • 🏆 The final product is a highly detailed, clean, and professional-looking scale model, showcasing the skill and patience required in the hobby.

Q & A

  • What event is Norm from Tested attending in the script?

    -Norm from Tested is attending WonderFest in Louisville, Kentucky.

  • Who is Matt from Matt's Models Customs and what does he specialize in?

    -Matt is a model builder who specializes in building and customizing Gundam models, including resin kits.

  • What has contributed to the surge in the Gundam community according to Matt?

    -The surge in the Gundam community is attributed to the pandemic, where people were home and rediscovering their hobbies, and the ease of getting into Gunpla or Gundam model building due to its user-friendly nature.

  • What is the basic tool needed to start building Gunpla according to the conversation?

    -The basic tool needed to start building Gunpla is a pair of nippers, which are similar to nail clippers.

  • What is a resin kit in the context of Gundam modeling?

    -A resin kit refers to a type of model kit made from resin material, often produced in smaller quantities or by independent creators, and may require more advanced building techniques compared to plastic kits.

  • How does Matt ensure the stability and assembly of a full resin kit model?

    -Matt ensures stability and assembly by using techniques such as scribing panel lines deeply, engineering the assembly to stay together, and using magnets for detachable parts.

  • What is the process Matt uses for pre-shading on a Gunpla model?

    -Matt uses a pre-shading process where he applies a black base coat and then applies white highlights underneath the red color to control the contrast of shading.

  • Why does Matt prefer using Mr. Color paints for the red parts of the model?

    -Matt prefers Mr. Color paints for the red parts because of their quality and the simplicity of application, which involves a mist coat followed by one wet coat.

  • What is the significance of the masking process in building a detailed Gunpla model?

    -The masking process is significant as it allows for precise painting of detailed areas and prevents paint from spreading onto unwanted areas, ensuring a clean finish.

  • How does Matt address the challenge of using old dry transfers that have dried out?

    -Matt addresses the challenge by carefully cutting out the dry transfers and using clear masking tape to apply them. He also mentions having to surgically place some letters that did not release from the protective paper.

  • What is the final step in Matt's process after applying the paint and decals to the model?

    -The final step in Matt's process is applying a high gloss coat for a shiny finish, followed by the final assembly of the model, including the installation of lighting if applicable.

Outlines

00:00

🤖 Resurgence of Gundam Model Building

In this segment, Norm from Tested interviews Matt from Matt's Models Customs at WonderFest in Louisville, Kentucky. They discuss the growing interest in Gundam model building, particularly in the US, which has surged over the past 5-6 years, especially during the pandemic. Matt explains that Gundam, or Gunpla, is accessible and appealing to a wide audience, including children, due to its ease of assembly and the variety of models available. The conversation also touches on the minimal tools required for basic assembly, such as nippers, and the potential for enthusiasts to take their models to a higher level of detail and customization.

05:02

🎨 Advanced Techniques in Gundam Modeling

Matt shares his expertise in building resin Gundam kits, a less commercialized aspect of the hobby that offers unique designs and creative freedom. The discussion delves into the process of assembling a resin kit, including dealing with fit issues, scribing panel lines, and ensuring stability. Matt also talks about his use of magnets for detachable parts and the incorporation of lighting effects, for which he credits a company called Evans Design. The segment highlights the meticulous work involved in detailing, painting, and assembling subassemblies, emphasizing the time-consuming nature of the hobby and the satisfaction derived from creating a high-quality, custom model.

10:03

🖌️ Painting and Panel Lining in Gundam Modeling

This paragraph focuses on the painting techniques used in Gundam modeling, with an emphasis on pre-shading, where highlights and shadows are applied beneath the main color. Matt describes his process of applying a black base coat followed by white highlights to create depth and contrast, adjusting the blend of colors to match his desired aesthetic. The conversation also covers the extensive use of masking in the painting process, the order of operations for applying paint, and the challenges of working with old decals. The importance of a high-gloss coat to enhance the model's appearance and the use of flat coats to accentuate shading are also discussed.

15:03

🛠️ Final Assembly and Lighting in Resin Gundam Kits

In the final paragraph, Matt concludes the discussion by detailing the final assembly process of his resin Gundam model, including the integration of lighting effects. He describes how he hollowed out the model's legs to incorporate a brass tube for wiring and stability. The segment also touches on the use of pins and magnets for detachable parts and the careful consideration of shipping purposes. Matt reflects on the time investment required for such a project, highlighting the six weeks of work put into making the model look like a manufactured, scaled piece. The conversation ends with a nod to the creative process, emphasizing the importance of embracing failure as a part of learning and growth in the hobby.

Mindmap

Keywords

💡Gunpla

Gunpla refers to plastic model kits of the fictional mobile suits from the Gundam franchise. It is central to the video's theme as it discusses the resurgence of interest in building these models, especially in America. The script mentions that the Gundam community has surged in recent years, with people rediscovering the hobby and the ease of entry for Gunpla kits.

💡Model Building

Model building is the process of assembling a physical model from a set of parts, often involving kits that require assembly. It is the main focus of the video, where the host and guest discuss the hobby, its resurgence, and the specifics of building Gunpla and resin kits. The script highlights the rise in model building due to people being at home during the pandemic.

💡Resin Kits

Resin kits are model kits made from resin, a type of plastic material that is often used for more detailed and less commercialized models. In the script, the guest discusses his experience with resin kits, including the process of building and customizing them, and how they differ from traditional plastic model kits.

💡Panel Lines

Panel lines refer to the lines or grooves that represent the seams between different sections of a model's surface, adding to the model's detail and realism. The script describes the process of scribing panel lines into a resin kit to enhance its appearance and make it look more like the original mechanical design from the Gundam series.

💡Pre-shading

Pre-shading is a painting technique where highlights and shadows are applied beneath the main color coat to create depth and contrast. The script explains that the guest uses pre-shading to control the contrast of the model, which is a key part of making the model look realistic and well-defined.

💡Magnetization

Magnetization in the context of model building refers to the use of magnets to allow parts of the model to be easily attached or detached. The script mentions the use of magnets in the arms and skirt of the model, which allows for easy disassembly and customization.

💡Molding and Casting

Molding and casting are processes used to produce models, where a mold is made and then filled with a material like resin to create the model parts. The script discusses the presence of mold lines and the need to clean and prepare resin cast parts before assembly and painting.

💡Masking

Masking in model building is the process of covering certain areas of the model to protect them from paint or other finishing materials. The script describes the meticulous use of masking tape for precise painting, which is crucial for achieving a clean and professional finish on the model.

💡Dry Transfers

Dry transfers are a type of decal that is applied to a model's surface by rubbing it on, often used for markings or logos. The script mentions the use of dry transfers for the model's markings, which can be challenging to apply but result in a very flat and realistic appearance.

💡Flat Coat

A flat coat is a type of clear coat that provides a matte finish to a model, enhancing the visibility of shading and panel lines. The script discusses the application of a flat coat to the model, which helps to showcase the shading work and hide any minor inconsistencies in the paint job.

💡Demerit Badges

Demerit badges are a humorous way to celebrate the inevitable mistakes and failures that come with the creative process. The script ends with a mention of demerit badges as a way to embrace the learning process and the idea that failure is an integral part of creativity.

Highlights

Matt from Matt's Models Customs discusses the resurgence of the Gundam community, especially during the pandemic.

Gunpla and Gundam models are user-friendly and appeal to a wide range of hobbyists including kids.

Gunpla kits are easy to assemble without the need for extensive tools, making them accessible for beginners.

Matt has been building resin kits for over a decade, showcasing a unique approach to model building.

Resin kits offer a variety of subject matters not commonly found in commercialized products.

The process of building a resin kit involves dealing with mold lines, fit issues, and part stability.

Matt demonstrates the use of magnets for creating removable parts in Gundam models.

Evans Design is highlighted as a resource for model lighting solutions.

The importance of cleaning resin kits to remove mold release is emphasized for better paint adhesion.

Matt explains the process of pre-shading and its benefits for controlling contrast in model painting.

The use of Mr. Color paints for their quality and ease of application in model building is mentioned.

Magnetic connections are used for ease of disassembly and potential repairs in model building.

Matt details the meticulous process of masking and painting subassemblies for a clean finish.

The use of dry transfers for markings on models and the challenges of using old transfers are discussed.

A high-gloss coat is applied to models for a professional finish, with the technique impacting the final appearance.

Matt shares his process of hollowing out model parts for internal lighting effects.

The video concludes with a discussion on the creative process, embracing failure, and the introduction of demerit badge bundles.

Transcripts

play00:01

[Music]

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hey everyone Norm from tested here at

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WonderFest in Louisville Kentucky and

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here with Matt from Matt's models

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Customs great to meet you mat meet you

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nor thanks for having me oh pleasure to

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be here this year we see a lot of Mecca

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representing a lot of Mech oh this is so

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cool cuz for model building at least in

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America people know Star Wars Star Trek

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models but do you see a rise and maybe

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Resurgence in people building gunpla gun

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Gundam in particular um I would say in

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the past 5 to six years maybe since the

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pandemic the Gundam community has really

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surged uh for a couple reasons people

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were home kind of rediscovering their

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Hobby and model building uh gun gun plug

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or gunam is very easy to get into it's

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very user or youth friendly so the kids

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love it they got little cute things and

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they got big things like this and uh

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snapped together you put it together you

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can play with it you don't have to paint

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it and it looks great so it's a really

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great tool to get young people into the

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hobby yeah snit k you don't really need

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many tools at all it's pair Nippers and

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that's basically it nail clippers that's

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itail Clippers you're good to go but

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there's a wide range of what you can do

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to take your kit to the next level and

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someone like you who's been building for

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over a decade uh tell me about first of

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all the world of resin Gundam cuz I

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didn't even know resin kits were a thing

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in the Gundam Universe right so um

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personally I built mostly resin kits um

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it just kind of interested me as far as

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the different subject matters that were

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available not so quite commercialized um

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it's kind of like anything else when

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someone else is producing something they

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enjoy or like they kind of take creative

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license and freedom with that design and

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then they produce you know they sculpt

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it the model and they make a model kit

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and so this is an example of a resin kit

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correct that maybe was someone's had

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purchased from a run of it and you took

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it to make it look like a fully

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mechanized corre two scale character

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right so this was a kit that was

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produced I would say 15 years ago the

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company was called neog grade they're no

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longer around sculptor's name was Pia

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and um I'm pretty sure this was a 3D

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rendered print kit and the reason I say

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that is as I was working on the prep you

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can see some layer lines okay and you

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don't see that until you start sanding

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the primer yeah so I'm pretty sure this

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was originally a 3D sculpt um just by

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when I was working on it but this is a

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full resin kit 348 350 Parts um all

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resin with the the exception of some

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little hinges that are inside these like

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these can open and close the chest can

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open and close um um those I think are

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I'm not sure how they were made to be

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honest they're like a plastic material

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yeah but I'm not sure if they're printed

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or how they're produced but yeah so it's

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um it's it's a matter of you know it's

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not band night so snap snap together so

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you kind of have to know how to make it

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stay together so it doesn't fall apart

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so the you know the process as far as

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building a resin kit as especially a

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full resin kit is if the parts don't fit

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how do I fix that how do I make sure

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when I put the arms on they're going to

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fall off um like I could pick this guy

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up by his crotch and he is super super

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solid with the exception of The Shield

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cuz he's just kind of pegged in are

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these panel lines part of the kit or are

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they panel lines you've scribed in are

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so they're part of the kit but the very

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first step I do on a kit like this is I

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go back and I

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all the prep primer and paint that are

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going to go onto it that will diminish

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the L that will fill them in and if I do

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if I don't do that I try to go do a

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panel wash and there's nothing there

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right so very first step is to go

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through and Scribe all the panel lines

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nice and deep um just in prep for all

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the the uh prep work that it's going to

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go into the so clean these these 45

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degree angles or and that's that's

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interesting you say that because that's

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a very indicative to gumla yeah all

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these really kind of harsh angles and

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things even on these really curved

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surfaces it's all the different angles

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and the way the panels are kind of

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scribed and delineated kind of gives it

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that aesthetic yes so you got scale in

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scale yeah so you got kind of this

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organic shape with all these really cool

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angled panels on it so it's kind of it's

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kind of a really beautiful mix looks

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absolutely all right so you're deepening

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the panel line you're engineering the

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assembly making sure it's all red lot of

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magnets in the sky yeah okay so the arms

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are magnetized those come off the back

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skirt is magnetized can we take an arm

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off can we take a look so I can take you

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okay so this comes off and I've got a

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wire right there cuz that's the

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thrusters are lit yeah and now if I

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we'll do some disassembly so I take that

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off so I have to give a website a shout

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out because lighting this was a

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challenge to me I'm not one to light

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things so when Joseph said he wanted

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this lit I'm like I got to figure that

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out there's a company called Evans

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design and they spec specifically cater

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to scale modelers so I called them like

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I've got this project we have everything

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you need kind of told them what I wanted

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to do and they it's it's play might I

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take a look go right ahead so as a resin

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kit the sub assemblies aren't part of it

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necessar no no I have to make all the

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subassemblies you're making them and

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you're painting them to still look like

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they are layered correct so like inside

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of all these details I brought all these

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little panels out that's all done with

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masking and panel lining so like this

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shoulder alone probably has 30 or 40

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pieces in it wow yeah so just it's all

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just done with layering so if I put that

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down now this

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arm just hold it there's a

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magnet if I take this

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[Music]

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off there's a magnet there it's also

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kind of a pressure

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fit if I take this off I could actually

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take this off a little bit this arm does

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come out but this is also magnetized so

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I've also designed this to um be able to

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get into the wiring if needed it's a

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really tight fit but there we

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go and you're painting subassemblies as

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you go so the way the way I handle this

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is um I do it's it's various stages of

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prep and paint so the very first thing I

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do like describe the P lines I do a

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light sanding on everything uh on resin

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kits you have what's called a gate which

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what like it' be the same thing from a

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sprew when you cut it off it's a little

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a little nib yep same thing it's a gate

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but it's where they poured the resin

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into the mold yep take care of old

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uh take care of those there's any uh

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mold lines or mold slips like you know a

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two-part mold you got two parts of

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silicone sometimes they'll do this kind

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of thing so you get step sometimes

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they'll sand out sometime I got a putty

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and redo some sculpting this one this

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kit is really good I just had some

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slight mold lines but there's 340 pieces

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so at

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345 times I have to go through and get

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all the mold lines out sand them out

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scribe uh all that fun stuff so that's

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why it takes so long every kit it's a

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it's a different you're not building

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five of these you're you're kind of

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figuring out your workflow laying all

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the parts out so like this is magnetized

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and if I were to continue taking this

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apart I could take the the top of the

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Torso off you'd see where all the wires

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connect yeah so after the um scribing

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initial cleanup of mold lines gate

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removal and stuff like that it's time to

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give it a really good bath I'm neurotic

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about cleaning resin because of molder

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lease so when they're casting a resin

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kit they've got to spray of mold

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releasee in the in the mold so the resin

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doesn't stick yep and they can reuse

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those molds over and over again it gets

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a bath and an ultra sunic cleaner then I

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lay down my first cutter primer and now

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we start more

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sanding if you don't like to build if

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you don't like the sand don't build

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models I would say 60% of it is sanding

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yeah so then the primer acts as a guide

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coat so when I do that first round of

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primer I'd say 90% of it gets sanded off

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I'm looking for the the panel or the

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print line I mentioned um cuz you can't

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see them by the eye but when you start

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sing they start to come out um any

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little imperfections in the resin those

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get sanded out again mold lines mold

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slips so that's the first round of

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primer goes gets another bath ultrasonic

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give it a bath second round of primer

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now I'm really really getting in there

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with like an optivizor you know

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magnifying glass and looking for any

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little

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imperfections and I'm Mark them with a

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sharpie and that Sharpie now ex as a

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sanding guy so if I see a mold line I

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just kind of go over it and that's I

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saying once the Sharpie is gone I know

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it's gone so then I do one more kind of

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round of spot priming now it's finally

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ready for

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paint so this took six weeks just to

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prep before paint no three weeks of it

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was prep okay A little over three weeks

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was just prep before I put any color on

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it and that's and this is a really good

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kit you get you get one that's not so

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good you're it's going to take

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longer so now the

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paint um so way I kind of the way I do

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red um I usually put down a black base

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coat first and then all the highlighting

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you see is underneath the red and I

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highlight with white and I can control

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the contrast of that shading with how

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far do I get close to that panel line

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how much do I blend the white paint to

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kind of mute the black and so there's a

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kind of a fine line it's all personal

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preference on that step when I think of

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it it's the other way around where

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shading go on top but you're high that's

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supposed to be revealing but you're

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actually revealing the under coat corre

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correct so the way I do is on this par

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on a gunam is called pre-shading where

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you're doing the highlighting and Shadow

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underneath the color if you're doing on

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top it's called post shading got it so

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you got pre and post shading um I know

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some painters that do Post shading and

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it looks beautiful yeah it's a little

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harder to do in my opinion because once

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that color is on you have to be super

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super accurate with that shading any

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little inconsistency is going to show up

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big time and it tends to be a little

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more Punchy too a little more contrast

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but I can control the contrast with how

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much I blend that white paint so for

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instance on this like um like on the

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shoulder is a good

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example it and it doesn't show up in in

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photos most of the time it's very subtle

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you know so I'll go and I'll add white

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highlights in between all these panels

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and bring that really really bright and

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I back off my airbrush and I start

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misting white on it until I think looks

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pretty good and then I don't put the red

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on until at least the next day CU that

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paint's going to dry down and that's

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going to show me the contrast I have so

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the next

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day I'll look at it if I need to feel

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like I need to blend it in a little more

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I will but after you've done it for a

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while you kind of know when to stop that

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fits your taste so this one once I got

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that done the next day was the red and

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this is all Mr color paints by the way

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which is my favorite paint for the red

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it's real simple I do a Mist coat and

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then one wet coat and that's it cuz you

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don't want to hide that shading work

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right now I could add more red and it's

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not going to really hide it it's going

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to change the um Vibrance a little bit

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maybe a little bit of the um opacity but

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you just kind of you do it slowly so you

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do one test piece you let it dry down

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seal it so you know what it's going to

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look like in the end and then once

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you're happy there then you can continue

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doing on everything else so that's how I

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do red black white highlight blend a

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little bit red color is a lot of masking

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as well yeah we love masking s Mas if

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you don't like to sand or mask don't

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build off particularly in Gundam since

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it's such depending on what you're doing

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some of the other guys who like do

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weathered stuff you're not trying to be

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so precise maybe yeah but when you're

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doing something like this that's really

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clean the masking is a big part of it um

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if I take the shield off

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here you can see all this oh wow all

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that work oh my gosh you order of

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operations yeah be incredibly precise

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yeah so a new razor blade and

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um wow and there's also an order of

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painting when you're masking depending

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if you're airbrushing or hand painting

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at least for me if I'm if I know I'm

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going to do masking I work my way from

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the bottom up because what I want to do

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especially on something like the shield

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and if I took the the leg armors off it

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have all this detail underneath same

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thing um so I work from the lowest spot

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get that color down put these little

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silver then I mask it and that doesn't

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get un masked until the very that

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masking tape stays on till the very end

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so so you don't even know if you've Miss

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masked or anything there will be some

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touchups here and there but it's I've

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gotten pretty good at it I've gotten

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pretty good at it um so yeah the masking

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so I always start from the lowest spot

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get that color down let it dry overnight

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mask it next color just work my way up

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and then the fun part is taking the tape

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off right where you like this it's the

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reveal yes like okay my work has paid

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off yes um and then the next step I do

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on this on these I'll put down a high

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gloss coat

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um sometimes I use an automotive 2K

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clear or this is but on this one I use

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just the Mr color clear uh there's a Mr

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color has a line of paints called GX

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it's like a higher pigmented it's like

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their higher line higher end paints it

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looks great and um if you know how to

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spray you can get glass-like finish and

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it's just technique as far as getting

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that look and once that's cured now it's

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time for the markings this kit came with

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dry transfers instead of water slides so

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um and the way those work it's on a

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plastic backing and you cut them out

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individually use some clear masking tape

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get it in place and you only get one

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shot it's not like a decal where if you

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kind of you can play with it you get one

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shot and then you rub it on with a a

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blunt object and it releases from that

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backing yeah the challenge I had with

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this kit because it's an old kit it's

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been sitting in the closet for 15 years

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those dyed transfers were dry they've

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dried out so as I was cutting the some

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of the the dry transfers off of the the

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field some of the letters were releasing

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off that field

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so um oh it's on the back side but I

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don't want to turn it around but like

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for instance I was taking this one off

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and there's a a number zero and the

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letter N I went to go put it on and it

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was still on the protect the protective

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paper so I had to surgically yeah Place

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some all those letters wow um

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luckily I was able to use like 98% of

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them with no problem um so yeah but but

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the great thing about dry transfers they

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are super flat and they look painted on

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even even water even really good SL

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water slide decal sometimes depending on

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the Finish you use you can kind of see a

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little the Border a little border yeah

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but I always say flat flat coat's your

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friend because it does two things it

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really shows off the shading and it

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shows it it hides a lot of little incons

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you know little you know inconsistency

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made little mistakes that do I dare say

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but um flat is your friend I like it cuz

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especially on gum because it really

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shows shading off if you start adding

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gloss to it it kind of kills it a little

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bit so yeah so then after that it's the

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the flat coat uh final assembly uh for

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the lighting on this one like I said I'm

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not one to light things actually uh

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hollowed out the legs from the hip all

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the way down to the foot and there's a

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38 inch brass tube not only acts as a

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pin a pin is something you use to hold

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two pieces together it's either for

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stability or just to kind of hold it

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together while you work so that's pined

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the legs together and that's my conduit

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for all the white

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um so yeah so and then everything else

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is um there's some pins here and there

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magnets like for shipping purposes the

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fuel tanks come off this comes off the

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side scripts will come off um the head

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comes off it plugs in um but yeah that's

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kind of like my process and it just you

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know it's timec consuming it's

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absolutely six weeks of work on this

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yeah a little over six weeks and to make

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take a you know over decade old resin

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kit to make it look like a manufactured

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thing at scale yeah you know and and

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there's a great variety of I think like

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especially newer guys are intimidated by

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resin I actually find it easier to work

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with in plastic personally I come from

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an automotive body background so just

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Bondo and sanding and all to me it's

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like working with Bondo it's just a

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different shape but it's actually it's

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relatively easy you just have to know

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how to fix things in castings that may

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not be so perfect that's where people

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get intimidated they see something and

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they don't know how to fix it so it's

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sanding putty work stuff like that sing

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masking love it it's you know it's

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taking those basic skills that you learn

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and just kind of bringing them up a

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level yeah well fantastic work Matt

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thank you um incredible and and to see

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all details as you're taking pieces off

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on the other side something only the

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final collector is going to see that's

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great that's great aome thank you

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pleasure so much thanks for

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chatting thank you for watching that

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video I want to tell you about our

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dearit badges because we know that being

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a is a lifelong Enterprise of trying new

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things and learning new skills and it is

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also about repeatedly messing everything

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up and we like to celebrate that because

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failure is not just an option it is

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intrinsic to the creative process and to

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that end we have three new bundles of

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demerit badges right now on tested

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dstore

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docomo tool fails demerit badge bundle

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up here on top here in the middle we

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have the everyday whoops demerit badge

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bundle and at the bottom we've got my

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favorite the happens demerit badge

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bundle you can get any one of these

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bundles and we are considering offering

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a bundle of all 24 not those of all 24

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demerit badges we have released but

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we're not sure what to call it you have

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a suggestion put it in the comments

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