How Dave Macleod Jumped 4 Grades in Only 1.5 Years

Summary

In this interview, the climber discusses their significant leap from 8B to 8C+, equivalent to 13d to 14c in American grading, over 18 months. They attribute this to consistent fingerboard training, which was not common in the early 2000s. The climber emphasizes the importance of identifying and addressing personal weaknesses, suggesting that their strong technique allowed them to leverage increased finger strength for a dramatic improvement in climbing grade. They also touch on the contrast between high-intensity, high-frequency, low-volume sessions and the more traditional approach of fewer, longer training sessions, reflecting on the lack of scientific evidence guiding such training decisions.

Takeaways

• 🧗 The speaker made a significant leap in climbing grades from 8B to 8C+ (13d to 14c) in 18 months.
• 💪 Regular and consistent fingerboard training was a key factor in the speaker's strength improvement.
• 🔍 The speaker emphasizes the importance of identifying and training weak areas in climbing.
• 🏞 The speaker's climbing apprenticeship and diverse rock types experience contributed to a strong technical foundation.
• 🏋️‍♂️ The speaker's training approach involved high frequency and intensity but low volume sessions.
• 🤔 The speaker suggests that without a solid technique, increased finger strength might not significantly improve climbing grades.
• 🧠 The speaker values the combination of technique, tactics, and strength in climbing performance.
• 🔄 The speaker experimented with different training protocols, including daily fingerboarding sessions.
• 🌟 The speaker noticed a marked increase in strength after consistent fingerboarding during the off-season.
• 🧐 The speaker acknowledges the lack of scientific studies on finger strength training and relies on personal experience and sports science principles.

Q & A

What significant improvement did the climber experience in their climbing grade?

The climber made a significant leap from climbing grade 8B to 8C+, which for Americans is equivalent to an improvement from 13d to 14c, in about 18 months.

What was the primary method the climber used to enhance their finger strength?

The climber started doing basic finger strength training on a fingerboard regularly and consistently, which allowed for a big jump in finger strength.

Why was fingerboarding not as common in the early 2000s according to the climber?

The climber mentioned that during the early 2000s, fingerboarding was not as widely used as it is today, especially in 2020 where it's almost standard practice among climbers.

How did the climber's background in climbing techniques influence their training approach?

The climber's background in various climbing techniques and growing up in a climbing culture that values technique allowed them to leverage their increased finger strength more effectively, leading to a significant increase in climbing grade.

What was the climber's initial reaction to their plateau at 13d grade level?

The climber realized they were stuck at the 13d grade level for the first time in a long while, which prompted them to change their training tactics and try something different.

What specific training routine did the climber adopt to overcome their plateau?

The climber started fingerboarding about six days a week for about 30 minutes, including warm-up, focusing on a few sets per grip type.

How did the climber's training approach differ from what is commonly advocated in the climbing community?

The climber's approach was high frequency and low volume, with daily short sessions, contrasting with the more common advice of one to two longer sessions per week.

What is the climber's perspective on the lack of scientific evidence for different finger strength training protocols?

The climber acknowledges the absence of hard scientific evidence comparing different finger strength training methods and suggests that most recommendations are based on personal experience and knowledge from other sports.

Why did the climber choose to experiment with a high-frequency training approach?

The climber was influenced by observing professional athletes from various sports who train daily and seem to benefit from such a regimen, leading them to test this approach in their own climbing training.

What was the outcome of the climber's experiment with daily fingerboarding sessions?

The climber experienced a fantastic increase in strength when they returned to their climbing projects after following the daily fingerboarding routine.

How does the climber suggest understanding the effectiveness of different training frequencies and volumes?

The climber suggests that without hard scientific evidence, understanding the effectiveness of different training frequencies and volumes relies on a combination of basic physiology, borrowing from other sports, and personal experience.