Northern Spain and the Camino de Santiago

Summary

Rick Steves takes viewers on a thrilling journey through Spain, exploring the Camino de Santiago, Europe's ultimate pilgrimage route. The episode features the exhilarating Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, serene moments of reflection along the trail, and the cultural richness of towns like Burgos and León. The pilgrimage's spiritual culmination at Santiago de Compostela's cathedral offers a profound experience, highlighting the journey's blend of adventure, history, and personal growth.

Takeaways

• 🏃 The Camino de Santiago is a historic pilgrimage route in Europe, attracting travelers for centuries to the remains of St. James in Santiago de Compostela.
• 📜 Pilgrims receive a 'pilgrim's passport' to get stamped at each stop, symbolizing their journey and eligibility for a compostela certificate.
• 🎉 The Festival of San Fermín in Pamplona is a vibrant event featuring the Running of the Bulls, deeply rooted in tradition and famously depicted in literature.
• 🏛 The Camino route is marked by yellow arrows and scallop shells, the latter being a historical symbol of the pilgrimage.
• 🛡 Pamplona's rich history includes being the capital of the medieval kingdom of Navarre, now known for its energy and festivals.
• 🗽 The Gothic cathedral in Burgos is a significant landmark on the Camino, reflecting the region's historical importance and architectural grandeur.
• 🚶‍♂️ Walking the Camino offers a unique opportunity for reflection and spiritual contemplation, as well as physical challenge.
• 🏰 The route passes through various towns and landmarks, each with its own historical and cultural significance, like the 12th-century church in Puente de la Reina.
• 🎨 The Camino's influence contributed to the exchange of art, architecture, and knowledge during the Middle Ages, enriching the cultural landscape of Europe.
• 🌳 The journey through Galicia offers a serene and green landscape, contrasting with the common perceptions of Spain and highlighting its Celtic heritage.
• 🏰 Upon reaching Santiago de Compostela, pilgrims are greeted by the cathedral, the final destination and a place of spiritual significance, where they can embrace the statue of St. James.

Q & A

What is the significance of the Camino de Santiago?

The Camino de Santiago, also known as the 'Way of St. James,' is Europe's ultimate pilgrimage route. Since the Middle Ages, it has been a path for pilgrims to walk hundreds of miles across North Spain to pay homage to the remains of St. James in Santiago de Compostela.

What is the traditional starting point of the Camino de Santiago?

The traditional starting point of the Camino de Santiago is the French Basque town of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, located just five miles before the Spanish border.

What is a 'composteala' certificate, and how is it obtained by pilgrims?

A compostela certificate is a document that proves a pilgrim has walked the entire Camino de Santiago. Pilgrims obtain it by getting a pilgrim's passport stamped at each stop along the route.

What is the symbol of the Camino de Santiago, and what does it represent?

The scallop shell is the symbol of the Camino de Santiago. It represents both St. James and the pilgrimage itself. Medieval pilgrims wore them as a badge of honor to prove they completed the journey.

What is the Festival of San Fermín, and what is its main event?

The Festival of San Fermín is an exuberant festival held in Pamplona, Spain, every July. Its main event is the Running of the Bulls, where participants run in front of a stampede of bulls through the city streets.

Why is the red bandana a significant part of the Festival of San Fermín?

The red bandana is a significant part of the Festival of San Fermín as it serves as a distant reminder of the martyrdom of Saint Fermín, the patron saint of the region, who was decapitated in the second century for his faith.

How did Ernest Hemingway influence the fame of Pamplona and the Running of the Bulls?

Ernest Hemingway first came to Pamplona for the Running of the Bulls in 1923 and later wrote his bullfighting classic 'The Sun Also Rises,' which was inspired by the spectacle. His writings put Pamplona and its festival on the world map, attracting international attention.

What is the significance of the Gothic cathedral in Burgos?

The Gothic cathedral in Burgos is significant as it was the capital of the kingdom of Castile for five centuries. It is an awe-inspiring architectural feat, designed by French architects in the 13th century and adorned with lacy spires added by German architects in the 14th century.

What is the historical importance of the Church of San Isidoro in León?

The Church of San Isidoro in León is historically important as it houses some of the most sublime medieval art in Spain, including rare Romanesque frescoes painted around the year 1100. It is also the final resting place of 20 kings of León.

What is the significance of the Gate of Forgiveness in Villafranca del Bierzo?

The Gate of Forgiveness in Villafranca del Bierzo is significant because, historically, pilgrims who reached this point and were too sick to continue their journey to Santiago could stop here and still consider their pilgrimage a success, thanks to a compassionate pope's decision five hundred years ago.

What is the cultural significance of the region of Galicia in the context of the Camino de Santiago?

Galicia, the region through which the final leg of the Camino de Santiago passes, is culturally significant for its lush green landscapes, Celtic heritage, and distinct language, Galego. It offers pilgrims a unique and serene experience as they approach the end of their journey.

What is the spiritual significance of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela for pilgrims?

The cathedral in Santiago de Compostela holds the tomb of St. James and is the final destination of the Camino de Santiago. For pilgrims, it is a place of spiritual climax where they give thanks, reflect on their journey, and celebrate their spiritual or personal triumph.

Outlines

00:00

🏃‍♂️ Running with the Bulls and the Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage

Rick Steves introduces the episode with an exciting preview of participating in the bull run in Pamplona and the spiritual journey along the Camino de Santiago. The Camino de Santiago, a historic pilgrimage route, has seen a resurgence in popularity. Pilgrims from the Middle Ages and modern travelers alike are drawn to its rich history and cultural significance. The route begins in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, crossing the Pyrenees into Spain, passing through cities like Pamplona, Burgos, León, and finally reaching Santiago de Compostela. The journey offers a unique blend of sightseeing, cultural experiences, and personal reflection.

05:01

🎉 Hemingway's Influence and the Festival of San Fermín

This paragraph delves into the legacy of Ernest Hemingway, who was inspired by Pamplona's Running of the Bulls and immortalized it in his novel 'The Sun Also Rises.' Hemingway's experiences in Pamplona brought international attention to the town and its festival. The Festival of San Fermín is described as a vibrant and exuberant celebration with deep historical roots, honoring the town's patron saint. The narrative captures the excitement of the bull run, the cultural festivities, and the nightly bullfights, reflecting on the mix of tradition, tourism, and Hemingway's enduring impact on the city.

10:05

🛤️ The Pilgrimage Route and Its Historical Significance

The script discusses the journey along the Camino de Santiago, highlighting the historical and cultural importance of towns like Puente de la Reina, with its ancient bridge, and Burgos, known for its majestic Gothic cathedral. The paragraph emphasizes the religious and political significance of the pilgrimage during the Reconquista and the Middle Ages, as well as the personal reflections and spiritual experiences of modern pilgrims. It also touches on the architectural and artistic contributions of the pilgrimage to the region, including the Romanesque art found in the church of San Isidoro.

15:08

🏰 The Rich Heritage of León and the Journey's Challenges

The narrative continues with the city of León, famous for its 13th-century Gothic cathedral and the Church of San Isidoro, which houses the 'Sistine Chapel of the Romanesque age.' The paragraph explores the artistic and cultural exchanges that occurred due to the continuous flow of pilgrims. It also describes the physical and emotional challenges faced by pilgrims on the Camino, including the symbolic act of leaving behind a stone to represent unloading personal burdens. The discussion includes the historical context of the pilgrimage's popularity and its decline and resurgence over the centuries.

20:12

🌳 The Celtic Charm of Galicia and the Triumphant Arrival in Santiago

The final paragraph of the script takes the viewer through the lush and green landscapes of Galicia, with its Celtic heritage and unique cultural identity. It describes the pilgrims' arrival in Santiago de Compostela, a city with a powerful historical and religious significance. The narrative captures the essence of the city's architecture, market, and cuisine, as well as the spiritual climax of the pilgrimage at the cathedral of St. James. The paragraph concludes with a reflection on the personal journeys of the pilgrims and the joy of reaching their destination, emphasizing the importance of enjoying life's journey, regardless of the path chosen.

Keywords

💡Camino de Santiago

The Camino de Santiago, literally the 'Way of St. James,' is a historical pilgrimage route across North Spain to the city of Santiago de Compostela. It is central to the video's theme as it represents the journey and the spiritual quest of the pilgrims. The script describes it as Europe's ultimate pilgrimage route and a rediscovered ancient pathway that modern travelers are increasingly exploring.

💡Pilgrim

A pilgrim is a traveler who undertakes a journey to a holy or significant place out of religious devotion. In the context of the video, pilgrims are individuals who walk the Camino de Santiago, seeking spiritual enlightenment, historical appreciation, or personal growth. The script follows the experiences of these pilgrims as they trek across Spain.

💡Santiago de Compostela

Santiago de Compostela is the final destination of the Camino de Santiago and the city where the remains of St. James are believed to be buried. It is a focal point in the script as the ultimate goal of the pilgrimage, symbolizing both a physical and spiritual destination for the travelers.

💡Running of the Bulls

The Running of the Bulls is an annual event in Pamplona, Spain, where participants run in front of a group of bulls being released through the streets. The script describes this event as one of Europe's most exuberant festivals, showcasing the cultural excitement and the adventurous spirit of the region.

💡Romanesque Art

Romanesque Art refers to the artistic style prevalent in Europe from the 11th to the 13th centuries, characterized by its use in churches and monasteries, featuring heavy stone structures and round arches. The video script mentions Romanesque art in the context of the magnificent churches and art found along the Camino, reflecting the historical and cultural richness of the pilgrimage route.

💡Festival of San Fermín

The Festival of San Fermín is celebrated in Pamplona and is most famous for the Running of the Bulls. The script describes this festival as a deeply rooted tradition that honors the city's patron saint, involving processions, parties, and a festive atmosphere that attracts visitors from around the world.

💡Ernest Hemingway

Ernest Hemingway was an American author who is celebrated in Pamplona for his connection to the Running of the Bulls and his novel 'The Sun Also Rises.' The script mentions Hemingway as a literary giant who helped put Pamplona on the world map, illustrating the cultural impact of the festival and its significance in the history of the city.

💡Albergue

An albergue is a pilgrim's hostel or shelter, typically found along the Camino de Santiago. The script describes these as humble hostels that provide nearly free beds for pilgrims, serving as essential rest stops along the journey, fostering a sense of community and camaraderie among travelers.

💡Gothic Cathedral

A Gothic Cathedral is a large church or cathedral in the Gothic architectural style, known for its pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and flying buttresses. The script refers to the awe-inspiring Gothic cathedral in Burgos, which is a testament to the city's historical significance and the architectural splendor found along the Camino.

💡Plateresque Style

The Plateresque Style is a Spanish architectural and decorative style that flourished during the late Gothic period, characterized by ornate and intricate detailing. The script mentions the Plateresque style in the context of the Burgos cathedral, highlighting the artistic richness of the region and the unique cultural expressions found in Spain.

💡Galicia

Galicia is an autonomous community in northwest Spain, known for its lush green landscapes and Celtic heritage. The script describes Galicia as the gateway to the final stretch of the Camino de Santiago, offering a distinct cultural and natural environment that shapes the pilgrims' final experiences and the overall narrative of the journey.

Highlights

Rick Steves introduces the Camino de Santiago as Europe's ultimate pilgrimage route.

The Camino has been rediscovered in recent generations, attracting more pilgrims to the ancient pathway.

The journey begins at St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a traditional gathering point for pilgrims before crossing the Pyrenees.

Pilgrims receive a pilgrim's passport to be stamped at each stop, symbolizing their progress on the Camino.

The route is well-marked with yellow arrows and scallop shells, the latter being a symbol of St. James and the Camino.

Pamplona, with its rich traditions, is known for the exuberant Festival of San Fermín and the Running of the Bulls.

The Festival of San Fermín honors Saint Fermín and features processions, parties, and the iconic red bandanas.

Ernest Hemingway's presence in Pamplona is celebrated, and his novel 'The Sun Also Rises' brought international attention to the Running of the Bulls.

The Running of the Bulls is a thrilling but dangerous event with a history of injuries and fatalities.

Bullfighting in Pamplona's arena is considered an art form by some, despite its controversial nature.

The Camino route offers a sightseeing experience and life lessons for those who take the journey, even if not completing the entire pilgrimage.

Burgos, an important city on the Camino, features a stunning Gothic cathedral and a rich history.

The Camino de Santiago played a political role during the Reconquista, fueling the European passion to retake Spain from the Muslim Moors.

León's 13th-century Gothic cathedral and the Church of San Isidoro showcase the rich artistic and architectural heritage along the Camino.

The pilgrimage encourages introspection and personal growth, with pilgrims seeking balance, silence, and a closer connection to God.

Galicia, the gateway to the end of the pilgrimage, offers a lush and green landscape with a distinct Celtic heritage.

Santiago de Compostela, the final destination, is a city with a powerful historical and cultural significance for Europe.

The cathedral in Santiago, with the tomb of St. James, is a place of jubilation and spiritual reflection for pilgrims.

Rick Steves concludes by emphasizing the importance of enjoying the journey, whatever path one chooses to follow.

Transcripts

Hi.

I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe.

This time we're all getting pumped up to run with the bulls in Pamplona...and if I survive

that, we'll join the pilgrims - gratefully - as they hike to Santiago in northwest Spain.

Thanks for joining us.

The Camino de Santiago - literally the "Way of St. James" - is Europe's ultimate pilgrimage

route.

Since the Middle Ages, pilgrims have walked hundreds of miles across North Spain to pay

homage to the remains of St. James in the city named for him, Santiago de Compostela.

And in our generation the route's been rediscovered, and more and more pilgrims are traveling this

ancient pathway.

In this episode we'll enjoy a raucous festival, survive a stampede, witness drama in the arena,

join pilgrims as they trek across Spain, ponder magnificent Romanesque art, attend a swingin'

Mass, and share in the jubilation of a pilgrimage completed.

During medieval times, Spain became an important pilgrimage destination.

Pilgrims from all over Europe journeyed to Santiago de Compostela in the northwest of

Spain.

We'll join the main route, starting in the Pyrenees at St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, stopping

in Pamplona, Burgos, León, and on through the region of Galicia to Santiago.

While dedicating a month of your life to walk the Camino may be admirable, it doesn't work

for everyone.

But any traveler can use this route as a sightseeing spine and as an opportunity to appreciate

some of the joys and lessons that come with being a pilgrim.

Just five miles before the Spanish border stands the French Basque town of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

Traditionally, Santiago-bound pilgrims would gather here to cross the Pyrenees and continue

their march through Spain.

Visitors to this popular town are a mix of tourists and pilgrims.

At the Camino office, pilgrims check in before their long journey to Santiago.

They pick up a kind of pilgrim's passport.

They'll get it stamped at each stop to prove they walked the whole way and earn their compostela

certificate.

Walking the entire 500-mile long route takes about five weeks - that's about 15 miles a

day, with an occasional day of rest.

The route is well-marked with yellow arrows and scallop shells.

The scallop shell is the symbol of both St. James and the Camino.

Common on the Galician coast, the shells were worn by medieval pilgrims as a badge of honor

to prove they made it.

The traditional gear has barely changed: a gourd - for drinking water - just the right

walking stick, and a scallop shell dangling from each backpack.

Pamplona, the historic capital of the province of Navarre, with its imposing ramparts, is

the first major city pilgrims encounter.

Traditionally they enter the city through this gate.

At its peak in the Middle Ages, Navarre was a grand kingdom that controlled parts of today's

Spain and France.

Today Pamplona has a distinct energy - with its rich traditions and famous festival.

We're here in early July for the Festival of San Fermín - and that means the Running

of the Bulls - one of Europe's most exuberant festivals.

For nine days each July, throngs of visitors - most dressed in the traditional white with

red sashes and kerchiefs - come to run with the bulls and a whole lot more.

The festival, which packs the city, has deep roots.

For centuries the people of this region have honored Saint Fermín, their patron saint,

with processions and parties.

He was decapitated in the second century for his faith and the red bandanas you see everywhere

are a distant reminder of his martyrdom.

And y'know...I don't think anyone on this square knows, or even cares.

But at the Church of San Fermín [actually Church of San Lorenzo], it's a capacity crowd...and

there's no question what to wear for this Mass.

To this day, locals look to their hometown saint for protection.

Back out on the streets, it's a party for young and old.

There's plenty of fun for kids.

And towering giants add a playful mystique to the festivities.

The literary giant, Ernest Hemingway, is celebrated by Pamplona as if he were a native son.

Hemingway first came here for the first time for the 1923 Running of the Bulls.

Inspired by the spectacle, he later wrote his bullfighting classic The Sun Also Rises.

He said he enjoyed seeing two wild animals running together: one on two legs, and the

other on four.

Hemingway put Pamplona on the world map.

When he first visited, it was a dusty town of 30,000 with an obscure bullfighting festival.

Now, a million people a year come here for one of the world's great parties.

After dark, the town erupts into a rollicking party scene.

While the craziness rages day and night, the city's well organized and, even with all the

alcohol, it feels in control and things go smoothly.

Amazingly, in just a few hours, this same street will host a very different spectacle.

The Running of the Bulls takes place early each morning.

Spectators claim a vantage point along the barrier at the crack of dawn.

Early in the morning?

Nope, for many of these revelers...it's still late at night.

The anticipation itself is thrilling.

Security crews sweep those not running out of the way.

Shop windows and doors are boarded up.

Fencing is set up to keep the bulls on course and protect the crowd.

The runners are called mozos.

While many are just finishing up a night of drinking, others train for the event.

They take the ritual seriously, and run every year.

At 8:00, a rocket is fired and the mozos take off.

Moments later a second rocket means the bulls have been released.

They stampede half a mile through the town from their pens to the bullfighting arena.

At full gallop, it goes by fast.

Bulls thunder through the entire route in just two

and a half minutes.

The mozos try to run in front of the bulls for as long as possible - usually just a few

seconds - before diving out of the way.

They say on a good run you feel the breath of the bull on the back of your legs.

Cruel as this all seems for the bulls - who scramble for footing on the cobblestones as

they rush toward their doom in the bullring - the human participants don't come out unscathed.

Each year, dozens of people are gored or trampled.

Over the last century, 15 mozos have been killed at the event.

After it's done, people gather for breakfast and review the highlights on TV.

All day long, local channels replay that morning's spectacle.

The finale of the event each day is in the evening when crowds fill the bull ring.

Pamplona's arena, the third biggest in the world (after Madrid and Mexico City) is sold

out each day of the festival.

One by one the bulls that ran that morning explode out of the gate to meet their matador

- first the picadores...then the banderilleros...and finally

the matador in his sparkling suit of light.

While cruel brutality to many, others still consider bullfighting an art form.

It's hard for me to appreciate, but to the Spaniards who pack this arena, there's a nobility

to the beast and an elegance to the fight.

Good matadors are like rock stars - they perform with drama, daring, and grace.

With each thrilling pass, the crowds cheer until the bull meets his predictable end.

If the fight is deemed a good one, the people wave kerchiefs and call for a trophy to be

awarded.

For this fight, the matador is given an ear from his victim and struts triumphantly around

the arena.

The festival's energy courses through the city.

Overlooking the main square, the venerable Café Iruña pulses with music and dance.

Enjoying the scene, with its delightful 1888 interior, I'm impressed by the joyful enthusiasm

the people of this town have for their festival of San Fermín.

After the commotion of Pamplona, getting back on the pilgrimage trail brings a welcoming

peace.

From here the hills give way to Spain's vast high plain.

A day's walk west of Pamplona, the town of Puente de la Reina (or "the queen's bridge")

retains a pilgrim's vibe.

Its graceful bridge dates from the 11th century, and pilgrims have been crossing it ever since.

Narrow main streets are typical of Camino towns.

They were born as a collection of pilgrim services flanking the path - places to eat,

sleep, heal, and pray.

This 12th-century church, with a stork's nest guarding its steeple, is thought to be founded

by the Knights Templar, who came to protect pilgrims along the route.

Its stark Romanesque interior features a distinctive Y-shaped crucifix - likely carried all the

way across Europe to this spot by pilgrims from Germany.

I can imagine how, six or seven hundred years ago, the weary faithful would sit right here,

gaze up at their savior, and be inspired to carry on.

A five-day walk - or a two-hour drive for us - brings us to our next stop: Burgos.

It's a pedestrian-friendly city straddling its river.

Stately plane trees line the riverside promenade, giving shade through the hot days.

Its main square seems designed to bring the community together.

Today's Burgos feels workaday, but with a hint of gentility and former power.

Like so many towns here in the north of Spain, it became important during the Reconquista

- that centuries-long struggle to push the Muslim Moors back into northern Africa from

where they came.

Its position on the Camino de Santiago and as a trading center helped it to flourish.

For five centuries Burgos was the capital of the kingdom of Castile.

It's dominated by an awe-inspiring Gothic cathedral - designed by French architects

in the 13th century, with its lacy spires added by German architects in the 14th.

The ornate exterior is matched by its lavish and brightly lit interior.

In Spain, the final flowering of the Gothic age was the elaborate Plateresque style.

As was typical of Gothic churches, it's ringed by richly decorated chapels built over the

centuries by, and for, wealthy parishioners.

This chapel is dedicated to Saint Anne, the Virgin Mary's mother.

Its 15th-century altar features the Tree of Jesse.

A sleepy and apparently very fertile Jesse slumbers at the bottom sprouting a lineage

that connects him to the holy child and virgin.

This sumptuous chapel marks the tomb of a regional governor and his wife under a brilliant

star-shaped vault.

It's striking for its gracefulness and femininity.

Inspirational as this cathedral is, the pilgrims have a long trek ahead of them.

The slow pace and need for frequent rest breaks provide plenty of opportunity for reflection,

religious and otherwise.

For some, leaving behind a stone symbolizes unloading a personal burden.

The first person to make this journey was Saint James himself.

After the death and resurrection of Christ, the apostles traveled far and wide to spread

the Christian message.

Supposedly, St. James went on a missionary trip from the Holy Land all the way to this

remote corner of northwest Spain.

According to legend, in the year 813 St. James' remains were discovered in the town that would

soon bear his name.

People began walking there to pay homage to his relics.

After a 12th-century pope decreed that the pilgrimage could earn forgiveness of your

sins, the popularity of the Camino de Santiago soared.

The Camino also served a political purpose.

It's no coincidence that the discovery of St. James' remains happened when Muslim Moors

controlled most of Spain.

The whole phenomenon of the Camino helped fuel the European passion to retake Spain

and push the Moors back into Africa.

But by about 1500, with the dawn of the Renaissance and the Reformation, interest in the Camino

died almost completely.

Then, in the 1960s, a handful of priests re-established the tradition.

The route has since enjoyed a huge resurgence, with 100,000 pilgrims trekking to Santiago

each year.

Eight days further down the trail is León, a sizable city with an enjoyable small-town

atmosphere.

Founded as a Roman camp in the first century, León gradually grew prosperous and was the

capital of its own kingdom for centuries.

Today's León is the youthful leading city of one of Spain's biggest provinces.

Its 13th-century Gothic cathedral, towering dramatically over the town center, must have

stoked the spirit of medieval Christians.

Through the Middle Ages, the steady flow of pilgrims from all across Europe inevitably

resulted in a rich exchange of knowledge, art, and architecture.

That's one reason why today, all along the Camino, you'll find magnificent churches and

exquisite art.

Just down the street, the relatively humble Church of San Isidoro houses some of the most

sublime medieval art in all of Spain.

This "Royal Pantheon," nicknamed the "Sistine Chapel of the Romanesque age," is the final

resting place of 20 kings of León.

Painted around the year 1100, this is a rare opportunity to see Romanesque frescoes in

situ (where they were originally intended).

The art shows a realism and movement rare in Romanesque art.

Stepping under these vaults, I can imagine the pilgrim centuries ago awe-struck by this

mystic beauty.

The angel announces to Mary, with billowing robes, she'll give birth to the Messiah.

All of nature - including goat herders in 11th-century attire - celebrates the news.

The story of Christ's life unfolds from there ending with the events leading up to the crucifixion:

After Jesus is condemned, Simon helps carry his cross.

Pontius Pilate washes his hands of the whole business, and Jesus is crucified.

Finally, Christ returns, triumphant over death, sitting on a rainbow and blessing those 20

royal tombs.

Further along the Camino, the terrain changes.

Pilgrims pass through rolling hills blanketed with vineyards.

The path leads to the small town of Villafranca del Bierzo, where they reach the 12th-century

Church of St. James with its famous Gate of Forgiveness.

The pilgrimage was an arduous trek and not everyone succeeded.

Five hundred years ago, thanks to a compassionate pope, it was decided that anyone who made

it this far and got sick and couldn't complete the journey over the rugged last stretch to

Santiago could stop here and call it a successful pilgrimage anyway.

Next to the church is a classic Camino albergue.

This 80-bed hostel is run by volunteers and provides 10,000 pilgrims a year with nearly

free beds.

At regular intervals all along the route, humble hostels like this give trail-weary

pilgrims a place to tend their needs - from nursing sore feet, to doing laundry.

Volunteers cook and serve communal meals.

A wonderful camaraderie percolates, as a multi-national community - young and old and of all beliefs

- is created.

The challenging journey encourages introspection and each pilgrim has their own motivation.

Rick: So, why have you taken this journey?

Pilgrim 1: For me, I suppose it's a bit kind of corny or cheesy but um, to find things

like a bit of balance again in life, you know I spend a lot of time in my job working in

an office, its sales, it's stressful, it's money-money-money, so it's nice to get out

on the open road, live out of a rucksack, just forget about cars and computers and motorways.

You know I was getting a bit tired and worn down by all that so for me hopefully, I'll

take back kind of a feeling of regeneration, renaissance.

Pilgrim 2: To learn just to live with the silence of the nature around you.

And you really feel ascent into a world that most of the time doesn't exist in big towns

like Berlin or New York or other towns because there is always something around you that

distracts you.

But when you are in villages like this here, yeah, and you only see the church and there's

nobody on the street, it's really calming.

Pilgrim 3: I think that you feel closer to God doing this Camino.

You feel closer to your own soul because you have time to think about yourself, about your

problems, about the things that you left at home and you feel closer to God, closer to

your own soul.

The final leg of the journey leads through lush and green Galicia.

And the gateway to Galicia is the rustic hamlet of O Cebreiro, perched high on a ridge.

The town welcomes pilgrims with ancient and characteristic stone huts.

The church, founded in the ninth century, is one of the oldest on the Camino route.

Pilgrims are sure to stop in for another stamp on their Camino credential.

Green and densely forested Galicia shatters visitors' preconceptions of Spain.

Pilgrims pass ghostly castles, simple farmhouses with slate roofs, and sleepy medieval villages.

Here, it's easy to see the Celtic heritage Galicians share with their cousins just across

the sea in Ireland.

After over a month on the trail, spirits are high as well-worn pilgrims reach their final

stop: the city of Santiago de Compostela.

Santiago has long had a powerful and mysterious draw on travelers.

This neat and sturdy city is built of granite.

Its arcaded streets are a reminder that winters here are cold and wet.

Strolling across its squares and under its grand churches, you can imagine a time when

the city was a religious and cultural powerhouse.

Santiago's heyday was the 12th century, when the notion of Europe was still in its infancy.

It served as a place where people from all corners came together, shared ideas, and then

dispersed.

In some ways, the very idea of Europe as a civilization jelled during this age.

And Santiago played an important role.

Apart from all the pilgrim action and its venerable architecture, Santiago is a workaday

town.

Its vibrant market offers a fine opportunity to sample the essentials of its hearty cuisine.

Farmers sell their produce.

The shapely cheeses are enjoyed by locals and visitors alike.

And the seafood is as fresh as can be.

A Galician specialty is octopus...prepared local style, or a la gallega.

After the tenderized octopus is boiled in a copper pot, it's snipped into bite-size

pieces.

It's topped with a mix of sweet and spicy paprika, sea salt, and olive oil, then served

on a wooden plate.

Eat it with toothpicks, never a fork.

People here have their own distinct language: Galego - it's a mix of Spanish and Portuguese.

Galicia's ancient Celtic roots are particularly evident in its music.

With wailing pipes and thundering drums, the Celtic heritage announces itself loud and

clear.

But nothing can distract the pilgrims as they take the final steps of their long journey.

Around the last corner, they reach the destination of a thousand years of pilgrims: the cathedral

that holds the tomb of St. James.

As millions of weary and exhilarated pilgrims have done before them, they stand before the

cathedral and are filled with jubilation.

But the religious climax for many lies within the cathedral.

Imagine you're a medieval pilgrim: You've just walked 500 miles - your journey is done.

Worshipping before the altar, you give thanks to St. James for a safe passage, and you reflect

on the lessons of your journey.

And, if you're here on a festival day, the Mass culminates with an enormous swinging

incense burner.

Gazing at the spectacle of this 120-pound burner flying through the air, you're awe-struck

by the wonder of God.

Finally, you climb the stony staircase behind the altar to the statue of St. James - studded

with precious gems.

Embracing him from behind, you take a moment to celebrate your spiritual - or personal

- triumph.

Our journey across northern Spain reminds me we all have choices.

Some will run with the bulls, others will trek with the pilgrims.

Whatever path you follow, don't forget to enjoy the journey.

I'm Rick Steves.

Till next time, keep on travelin' and buen camino!

Credits:

Rick: Hi I'm Rick Steves back with more of the best of Europe.

Buenos tardes, buenos tardes!

Rick: Don't forget to enjoy the journey.

I'm Rick Steves.

Until next time keep on travelin'.