How to Build Timber Wall Framing | Mitre 10 Easy As DIY

Summary

This instructional video script guides viewers through the process of building a non-load-bearing wall for a home renovation project. It covers measuring and cutting materials, marking and placing studs, installing a door frame, and securing the wall structure with nogs and a lintel. The script emphasizes precision in measurements, proper use of tools, and safety considerations, offering a step-by-step approach to constructing a sturdy interior wall.

Takeaways

• 🏠 Building a non-load-bearing wall involves creating a frame that is 3 meters long and 2.42 meters high, which is a standard height for framing.
• 📏 The wall requires a top and bottom plate each 3 meters long, full-length studs at each end, and additional studs spaced at 600 millimeters apart, or 400 millimeters for taller walls.
• 🚪 Planning for a door involves accounting for its width plus jambs (815 mm total) and ensuring there is enough clearance for the door to swing freely.
• 📝 A detailed plan is essential for calculating the amount of timber needed, with allowances for door installation and stud spacing.
• 🔨 When assembling the frame, use a nail gun or 90 mm flat head nails for interior work, ensuring the studs are straight and properly spaced.
• 🚪 The door frame requires under-studs on either side, which need to be measured and cut to accommodate the door's height and clearance.
• 🛠 'Nogs' or horizontal timber pieces are placed between studs every 800 millimeters to provide structural integrity to the frame.
• 🔍 Checking the frame's squareness is crucial, and adjustments should be made by knocking out corners or making slight adjustments to ensure the diagonal measurements are equal.
• 🔩 Securing the frame to the floor can be done with nails or bugle screws for timber floors, or with specific bolts for concrete floors.
• 🔩 The frame must also be securely fixed to the ceiling, ensuring it is plumb and attached to solid members without interfering with any wires.
• 📸 Documenting the final frame with photos and measurements is recommended for future reference and adjustments.

Q & A

What is the purpose of building a non-load-bearing wall?

The purpose of building a non-load-bearing wall is to create a partition in an open plan area or to divide a large room into two smaller rooms.

What are the standard dimensions for framing in the script?

The standard dimensions for framing mentioned in the script are 3 meters in length and 2,420 millimeters in height.

How wide is the door to be installed in the wall, including the door frame?

The door is 760 millimeters wide, and including the door frame, it is 800 millimeters wide.

What is the additional space needed for the door to fit into the frame?

An extra 15 millimeters is added to allow the door to slip into place, making the total width needed for the door 815 millimeters.

How far apart should the studs be spaced if the wall is up to three meters high?

If the wall is up to three meters high, the studs should be spaced every 400 millimeters.

What is the thickness of the top and bottom plates used for the frame?

The top and bottom plates used for the frame are 45 millimeters thick.

How many studs are needed for the frame, and what is their length?

Six studs are needed for the frame, each with a length of 2,330 millimeters.

Why is it recommended to consult a licensed building practitioner when drawing up a plan?

It is recommended to consult a licensed building practitioner to ensure the plan is accurate and complies with building regulations and safety standards.

What is the purpose of cutting the bottom of the bottom plate before standing the framing up?

The purpose of cutting the bottom of the bottom plate is to prevent scratching polished timber floors or blunting the teeth of a hand saw when fixing the frame to the floor.

What is the recommended method for fixing the frame to a concrete floor?

For a concrete floor, the recommended methods are using [INAUDIBLE] bolts or Excalibur bolts, which involve drilling a hole and then ratcheting them up tight.

What is a lintel and why is it used in this context?

A lintel is a horizontal member that spans an opening. In this context, it is used over a doorway in a non-load-bearing wall to provide structural integrity and is considered good practice.

How can you ensure the frame is square after it's built?

To ensure the frame is square, you can measure the diagonals and adjust the corners accordingly. If there is a difference, you can knock one of the corners to squeeze out the discrepancy and make the diagonal measurements equal.

What is the final step in securing the frame after it's built and stood up?

The final step is to fix the frame to the ceiling, ensuring it is plumb and secured into solid members. It's also important to check for any wires in the ceiling before fixing.