2006 Honda Odyssey Parasitic Draw Testing
Summary
TLDRIn this video, a mechanic addresses a 2006 Honda Odyssey's persistent battery drain issue. After installing a temporary battery disconnect switch and using an ammeter, they identify a parasitic draw of nearly one amp. Through a series of tests, including scanning for error codes and checking fuses, they pinpoint the problem to a faulty circuit related to the left power sliding door control unit. By disabling this circuit, they successfully reduce the parasitic draw to an acceptable level, resolving the battery drain issue.
Takeaways
- 🔍 The 2006 Honda Odyssey has a parasitic draw issue, causing the battery to go dead frequently.
- 🔧 A marine battery disconnect was used as a temporary fix by another shop, which the mechanic plans to replace with a proper test.
- 🔋 The vehicle's battery has been changed multiple times without resolving the parasitic draw.
- 📈 The mechanic uses an ammeter to measure the current draw, initially finding a significant 980 milliamps.
- ⏱ After waiting, the draw drops to 400 milliamps, indicating a persistent issue.
- 🔌 The mechanic identifies a problematic 7.5-amp fuse related to the power windows, memory seat, wiper washer, immobilizer, gauge control module, and navigation system.
- 🔍 After removing the faulty fuse, the draw drops significantly to 8 milliamps, suggesting the issue is with a device or system connected to this fuse.
- 🔗 The mechanic traces the parasitic draw to the rear junction box and a specific circuit related to the power tailgate and left sliding door.
- 🛠 The left power sliding door control unit is identified as the source of the issue, with a parasitic draw even when disabled.
- 🔄 The mechanic disables the problematic circuit by 'd-pinning' a wire, reducing the draw to an acceptable level.
- 🚫 The customer agrees to leave the left sliding door non-operational due to the cost of repair, accepting the use of the right sliding door only.
Q & A
What is the issue with the 2006 Honda Odyssey mentioned in the script?
-The 2006 Honda Odyssey has a parasitic draw issue, causing the battery to go dead intermittently over the last few years.
What was the temporary fix attempted by another shop for the parasitic draw?
-Another shop installed a marine battery disconnect as a temporary fix for the parasitic draw issue.
What method does the technician use to measure the parasitic draw?
-The technician uses an ammeter connected in series across the disconnect switch to measure the parasitic draw.
What was the initial reading on the ammeter when the parasitic draw was first measured?
-The initial reading on the ammeter was 980 milliamps, which is almost one amp of current flow.
What additional tool does the technician use to diagnose the issue further?
-The technician uses a scanner interface to check for any fault codes or modules that are awake.
What fault codes were found when the technician scanned the vehicle?
-The technician found a battery voltage failure in the ABS module and a battery voltage high in the ABS module, likely due to the disconnect switch. There was also no signal from the satellite safety sensor.
Which fuse was identified as potentially causing the parasitic draw?
-The 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse panel, which is the backup fuse, was identified as potentially causing the parasitic draw.
What components are fed by the 7.5 amp fuse that was causing the draw?
-The 7.5 amp fuse feeds the power window master switch, memory seat switch, wiper washer switch, immobilizer control unit, gauge control module, navigation computer, navigation system, and the rear junction box.
What was the final parasitic draw after identifying and disabling the problematic circuit?
-The final parasitic draw was reduced to 25 to 30 milliamps, which is an acceptable level.
What component was ultimately disabled to resolve the parasitic draw issue?
-The left power sliding door control unit was disabled to resolve the parasitic draw issue, as it was not in use and fixing it would be expensive.
What was the customer's response to disabling the left sliding door control unit?
-The customer was okay with disabling the left sliding door control unit since it hadn't been working for some time, and they were manually using it.
Outlines
🔋 Diagnosing a Parasitic Draw in a 2006 Honda Odyssey
The video begins with the diagnosis of a parasitic draw in a 2006 Honda Odyssey with a 3.5 V6 engine. The vehicle has a history of battery drain issues, with the battery going dead in a few days. The previous attempt to fix it involved using a marine battery disconnect as a temporary solution. The mechanic installs a temporary battery disconnect switch to check for a draw. After running the vehicle and disconnecting the battery, an ammeter is connected to measure the current flow, which initially reads 980 milliamps. The mechanic decides to wait and see if the draw decreases over time and also uses a scanner to check for any fault codes or active modules. The scanner reveals a battery voltage failure in the ABS module and a high battery voltage, likely due to the disconnect switch and a battery charger being used with the key on. No other fault codes are found. The mechanic then clears the network codes and checks the current flow again, which has decreased to 400 milliamps after 20 minutes. The mechanic identifies a problematic fuse in the fuse panel, which, when removed, significantly reduces the draw to 8 milliamps.
🔍 Tracing the Parasitic Draw to a Fuse and Rear Junction Box
The mechanic reviews a power distribution diagram to understand which components are fed by the problematic 7.5-amp fuse. The diagram shows that the fuse powers various components including the power window master switch, memory seat switch, wiper washer switch, immobilizer control unit, gauge control module, navigation computer, and the rear junction box. The mechanic recalls that there was an issue with the right door, which had a fuse removed. Using an amp clamp, the mechanic tests the current flow through various connectors to identify the source of the draw. After disconnecting connectors K and X, the draw decreases, indicating that the issue might be related to the rear junction box. The mechanic locates and accesses the rear junction box, which is behind the right rear quarter panel, and unplugs a connector, reducing the draw to an acceptable level. The mechanic identifies that the circuit causing the issue is related to the left siding power door lock and the power tailgate control.
🛠 Investigating the Power Tailgate Control and Sliding Door
The mechanic continues the investigation by focusing on a white-red wire that shows a 100-milliamp draw, which is consistent with a relay activating. The mechanic consults the service literature and locates a connector (C701) that, when disconnected, reduces the draw to 30 milliamps. The connector is found to be connected to the left power sliding door control unit. The mechanic d-pins a specific wire at this connector and plugs it back in, which further reduces the parasitic draw to 33 milliamps. The mechanic then tests the functionality of the vehicle's doors and tailgate, discovering that the left sliding door does not open, likely due to a previous issue that caused a fuse to be removed. The mechanic decides to leave the door disabled after consulting with the customer, as the right sliding door is operational and the vehicle does not have a power liftgate as initially thought.
🔧 Finalizing the Repair and Clearing Fault Codes
With the parasitic draw reduced to an acceptable level, the mechanic discusses the next steps with the customer. Since the left sliding door has been non-functional for some time, the customer agrees to leave it disabled. The mechanic then removes the temporary disconnect switch and reinstalls the battery cable, ensuring that the vehicle's electrical system is back to normal. The mechanic also clears all fault codes from the vehicle's processors. A post-repair network scan reveals a few remaining codes, including a battery voltage code and a communication issue with the left power sliding door lock, which is expected due to the disabled door. The mechanic clears these codes, and with no warning lights present, the vehicle is ready to be returned to the customer. The video concludes with the mechanic summarizing the repair process and thanking the viewers for watching.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Parasitic Draw
💡Marine Battery Disconnect
💡Ammeter
💡ABS Module
💡Fuse
💡Rear Junction Box
💡Power Tailgate Control
💡D-Pinning
💡Fault Codes
💡Network Scan
Highlights
The 2006 Honda Odyssey has a parasitic draw issue, with the battery going dead frequently.
A marine battery disconnect was used as a temporary fix by another shop.
The vehicle's battery has been changed multiple times without resolving the issue.
A temporary battery disconnect switch is installed to check for a draw.
An initial draw of 980 milliamps is detected, indicating a significant parasitic load.
The draw does not drop significantly after 20 minutes, remaining at 404 milliamps.
A fuse with a voltage drop is identified as potentially causing the problem.
Removing the suspect fuse reduces the draw to eight milliamps.
The power distribution diagram reveals that the fuse feeds several important systems.
A history of issues with the right door and a previously removed fuse is noted.
Unplugging connector K reduces the draw, suggesting a problem with that circuit.
The rear junction box is identified as a potential source of the parasitic draw.
Unplugging a connector at the rear junction box reduces the draw to an acceptable level.
The left power sliding door control unit is suspected to be the cause of the draw.
Disabling the left power sliding door control unit reduces the draw to 30 milliamps.
The customer is informed that the left sliding door will be disabled due to the cost of repair.
The vehicle's parasitic draw is successfully reduced to an acceptable level.
All fault codes are cleared, and the vehicle is ready to be returned to the customer.
Transcripts
[Music]
well good day viewers today we have a
2006 honda odyssey it's got the
3.5 v6
and it's got a parasitic draw
and another shop put this on as a
temporary fix it's a
marine battery disconnect
this thing's had a history of the
battery going dead for the last few
years
sometimes a couple of days
and it'll be dead and nobody apparently
can find the draw the battery's been
changed a couple of times
um so we're gonna we're gonna remove
this disconnect switch and i'm gonna put
a temporary switch in here so i can
check it for a draw
so i've temporarily installed a battery
disconnect switch in series in the
battery negative cable like this
and i've started the vehicle ran it shut
it off rolled the windows down closed
the doors and connected the ammeter
in series across the disconnect switch
and then open the disconnect switch
and right now we see
980
milliamps 0.99 almost one amp
of current flow
it's uh 10 45 am so we're going to wait
a few minutes to see if this draw drops
and
that's definitely a significant drain on
the vehicle i think i'm also going to
scan it and see if there's any codes or
if there's any modules awake
so with my scanner interface plugged in
it jumps up to 1.14 amps
so i'm going to try scanning this thing
see if there's any codes in any
computers for
door latch switches or
key cylinder switches or something like
the toyota i had a few weeks ago
i wasted a considerable amount of time
and if i had scanned it i would have
seen a fault code in the bcm for
a key cylinder switch stuck
i've never scanned this vehicle this is
a new customer
now come on you can auto id
key is on
there we go
let's do a code scan
see what controllers respond i have the
key on now and i've got the disconnect
switch turned back on so that we're not
pulling current through the ammeter
well i'll pick up when this done in
network scan
well that was painfully slow
so we got a battery voltage failure in
the abs module probably likely due to
the disconnect switch we got a battery
voltage high in the abs module probably
because somebody had a battery charger
on it with the key on it
and no signal from the satellite safety
sensor other than that we have no
other fault codes in any other
controllers
and of course the monitors this vehicle
are not running past because the battery
being disconnected every time
so i'm gonna do a network code clear
although it doesn't really matter i'll
wait until after
so we're gonna
return to the uh
the switch
and check the current flow again
so we're down to 400 milliamps or 0.4
amps i've got the disconnect switch open
so it's going through the ammeter now
i've got the doors open but i've got the
door jam switches
held with a pair of vice grips like that
on both sides so that it simulates the
doors being closed i notice they have
the interior light
cancelled probably with the override
switch on the
but we're gonna let it sit now it's uh
10 55 and we're going to see if after 20
minutes the drug drops any lower
so after 20 minutes we're still at 404
milliamps i had to change out the
battery the battery is getting low
i traced it to
a fuse
in the fuse panel here
the
fuse
seven and a half amp fuse in the middle
there at the bottom row
this one right
here
has a voltage drop across it so
we'll set that up and we'll have a look
at it
so we got 3.7 milli volts drop across
that fuse
let's see what fuse that is
one two three four
five
okay i gotta look at this according to
that that's the seven and a half amp
backup fuse
now why would that be
causing a problem
let's pull that fuse and see if that
eliminates some of the draw so with that
fuse removed it drops to eight milliamps
[Music]
so let's find out what's on that fuse
so here's a power distribution diagram
for fuse seven at seven and a half amp
fuse it feeds a pile of stuff
it's the power window master switch
memory seat switch if it has that
the
wiper washer switch immobilizer control
unit receiver
it's a gauge control module navigation
computer navigation system
wow
it also feeds the mic rear junction box
right sliding power door now they did
say they had an issue with the right
door and there was a fuse removed for
the right i think it was the right door
let me see my notes here
[Music]
left siding door pops open and the fuse
was pulled
so that could be the cause of the
problem
i wonder if we can get
to this connector here
looks like there's a bunch of connectors
to try to figure out which way the wire
which way the circuit is
current is flowing
possibly with an amp clamp over the
wires
i don't want to start disabling each one
every one of these things
so i'm going to print this diagram
so from that fuse panel that fuse feeds
several connectors
x
x pin five
or sorry k pin five x thirty five g
three
and
g six now these connectors are
the g connectors on the back side of the
fuse panel but the
x and k connectors are on the front
so i'm going to try to identify these
red white wires i put the fuse back in
in the
milliamp draw is back
and uh i'm going to try with an amp
clamp to figure out if one of these
wires
coming off of k for instance
red white wire has current flow on it
so i unplug connector k
which is
this one right here
and the draw went from 403 down to
360.
so then i unplug connector x
which is this big connector it's a
latched connector
and the drive dropped to basically 380.
so that leaves this connector which is
on the back side and that goes to
the rear junction block so i think we're
going to find this rear junction box
because i can't get this connector on
the back side of the
fuse panel
without taking the fuse panel off so
that circuit feeds
l
and g3
feed this rear junction
rear junction box control unit i'm gonna
see where that is
so that rear junction box is behind the
right rear quarter panel
you gotta pull this uh
trim off here
and you can access it so i'm gonna try
and flip this out so we can get at some
of these connectors here
try and isolate which circuit in this
is potentially causing the draw
so i've got one of the connectors at
that rear junction box unplugged
and it's down to 30 milliamps
which is acceptable
let's see which one that is
okay so that's that connector right
there which is g
i believe that's g
yeah that's the third connector or the
second connector
one two three four
one
two yeah second connector that's g2
location five on the diagram here
g2 goes to
let's see
rear wire harness right right branch
so let's see what the diagram shows
left siding power door lock
and then power tailgate control does
have power to yes it's power tailgate
control as well
so
this is the circuit that has the issue
i'm going to plug this back in again
see if i hear any click
i don't know if the camera's picking
that up
there's a relay of some sort clicking in
the left rear corner here
so maybe this is a problem with the
power tailgate control it's not the door
well we're gonna do some more
investigating
so according to this i've got a hundred
milliamps 120 milliamps draw on that
white red wire
let's zero this amp clamp
about 100 milliamps which is about what
it takes to turn a relay on which i hear
clicking over in the left corner so
let's look at this diagram here
and where this goes to the see if
there's a relay activated in there
so i see there's a connector in here
c701
and i found it in the service literature
it's underneath the
trim panel on the left side so let's
take that off
well it turns out access to that
connector wasn't so nice it's behind the
spare tire
and to get that plastic out you got to
take both fronts both back seats out
i unbolted the seat brackets from the
center here but
i couldn't lift them out i don't know
what's involved in removing them but i
did manage to get in there and get that
connector disconnected and it drops to
30 milliamps so let's see what that
suggests the problem is
so here is the connector i unplugged
c701
and it feeds the left power sliding
control sliding door control unit
let's see where that lives
i hope it's not behind that stupid
so that seven and a half amp fuse
feeds the rear junction box
a6 in g2 out
[Music]
and feeds this
control module
which is grounded all the time let's see
where that lives
behind left rear side trim on floor wire
harness oh that's that's the module
that's right above that connector
well
i wonder if we can just disable that one
wire deep in that one wire and what
little effect because he's
mentioned that they did have a problem
with the left sliding door and they had
pulled a fuse
so obviously they're not using it so
let's let's go back to this
i'm gonna print this
and i'm gonna d pin that one wire from
that connector and plug it back in again
[Music]
so let's see this connector view here
701
pin five white and red wire
[Music]
701 pin five white and red wire but it
doesn't show the connector view but i
can think i can figure it out
so i d-pinned pin five at connector c701
and plugged it back in and then
parasitic draw down to uh about 30
milliamps let's have a look
it's about 33 milliamps
so now we're gonna see
what doesn't work
i imagine the left sliding door may not
work
but i think they were manually using it
but i hope the lift gate works
i'm going to turn this disconnect switch
back on
otherwise i'll blow the fuse in my
multimeter
and then see if the
rear tailgate
closing feature works
where's the button on this thing
is there a button on it
here's where that connector lives way up
inside there
it was plugged into this
clip but i want to plug it back in after
is there a button on here to just pull
down on this
hmm
well i'm an idiot it doesn't have power
liftgate
i saw the uh
i saw the big piston on this side i
thought it was the actuator so this
doesn't have power liftgate
so everything seems to work except this
door doesn't open now i think they've
got it disabled i'm going to talk to
them and see if they're okay with it
just disabled
because the other sliding door does work
because fixing this thing is probably
going to be fairly expensive i'm not
sure what's what the issue is but
at least we've got the draw down to an
acceptable level now
25 milliamps 30 milliamps so
the spec is typically under 50.
definitely 400
would kill the battery
probably in a couple of days especially
in the winter time
400 milliamps is like a side marker a
couple of park marker lights on
so i got off the phone with the customer
and the left sliding door hasn't worked
for some time
so we're going to leave it disabled
they're just going to use the right
sliding door
it does not have a power liftgate as i
thought it did i looked at the cylinder
and i thought it was the actuator
nevertheless we're down to 25 to 28
milliamps
and that is acceptable
so we're going to take the disconnect
switch off and reinstall the battery
cable normally
and clear all the fault codes of all the
processors
so i did a post network scan and we've
still got the battery voltage code
safing sensor code
then we got some codes in the gauges for
the right power sliding door control
unit lost communication that's probably
due to me but i'm plugging stuff
so we're going to clear all codes read
by this scan
as long as there's no warning lights on
we're gonna
we're gonna ship it
i'll pick up when it gets done here
so as i said it cleared codes out of 14
controllers
i'm just going to look in
here one more time and see if we have oh
that's unit information
door locks let's try that
codes too many modules in this vehicle
and it's old already
should have a communication code with
the left sliding door lock
nope
let's try this
all body electrical codes
yeah right power sliding door lock locks
communication with left power sliding
door lock
so
makes sense that's disabled now
so we're gonna ship it
thanks for watching
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