How to get STRONG FINGERS with Alex Megos

Summary

In this video, a climber shares essential finger training techniques to improve maximum power. The focus is on using the Beastmaker fingerboard, emphasizing the importance of proper warm-up and injury prevention. The climber demonstrates various grip types, such as the full crimp and half crimp, and explains their benefits for muscle and tendon development. Additionally, the session covers beginner-friendly exercises to build finger strength and offers insights into progressively incorporating fingerboard training. For those serious about improving their climbing, the climber suggests regular training while prioritizing tendon and ligament health.

Takeaways

• 😀 Proper warm-up is essential before finger strength training to avoid injury.
• 😀 Always listen to your body; if something feels wrong or painful, avoid continuing the session.
• 😀 The Beastmaker 2000 is recommended as an ideal fingerboard for training due to its comfortable, wood-based design.
• 😀 Fingerboarding should be a regular part of your climbing routine, whether for warming up or for max power training.
• 😀 Maximal power training involves using small crimps and adding weight to increase intensity, with hang times between 2 and 8 seconds.
• 😀 Different types of grips, such as full crimp and half crimp, target different muscles, tendons, and forearm strength.
• 😀 Half crimp is the preferred grip for most climbers and should make up the majority of your fingerboarding routine.
• 😀 Training the tendons through dragging (hanging with minimal effort) helps increase comfort and strength over time.
• 😀 Max fingerboard sessions include a mix of weighted hanging and straight-arm hanging to improve finger strength and endurance.
• 😀 Beginners should start with basic finger exercises, gradually increasing intensity as their tendons and ligaments strengthen.
• 😀 It’s important to have proper progressions in finger strength training, including starting with easier exercises before advancing to more challenging grips like full crimp.

Q & A

Why is finger strength important in climbing?

Finger strength is one of the most crucial factors in climbing, as it allows climbers to hold onto holds and grips more effectively, which is essential for both strength and endurance during climbing.

What is the recommended approach before starting finger training?

It's essential to properly warm up before starting any finger training. Warming up ensures that the fingers, tendons, and muscles are prepared, reducing the risk of injury. If something feels wrong during the warm-up, it's important to stop and avoid training.

What is the Beastmaker 2000, and why is it recommended?

The Beastmaker 2000 is a fingerboard that is highly recommended for training because it features comfortable, well-designed wooden holds that offer a good balance between difficulty and comfort. The design of the holds is superior to many other fingerboards on the market.

How often should climbers train on a fingerboard?

Climbers should use a fingerboard regularly for warm-up purposes during their climbing sessions. In addition to warming up, it's also beneficial to have focused fingerboard sessions, especially for maximum strength and power endurance training, typically a few times a week.

What are the different types of grip positions shown in the script?

The script mentions three types of finger positions: the full crimp, half crimp, and drag finger position. The full crimp requires coordination and is used for high-intensity grip strength, while the half crimp focuses more on the forearm muscles. The drag finger position targets the tendons and is commonly used for deep pockets.

Why is the half crimp preferred for training?

The half crimp is preferred for training because it primarily engages the forearm muscles, making it effective for building strength. It is also more comfortable for many climbers, and it's a versatile position for training on a variety of holds.

What role do tendons play in climbing and finger training?

Tendons play a significant role in climbing because they allow the muscles to pull effectively and provide stability. Tendon strength and adaptability are crucial, especially when training with fingerboard exercises, as tendons can take longer to develop strength compared to muscles.

What is the proper technique for maximum strength fingerboard sessions?

During maximum strength fingerboard sessions, climbers should aim for hang times between 2 to 5 seconds. To improve these times, climbers can add additional weight. Training should be done in sets with varying arm angles, including bent-arm hangs (90–120 degrees) and straight-arm hangs without additional weight.

What exercises are recommended for beginners to improve finger strength?

For beginners, a good starting exercise is to stand on the ground and pull on a finger hold using light pressure for 10 to 15 seconds per finger. This can be done in a relaxed way, gradually progressing to more challenging grips like the crimp after a few weeks.

Why should beginners avoid intense fingerboard training early on?

Beginners should avoid intense fingerboard training in the early stages because their muscles adapt much quicker than tendons and bones. Tendon and ligament strength takes longer to develop, so it's important to give them time to adjust to the stress before engaging in more advanced finger training.