Everything you need to know about PIGMENTATION | Dr Davin Lim

Summary

In this video, Dr. Davin, a board-certified dermatologist, discusses managing pigmentation disorders, particularly melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. He highlights the importance of sunscreen, especially for people with darker skin tones (types 3-6). Regular sunscreens may not protect against blue light, which can worsen pigmentation in these skin types. Tinted sunscreens with iron oxide, or using mineral makeup with iron oxide, can help. Dr. Davin suggests the 'Match My Makeup' tool for finding appropriate makeup products to augment sun protection. This forms the foundation of effective treatment for pigmentation issues.

Takeaways

• 🌞 Sunscreen is the foundation of treating pigmentation disorders like melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, but it's more complex than just UV protection.
• 🌈 Melasma and similar conditions commonly affect darker skin tones (types 3, 4, 5, and 6), but can also occur in lighter skin types.
• 💡 Sunscreens often fail to cover the full spectrum of light that stimulates pigmentation, including UVB, UVA, and visible light, particularly blue light.
• 👩🏽‍🦱 Darker skin is more sensitive to blue light due to the OPN receptor on melanocytes, which can worsen pigmentation.
• 🛡️ Most sunscreens, especially non-tinted ones, do not protect effectively against visible light, particularly high-energy visible (HEV) blue light.
• 🔬 Micronized sunscreens, with very small particles of titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, may look more cosmetically elegant but lose their ability to reflect visible light.
• 🎨 Tinted sunscreens with iron oxide provide better protection against blue light, but finding a good color match, especially for darker skin tones, can be challenging.
• 🧴 Some good options include products like the Milan 130 sunscreen, which has a high SPF and contains iron oxide, though it may leave a reddish hue.
• 💄 Mineral makeup, which contains a high amount of iron oxide, can be used to augment protection from blue light if finding a suitable tinted sunscreen is difficult.
• 🔍 A tool called 'Match My Makeup' can help you find the best mineral makeup color match by analyzing the RGB factors of your current makeup.

Q & A

What is melasma and how does it relate to pigmentation disorders?

Melasma is a common skin condition that causes dark, discolored patches on the skin. It is often related to other pigmentation disorders like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. These conditions are influenced by exposure to various types of light, including UVA, UVB, and high-energy visible light.

Why is sunlight a major concern for pigmentation disorders?

Sunlight, including UVA, UVB, high-energy visible light (HEV), and infrared light, can worsen pigmentation disorders. These types of light stimulate melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells in the skin, leading to increased pigmentation, especially in individuals with darker skin tones.

Which skin types are more prone to pigmentation disorders?

Darker skin types, specifically skin types III, IV, V, and VI, are more prone to pigmentation disorders such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. However, melasma can also affect lighter skin types.

How do melanocytes respond to different wavelengths of light?

Melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing pigment, are sensitive to various wavelengths of light, including UVB, UVA, and visible light, particularly blue light. In darker skin types, the OPN receptor on melanocytes is especially sensitive to blue light, which can exacerbate pigmentation issues.

Why might non-tinted sunscreens not be sufficient for protecting against pigmentation disorders?

Non-tinted sunscreens often protect against UVB and UVA but may not effectively block high-energy visible (HEV) light, particularly blue light. This leaves a gap in protection, especially for individuals with skin of color, who are more sensitive to blue light.

What role does iron oxide play in sunscreens, and why is it important?

Iron oxide in sunscreens helps block visible light, particularly blue light, which is important for preventing pigmentation in darker skin types. Sunscreens containing iron oxide are more effective at protecting against a broader range of light, including HEV light.

Why is it difficult to find a good color match for tinted sunscreens for darker skin tones?

Many sunscreen manufacturers only offer one or two shades, which may not match the wide range of skin tones found in people with darker skin. A slight mismatch in shade can result in a sunscreen that looks cosmetically unappealing, discouraging its use.

How can individuals with darker skin tones enhance their sun protection if they can't find a tinted sunscreen that matches their skin tone?

They can augment their sun protection by using mineral makeup that contains iron oxide, which can provide additional protection against visible light. Websites like 'Match My Makeup' can help find the right shade of mineral makeup for their skin tone.

What is the significance of the OPN receptor in skin of color?

The OPN receptor on melanocytes in darker skin tones is highly sensitive to blue light, making individuals with skin of color more prone to pigmentation issues when exposed to high-energy visible light.

What is the primary foundation of treating pigmentation disorders like melasma?

The primary foundation for treating pigmentation disorders is consistent use of sunscreens that provide broad-spectrum protection, including UVB, UVA, and high-energy visible light. Tinted sunscreens with iron oxide and additional protection from mineral makeup are also important for comprehensive care.