Germany's Black Forest and Cologne

Summary

Rick Steves and his family explore Germany's rich history and culture, starting with Cologne's majestic Gothic cathedral and its Roman roots. They experience the modern city's vibrant atmosphere before heading to the relaxing spa town of Baden-Baden, indulging in its mineral baths and casino. The journey continues through the Black Forest, with its traditional cuckoo clocks and cherry cake, and finishes with a glimpse into the region's folk life at the Open-Air Museum. This travelogue offers a delightful mix of Germany's past and present.

Takeaways

• 🏰 Rick Steves explores Germany with his family, highlighting the country's rich history and scenic beauty.
• 🏰 The journey begins with a visit to Germany's greatest Gothic cathedral, showcasing its architectural and artistic significance.
• 🎰 The group experiences the luxurious lifestyle at a top mineral spa and tries their luck at one of the world's renowned casinos.
• 🎵 They engage with local culture by cranking out old-time music, adding a melodic touch to their travelogue.
• 🌲 The script takes viewers on an exploration of the Romantic Black Forest, known for its dense woodlands and traditional villages.
• 🚂 Rick emphasizes the efficiency of train travel in Europe, particularly in Germany, for a seamless town-hopping experience.
• 🏨 In Baden-Baden, the group stays at a family-run hotel, Hotel am Markt, which offers a cozy and budget-friendly experience.
• 🛀 The town's thermal baths, with a mix of modern and traditional facilities, provide restorative relaxation and are a highlight of the visit.
• 👕 The script provides insights into the local customs and lifestyle, such as the Roman-Irish bath ritual and the importance of light packing for train travel.
• 🍰 The Black Forest cherry cake, with its rich layers of chocolate, whipped cream, almonds, cherries, and a hint of schnapps, is a must-try delicacy.
• 🏞 The Black Forest Open-Air Museum offers a glimpse into the region's history, with exhibits on traditional crafts, agriculture, and industry.

Q & A

Who is the host of the travel series featured in the script?

The host of the travel series is Rick Steves.

What is the focus of the travel series in Germany?

The focus of the travel series in Germany is to explore various cultural and historical sites, including Germany's greatest Gothic cathedral, a top mineral spa, a casino, and the Black Forest.

What is the significance of Cologne Cathedral in the script?

Cologne Cathedral is significant as it is Germany's most art-packed Gothic church and has been an important religious center for centuries, with its construction beginning about 700 years ago and completed in 1880.

Why was Cologne Cathedral built?

Cologne Cathedral was built to house important religious relics, such as the bones of the Magi, and to serve as a magnificent religious center, which attracted many pilgrims and their financial support.

What is unique about the Gera Crucifix in the Cologne Cathedral?

The Gera Crucifix is unique because of its realism and sensitivity, which were 300 years ahead of its time, and it powerfully depicts the crucifixion with a human Jesus who was dead.

Why is Baden-Baden a popular destination in Germany?

Baden-Baden is popular for its mineral baths, which have been a feature since Roman times, and for being a place where Germany's high-rolling elite, royalty, and aristocracy would come to enjoy the curative mineral waters and the world's top casinos.

What is the Roman-Irish Bath ritual mentioned in the script?

The Roman-Irish Bath ritual is a two-hour series of soaking and sitting in pools and sauna rooms at Friedrichsbad in Baden-Baden, which is a therapeutic and relaxing experience.

What is the significance of the Black Forest in the script?

The Black Forest is significant as a region with thickly wooded hills, strong local traditions, and as a place for relaxation and exploration, featuring activities like walking, visiting small towns, and experiencing local crafts and cuisine.

What is the importance of cuckoo clocks in the Black Forest region?

Cuckoo clocks are important as they are a traditional craft of the Black Forest region, dating back to the 17th century, and are a major tourist attraction with many shops selling these clocks.

What is the Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte mentioned in the script?

Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte, or Black Forest Cherry Cake, is a famous and decadent dessert from the Black Forest region, containing chocolate, whipped cream, almonds, cherries, and a little bit of schnapps.

How does the script describe the transformation of the Black Forest from a mysterious to a vacationland?

The script describes the Black Forest as once being isolated and mysterious, but now it is a bright and sunny vacationland, with remote villages and farmsteads where local dialects and traditions are still strong.

Outlines

00:00

🏰 Exploring Germany's History and Architecture

Rick Steves introduces a family travel adventure through Germany, highlighting a visit to Germany's greatest Gothic cathedral and a mineral spa. The group plans to try their luck at a casino, enjoy traditional music, and explore the Black Forest. The journey begins in Cologne, where they quickly check out the city's sights before heading to the spa resort of Baden-Baden. The city of Cologne is noted for its rich history, including Roman roots and medieval significance as a trading center. Despite heavy bombing during World War II, Cologne has been rebuilt, and the city's cathedral stands as a testament to its past with its neo-Gothic facade and vast collection of religious relics.

05:03

🛍 A Cultural Soak in Baden-Baden

The script shifts to the town of Baden-Baden, known for its restful atmosphere and historical significance as a spa town frequented by Europe's elite. Rick and his family explore the town's public transportation, with a focus on Bus No. 201, which provides easy access to the town center and its attractions. The town is described as a place where Germany goes to recharge, with a mix of tourists seeking relaxation and locals enjoying the benefits of a robust healthcare system. The Hotel am Markt is recommended for its family-run atmosphere, affordable prices, and central location. Rick also discusses the town's thermal baths, with a personal experience of the Roman-Irish bath ritual at Friedrichsbad, emphasizing the contrast between hot baths and cold plunges as part of the bathing tradition.

10:04

🎰 The Elegance of Baden-Baden's Casino

Rick Steves provides a glimpse into the glamorous world of Baden-Baden's casino, which is noted for its opulence and historical significance. He mentions the casino's requirement for formal attire and its inspiration from the Palace of Versailles. The casino is not only a place for gambling but also a social hub where visitors can appreciate the architecture and atmosphere. A tour of the casino is highlighted, during which kids are allowed inside, and the connection between the casino's profits and the city's revenue is explained. The script also touches on the surrounding areas of Baden-Baden, including the Trinkhalle and the Philharmonic, which contribute to the town's cultural richness.

15:06

🌲 Discovering the Black Forest's Charm

The script takes viewers on a journey through Germany's Black Forest, a region known for its dense woodlands and traditional villages. Rick and his family rent a car to explore the area, stopping at the town of Staufen, which is celebrated for its cobbled lanes, half-timbered buildings, and local wine. The town is also a hub for cuckoo clocks, a local specialty, and the script delves into the history and craftsmanship of these timepieces. The German Clock Museum in Furtwangen is mentioned for its collection of timekeeping devices, and the script describes the evolution of clock-making in the region. The family also enjoys the local cuisine, particularly the famous Black Forest cherry cake, which is highlighted for its rich ingredients.

20:11

🏞 The Black Forest's Industrial Legacy

Rick Steves concludes the exploration of the Black Forest by visiting the Black Forest Open-Air Museum near the village of Gutach. The museum is praised for its collection of original buildings that showcase the region's folk life and traditional crafts. The script discusses the historical importance of mills and sawmills in the region, which were instrumental in the early stages of industrialization. The family learns about the processes of grinding flour and lumber production, which were once vital to the local economy. The script emphasizes how these small but significant innovations contributed to the development of the modern Europe that travelers enjoy today.

25:14

🍰 The Sweet Conclusion of a German Adventure

In a light-hearted conclusion, Rick Steves humorously discusses the ingredients of the Black Forest cherry cake, playfully interacting with his travel partner Jackie. The script ends on a note that emphasizes the enjoyable experience of traveling through Germany with family, suggesting that viewers keep exploring.

Keywords

💡Rick Steves

Rick Steves is an American travel writer, television personality, and public television host known for his series of travel shows 'Rick Steves' Europe.' In the script, he serves as the travel partner and guide, providing insights and commentary on various destinations in Germany, highlighting his role as an informative and engaging travel host.

💡Gothic Cathedral

A Gothic cathedral is a type of church architecture that emerged during the High and Late Medieval period. It is characterized by its grand scale, pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and flying buttresses. In the script, the Cologne Cathedral is mentioned as Germany's greatest Gothic cathedral, indicating its historical and architectural significance.

💡Mineral Spa

A mineral spa is a location where mineral-rich spring waters are used for therapeutic purposes. These spas are often found in picturesque settings and offer relaxation and health benefits. The script mentions a top mineral spa in Baden-Baden, suggesting that it is a key destination for experiencing the 'good life' in German style.

💡Black Forest

The Black Forest, or 'Schwarzwald' in German, is a densely wooded mountain range in southwestern Germany. It is known for its picturesque landscapes, traditional villages, and cultural heritage. The script describes exploring the Romantic Black Forest with Rick Steves, indicating that it is a region rich in natural beauty and traditional charm.

💡Casino

A casino is a facility that houses various types of gambling activities. The script references 'the Versailles of casinos' in Baden-Baden, highlighting the luxurious and high-stakes gambling that takes place there, and suggesting a contrast between the region's tranquil spas and the excitement of the casino.

💡Cuckoo Clocks

Cuckoo clocks are a type of clock that is traditionally made in the Black Forest region of Germany. They are characterized by their mechanical cuckoo bird that emerges from a small door to call out the hours. The script mentions cuckoo clocks as a part of the region's cultural heritage and a tourist attraction.

💡Roman-Irish Bath

The Roman-Irish Bath is a therapeutic bathing ritual that involves a series of hot baths, cold plunges, and massages. The script describes Rick Steves and his travel partners experiencing this ritual at Friedrichsbad in Baden-Baden, emphasizing the spa town's focus on wellness and relaxation.

💡St. Christopher

St. Christopher is the patron saint of travelers. The script mentions a statue of St. Christopher in Cologne Cathedral, indicating that the cathedral has been an important site for pilgrims and travelers throughout history, and continues to be a place of significance for those on journeys.

💡Baden-Baden Casino

The Baden-Baden Casino is a historic casino known for its elegant design and luxurious atmosphere. The script describes it as one of the world's most beautiful casinos, suggesting that it is a key cultural and entertainment destination in the region, attracting visitors with its opulence and history.

💡Schwarzwald Kirschtorte

Schwarzwald Kirschtorte, or Black Forest Cherry Cake, is a traditional German dessert that originates from the Black Forest region. The script mentions this cake as a local specialty, highlighting the region's culinary delights and the importance of local ingredients, such as cherries and kirsch (cherry brandy), in its preparation.

Highlights

Rick Steves introduces the episode with a focus on Germany, highlighting the Gothic cathedrals, mineral spas, casinos, and the Black Forest.

The group arrives in Cologne and immediately seeks out the historic cathedral, a symbol of Germany's rich religious history.

Cologne's cathedral, with its 500-foot high spire, is described as a masterpiece of Gothic architecture.

Stained glass covering the area of two football fields inside the cathedral is mentioned, adding to its divine ambiance.

The cathedral's construction history is discussed, from its beginnings 700 years ago to its completion coinciding with German unification.

Religious relics, including the bones of the Magi, are highlighted as a significant draw for medieval pilgrims to Cologne.

The Gero Crucifix, an 800-year-old piece of art, is noted for its realistic depiction of the crucifixion.

The statue of St. Christopher, the patron saint of travelers, is shown as a beacon for pilgrims and tourists.

Efficient train travel in Germany is showcased, with the group hopping on a train from Cologne to Baden-Baden.

Baden-Baden is introduced as a top spa town where Germany's elite historically came to rejuvenate.

The town's casino, inspired by Versailles, is described as a significant source of revenue for the local government.

Rick Steves experiences the Roman-Irish bath ritual at Friedrichsbad, a traditional spa treatment.

The contrast of hot baths and cold plunges in the spa experience is emphasized as part of the rejuvenation process.

The Black Forest is presented as a gateway to Germany's rural charm, with its dense woodlands and traditional villages.

The town of Staufen is highlighted for its cobbled lanes, gingerbread buildings, and 15th-century castle.

Cuckoo clocks, a regional specialty, are shown being made and their cultural significance is explained.

The German Clock Museum in Furtwangen is mentioned for its extensive collection of timekeeping devices.

The Black Forest Open-Air Museum is noted for its folk life exhibits and demonstrations of traditional crafts.

The episode concludes with Rick Steves reflecting on the diverse experiences from modern cities to traditional hideaways in Germany.

Transcripts

HI, I'M RICK STEVES, TAKING TIME OUT

FROM WRITING MY GUIDEBOOKS TO BE YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER.

THIS TIME, WE'RE BACK FOR MORE OF GERMANY,

AND WE'RE HERE WITH THE FAMILY.

THANKS FOR JOINING US.

AFTER VISITING GERMANY'S GREATEST GOTHIC CATHEDRAL,

WE'LL ENJOY THE GOOD LIFE, GERMAN STYLE,

AT A TOP MINERAL SPA,

TRY OUR LUCK AT THE VERSAILLES OF CASINOS,

CRANK OUT SOME OLD-TIME MUSIC, AND EXPLORE THE ROMANTIC

BLACK FOREST, WITH MY FAVORITE TRAVEL PARTNERS,

ANNE, ANDY, AND JACKIE.

IN THIS SERIES, EUROPE'S OUR PLAYGROUND,

AND GERMANY'S IN THE HEART OF ALL THE FUN.

AFTER A STOP AT HISTORIC COLOGNE, WE RIDE THE TRAIN

TO THE RESORT SPA OF BADEN-BADEN,

THEN HOP SOUTH THROUGH THE HIGHLIGHTS

OF THE BLACK FOREST.

WE ARE CROSSING THE RHINE AND COMING INTO COLOGNE.

THERE'S A LOT TO SEE IN COLOGNE,

BUT OUR FIRST MISSION, STOW THESE BAGS.

STATION LOCKERS WORK GREAT.

BEAUTIFUL.

FIRST, WE'VE GOT TO FIGURE OUT OUR TRAIN OUT OF HERE.

LATER WE'LL BE HEADING FOR BADEN-BADEN.

OUR TRAIN LEAVES AT 16:09.

THAT GIVES US JUST ENOUGH TIME FOR A QUICK LOOK

AT GERMANY'S FOURTH LARGEST CITY.

THE TRAIN DROPS YOU RIGHT

IN THE SHADOW OF COLOGNE'S GREAT CATHEDRAL,

IN A COMPACT AND PEOPLE-FRIENDLY CITY CENTER.

WE'LL SEE QUAINT SMALL-TOWN GERMANY LATER.

AND THAT'S FUN.

BUT MODERN GERMANY IS NOT SITTING ON A STUMP

WEARING LEDERHOSEN AND YODELING.

IT'S A NO-NONSENSE, LEAN AND MEAN BUSINESS MACHINE,

WITH 80 MILLION PEOPLE PACKED INTO A COUNTRY

THE SIZE OF MONTANA.

THIS ARCH WAS THE NORTH GATE OF THE ROMAN CITY.

IT REMINDS US THAT THIS STREET AND CITY HAVE BEEN THRIVING

FOR 2,000 YEARS.

MEDIEVAL COLOGNE WAS GERMANY'S BIGGEST CITY,

THE CROSS POINT OF TWO MAJOR TRADING ROUTES.

WHILE WORLD WAR II BOMBS DESTROYED 95 PERCENT

OF THE CITY CENTER,

THERE'S NOT A HINT OF THAT TODAY ON WHAT LOCALS CLAIM

IS GERMANY'S FIRST PEDESTRIAN SHOPPING MALL.

AFTER THE WAR, THE TRAFFIC-FREE OLD TOWN

WAS REBUILT WITH A PARK AND RIVERSIDE BIKE PATHS.

MANY RHINE CRUISES START FROM HERE.

THE RHINE WAS THE NORTHERN BOUNDARY OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE

IN THIS PART OF EUROPE.

THIS MUSEUM IS FILLED WITH ROMAN ARTIFACTS,

PERHAPS THE FINEST IN GERMANY.

BUT WHEN TRAVELLING WITH KIDS, WE'RE GOOD

FOR ONE MAJOR SITE A DAY.

AND TODAY, THAT'S COLOGNE CATHEDRAL.

THIS IS GERMANY'S MOST ART-PACKED GOTHIC CHURCH.

COLOGNE HAS LONG BEEN AN IMPORTANT RELIGIOUS CENTER,

MAYBE THE MOST IMPORTANT IN ALL OF GERMANY.

IN FACT, 1700 YEARS AGO, CONSTANTINE, THE FIRST

CHRISTIAN ROMAN EMPEROR, GAVE COLOGNE ITS OWN BISHOP.

THE CATHEDRAL FACADE, WHILE FINISHED ACCORDING

TO THE 13th CENTURY PLAN, IS "NEO-GOTHIC"

FROM THE 19th CENTURY.

SEE THE TIP OF THAT SPIRE 500 FEET HIGH?

HERE'S A LIFE-SIZE REPLICA.

THIS CHURCH MAKES YOU FEEL SMALL.

IT'S DESIGNED TO.

IT REMINDS US OF OUR PLACE IN THE VAST SCHEME OF THINGS.

STAINED GLASS, ENOUGH TO COVER TWO FOOTBALL FIELDS,

BATHES THE CHURCH WITH DIVINE LIGHT.

THE CHURCH WAS BEGUN ROUGHLY 700 YEARS AGO,

BUT IT WASN'T COMPLETED UNTIL 1880, JUST ABOUT

IN TIME TO CELEBRATE THE UNIFICATION OF SO MANY

SMALL GERMAN STATES INTO ONE MODERN GERMANY.

THIS MOSAIC SHOWS AN ARCHBISHOP HOLDING

THE EARLIER CATHEDRAL THAT STOOD HERE CENTURIES

BEFORE THIS ONE WAS BUILT.

RELIGIOUS RELICS WERE A BIG DEAL BACK THEN,

AND COLOGNE HAD SOME OF THE MOST IMPORTANT.

THIS SUMPTUOUS, 800-YEAR-OLD RELIQUARY HOLDS THE BONES

OF THE MAGI, 3 SKULLS WITH GOLDEN CROWNS.

THESE 3 KINGS, OF CHRISTMAS CAROL FAME, WERE, AFTER THEIR

TRIP TO BETHLEHEM, CONSIDERED THE FIRST CHRISTIAN PILGRIMS.

THEY'VE INSPIRED COUNTLESS PILGRIMS,

FROM MEDIEVAL TO MODERN TIMES, TO VISIT COLOGNE.

AND PILGRIMS BROUGHT IN LOTS OF MONEY.

THAT'S WHY COLOGNE DECIDED TO BUILD THIS MAGNIFICENT

AND MUCH BIGGER CHURCH.

ANOTHER PILGRIMMAGE STOP AND THE ART TREASURE

OF THE CATHEDRAL IS THE GERO CRUCIFIX, CARVED IN 976.

WITH A REALISM AND SENSITIVITY 300 YEARS AHEAD OF ITS TIME,

IT SHOWS WHAT THE CRUCIFIXION WAS ALL ABOUT.

THE HUMAN JESUS WAS DEAD.

IT'S GREAT ART AND POWERFUL THEOLOGY IN ONE.

ON THE WAY OUT, FIND THE STATUE OF ST. CHRISTOPHER,

THE PATRON SAINT OF TRAVELERS.

HE'S ALWAYS THE BIG GUY WITH THE PILGRIMS' STAFF

AND JESUS ON HIS SHOULDER.

FOR 500 YEARS HE'S LOOKED OUT

FOR PILGRIMS AND TRAVELERS ALIKE.

WE'VE GOT 10 MINUTES TO CATCH OUR 16:09 TRAIN.

PACKING LIGHT IS EVEN MORE IMPORTANT FOR TRAIN TRAVELERS

THAN FOR THOSE TRAVELING BY CAR.

FAMILIES NEED TO PACK LIGHT, TOO.

EACH KID CARRIES HIS OR HER OWN STUFF.

OUR LIMIT, ONE CARRY-ON-THE- PLANE-SIZE BAG PER PERSON.

WITH SPEEDY TRAINS AND FREQUENT DEPARTURES,

TOWN-HOPPING BY TRAIN IS A BREEZE.

WE'VE HAD A TASTE OF BIG CITY GERMANY.

NOW, IT'S TIME FOR ROMANTIC FORESTS, CUCKOO CLOCKS,

AND GERMANY'S TOP SPA TOWN.

BADEN-BADEN SPECIALIZES IN UTTER RESTFULNESS.

THIS IS WHERE GERMANY RECHARGES ITS BATTERIES.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION IN EUROPE MAKES TRAVEL

WITHOUT A CAR EASY.

IN BADEN-BADEN THE TOURIST NEEDS ONLY BUS NO. 201.

BUSES RUN EVERY 10 MINUTES.

BUY TICKETS FROM THE DRIVER.

VALIDATE BY STAMPING A TIME ON IT.

24-HOUR TICKETS CAN BE A GREAT DEAL.

AND REMEMBER...

KIDS GO CHEAPER.

NO. 201 RUNS FROM THE TRAIN STATION

STRAIGHT THROUGH THE TOWN CENTER.

LIKE MANY EUROPEAN OLD TOWN CENTERS,

BADEN-BADEN IS CLOSED TO PRIVATE VEHICLES

AND SERVICED BY A GREAT BUS SYSTEM.

19th CENTURY BADEN-BADEN WAS THE PLAYGROUND

OF EUROPE'S HIGH-ROLLING ELITE.

ROYALTY AND ARISTOCRACY WOULD COME FROM ALL CORNERS

TO SOAK IN THE CURATIVE MINERAL WATERS AND ENJOY

ONE OF THE WORLD'S TOP CASINOS.

TODAY, THIS TOWN OF 55,000

ATTRACTS A MORE MIDDLE-CLASS CROWD.

TOURISTS IN SEARCH OF A LOWER PULSE,

AND GERMANS ENJOYING THE FRUITS OF THEIR GENEROUS

HEALTH CARE SYSTEM.

HOTEL am MARKT IS MY VOTE FOR BADEN-BADEN'S BEST

SMALL AND FRIENDLY HOTEL.

HERR AND FRAU BOGNER OFFER EXPERT TRAVEL ADVICE,

COMFORTABLE ROOMS AND A GREAT PRICE.

IT'S INEXPENSIVE BECAUSE IT'S FAMILY-RUN

AND THERE'S NO NIGHT CLERK, TVs OR MINI-BARS.

ANDY AND JACKIE HAVE SETTLED RIGHT IN.

FOR ME, THE LOCATION IS WHAT MATTERS MOST.

WE'RE RIGHT IN THE COBBLED OLD CENTER, THE BATHS ARE JUST

A BLOCK AWAY, AND IT'S QUIET.

[ BELLS GONGING ]

THANKFULLY, THE BELLS STOP AT 10 P.M.

FOR ME, A HIGHLIGHT OF BADEN-BADEN

IS A VISIT TO THE BATHS.

THERE HAVE BEEN MINERAL BATHS HERE EVER SINCE ROMAN TIMES.

AS A MATTER OF FACT, IT'S BEEN SAID THAT EMPEROR CARACALLA

HIMSELF MAY HAVE SOAKED AWAY HIS RHEUMATISM RIGHT HERE.

TODAY THERE ARE TWO VERY DIFFERENT BATHS.

A BABY-SITTER WE ARRANGED THROUGH OUR HOTEL

IS TAKING OUR KIDS TO THE MODERN WATER PARK

CALLED THE CARACALLA BATHS.

THIS HUGE COMPLEX COMES WITH THE THERAPEUTIC WORKS.

BUT TO SOME CUSTOMERS, IT'S SIMPLY LOTS OF WET FUN.

MEANWHILE, ANNE AND I ARE GOING TO THE MORE ARISTOCRATIC

FRIEDRICHSBAD FOR A SOBER TWO-HOUR RITUAL CALLED

THE ROMAN-IRISH BATH.

FOR THE COST OF A GOOD DINNER, YOU GET THE WORKS.

MEN AND WOMEN ARE SEPARATED FOR MOST OF THE ROUTINE.

THE TICKET GETS YOU IN,

RELEASES YOUR LOCKER KEY,

AND GETS YOU OUT,

AS LONG AS YOU FINISH WITHIN THREE HOURS.

ATTENDANTS HELP YOU STAY ON COURSE.

HELLO, YOUR FIRST TIME?

YEAH.

YOU TAKE SHOES, YOU HAVE A SHOWER,

AND THEN YOU GO ON, OKAY.

DANKE.

FRIEDRICHSBAD IS POWERED BY A STEADY RIVER OF HOT

AND THERAPEUTIC MINERAL WATER.

AFTER A WELCOMING SHOWER, YOU SOAK AND SIT IN A SERIES

OF PEACEFUL POOLS AND EXQUISITELY TILED

SAUNA ROOMS.

THE ROUTINE SEEMS COMPLEX, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU'RE NAKED,

NEW HERE, AND DON'T SPEAK THE LANGUAGE.

THANKFULLY, MULTI-LINGUAL SIGNS, ARROWS AND NUMBERS

LEAD YOU FROM ROOM TO ROOM.

AHHH, STOP NO. 6 IS A HIGHLIGHT.

THE SOAP-BRUSH MASSAGE IS ROUGH, SLIPPERY,

OH, YEAH.

AND FINISHED WITH A GOOD TEUTONIC SPANK.

YOU'LL GLIDE LIKE A SWAN UNDER A DIVINE DOME

IN THE CENTRAL POOL.

THIS IS THE ONE MIXED AREA, SHARED BY MEN AND WOMEN.

THE DRESS CODE IS ALWAYS NUDE.

BEING YOUR AVERAGE AMERICAN,

THAT TOOK SOME GETTING USED TO.

BUT ONCE INSIDE, YOU FIND IT'S AN ELEGANT EXPERIENCE,

SEDATE AND SAFE.

A GREAT THING ABOUT TRAVEL IS CONTRAST.

AND AFTER ALL THIS HOT WATER, THERE'S NO BETTER CONTRAST

THAN THE COLD PLUNGE.

HELLO.

HELLO.

AFTER THE ICY PLUNGE, THE ATTENDANT DRIES

YOU IN WARM TOWELS.

OKAY, SO NOW WE GO TO SLIP IN HERE, OKAY.

FINALLY, WRAPPED IN A COCOON, YOU LAY CLEAN AND THINKING

PRENATAL THOUGHTS IN THE MELLOW-YELLOW

SILENT ROOM.

TRADITIONALLY, BATHERS CAP THE EXPERIENCE WITH A SIP

OF THE THERMAL WATER.

AFTER FREIDRICHSBAD YOU'LL FEEL, AS THEY SAY,

FIVE YEARS YOUNGER, OR, AT LEAST, NO OLDER.

AT THE BADEN-BADEN CASINO, THE GAMBLING STARTS

IN THE AFTERNOON AND GOES INTO THE WEE HOURS.

COAT AND TIE ARE REQUIRED, AND RENTABLE.

I GUESS THIS ONE'LL DO.

BUILT IN THE 1850S, THIS IS, ACCORDING TO MARLENE DIETRICH,

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CASINO IN THE WORLD.

INSPIRED BY THE PALACE OF VERSAILLES,

IT'S FILLED WITH ROOMS HONORING FRENCH ROYALTY,

WHO NEVER SET FOOT IN THE PLACE.

ANYONE OVER 21 IS WELCOME TO TRY THEIR LUCK.

BUT YOU DON'T NEED TO GAMBLE.

IN FACT, A THIRD OF THOSE WHO GO IN, JUST OBSERVE.

LINGER UNDER GOLD-FINGER CUPIDS, AND LISTEN

TO THE GRACEFUL RESHUFFLING OF PERSONAL FORTUNES.

THE NEXT MORNING WE TOOK THE 30-MINUTE TOUR THE CASINO

GIVES DAILY, THE ONLY TIME KIDS ARE ALLOWED INSIDE.

NOW A LITTLE BIT IN ENGLISH.

YOU ARE HERE NOW IN OUR MOST BEAUTIFUL GAMBLING HALL,

THE FLORENTINE HALL.

AND DOSTOYEVSKY, A RUSSIAN WRITER,

LIKED VERY MUCH GAMBLING HERE IN THIS ROOM HERE.

HE VISITED THIS ROOM VERY OFTEN AND DESCRIBED

IT IN HIS WORK, "THE GAMBLER".

THE CASINO MAY BE THE TOAST OF BADEN-BADEN,

BUT IT'S THE BREAD AND BUTTER, TOO.

YOU ARE HERE IN A PRIVATE CASINO,

AND THE PRIVATE OWNERS MUST, OF COURSE,

PAY FOR HAVING THE CONCESSION FOR GAMBLING.

THAT MEANS, SINCE LONG YEARS, THEY MUST GIVE 90 PERCENT, 9-0,

TO THE LAND OF BADEN-WERTENBAG FOR HAVING THE CONCESSION.

THE CASINO WINS 35 MILLION A YEAR, AND 90 PERCENT

OF THAT GOES BACK TO THE CITY AND STATE IN TAXES.

MORE ARISTOCRATIC OLD-WORLD ELEGANCE SURROUNDS THE CASINO,

OFFERING CHARMS EVEN THE NEWLY PENNILESS CAN ENJOY.

THE TRINKHALLE'S 300-FOOT LONG PORTICO IS DECORATED

WITH FRESCOS RECALLING ROMANTIC LOCAL LEGENDS.

BACK WHEN BADEN-BADEN WAS FAMOUS AS THE SUMMER

CAPITAL OF EUROPE,

THIS WAS THE PLACE TO SEE AND BE SEEN.

KAISER WILHELM I WAS A REGULAR HERE FOR 40 YEARS.

[ SYMPHONY MUSIC ]

HE MAY HAVE ENJOYED THE BADEN-BADEN PHILHARMONIC,

JUST AS VISITORS DO TODAY.

[ SYMPHONY MUSIC ]

[ APPLAUSE ]

BADEN-BADEN SEEMS MADE TO ORDER FOR STROLLING.

BESTOW A ROYAL TITLE ON YOURSELF, AND PROMENADE

DOWN THE FAMOUS LICHTENTALER ALLEE.

PRINCE ANDREW AND COUNTESS JACKIE DON'T QUITE GET IT.

THE LANE MEANDERS ALONG THE OOS RIVER,

PAST GRAND OLD SPA HOTELS BUILT IN ROYAL FASHION

DURING BADEN-BADEN'S 19TH CENTURY HEYDAY.

THIS ART NOUVEAU ROSE GARDEN, WITH DOZENS OF KINDS OF ROSES,

IS A FRAGRANT BONUS.

BADEN-BADEN IS A GATEWAY TO GERMANY'S BLACK FOREST,

A RANGE OF THICKLY WOODED HILLS STRETCHING A HUNDRED MILES

SOUTH ALONG THE FRENCH BORDER.

RURAL AREAS LIKE THIS ARE EASIER BY CAR,

SO WE'VE RENTED ONE FOR THIS PART OF OUR TRIP.

THE BLACK FOREST IS A HIT WITH GERMANY HOLIDAY-GOERS,

CITY FOLK WHOSE DOCTORS HAVE PRESCRIBED SOME SERIOUS R & R,

AND FAMILIES,

JUST OUT A-WANDERIN'.

AND, LIKE THE LOCALS, OUR FAMILY ENJOYS

THE FRESH AIR, GREAT VIEWS, AND WIDE OPEN SPACES

THAT COME WITH A GOOD BLACK FOREST WALK.

THICKLY WOODED AND FOR CENTURIES

ISOLATED AND MYSTERIOUS, PEOPLE CALLED THIS

THE BLACK FOREST, THAT'S THE "SCHWARZWALD".

NOW, RATHER THAN BLACK,

IT'S A BRIGHT AND SUNNY VACATIONLAND.

BUT EVEN TODAY, IN REMOTE VILLAGES AND FARMSTEADS,

LOCAL DIALECTS SURVIVE, AND TRADITIONS ARE STRONG.

[ STRINGED INSTRUMENT MUSIC ]

STAUFEN IS AN IDEAL SMALL-TOWN BASE FOR EXPLORING

THE SOUTHERN TRUNK OF THE BLACK FOREST.

ROLLING OR STROLLING THROUGH THE PEDESTRIAN-FRIENDLY

COBBLED LANES, OR DAYDREAMING UNDER GINGERBREAD BUILDINGS,

THE TOWN'S A DELIGHT.

STAUFEN IS A GOOD EXAMPLE OF WHY FOR MANY TRAVELERS

EUROPE'S CHARMS ARE BEST FOUND IN SMALL-TOWN PACKAGES.

PERCHED ABOVE THE TOWN IS A 15th CENTURY CASTLE.

RUINED BY THE SWEDES IN THE THIRTY YEARS' WAR,

TODAY IT SEEMS ONLY TO PROTECT THE VINEYARDS.

STAUFEN IS ON GERMANY'S WINE ROAD,

AND LOCALS HERE ARE PROUD OF THEIR HOMETOWN WINE.

THIS IS WINE FROM THE CASTLE.

OKAY, GOOD.

GESUNDHEIT.

GERMANY'S FORTE IS WHITE WINE.

IT COMES TROCKEN, HALB-TROCKEN, OR SUSS.

THAT'S DRY, HALF-DRY, OR SWEET.

CHEERS!

MMMM.

CUCKOO CLOCKS ARE ONE OF THE REGION'S TOURISTIC

CLAIMS TO FAME, AND AROUND HERE, TIME REALLY IS MONEY.

SHOPS ARE PERPETUALLY WOUND UP AND READY

TO GREET THE TOURISTS.

CUCKOO!

NOW, I SEE THIS LITTLE TINY WORD HERE.

DOES THAT SAY "SWITZERLAND"?

NO, THAT'S GERMANY.

THEY'RE ALL MADE IN THE BLACK FOREST.

COMPLETELY?

EVERY LITTLE PART IS FROM THE BLACK FOREST?

YES.

WHY ARE THERE THREE PINE CONES?

ONE IS FOR THE CUCKOO,

THE SECOND ONE IS FOR THE CLOCK MECHANIC,

AND THE THIRD ONE IS FOR THE MUSIC.

CAN WE TRY?

YES.

I WILL SHOW YOU.

CUCKOO, CUCKOO, CUCKOO, CUCKOO, CUCKOO, CUCKOO!

THE TOWN OF FURTWANGEN'S IMPRESSIVE GERMAN CLOCK MUSEUM

OFFERS MORE THAN A CHORUS OF CUCKOO CLOCKS.

IT TRACES THE DEVELOPMENT OF TIME-KEEPING DEVICES

FROM THE DARK AGE TO THE SPACE AGE.

BLACK FOREST CLOCKS DATE BACK TO THE 17th CENTURY.

SIMPLE AND MADE ALMOST ENTIRELY OF WOOD,

THEY WERE THE FIRST AFFORDABLE CLOCKS.

AND ACCURATE?

TO WITHIN 30 MINUTES A DAY.

FROM HERE, CLOCKS EVOLVED.

THE LOCAL KNACK FOR MECHANICAL CLEVERNESS FOUND FUN WAYS

TO ANNOUNCE THE HOUR, LIKE "THE DUMPLING EATER."

AT THREE O'CLOCK, HE EATS THREE DUMPLINGS,

OR AT LEAST ONE DUMPLING THREE TIMES.

OVER TIME, LOCALS MIXED AUTOMATION

INTO THEIR CLOCK MAKING.

WHEN THIS SUPERCLOCK FROM 1880 STRIKES NOON,

THE APOSTLES PASS BEFORE CHRIST,

EACH BOWING AS THEY'RE BLESSED.

FROM THESE SAME VILLAGES AND SAME TECHNIQUES

CAME FANCIFUL MUSIC BOXES.

THE CALLIOPE IS A CLASSIC.

[ MUSIC ]

THIS ONE'S CALLED "AN ORCHESTRA IN A CUPBOARD."

[ MUSIC ]

AND IT TAKES NO PRACTICE TO PLAY THE GRIND ORGAN.

[ MUSIC ]

[ SPEAKING GERMAN ]

[ DISCUSSION IN GERMAN ]

SMART PARENTS PUNCTUATE THEIR SIGHTSEEING WITH BREAKS.

AND WE'RE MUNCHING THE FAMOUS AND EXTREMELY DECADENT...

Danke Schoen!

...SCHWARZWALD KIRSCHTORTE.

THAT'S BLACK FOREST CHERRY CAKE.

BON APPETIT.

JACKIE, TELL ME, WHAT'S IN YOUR CAKE?

THERE'S CHOCOLATE, WHIPPED CREAM, ALMONDS,

AND, OF COURSE, CHERRIES.

AND A LITTLE BIT OF SCHNAPPS.

THE BLACK FOREST OPEN-AIR MUSEUM IS NEAR

THE VILLAGE OF GUTACH.

IT'S A CREATIVE, FOLK LIFE SHOW-AND-TELL,

HOUSED IN ORIGINAL BUILDINGS MOVED HERE

FROM ALL AROUND THE BLACK FOREST.

THE MUSEUM STAFF IS HAPPY TO EXPLAIN THE EXHIBITS.

AROUND THE TURN OF THE FIRST MILLENNIUM,

EUROPE HARNESSED THE POWER OF WIND AND WATER

WITH MILLS LIKE THIS.

THIS CORN HAS TO BE GRINDED FOUR TIMES

TO GET THE REAL FLOUR OUT.

INGRID, WHAT IS THIS MASK FOR?

THEY PUT THE MASK ON HERE BECAUSE

THEY ARE VERY SUPERSTITIOUS.

AND THEY HOPED BY DOING THAT,

THEY WOULD KEEP THE FUNGUS AWAY.

WITH NO SHORTAGE OF ANIMALS TO FEED

AND TRADITIONAL CRAFTS TO LEARN ABOUT,

OPEN-AIR FOLK MUSEUMS ARE GREAT FOR FAMILIES.

YOU KNOW, FARMING THE BLACK FOREST WAS REALLY DIFFICULT.

SO PEOPLE WERE LOOKING FOR ALTERNATIVES,

LIKE BASKET-WEAVING.

THEY MADE CUCKOO CLOCKS.

THEY HAD GLASS-BLOWING ALL OVER THE COUNTRY.

AND, OF COURSE, THEY HAD SAWMILLS

BECAUSE LUMBER WAS ABUNDANT.

AND ACTUALLY, THIS SAWMILL HERE WHICH WE ARE GOING TO

IS ONE OF THE LAST THREE STILL WORKING

IN THE BLACK FOREST.

WHETHER GRINDING FLOUR,

OR MAKING PLANKS FROM BLACK FOREST LOGS,

SMALL BUT POWERFUL INNOVATIONS LIKE THESE

KICKED OFF A CHAIN OF INDUSTRIALIZATION

WHICH HELPED TO SHAPE THE EUROPE TRAVELERS ENJOY TODAY.

FROM MODERN COLOGNE,

TO ELEGANT BADEN-BADEN,

TO OLD-TIME BLACK FOREST HIDE-AWAYS,

AND WITH THE KIDS, I HOPE YOU'VE ENJOYED OUR LOOK

AT THIS EXCITING SLICE OF GERMANY.

THANKS FOR JOINING US.

I'M RICK STEVES.

UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELLIN'.

TELL ME THE MAIN FOUR THINGS IN THAT BEAUTIFUL CAKE.

CHOCOLATE, WHIPPED CREAM--

[ LAUGHTER ]

[ MUSIC ]

OKAY, OKAY.

THERE'S CHOCOLATE, WHIPPED CREAM, ALMONDS,

AND, OF COURSE, CHERRIES.

AND YOU MISSED ONE LITTLE

IMPORTANT INGREDIENT: SCNAPPS.

OKAY, SLEEP WELL.

DANKE.